Jakee's 4.0 SOHC Build up discussion and motivation thread | Page 19 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Jakee's 4.0 SOHC Build up discussion and motivation thread

spindlecone said:
anything new on the buildup?

The Cat back just went on last Wensday. Probably a 73MM C&L next, then the pulleys and electric fan. (Pulleys and electric fan @ the same time)
 



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aldive said:
Jakee, maybe I missed it with this plethora of posts, but have you posted an outline of your project ( including the order of the mods )?

Thanks ....

I've posted what I'm doing and the order they'll be done. I'll admit, i've changed my mind on a lot of the mods, just by what I learn from day to day.
 






[QUOTE='97 V8]Jakee, its great that you have big goals for yoyr explorer. But like all goals you plan to achieve you need focus. Focus on one thing at a time. If you dont, your never going to get anything done. Put your money on your engine, then move onto appearances etc. Im really looking forward to your dyno numbers by the way.

Mahdey[/QUOTE]

The bumper removal was really not for appearance. It was for weight. Pretty heavy pc of metal that I don't use.
 






JDraper said:
Rocket, I do have an 02 bung welded into my exhaust pre-cat converter, and that's where the readings are taken. I don't trust sniffers and never have. Every vehicle that I do dyno work on, I put a bung into. I run it on a Land-Sea dyno (Most of the time. Occasionally on a Dynojet) using a heated O2 sensor. The C&L CAI does come with a larger MAF housing, but retains the stock MAF sensor.

I'm not a rookie at this either...been doing it for 25+ years....Most of my experience is in carbureted/non computer controlled vehicles, but the basic principles are the same.


Glad to hear your doing it right with the bung instead of the sniffer crap. ;)

The larger MAS housing and stock MAS element is EXACTLY why your running leaner and thus need a recalibration. That is what I thought; which is why I asked. The A/F has nothing to do with the CAI itself. If only doing a CAI while retaining all stock MAS components including housing and element the A/F will remain the same though the airflow will be slightly increased and more dense when running a CAI, but the additional air will be accounted for. The bigger MAS housing is the EXACT reason why your A/F went lean, not the CAI.

JDraper said:
Most of my experience is in carbureted/non computer controlled vehicles, but the basic principles are the same.

Since you assume you know so much then you would understand that when moving to a bigger MAS housing your essentially throwing the stock MAS elements calibration off by changing to a housing with more volume flow. Think of it like this. The MAS element strives to heat the filament wire to a constant temperature. The wind moving through the housing at whatever velocity will cool it so the MAS adds voltage to keep the wire at the same temp. The MAS then measures this voltage and when this voltage is applied to a fixed sized housing and also the IATS and you get how much airflow just went throught the MAS and the vehicle will use that to generate other figures for spark and A/F.

In simpler terms picture two tubes. One 1 foot in diameter and the other 100 feet in diameter. Both have air flowing through them at 60 miles per hour. Both have the same MAS meter installed in them. Both MAS meters see 60 mph of air speed (thus making them think they are metering the same amount or air) though the 100 foot tube obviously is moving much much more air and if channelled into an engine (hypothetical engine) would obviously cause it to run lean because not only is there more air going into the engine, but it is also UNACCOUNTED FOR. The fact that it is unaccounted for is a critical factor between why a vehicle goes lean and why it does not when taking things in the context you and I have discussed.

You can have more air going into an engine and still not run lean as long as it is being accounted for properly. When a vehicle is tuned right, even taking such steps as switching to a smaller blower pulley to make more boost will not give cause for a retune as long as that additional air is being accounted for through the MAS meter and the fuel system is up to par. However, when dealing with forced induction it is best to play it ultrasafe due to other potentially harmful variables. With N/A applications there is less chance of volatility like within a blown system.

You may have been doing this for "25+ years" but you may want to have a better understanding about your vehicles engine and electronic systems before assuming you know what you talk about. Jeff, I don't mean this to be directed at you in a harsh manner, but you are talking to someone who knows their stuff and who also truly does understand that their is HUGE differences between FI cars and Carbed cars. While principle is still the same the execution and everything in between is mostly different and thus cannot be approached with quite the same mindset as another. Good day.
 






A skilled "old school" drag racer know's when he's running lean by sniffing the exhaust fumes. ;)
 






spindlecone said:
The more the marrier,My goal was to get OEM V8, 2 valve power, done that.
And jakee, headers on your engine will get you 3 H.P.
And don't forget, you guys are starting out with 205 crank, I started with 210

I'm starting with 5 less plus way more miles than you. Still gonna make U eat you're words.

I think Auo1st has 210 stock. The jump was in 2001 (Somewhere in that year, you told me)
 






I ran a 7.5 0-60 this morning. Didn't spend any money, just adjusted a few things. Getting better but still slow.
 






Jakee said:
I'm starting with 5 less plus way more miles than you. Still gonna make U eat you're words.

I think Auo1st has 210 stock. The jump was in 2001 (Somewhere in that year, you told me)
Will eat whatever words you want Jakee, just prove it.
 






Jakee said:
A skilled "old school" drag racer know's when he's running lean by sniffing the exhaust fumes. ;)


Actually you know when your running rich by smelling the fumes and also by the color and density of them... ;) Also, if your eyes are burning when near the rear of the car that is another dead giveaway that a vehicle is running rich.
 






spindlecone said:
Will eat whatever words you want Jakee, just prove it.

