Completed Project Kirby's 1991 Ranger Build Up

I haven't posted much here since I sold my 1993 Mazda Navajo around 2010 or 2011. It was 10 years in the making and finally to a solid, reliable state. I had some other priorities and decided to sell it and get something more versatile. I will include some pictures below of its developing states and final state when I sold it below. In the end, it had 37" MTRs, Arb front, detroit rear, 4.56 gears, D and D doubler and I built all the armor and the Dana 44 front Solid Axle Swap.

James duff 3.5" VR coil lift, 235" defender tires and a home made heavy ugly bumper (around 2000 when I bought it) :

2001 with 33x10.50s and James duff 4.5" lift with extended radius arms, manual hubs and new auto tranny:

Here it is just after the SAS with 34s and a swapped in manual tcase and tranny:

Winching out of Mikeys hot tub circa 2002 or so

Stuck on a tree just after 37s

37s, winch bumper rebuild etc

Final State Explorerforum moab trip 2010

Last Poser Shots

I hear it still gets around Colorado and Utah and I have had buddies call me with airings from time to time.

I have had a few rangers and one explorer since I sold my explorer.
Here are some pics of those:

Beat up 1994 Ranger 2.4l ($250)

Traded 1993 Ranger 4.0l and an abused auto tranny

1991 Manual Tcase and Tranny Explorer Sport

We have also had a ton of cool Jeeps. Here are a couple of pics, along with our current Jeep which we are hanging on to:

2005 unlimited Rubicon Sahara 5.7 L Hemi

2005 unlimited Rubicon 35s and 4" lift

Our Current 2005 Unlimited Rubicon 4" Lift 315 Kevlars

It does great grocery getter, family truckster, and occasional wekend wheeler, but I need a truck and I miss my exploder, so I decided to build a Ranger. However, I want to build it a little different this time.

I have always wanted to build a 1989-1992 ranger, so I spent a considerable amount of time looking for a low mile one with the right engine, tranny and tcase in good shape. 4.0l, m5od and 1354M stock. My explorer ended up with this combo, but started out as an auto tranny and tcase. This made for a ton of modifications and headaches with my explorer. Rangers can be had in many other undesirable configurations because they were available with 3 different v6s in 1989-92 and a 4cylinder. It proved to be a difficult task. Finally in the fall of 2012 I picked this one up. A 1991 4.0l manual tranny and transfer case 4x4 extended cab "mountain States Edition. It had 130k on it and ran great. The paint was toast, it had a rusty bed and (my biggest complaint) it had no factory air.

I drove it for a year until I was ready to have it painted. I fixed a bunch on it- thermostat, muffler, wheel bearings, brakes, had a new headliner installed, etc. When I got a quote for the paint (one solid color and fix the dings) it was 2k. So then I started thinking I better look for a different ranger to build! I settled on this one. It too is a 1991, it has air (huge plus after not having it in my other truck all summer), manual case and tranny and everything else and a 4.0. The body is really straight no rust and the interior is super nice. The odo read 83k and I believed it.

Since then I tracked down the original and only owner to find it has 183 k on it and they were all hwy miles. The only complaints I have is I wish it had the other mirrors and pop out extended cab windows. I can deal with those, though. This truck has been taken care of.

First order of business was a tune up, brakes and leaky valve cover gaskets.

The build plan is pretty simple: build it similar to how my explorer ended up, with out all the half builds in between. It took me a lot of work and money to get my explorer to preform well off-road and on the street and be reliable. On this one I want to skip all the poor performing, cheapskate half steps I took with the explorer.

My goal is to end up with a reliable, daily drive able, off-road capable ranger that will make a great driver, great work truck and great expo vehicle. I like the idea of a truck over a explorer sport because I need to haul dirt bikes and Sheetrock and plywood and all kinds of stuff all the time so I always needed a pickup when I had the explorer even though I wanted to drive the explorer all the time. Hopefully this will do both functions well.

