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Completed Project Kirby's 1991 Ranger Build Up

Use this prefix for completed projects that are not "How to" articles or threads asking for help.
I haven't posted much here since I sold my 1993 Mazda Navajo around 2010 or 2011. It was 10 years in the making and finally to a solid, reliable state. I had some other priorities and decided to sell it and get something more versatile. I will include some pictures below of its developing states and final state when I sold it below. In the end, it had 37" MTRs, Arb front, detroit rear, 4.56 gears, D and D doubler and I built all the armor and the Dana 44 front Solid Axle Swap.

James duff 3.5" VR coil lift, 235" defender tires and a home made heavy ugly bumper (around 2000 when I bought it) :
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2001 with 33x10.50s and James duff 4.5" lift with extended radius arms, manual hubs and new auto tranny:
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Here it is just after the SAS with 34s and a swapped in manual tcase and tranny:

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Winching out of Mikeys hot tub circa 2002 or so

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Stuck on a tree just after 37s
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37s, winch bumper rebuild etc
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Final State Explorerforum moab trip 2010

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Last Poser Shots
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I hear it still gets around Colorado and Utah and I have had buddies call me with airings from time to time.

I have had a few rangers and one explorer since I sold my explorer.
Here are some pics of those:

Beat up 1994 Ranger 2.4l ($250)
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Traded 1993 Ranger 4.0l and an abused auto tranny

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1991 Manual Tcase and Tranny Explorer Sport

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We have also had a ton of cool Jeeps. Here are a couple of pics, along with our current Jeep which we are hanging on to:

2005 unlimited Rubicon Sahara 5.7 L Hemi
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2005 unlimited Rubicon 35s and 4" lift
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Our Current 2005 Unlimited Rubicon 4" Lift 315 Kevlars
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It does great grocery getter, family truckster, and occasional wekend wheeler, but I need a truck and I miss my exploder, so I decided to build a Ranger. However, I want to build it a little different this time.

I have always wanted to build a 1989-1992 ranger, so I spent a considerable amount of time looking for a low mile one with the right engine, tranny and tcase in good shape. 4.0l, m5od and 1354M stock. My explorer ended up with this combo, but started out as an auto tranny and tcase. This made for a ton of modifications and headaches with my explorer. Rangers can be had in many other undesirable configurations because they were available with 3 different v6s in 1989-92 and a 4cylinder. It proved to be a difficult task. Finally in the fall of 2012 I picked this one up. A 1991 4.0l manual tranny and transfer case 4x4 extended cab "mountain States Edition. It had 130k on it and ran great. The paint was toast, it had a rusty bed and (my biggest complaint) it had no factory air.

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I drove it for a year until I was ready to have it painted. I fixed a bunch on it- thermostat, muffler, wheel bearings, brakes, had a new headliner installed, etc. When I got a quote for the paint (one solid color and fix the dings) it was 2k. So then I started thinking I better look for a different ranger to build! I settled on this one. It too is a 1991, it has air (huge plus after not having it in my other truck all summer), manual case and tranny and everything else and a 4.0. The body is really straight no rust and the interior is super nice. The odo read 83k and I believed it.
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Since then I tracked down the original and only owner to find it has 183 k on it and they were all hwy miles. The only complaints I have is I wish it had the other mirrors and pop out extended cab windows. I can deal with those, though. This truck has been taken care of.

First order of business was a tune up, brakes and leaky valve cover gaskets.

The build plan is pretty simple: build it similar to how my explorer ended up, with out all the half builds in between. It took me a lot of work and money to get my explorer to preform well off-road and on the street and be reliable. On this one I want to skip all the poor performing, cheapskate half steps I took with the explorer.

My goal is to end up with a reliable, daily drive able, off-road capable ranger that will make a great driver, great work truck and great expo vehicle. I like the idea of a truck over a explorer sport because I need to haul dirt bikes and Sheetrock and plywood and all kinds of stuff all the time so I always needed a pickup when I had the explorer even though I wanted to drive the explorer all the time. Hopefully this will do both functions well.

