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Kirby's 1991 Ranger Build Up


Kirby N.

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I found some press in studs that will work (made by moser), but I am considering sending these shafts back to be redone with a smaller hole so that there is more material on the outside of the holes in the flange. Perhaps even having them threaded for 1/2x20 screw in studs which I understand are stronger??? I wanted to try to get a hold of Moser today, but I had a lot going and I missed their window. I am going to call back monday. Then it will depend on shipping cost and their charge to fix them. One guy on the phone the other day said it would be $50 charge to do another bolt pattern but he wasn't very helpful. I don't know what shipping will be. Shipped to me was like $50. $150 mistake is really hard to swallow. I talked to a local machinist and he doesn't want to mess with them because they are hardened chromoly shafts. The 1/2"x20 threaded studs will be around .18 smaller holes I think. This translates into about 3/32" more material on the outside of the flange. In my mind, it is worth that. Grr. I hope I am saving someone some time.

Also, I ran across another interesting fact. 83-86 bronco shafts have a smaller button/ brake pilot deal on them that will fit the explorer rotors. You still have to deal with the too large flange for the rotors and the shorter shafts that interfere with the brakes, but this would be easier than a stock shaft in the 90s broncos/ f150s.

 


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410Fortune

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if they are hardened chromolly shafts are you sure you need more material around the stud hole? I mean, what's the harm if you run the larger studs the axles were drilled for?
 




BKennedy

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I am thinking you might be creating a issue where there is none. If you found studs that fit I would go with them. Those flanges are solid, and with a wheel bolted to them that is a lot of surface area to spread out the load. I don't see how the studs could pull at an angle to rip out of the flange.
 




Kirby N.

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You guys are probably right. I talked to Moser and the dude said they wouldn't have sent them if they would be a problem. He said that they need at least 1/16" and these definitely have that. Its probably close but they have it. However, he said the drilled and threaded ones would be significantly stronger and if I didn't feel comfortable with them, he would redrill and thread for free. So I shipped them back yesterday. I really want them done correctly and I don't want to have to mess with them or worry about it again. So it is worth waiting a couple more weeks and paying shipping for the peace of mind even if it is overkill.
 




BKennedy

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Maybe have Moser install the studs while they have the axles? Make sure you are not going to have any more problems.
 




Kirby N.

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haha. good call!
 




BKennedy

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I was thinking you might get them back and the studs you got are a different thread pattern or something.
 




Kirby N.

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I got the axles back with the studs installed. They look way, way better with these studs this way. They did come installed- thanks for the suggestion Brian. I am glad I went ahead and sent them back. Nothing to worry about now. Here are some pics:

IMG_2957.JPG

IMG_5184.JPG
 




BKennedy

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Your right, WAY better. I know that when properly seated and torqued lugs / wheels are mounted, any pull or pressure is not a side load, but I like the new studs better.
 




Kirby N.

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Your right, WAY better. I know that when properly seated and torqued lugs / wheels are mounted, any pull or pressure is not a side load, but I like the new studs better.
I just feel better about them.

I started the day installing some 4.56s in a friends his Chrysler 8.25 for his XJ. That is a really nice axle to work on. The backlash is so easy to set.

After that, I wasn't done wrenching so I pulled the ranger in and started the 8.8 swap.


IMG_2033.JPG


I had one bolt on a shock that gave me a fit. It was seized up in the metal sleeve inside so much that it wouldn't come out. I fought it for a couple hours and then I found this idea on a toyota forum. You cut off the head, then with washers, use the nut to press it out. it worked fantastic once I got an impact on it.

IMG_0178.JPG


I am about to check the pattern on the gears. Used the same pinion depth as in the last housing and I am going to set the backlash the same. You always have to do that with a used gear set. If you try to correct it, it will be noisy.

552CF83D-9C55-491C-B6B9-C9C7E5699B25.JPG
FF025F43-DE33-43CD-B957-82467609AE5D.JPG
IMG_6977.JPG
IMG_8745.JPG
 




Kirby N.

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Got gears all setup and ran the ARB line. I decided to use the 90 degree elbow so that I could follow the brake line up on the passenger side.

IMG_7336.JPG

I got the ebrakes assembled. All new parts. Wagner pads and a motorcraft hardware kit.

IMG_3461.JPG

IMG_6167.JPG


Then I got the axle shafts in

IMG_5807.JPG



IMG_9481.JPG

Fit like a glove! Plenty of clearance.

Then 5 on 5.5 drilled rotors went on.

IMG_0409.JPG


IMG_0409.JPG

no rubbing and I was able to run the full dust shield too.

Next I installed a new set of calipers. The old ones were hanging up a little. I picked a set with any corrosive coating on them this time. Maybe they will last a little while this time. It was crazy how hard the years of daily driving this thing has experienced has been on stuff.