So far, I have installed:

A blue tooth pioneer stereo (replacing the stock tape deck)

A optima yellow top

A Black grill and headlight bezels along with new headlights:

The only body work it needs is the topper it had on it was put on with a loose and poorly placed clamp that rubbed a hole in the bed cap. I will weld it up and hopefully add a LineX bedliner over the top

I purchased a Dana 44 out of a 76 f150 with no guts or outers for a $50 bill. I still have my spare warn premium hubs off my ex, and I plan to build this one stout before I put it in and leave it full width but move the c bushings in about 2" per side. I will likely then run stock style f150 wheels with stock backspacing and 35s or 37s as skinny as I can find. It will get a full rebuild and at least 4.88s, maybe 5.13s. I am not decided on radius arms yet. I suppose extended ones are on the bill instead of the stock wristed ones I had before, but I haven't sorted that out yet. The wrist traveled fine but it clunked and made a racket and it was also a pain to get out and pull the pin when it was time to wheel. Extended arms won't perform quite as well on the street as the stock length ones did with the pin in, but longer arms should stream line things.

For the rear I will rebuild a full width late model 31 spline 8.8 put of a bronco or f150 and install explorer disk brakes. I will likely need to have the axle flanges turned down and drill the rotors for the new bolt pattern.

I will extend the wheel base around 3" by moving the front axle forward and leave the rear axle centered in the wheel well. I plan to leave the bed size stock as I need the truck to haul stuff all the time. I will build bumpers and sliders before I beat it up this time.

Stay Tuned, I am picking up the front axle tomorrow.

 

[Kirby N.]

Thanks dude. Yeah, they are spoiled and they have no idea.

I have had some time at home this week... So I started on a new rear axle housing. The one in there is bent. Might be from healing a trailer with a tractor on it that was really heavy or from putting 2400 lbs of rocks in the bed. IDK.

But I want to install the ARB and I want it to never bend again.

I found a 5 on 5.5 Dynatrac High Pinion semi float Dana 60 with a ARB on craigslist for a reasonable price and considered going with that. But it wasn't wide enough, and it wouldn't have the VSS so the rear anti lock would still work. It was also running chevy half ton disks. I decided to pass. I like working with 8.8s, they are Ford, and everything that I need works here. This one should be plenty bullet proof.

Started off with a fresh housing from a 1994 f150. Then hacked off all the brackets with the torch

Then ground the leftovers off. I hate this part.

Enter Artec Modular truss for an 8.8.

I have been welding it an inch at a time and letting it cool. My brother built a Dana 35 truss back in the day and had me weld it on for a Jeep XJ axle. I welded it quick and it made the housing bend like a taco. He never had any more problems with the housing on that 35. Was a pain to keep seals from leaking though. I don't want that on this housing.

 

[Kirby N.]

I am considering getting some chromoly shafts for this one that are 1/4" to 3/8" wider. That would make it indestructible and would also make the disk conversion work better. I think I will just reuse the 5.13's that I already have in there and the pinion bearings. They are pretty low mile. I need a new crush sleeve and new carrier bearings (I thought ARB came with them but this one doesn't) and also new ring gear bolts. Might just buy a whole new setup kit.

 

[410Fortune]

wicked cool! Full width 8.8! Do you still need to weld the tubes to the diff?
Do the explorer discs bolt up to the full size 8.8?

 

[Stic-o]

wicked cool! Full width 8.8! Do you still need to weld the tubes to the diff?
Do the explorer discs bolt up to the full size 8.8?

With slight modification. JP has been running this for 10+ years. I never welded my tubes. Had Currie make me 5x5.5 rotors. I have build threads on this somewhere on here.

 

[Kirby N.]

This axle is just replacing the housing of what I already have in it. I already dealt with the disk conversion. I have the disk conversion write up in this thread on page 3. No- the explorer disks do not swap on to the full-size axle easily. You can see everything I fought with to make these disks fit on page 3. The biggest obstacle is the space between backing plates and WMS isn't enough. It is less than the explorer. You can over come that in a variety of ways- washers between the shafts and the disk (I dont like that) machining down the interfering pieces on the disks, backing plates, emergency brakes, and the axle shafts. If that piece is eliminated by a longer axle shaft, then you only have to deal with the outter diameter of the axle flange and the bolt pattern. I think I could get a custom shaft made that is longer but also has a smaller outer flange. I haven't priced it though.