So far, I have installed:

A blue tooth pioneer stereo (replacing the stock tape deck)
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A optima yellow top
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A Black grill and headlight bezels along with new headlights:
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The only body work it needs is the topper it had on it was put on with a loose and poorly placed clamp that rubbed a hole in the bed cap. I will weld it up and hopefully add a LineX bedliner over the top
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I purchased a Dana 44 out of a 76 f150 with no guts or outers for a $50 bill. I still have my spare warn premium hubs off my ex, and I plan to build this one stout before I put it in and leave it full width but move the c bushings in about 2" per side. I will likely then run stock style f150 wheels with stock backspacing and 35s or 37s as skinny as I can find. It will get a full rebuild and at least 4.88s, maybe 5.13s. I am not decided on radius arms yet. I suppose extended ones are on the bill instead of the stock wristed ones I had before, but I haven't sorted that out yet. The wrist traveled fine but it clunked and made a racket and it was also a pain to get out and pull the pin when it was time to wheel. Extended arms won't perform quite as well on the street as the stock length ones did with the pin in, but longer arms should stream line things.

For the rear I will rebuild a full width late model 31 spline 8.8 put of a bronco or f150 and install explorer disk brakes. I will likely need to have the axle flanges turned down and drill the rotors for the new bolt pattern.

I will extend the wheel base around 3" by moving the front axle forward and leave the rear axle centered in the wheel well. I plan to leave the bed size stock as I need the truck to haul stuff all the time. I will build bumpers and sliders before I beat it up this time.

Stay Tuned, I am picking up the front axle tomorrow.
 



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I found some press in studs that will work (made by moser), but I am considering sending these shafts back to be redone with a smaller hole so that there is more material on the outside of the holes in the flange. Perhaps even having them threaded for 1/2x20 screw in studs which I understand are stronger??? I wanted to try to get a hold of Moser today, but I had a lot going and I missed their window. I am going to call back monday. Then it will depend on shipping cost and their charge to fix them. One guy on the phone the other day said it would be $50 charge to do another bolt pattern but he wasn't very helpful. I don't know what shipping will be. Shipped to me was like $50. $150 mistake is really hard to swallow. I talked to a local machinist and he doesn't want to mess with them because they are hardened chromoly shafts. The 1/2"x20 threaded studs will be around .18 smaller holes I think. This translates into about 3/32" more material on the outside of the flange. In my mind, it is worth that. Grr. I hope I am saving someone some time.

Also, I ran across another interesting fact. 83-86 bronco shafts have a smaller button/ brake pilot deal on them that will fit the explorer rotors. You still have to deal with the too large flange for the rotors and the shorter shafts that interfere with the brakes, but this would be easier than a stock shaft in the 90s broncos/ f150s.

 



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if they are hardened chromolly shafts are you sure you need more material around the stud hole? I mean, what's the harm if you run the larger studs the axles were drilled for?
 






I am thinking you might be creating a issue where there is none. If you found studs that fit I would go with them. Those flanges are solid, and with a wheel bolted to them that is a lot of surface area to spread out the load. I don't see how the studs could pull at an angle to rip out of the flange.
 






You guys are probably right. I talked to Moser and the dude said they wouldn't have sent them if they would be a problem. He said that they need at least 1/16" and these definitely have that. Its probably close but they have it. However, he said the drilled and threaded ones would be significantly stronger and if I didn't feel comfortable with them, he would redrill and thread for free. So I shipped them back yesterday. I really want them done correctly and I don't want to have to mess with them or worry about it again. So it is worth waiting a couple more weeks and paying shipping for the peace of mind even if it is overkill.
 






Maybe have Moser install the studs while they have the axles? Make sure you are not going to have any more problems.
 






haha. good call!
 






I was thinking you might get them back and the studs you got are a different thread pattern or something.
 