I will, just be patient. Honestly, when I top the 210 on the dyno, I'm not going to rub it in at all. I'm not that way. However, I really love it when people doubt me.
 






Dyno scheduled for next Tuesday. (OCT 3)
 






Jakee said:
Dyno scheduled for next Tuesday. (OCT 3)

Great.

How many pulls are you doing? Are you only doing a baseline or testing other parameters?

Looking forward to seeing the data.
 






For now only 3. However, I'm questioning if I should just get a tune while there. I'll have someone else do the final tune when I get all the mods completed.

I sort of wish you guys would be patient so I could get the MAF meter and one other thing before the tune. The pulleys and electric fan could be last and I wouldn't need to tune them. Anyways, I'm scheduled to do the 3 pulls to see where I'm at and to make sure everything else is okay. If my wife lets me I'll get a tune as well. But, like I said, I have more to do. This by no means will be my final numbers.
 






If I were to "baseline" it, that would be exactly what I would do..I wouldn't tune or anything just make some baseline pulls stock (with exhaust now that you have it on) even with the stock intake,etc......So you know where you are at and how far you have been.I wouldn't let anyone rush me! One mod at a time. I would only tune once I had to. You will be surprised how far you can go on a stock tune N/A! If you go with the C&L as long as it is a 73MM you should be super close on the a/f! Just my .02.
 






jah81592 said:
If I were to "baseline" it, that would be exactly what I would do..I wouldn't tune or anything just make some baseline pulls stock (with exhaust now that you have it on) even with the stock intake,etc......So you know where you are at and how far you have been.I wouldn't let anyone rush me! One mod at a time. I would only tune once I had to. You will be surprised how far you can go on a stock tune N/A! If you go with the C&L as long as it is a 73MM you should be super close on the a/f! Just my .02.

I'll be contacting you soon.
 






Jakee, none of which you are doing requires a dyno tune.
You do however need an SCT flasher, the program will set your A/F at about 12.7.
Which is right about where you want to be with any boltons.
What you are doing has been done before, by alot of people.
 












Okay - What I'll do is put all the old crap back (stock airbox and filter, stock intake tube, stock exhaust) and take it to the dyno. Get the numbers and post them here. Then put all the new stuff back on and finish modding. Then drive up and get a tune. Then another dyno. If I don't reach the goal, I'll have more work.

When I reach the goal, get ready for a forced feed induction.

In the mean time I need ideas on how to get the tires from spinning. I need either a posi rear end or maybe plan to buy the guts for mine. Anyone have any suggestions? My current rear end is "open". I've barely even started and can't get the darn thing off the line without breaking the tires every other time. I want to be able to launch off the line.

Spindle - That has been my point for awhile now. People would like to see where I started from so I'm trying to be nice and give it to them. I honestly don't care, I know I've gained. And because so many others have already done it, I feel it's a waste. The final dyno will be the only one worth it to me.
 






Would you guys be pissed if I did a "Where are you at" dyno? Sure would help me not to have to take everything back off to see where I started from.

Stock should be around 160 to the wheels. I bet I started out lower than that (155) BUT I'll say 160 for a baseline. I feel this should be good enough, what do you think?

Another thing is; the goal is to get more than 210 RWHP N/A no matter where I started from.

Again, dyno next Tuesday. Would rather do a dyno with what I have now. I'll post the dyno and the mods will be;

Custom MAC intake
4.6 TB
Volant 7" filter (if that makes a difference)
Gibson CAT back
JBA Wires
Boush Platinum II plugs
Possible a 73MM C&L
Synthetic in Rear end and engine only. I still need to do the trans.

Dyno results here....

The rest..

Synthetic in trans
Headers
Electric fan
Crank Pulley (Probably won't do the ALT or water pump pulleys. Only reason to would be to bring the component back up to stock RPM'S)
Accel Coil
Front part of exhaust.
SCT tuner and custom tune by someone.

Dyno again. If goal is not met then, darn, I have more work. Failure is not an option.


Truck mods...I will concentrate on getting the x off the line and more weight reduction. Hopefully get in to the 14's N/A. Don't know if that's going to happen but I should be really really close.

Once that's all set-up then I'll start looking more into the forced induction. I probably will get a fresh motor to start with, build on the side so I won't be down. Get all my ducks in a row then drop the motor in. Then figure out how to get to my tuner and go from there.

And yes, I've got help. Not everything that I've done came from in my own mind. Take that how you want to.

To sum it up, I plan to get higher than posted before dyno results (4.0 SOHC N/A) simply by going the full mile and then some.

The 1/4 mile times, I plan on getting the lowest by concentrating on off the line launches and weight reduction. No slicks on my street vehicle to do this.

Feel free to challenge me with your 4.0 SOHC n/A explorers. FRIENDLY competition only!!!! Talk crap if you want but to get mad at me if I talk it back.
 



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update...
73MM C&L MAF on the way.

Dyno is cancled....My wife doesn't like the idea and she wears the pants so...what can I say...My mouth wrote a check that my butt can't cash.

This thread will have a dyno sheet for proof one day. But, I have to chill for awhile.

Sorry.
 






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