Jon And Sheri's Vitamin D Wagon | Page 24 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Jon And Sheri's Vitamin D Wagon

tdavis is right. Stainless isn't the best material for threading. When you get the threads machined in, ask if they can make it a close fit tapped hole.
 



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Uhm, be careful, some types of stainless steel is known to be weaker than regular steel...

I was told it was very strong. He used the other part of the tube for his race car control arm links I guess.
 












Oh, and don't forget to use lube.. ehhm, anti-sieze on the stainless.
 












Per our Chat convo last night - I have one section of 1.5" OD, 1.0" ID, 0.25" wall DOM tube that is 48" long with 7/8" -18 tpi tube adapters on each end. These tube adapters wont fit the heims you are interested in because the teeth count isn't correct - so I'll cut them off before shipping (which will make the tube about 47" long). If 47" fits the bill and you're interested, PM ye street addressy.
 






Per our Chat convo last night - I have one section of 1.5" OD, 1.0" ID, 0.25" wall DOM tube that is 48" long with 7/8" -18 tpi tube adapters on each end. These tube adapters wont fit the heims you are interested in because the teeth count isn't correct - so I'll cut them off before shipping (which will make the tube about 47" long). If 47" fits the bill and you're interested, PM ye street addressy.

Iz you are awesome
PM sent of course:D
 






OK
so a bent trac ( panhard) bar is to get around the pumpkin and engine crossmember-correct?

However, the mounting points still need to run parallel to the drag link yes?

I have seen bars bent to look parallel with the drag link, but the mount points are not. It seems the angle would still be off crating bump steer. Am I wrong?
 






OK
so a bent trac ( panhard) bar is to get around the pumpkin and engine crossmember-correct?
Yep

However, the mounting points still need to run parallel to the drag link yes?
Yep

I have seen bars bent to look parallel with the drag link, but the mount points are not. It seems the angle would still be off crating bump steer. Am I wrong?
Thats correct too!

3/3 - 100%, you get an A+ :).

Of course when you put a bend on the panhard, you have a tradeoff because you are slightly making it weaker than just a straight section of tube. So ideally, you want to minimize the angles of the bend.
 






The best way to do it is also the easiest, well depending on application. Basically run a tower off the axle housing to raise the track bar mount up. This way a straight bar will still clear the chunk.

Reference IZ's build thread for an exaggerated example. :D
 






The best way to do it is also the easiest, well depending on application. Basically run a tower off the axle housing to raise the track bar mount up. This way a straight bar will still clear the chunk.

Reference IZ's build thread for an exaggerated example. :D

I was looking at buying this

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/offest-panhard-bracket-p-240.html

IMG_0920.jpg
 






The best way to do it is also the easiest, well depending on application. Basically run a tower off the axle housing to raise the track bar mount up. This way a straight bar will still clear the chunk.

Reference IZ's build thread for an exaggerated example. :D

That's what I'd do also, logical.
 












That should work swimmingly. I would look at bracing it off the side- those mounts take about 99% side load and almost none front to rear. Run a triangle shaped gusset from the tower down to the housing tube.

Im having a hard time explaining this, does it make sense?

Yes I understand. I notice a side load brace bracket in Spaksaflyins upper mount also.

Something to brace it side to side--I get it. Thanks!!
 












Ok, I have been thinking. All this work and still have severe angles.

How much hassle is the High Steer conversion really?

To me the flatter I can get it the better.
also, how in the heck can I get a panhard bar anywhere near the same length as the drag link? I don't get it. Every way I try ( with string) I get a 9" difference in length
 






How much hassle is the High Steer conversion really?
1) High-steer knuckles
2) High-steer arms

#1 is the most difficult part because it has to match your spindle bolt pattern (unless you want to replace spindles too). And I believe Ford typically has a non-symmetrical spindle bolt pattern (one bolt is offset to make room for the brake caliper), where as the Jeeps and CHevys are symmetrical. Off the bat, most OE high-steer knuckles only have the driver's side drilled and tapped - so you'll have to send the other one to a machine shop for this (typically costs $60-$100 for the labor).

knuckle_arms.jpg


also, how in the heck can I get a panhard bar anywhere near the same length as the drag link? I don't get it. Every way I try I get a 9" difference in length
Its a fun game of trade-offs. The drag link will typically never be the same length as the panhard because the drag link goes all the way out to the knuckle while the panhard stops somewhere around the "C" (or even before). So you just get it as close as you can and call it good.
 






Ok, since I am also wanting to extend the radius arms anyway, now I see how a triangulated 4 link makes sense. I want as little bump steer as possible, and I will need to figure out a transmission cross member-Radius arm bracket either way.






I pretty sure these are chevy knuckles, I know the calipers are chevy
 









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RuffStuff does that every now and then too - it kind of freaks me out actually since when they ask for my name over the phone, the first thing I do is scramble and try to figure out if what I did wrong this time. But I guess its a nice way to gain some customer relationship points.
Posted via Mobile Device
 






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