Joining the bandwagon, my 4L OHV build

[Xeek]

my guage works, although i dont remember what letters it should be at anymore lol
all my switches i have laying around are lighted and id put it somewhere so id see it

thanks for the tips on howto not start the engine to test. damn inertia switch again lol
hey jd come bang my y-pipe around with your sawzall again to set the inertia off so i can test wires lolol

while im at it, theres a wire for the ac to turn the fan on all the time... add a switch and ground the other end? and when i get ac again, splice another wire into it before the switch and run it to the 12v ac wire? so ac or the switch would turn the fan on?

 

[Maniak]

That would work, but you would need a diode in that, otherwise when you flipped the switch you would turn on the a/c compressor...

That is how I manually turn on the Fan in the van. I don't have a/c, so I hooked switched 12v to that wire, and I send power to it when I want to manually turn it on..

~Mark

 

[Xeek]

true, forgot about that. i guess ill do those two switched for now, and when i get ready to add ac back ill pm you or post in electrical section about the diode and all that

 

[Ronin8002]

For the A/C input wire, just splice into the positive wire that goes to the A/C compressor. No ground needed since it feeds back into the box. Same thing with the water temp sensor.

 

[Maniak]

For the A/C input wire, just splice into the positive wire that goes to the A/C compressor. No ground needed since it feeds back into the box. Same thing with the water temp sensor.

unless he wants to double that wire as fan on with a/c AND fan on manually. If he pushes 12v onto the wire via a switch it will not only turn on the fan but it will be putting 12v to the coil of the a/c clutch. Thats why I mentioned a diode when he's running double duty on that single wire

~Mark

 

[Xeek]

or have a 3rd 2 wire switch wired between the split and ac and cut it off before turning the fan on lol

id have a truck full of switches before i know it by doing that lol

 

[Ronin8002]

unless he wants to double that wire as fan on with a/c AND fan on manually. If he pushes 12v onto the wire via a switch it will not only turn on the fan but it will be putting 12v to the coil of the a/c clutch. Thats why I mentioned a diode when he's running double duty on that single wire

~Mark

whoops, I totally missed his point somehow Reading the post more carefully might help lol

 

[Xeek]

reading helps lol :

i wanna go home and start the truck and finish so bad! stuck here for another hour and a half

 

[jd4242]

You all are making this way to complicated.you have two wires,one goes to the ignition right under the dash,witch you can put a switch in it for a manual turn off the other goes to the wire on the ac compressor.

 

[Xeek]

lol, FOR NOW... ignition goes to switch on 12v, and ac goes to switch with 12v. flip switch when i start the truck to turn on the controller but not spin the fan until at temp. 2ns switch plain turns it on.

when i finalized all my other wiring and get ac ill switch it to how you said, except keep a rocker with diode on ac

 

[Xeek]

hey jd, i figured out why you werent getting much from testing the new tps.

http://explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=263699

 

[Xeek]

HELP!!
it did the crank with the binding thing again twice, i went to take video and that time is just kept cranking. unplugged battery, plugged back in and it started but ran reallyyyyyy rough, like it was dieing. 3 times. unplugged battery again, replugged, just cranked, tried again and it started but idled bad again.

my lower radiator hose was leaking slightly, so i tightened it and it stopped. and before i started all this i drained a tiny bit of overfilled oil

 

[Brandon96]

Uh what..?

First thing I'd suspect is fuel delivery.. make sure no fuel is leaking out the injectors/fuel rail, then check for vacuum leaks at the FPR.

 

[Maniak]

When you say crank with binding, you mean its acting like its hydrolocked?

If so, I'm betting on your dumping fuel into the cylinders and it is hydro locking. DannyBoy had that issue on his truck. With the key on, the enjectors were dumping fuel into some of the cylinders.

To test it, we pulled the plugs to see which ones were wet. We also pulled all the plugs, turned the key to the on position, then let it set a minute. Then cranked it over.. Fuel shot out of the plug holes.. (disconnect your coil pack so you don't have spark with flying fuel).

~Mark

edit: Brandon beat me to it..

 

[Xeek]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HACX9V9z94A
inertia switch is good, fuel pump is turning on, i smell gas when cranking. ill check for fuel leaking at fpr

idk what hydrolocked sounds like and i didnt get to record it, but jd did mention it sounded like that.
last time he took the plugs out the drivers side and had me crank, which it actually started without them, i shut it off right away tho




im kinda thinking i had less gas then i thought also? maybe im empty?

 

[Xeek]

i see no fuel anywhere. (fuel rail/fpr)

but it only did the binding twice, first 2 tries, all the other times its either cranked or started but sounded like it was dieing. now its just cranking


could i be making it worse due to i turn the key to on, leave it for 5secs and then try to start? i do that every time...

 

[fishy2k8]

Spark plugs hooked up correctly? I know it sounds silly but double and triple check

 

[Xeek]

yea theyre fine.

left side look ok, smell like oil

 

[Xeek]

id hate to say it..... but hydrolocked, cranking, running rough..............






blown head gasket? ..............
my coolant does need to be refilled a lot... my oil was thin and light brown when i drained excess from the pan today

 

[Xeek]

something else i just noticed, the check oil light comes on when cranking, not sure it that normally comes on or not