IMG_4095.JPG

Next I ran new brake lines. I liked to use the stock bronco lines before. They worked well with a little shortening to use the explorer outer brake lines instead of the wheel cylinders, but with the truss I choose to just start from scratch with some new lines since it turned out pretty good. Remember I am using some dodge stock line between the axle and frame. I hate, hate, hate stainless aftermarket lines. I almost died once due to how much they suck.


IMG_0643.JPG


IMG_9992.JPG

IMG_5199.JPG

I also used two stock brackets to mount the long hard line.

Got it slid under the truck and mounted it up.
IMG_5548.JPG


The calipers on their mounts ( the bolts/sleeves) are close to being at the far outside of travel with brand new pads and the calipers new fully spread. I think if I did this again, I would only do 1/8" longer shafts. We might do this on my buddys bronco and we will do 1/8" instead of 3/16".
 

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410Fortune

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I love how the exhaust goes through your bumper!!
Any worries about it melting the bumper paint? finish?
 




Kirby N.

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Thanks man. Yeah, no worries. It has been like that a couple years now and no problems. It is nice and protected too.
 




Kirby N.

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I got the rear axle in. The vibe and clatter at 85-90 is gone. Seems to pull little to the left on the road. I need to explore that a little more. No gear whine. Arb works like magic. Its pretty cool to have a rear locker in the ranger. Its been open for too long. I have an ebrake again. last winter I accidentally left it engaged in 4 low when winching out my sisters jeep and something came apart. Turned out the passenger pads dislocated and the cable came off the lever. I have just been running with out an ebrake for months.

I need to tighten the ubolts. It has been some miles.

Other things:

The added pinion angle caused the driveshaft to rub slightly on the fuel tank skid again. It has been fighting me for years. Ugh. I dont know if it is worth fixing. It isn't a lot, but in certain tire stuffing situations it makes a little noise.

I noticed right before I tore it down that the drivers bilstien has unthreaded from the eye just like the passenger. The stud is off the mount and just sitting there useless. This is starting to get annoying. I tried to remove it from the truck so I can weld it, but the bolt for it is froze up in the sleeve that James duff calls a shock mount on these expensive radius arms. What a dumb design. . So I have been head scratching on that one a while. I might just weld in place. I might cut off the mount and start over.

The rear shock mounts are definitely up higher. The shocks near bottom out when the rear is stuffed. I might just need to get some new shocks.

I also noticed that the chevy 63" springs move around a ton on the mounts in the rubber. Not sure why or what to do, but I can wobble the rear of my truck back and forth and this is where it moves. That has got to affect handling.

I have a couple of pics, but my phone died. Ill post tomorrow.
 




410Fortune

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the leaf spring bushings are loose inside the leaf? Maybe that's why it pulls left?

All these extended radius arms and still nobody puts a double sheer on the lower shock stud. They need a double sheer mount!!
I have welded, upgraded, over tightened the studs on my Skyjacker arms so many times. I am like you I need to just add some tabs to add the double sheer mount and be done with it.

Why don't you trim the fuel tank skid? Is it plastic? I always trim the plastic, no more rubbing noise.
Or you can move your t case over to the pass side about 3/8" by slotting the cross member mounting holes
this helps with rear d shaft vibrations also

Now I know where to go when we want to setup an ARB! Ill be over in just a bit....

Keep em coming!
 




Kirby N.

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The just move around a lot. Like the rubber flexes too much. If I can attach a video I will take one and show you. I have trimmed the gas tank skid. a bunch of times and replaced the factory steel structure with some 1/4"x3" strap for more clearance because it is lower profile. That is a great idea on moving the tase. I didn't think about that option. Ill get under there and see if I can do that.
 




Kirby N.

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I am never buying bilstien shocks again ever. They have been good shocks. They are still dampening. For something like this to happen on 2 out of 4 shocks and for them to blame me. I think I will spend my money elsewhere.
IMG_3324.JPG


I decided to weld in place so I dont have to deal with the frozen bolt. I will just plan to cut off the mount and start over on the next set of shocks.

IMG_0545.JPG


It will work for now. I have been driving the truck for a couple days. I am pleased with the axle swap.

Here are those shots of suspension travel I promised. The old spots don't have enough to completely cycle the suspension. I am going to need some new spots I guess.

IMG_5351.JPG
IMG_7750.JPG
IMG_7848.JPG


I still need to fix that back window. I haven't found one that is the correct year to be a direct swap. However, I did find 2 newer ones and I have those in the garage.
 




410Fortune

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I have similar experiences with Bilstein and when you ask about warranty they laugh because it must have been your fault right?

That lower shock mount is the big suck! That's how Duff ships them?
Truck looks awesome!! Great looking dogs too, good dogs, STAY...............
 




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