Yes, I welded the center section to the housing. It is cheap insurance. There is no reason not to do that. I had one axle spin the tubes once. It was a pain and basically made the housing trash. Rick had that happen once and it was repaired. I will always weld the housing to the center section and I suggest you do the same. Pre heat/post heat of the cast sections can ensure that the weld holds well. I also weld it in two passes and that helps.

 

[Kirby N.]

Finally got it all welded up tonight. Again, I went nice and slow and gave a lot of time to cool so that it wouldn't warp the housing. I forgot to share why I went with the Artec truss- I liked that it bolts to the pinion. I drilled these holes out to 1/2" grade 8 mostly because I have used that 1/2" size on a ton of stuff on the ranger. Never know when I will need a spare.

Next I need to weld on the spring pads and set the pinion angle. Then the shock tabs. I have been considering trying to use a set of @RockRanger 's 2" drop front leaf spring mounts to get another 1" of lift on the rear and swapping out the front coils for another taller set from BC broncos. IDK though. It will almost fit in the garage with the flip pac on (might with the weight of it). I just think 1 more inch would help some of the clearance issues I have with the tires on the fiberglass and the trackbar mount on the frame. I built this thing as low and wide as possible for 35" tires though- so it is kind of going against the philosophy of this truck to add another inch. I worked hard to make everything work together at this ride height. I still need to think on it.

 

[Kirby N.]

I ordered some bearings. I was trying to just get wheel bearings and seals and carrier bearings for the ARB and a crush sleeve and ring gear bolts. But after I put all those together and looked for Timken bearings- it made sense to just buy a kit. $99 from Jeffs bronco graveyard and everything I need. a little more than what I need really. Ford 8.8" Rear Axle Bearing & Seal Kit-Broncograveyard.com

I also decided I am going to pull the trigger on a set of custom axles that are a little wider, have a smaller hub pilot and a smaller axle flange diameter. I went to the junkyard and measured on a disk explorer 8.8. I need to compare to my rear end- then I will make an order.

I think I am going with Moser. I used dutchman with my explorer front axle with good success (they narrowed and resplined the log end shaft that I narrowed. However, from what I can tell dutchman's custom shafts are stock alloy. The moser ones look to be chromoly. Ill keep this updated when I order and the measurements I use.

 

[Kirby N.]

Ok, what I figured out tonight:

The explorer and F150 axle ends seem to be the same:

They both measure the same. This is an explorer and I measured my f150 and it is the same.

HOWEVER- big discovery and confirmed my suspicion: I believe the Explorer shafts are actually 3/16" longer in relation to the housing width- They hang out of the housing 3/16" more than f150 shafts hang out of the f150 housing. I got this by comparing the measurement from the caliper mounting surface to axle shaft flange and comparing them.

I didn't actually get a housing measurement flange to flange for the explorer (wish I would have) IF SOMEONE HAS ONE LAYING AROUND PLEASE SHARE THAT MEASUREMENT. I did get a measurement for the f150 axle and it is 60 3/16" brake flange to brake flange. The Axle shaft flange WMS (without the disks on) on the f150 is 65 3/8". I read the explorer is 59 5/8" WMS to WMS- I assume with the disks on. So that would make it more like 59.5 axle shaft flange WMS (without disks on). so:

Explorer vs. f150 axle WMS differences: 5 3/16" 5 3/4"

My guess- cannot confirm without a explorer brake flange to brake flange measurement

Explorer vs F150 Brake Flange to brake flange differences: 5 9/16" 6 1/8"

MY GUESS WOULD BE: explorer housing brake flange to brake flange is 54 5/8" 54 1/16"- outside where the brake backing plate mounts to the other outside.

Can anyone confirm for me? I am ready to order, but I would love to have this measurement to confirm before I do.