I got the axles back with the studs installed. They look way, way better with these studs this way. They did come installed- thanks for the suggestion Brian. I am glad I went ahead and sent them back. Nothing to worry about now. Here are some pics:

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Your right, WAY better. I know that when properly seated and torqued lugs / wheels are mounted, any pull or pressure is not a side load, but I like the new studs better.
 






Your right, WAY better. I know that when properly seated and torqued lugs / wheels are mounted, any pull or pressure is not a side load, but I like the new studs better.

I just feel better about them.

I started the day installing some 4.56s in a friends his Chrysler 8.25 for his XJ. That is a really nice axle to work on. The backlash is so easy to set.

After that, I wasn't done wrenching so I pulled the ranger in and started the 8.8 swap.


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I had one bolt on a shock that gave me a fit. It was seized up in the metal sleeve inside so much that it wouldn't come out. I fought it for a couple hours and then I found this idea on a toyota forum. You cut off the head, then with washers, use the nut to press it out. it worked fantastic once I got an impact on it.

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I am about to check the pattern on the gears. Used the same pinion depth as in the last housing and I am going to set the backlash the same. You always have to do that with a used gear set. If you try to correct it, it will be noisy.

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Got gears all setup and ran the ARB line. I decided to use the 90 degree elbow so that I could follow the brake line up on the passenger side.

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I got the ebrakes assembled. All new parts. Wagner pads and a motorcraft hardware kit.

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Then I got the axle shafts in

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Fit like a glove! Plenty of clearance.

Then 5 on 5.5 drilled rotors went on.

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no rubbing and I was able to run the full dust shield too.

Next I installed a new set of calipers. The old ones were hanging up a little. I picked a set with any corrosive coating on them this time. Maybe they will last a little while this time. It was crazy how hard the years of daily driving this thing has experienced has been on stuff.


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Next I ran new brake lines. I liked to use the stock bronco lines before. They worked well with a little shortening to use the explorer outer brake lines instead of the wheel cylinders, but with the truss I choose to just start from scratch with some new lines since it turned out pretty good. Remember I am using some dodge stock line between the axle and frame. I hate, hate, hate stainless aftermarket lines. I almost died once due to how much they suck.


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I also used two stock brackets to mount the long hard line.

Got it slid under the truck and mounted it up.
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The calipers on their mounts ( the bolts/sleeves) are close to being at the far outside of travel with brand new pads and the calipers new fully spread. I think if I did this again, I would only do 1/8" longer shafts. We might do this on my buddys bronco and we will do 1/8" instead of 3/16".
 

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I love how the exhaust goes through your bumper!!
Any worries about it melting the bumper paint? finish?
 






Thanks man. Yeah, no worries. It has been like that a couple years now and no problems. It is nice and protected too.
 






I got the rear axle in. The vibe and clatter at 85-90 is gone. Seems to pull little to the left on the road. I need to explore that a little more. No gear whine. Arb works like magic. Its pretty cool to have a rear locker in the ranger. Its been open for too long. I have an ebrake again. last winter I accidentally left it engaged in 4 low when winching out my sisters jeep and something came apart. Turned out the passenger pads dislocated and the cable came off the lever. I have just been running with out an ebrake for months.

I need to tighten the ubolts. It has been some miles.

Other things:

The added pinion angle caused the driveshaft to rub slightly on the fuel tank skid again. It has been fighting me for years. Ugh. I dont know if it is worth fixing. It isn't a lot, but in certain tire stuffing situations it makes a little noise.

I noticed right before I tore it down that the drivers bilstien has unthreaded from the eye just like the passenger. The stud is off the mount and just sitting there useless. This is starting to get annoying. I tried to remove it from the truck so I can weld it, but the bolt for it is froze up in the sleeve that James duff calls a shock mount on these expensive radius arms. What a dumb design. . So I have been head scratching on that one a while. I might just weld in place. I might cut off the mount and start over.

The rear shock mounts are definitely up higher. The shocks near bottom out when the rear is stuffed. I might just need to get some new shocks.

