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Jon And Sheri's Vitamin D Wagon




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Jon,

Cant remember if I posted or not, but the radius arm issue is the one I warned you about pre buying of the truck. I gave you the name of the company and the part that would fix you up.
Your best bet is to try and get the radius arm mounts for the extended radius arms on a TTB setup. Froaders truck had this same thing done.
 






Jon,

Cant remember if I posted or not, but the radius arm issue is the one I warned you about pre buying of the truck. I gave you the name of the company and the part that would fix you up.
Your best bet is to try and get the radius arm mounts for the extended radius arms on a TTB setup. Froaders truck had this same thing done.

Thanks Brian.
I think I have them settled down for now, however extending them is in the plans. I intend to use these when I do this

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/30quot-FORGED-Ultra-Duty-BALLISTIC-joint_p_1626.html

thumbnail.asp
 






I had intended to powder coat the bumper before installing it, however it was just in the way. I couldn't think of a better way to store it than this.

1-12-2010002-2.jpg




1-12-2010004.jpg


You'll notice the lower grille valance hanging on the fence.

I need to adjust the bumper a bit but it looks good on there. Better than tripping over it
 












Um,,,aren't 'bow pulpits' supposed to be stainless steel? At least all the ones on the sailboats I have owned have been. :D

And where are the life lines runnning down the side?
 






I had intended to powder coat the bumper before installing it, however it was just in the way. I couldn't think of a better way to store it than this.

1-12-2010002-2.jpg




1-12-2010004.jpg


You'll notice the lower grille valance hanging on the fence.

I need to adjust the bumper a bit but it looks good on there. Better than tripping over it

That's what ya call a DEER CHUCKER!!
 






OK well steering is confusing. I really wish there was a way to stabilize these tie rod ends, as in the front to rear rotation. I would just move the passenger side of the panhard bar upward and drive it like that.

But if I must convert it to a crossover steer,

I think I want to have the drag link as the weak link. I am finding it difficult to fit 7/8" into small tube--Ballistic has the smallest weld in tube adapter which will go into a 1" ID tube

so-1 1/4 " .125 wall DOM for the drag link, 1 1/2 " .250 wall for the tie rod, with 7/8 " joints.
The drag link will be high misalignment heim reduced by the bushings to 3/4" bolt, while the tie rod ends will be 7/8" with 3/4" bore, using a standard shim and safety washer.

Sound ok?
 






I think I want to have the drag link as the weak link. I am finding it difficult to fit 7/8" into small tube--Ballistic has the smallest weld in tube adapter which will go into a 1" ID tube

so-1 1/4 " .125 wall DOM for the drag link, 1 1/2 " .250 wall for the tie rod, with 7/8 " joints.
The drag link will be high misalignment heim reduced by the bushings to 3/4" bolt, while the tie rod ends will be 7/8" with 3/4" bore, using a standard shim and safety washer.
Why can't you run the 1.5" tube for the drag link too?

Cauz I forget his name but we once had a nicely built red Ranger with us at Rausch Creek and he easily bent the 1/8" wall steering tube he was running - which was unfortunate because that ended his day short.
 






I've never seen a 1" tube adapter for a 7/8" heim.

I ended up picking up some 1.375x.375 DOM and getting them drilled and tapped for the heims to thread in with no adapter.
 






I've never seen a 1" tube adapter for a 7/8" heim.
Its pretty popular - it is the same size as what most "1-ton" TRE use, the "0.875 - 18TPI" thread, just different "TPI" (which is I think 14 for heims). And most of these TRE rod end adapters are for 1.0" ID tube.
 






I'm using 7/8" heims and the smallest tube adapter I could find was 1.25". With a 1" adapter, the leaves you with 1/16" wall on the adapter for the threads.
 






Why can't you run the 1.5" tube for the drag link too?

Cauz I forget his name but we once had a nicely built red Ranger with us at Rausch Creek and he easily bent the 1/8" wall steering tube he was running - which was unfortunate because that ended his day short.

I measured Sparksaflyin's steering-the drag link is 1 1/4" , while the tie rod is 1 1/2, and I was going off that as reference. It almost appears there is a 3/4" thread on the drag joint, with a 3/4" bolt going thru the mis alignment--I don't get that part.( I might be wrong though as I cannot see the stud)
I can't find a misalignment bushing which does not reduce the bore size, yet all the bolts in Marks steering are 3/4"
 






With a 1" adapter, the leaves you with 1/16" wall on the adapter for the threads.
Yep - but there is still the "head" of the tube adapter which does not slide into the tube.
thumbnail.asp


I measured Sparksaflyin's steering-the drag link is 1 1/4" , while the tie rod is 1 1/2, and I was going off that as reference.
Oh ok, well then you should be good. You can always sleeve it with another tube at a later date.
 






Is it a high misalignmet bushing or spacer?
Posted via Mobile Device
 






http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/78-14-tpi-Tube-Adapter_p_1403.html

There wouldn't be much meat to the threaded part, however it would still be wrapped by 1/8" of tube.

I think I will look around at the option of having the tubing threaded also-as I can have the holes threaded by a machine shop for a little less than the cost of each adapter
 






Not a good idea to run 1/8" on steering. There is no need for a weak link. Go at least 1/4" wall on all of it.
 






dang I thought I had alot of Fords out front!
 






Well, we went to the pick and pull today. He is laso a metal dealer.

Laying right inside the truck we were pulling things from was a 1354 electric shift case complete with motor. Already pulled and scored it for 40 bux

I also scored a 6 foot chunk of 1 1/4" .250 wall STAINLESS STEEL!! for my tie rod. It is the perfect hole for threading the 7/8" heim into. I got the tube for 25.00. Tiny bit of bling.

Hey it won't rust--:D
 



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Well, we went to the pick and pull today. He is laso a metal dealer.

Laying right inside the truck we were pulling things from was a 1354 electric shift case complete with motor. Already pulled and scored it for 40 bux

I also scored a 6 foot chunk of 1 1/4" .250 wall STAINLESS STEEL!! for my tie rod. It is the perfect hole for threading the 7/8" heim into. I got the tube for 25.00. Tiny bit of bling.

Hey it won't rust--:D

Uhm, be careful, some types of stainless steel is known to be weaker than regular steel...
 






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