I am ordering up some axle shafts from Moser NOT dutchman. The dutchman ones are cheaper, but they are only made from forged alloy 1541-H material-which is only slightly stronger than stock. The Moser custom shafts are $100 more, but they appear to be made from Chromolly 4140 or the like. I am going to call tomorrow and confirm.

Some pics of my work tonight:

Existing disk brake setup:

Inside shot:

I am going to get another backing plate from the junk yard. I had to cut these down due to interference. Should be no interference with the new setup.

And I got the ranger in the garage for measurements. Spring pads, shock mounts etc. I hope to start welding them tomorrow. I had a few different versions of lift on the rear- and I noticed I could use about 4 degrees more pinion angle to be perfect- pointed at the tase. I am excited to learn that because I do get a tiny vibe at about 85 MPH. I bet correcting that will fix it.

I am hoping to order custom shafts from Moser tomorrow when I confirm that they will be stronger than dutchman for $100 more.

This axle shafts should make explorer disks on a full width axle a drill to 5 on 5.5 and bolt on affair and save you the headaches I experienced. It is a good $380 investment. There will also be no issues/ mods necessary for the e-brakes to fit.

Custom Mods to note:
- Smaller explorer size axle shaft end flange (6.5") to fit explorer rotors
- Smaller hub pilot to fit explorer rotors (2.75")
- Longer Axles for brake and backing plate clearance (3/16")
- 30% stronger than stock Axle Shafts

ALSO after doing my research I realized what made me fall in love with the 8.8 in the first place. Glad I didn't get that Dana 60. 8.8 works with my rear antilock brakes and it is nearly as strong as a dana 60 and has decent ground clearance. Its a good choice.

COT: Continuous output torque rating
MOT: Maximum output torque rating
Dana 35 rear axle COT: 870 MOT: 3480
Dana 44 rear axle COT: 1100 MOT: 4460
Ford 8.8 28spline COT: 1250 MOT: 4600
Ford 8.8 31spline COT: 1360 MOT: 5100
Dana60 semifloat COT: 1500 MOT: 5500

 

[Stic-o]

Seems like a lot of extra work vs some washers and custom rotors.

But I know how the research is a pain, but part of the fun.

My thought was being able to stick a factory axle shaft back in, in a jam. This actually sort of did happen when I snapped a shaft in Moab. I could have fixed it, but didn't feel like spending a night getting bathed in gear oil.

Best part was broke it part way through Poison Spider, then drove it through Gold Bar, Golden Spike, then on the highway back into town. Could not believe it held together, but that's the benefit of the disc brakes. Only lost the shaft, and found out later the locker busted too. Still using the same brakes with no issues.

 

[mounty71]

I can agree that the Explorer shafts probably sit farther out from the ends than the F150's do, but I've had my stock disk brakes working on my Bronco 8.8 for several years now. Yes the Bronco shaft flanges needed the typical machining, I did need new rotors from Currie, and there was one part of the parking brake mechanism that I needed to slightly grind down to clear the backs of the wheel studs, but the stock length axles worked for me. 3/16" longer would be enough clearance to not require the grinding I did, as long as there's no issue with the calipers lining up.

 

[410Fortune]

When I install 8.8 into Ranger the pinion gets turned up 3.75-4.0 degrees from a stock explorer setting, so we are on par there

I will weld my tubes.
I cannot do any measurements for you right now as I just sold the only loose explorer 8.8 I had around here, I have 3 more but they are all still under explorers.

I love that truss!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Kirby N.]

Seems like a lot of extra work vs some washers and custom rotors.

But I know how the research is a pain, but part of the fun.

My thought was being able to stick a factory axle shaft back in, in a jam. This actually sort of did happen when I snapped a shaft in Moab. I could have fixed it, but didn't feel like spending a night getting bathed in gear oil.

Best part was broke it part way through Poison Spider, then drove it through Gold Bar, Golden Spike, then on the highway back into town. Could not believe it held together, but that's the benefit of the disc brakes. Only lost the shaft, and found out later the locker busted too. Still using the same brakes with no issues.