I also noticed that the chevy 63" springs move around a ton on the mounts in the rubber. Not sure why or what to do, but I can wobble the rear of my truck back and forth and this is where it moves. That has got to affect handling.

I have a couple of pics, but my phone died. Ill post tomorrow.
 






the leaf spring bushings are loose inside the leaf? Maybe that's why it pulls left?

All these extended radius arms and still nobody puts a double sheer on the lower shock stud. They need a double sheer mount!!
I have welded, upgraded, over tightened the studs on my Skyjacker arms so many times. I am like you I need to just add some tabs to add the double sheer mount and be done with it.

Why don't you trim the fuel tank skid? Is it plastic? I always trim the plastic, no more rubbing noise.
Or you can move your t case over to the pass side about 3/8" by slotting the cross member mounting holes
this helps with rear d shaft vibrations also

Now I know where to go when we want to setup an ARB! Ill be over in just a bit....

Keep em coming!
 






The just move around a lot. Like the rubber flexes too much. If I can attach a video I will take one and show you. I have trimmed the gas tank skid. a bunch of times and replaced the factory steel structure with some 1/4"x3" strap for more clearance because it is lower profile. That is a great idea on moving the tase. I didn't think about that option. Ill get under there and see if I can do that.
 






I am never buying bilstien shocks again ever. They have been good shocks. They are still dampening. For something like this to happen on 2 out of 4 shocks and for them to blame me. I think I will spend my money elsewhere.
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I decided to weld in place so I dont have to deal with the frozen bolt. I will just plan to cut off the mount and start over on the next set of shocks.

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It will work for now. I have been driving the truck for a couple days. I am pleased with the axle swap.

Here are those shots of suspension travel I promised. The old spots don't have enough to completely cycle the suspension. I am going to need some new spots I guess.

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I still need to fix that back window. I haven't found one that is the correct year to be a direct swap. However, I did find 2 newer ones and I have those in the garage.
 






I have similar experiences with Bilstein and when you ask about warranty they laugh because it must have been your fault right?

That lower shock mount is the big suck! That's how Duff ships them?
Truck looks awesome!! Great looking dogs too, good dogs, STAY...............
 






I have similar experiences with Bilstein and when you ask about warranty they laugh because it must have been your fault right?

That lower shock mount is the big suck! That's how Duff ships them?
Truck looks awesome!! Great looking dogs too, good dogs, STAY...............

Yeah, I was really disappointed. They seem like a good product, but if the company doesn't back them it doesn't matter.

That is how duff ships the arms. I think it is so you could run some dual shocks. They are really lame. I will but them off one of these days.

Good news is that I got the flip pac on the truck today. The bad news is that it doesn't even come close to fitting in the garage with it on and I can't keep tripping over it in the garage. Also, it barely touches the top of my cab- which is probably just an issue on my truck because my body guy body worked the roof and undid the roof brace and reglued it higher. I am sure my roof is a little taller than every other ranger. I also hate the idea of not being able to use my bed for dirt bikes and stuff.

UGH! Fortunately, they seem to be worth a pretty penny right now- so I think I will try to sell it and re evaluate my options. If I can do well on it, I can get a RTT or something. IDK. I always wanted one of these, but those details seem to be too much.

Anyway, check out the pics:

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how far from fitting in the garage? Like 3" or like 18"?
Flip pack is wicked cool
You would have to tow your bikes though...so if you cant make it fit and work then consider hauling the bikes and tow a pop up camper?
pop ups also have alot to offer including some plumbing and counter space, a table, etc
You can sell the flip pack to pay for the pop up?
pop up can also be left at campsite while the truck ventures off......
everyone whos anyone these days has a compact tear drop camper....I still prefer the pop ups, so much room inside when they are setup and they come in all different sizes and price ranges


I live the flip pack, but it has to fit your needs too and I know you are not gonna stick some 235's on there so it will tuck into the garage :)
 






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