Yeah- it is some extra work. As mentioned before I think the washers behind the rotors is little hokey and I don't like that idea. I also never liked how I had to clearance the e- brake parts etc. Seems like it was never quite right. This way I get stronger shafts too. I just talked to Moser and they wouldn't tell me what makeup their axle shafts are but claimed 30% increase over stock strength. So I am going to go with them. I dont think I will ever have issue with broken shafts on the rear of my ranger. 35" tires and she is pretty light back there. And 30% more strength in shaft. However, if I do I could still use a stock shaft in a pinch. would have to go rotor less and maybe take apart the interfering brake parts. That is nice to hear that you have had good luck with the brakes retaining a broken shaft.

Lastly, the wear part- the rotors- will be nice to have closer to stock. I have already had mine turned once- and they guy would only do it because they were a "custom" application. He said if it were for a stock explorer they were not turnable- so I think the next time they need turned Ill be out of luck.

I anticipate new rotors and new brakes this time around. Drilling for the bigger bolt pattern will be all that is necessary. no opening up the center hole.

 

[Kirby N.]

I can agree that the Explorer shafts probably sit farther out from the ends than the F150's do, but I've had my stock disk brakes working on my Bronco 8.8 for several years now. Yes the Bronco shaft flanges needed the typical machining, I did need new rotors from Currie, and there was one part of the parking brake mechanism that I needed to slightly grind down to clear the backs of the wheel studs, but the stock length axles worked for me. 3/16" longer would be enough clearance to not require the grinding I did, as long as there's no issue with the calipers lining up.

Sounds like you had the same experience as I did- and the same suspicions on the shaft length to housing length. I don't think there will be an issue with calipers lining up based on where they land on the brackets now- toward the inside. I will look at that closely when I put my current setup back together though.

I also thought it would be good to think about how similar my front and rear axles are track width wise because the rear will be gaining 3/8". They are almost dead on the same WMS to WMS. Front is 65.5, rear with rotors is about 65.5 with rotors- so this will have my rear 3/16" wider on each side. Should be fine.

 

[Kirby N.]

When I install 8.8 into Ranger the pinion gets turned up 3.75-4.0 degrees from a stock explorer setting, so we are on par there

I will weld my tubes.
I cannot do any measurements for you right now as I just sold the only loose explorer 8.8 I had around here, I have 3 more but they are all still under explorers.

I love that truss!!!!!!!!!!!

That is ok. Thanks anyway. I might run down to the pull and pay before I order. Littleton pull and pay (my favorite) is closed right now with COVID. The one in fountain is open. They are both about the same distance from my house. About 45 minutes. We will see how much work I get done today.

Thanks- I am pleased with the truss too!

I am not sure how my current pinion angle compares to stock- I was comparing what I am running right now vs what the new axle will be. When I originally setup my current FW 8.8, I was guessing on a lot of stuff. Mostly final ride height. It is really nice that now I can set it with all those variable sorted. Unless of course I decide to do another 1" of lift. I am leaning away from that right now though.

 

[Stic-o]

I think you'll be fine with the upgraded shafts. Mine only broke because a was hopping the rear end on Rock, trying to get up a ledge. We all know what that leads too. Stock shafts, from a '89 Bronco with who knows what kind of abuse and miles, and then me putting another 20k, and off roading them with a locker. I'd say I did pretty good.

Put Alloy shafts in after that with a 10 yr warranty. Probably never have a problem again like you.

 

[Kirby N.]

I did make it to the pull and pay before they closed today and I made a measurement.

The explorer axle brake flange to brake flange is 54 1/8".

initially it looked like my guess last night was off by 1/2". However, I think I found some mistakes in my math last night:

I did get a measurement for the f150 axle and it is 60 3/16" brake flange to brake flange. The Axle shaft flange WMS (without the disks on) on the f150 is 65 3/8". I read the explorer is 59 5/8" WMS to WMS- I assume with the disks on. So that would make it more like 59.5 axle shaft flange WMS (without disks on). so:

Explorer vs. f150 axle WMS differences: 5 3/16"

My guess- cannot confirm without a explorer brake flange to brake flange measurement

Explorer vs F150 Brake Flange to brake flange differences: 5 9/16"

MY GUESS WOULD BE: explorer housing brake flange to brake flange is 54 5/8"- outside where the brake backing plate mounts to the other outside.

F150 axle brake flange to brake flange vs explorer axle is: 6 1/16"

WMS to WMS differences are 5 3/4" (not 5 3/16" as it says above)

so 5/16" difference. I would have expected 3/8"s (3/16 per side). That is with in 1/16". Close enough for me! Worth a drive to the pick and pull for peace of mind.

 

[Kirby N.]

I have plenty of adjustment in the caliper sliders to move out 3/16"- thanks for the idea to check @mounty71

I ordered axles from Moser tonight. Should ship in a few days. I should have them in a week or two if the world doesn't cave in.

Here are the specs of what I ordered. I ended up measuring my axle shafts multiple times and came out 1/16" shorter on each side than what I find for sale out there for stock replacement length on rock auto etc. Weird. I measured about 6 times with 3 different tapes. I decided to go with what I measured and add the 3/16".

C31CST - C31CST - Custom Length C-Clip 31 Spline Axles (1-PAIR) TYPE OF REAR END: 8.8" FORD BEARING SEAT DIAMETER:: 1.618" DRIVER SIDE "C" (OVERALL AXLE LENGTH): 33 5/16" PASSENGER SIDE "C" (OVERALL AXLE LENGTH): 31 3/16" HUB PILOT ("A"): 2.772" BOLT PATTERN: 5 X 5 1/2" (FORD) STUD TYPE: .685" KNURL PRESS-IN 2ND BOLT PATTERN:: NONE AXLE FLANGE DIAMETER ("J"): 6 1/2" TYPE OF BRAKES/MANUFACTURES PART NUMBER: Ford Explorer 2001 disk TYPE OF DIFFERENTIAL/MANUFACTURE:: ARB Air Locker AXLE FLANGE TO AXLE FLANGE ("D"): 65 3/8" HOUSING END TO HOUSING END ("E"): 60 3/16" DRIVER SIDE HOUSING END TO PINION CENTER ("F") (NOT MEASURED THROUGH TUBES!): 28 3/8" PASSENGER SIDE HOUSING END TO PINION CENTER ("G") (NOT MEASURED THROUGH THE TUBES!): 31 13/16"

 

[Kirby N.]

In my line of work- its pretty weird to have a slow easter weekend. On the few I managed to get off work- we have always headed to Moab for EJS. Well, since lockdown and pre-recording- its turned out to be a quiet weekend for me and it has been nice.

Watched the passion last night and will be sleeping in a little tomorrow.

Tonight I got some work done on the rear end. I got the spring mounts welded on and I just tacked the shock mounts on. I am not sure how the brake house is going to work with this giant truss. And the shock mounts I got are not as off set as the old ones. With the FW axle brake lines- the flex hose comes down on the drivers tube and bolts on where the vent hooks up. Then the lines go off from there. its a little goofy because of the truss and on the ranger the shock mount on that driver side almost interferes with it. I am going to do some thinking on this. I may mount the brake line to the truss above the vent or I can fish the rubber hose through a hole in the truss and keep as is. IDK what will be best. For now, I didn't want to burn in the shock mounts.

 

[410Fortune]

Put it under the truck and then mock up the shock mounts?

Happy quiet Easter!

 

[Kirby N.]

Ok big mistake with the axle shafts. Well, pretty big. I dont know how I managed to mess it up.

The stud holes should have been .620 to use stock studs. For some reason I picked .685. The studs are sloppy in the holes. I remember miking the stock shaft holes, but somehow I got it wrong.

Unfortunately, the holes in the shafts are dangerously close to the outside edge of the flange on the new shafts. So I am kicking around some ideas to fix it. I will call Moser tomorrow. I suspect shipping back and forth will be more that just fixing them locally. I am considering having someone build them at .505" press in, because then I save some more space on the outside of the flange. I had a guy who was planning to order some shafts like mine ask me a bunch of questions on a pm. I am going to pm him and see if he can have his drilled correctly.