LD50 Full-size axle thread `93 Ex

[Burns]

Wow very nice man. I always liked your rig. Great things coming from your brain

 

[FROADER]

IZwack and I both agree that Jim from BC, needs to ask for a tube bender for Valentines Day.

Looks great!

 

[ld50]

IZwack and I both agree that Jim from BC, needs to ask for a tube bender for Valentines Day.

Funny story there. I actually borrowed a tube bender from a friend and on my second bend the fricken die cracked and broke. When I went to get a new die, it looked like I had to wait through the weekend so I said the hell with it and started piecing with 22.5* cuts. I didn`t know when I`d have the time again and my weekend was cleared for doing it.
I`d like a nice bender, but better than that bottle jack cheapie, couldn`t believe it broke.

 

[IZwack]

Option: http://www.gottrikes.com/AH_tubebender.htm

 

[cybergasm]

Option: http://www.gottrikes.com/AH_tubebender.htm

Nice find IZ

 

[ld50]

That IS nifty.

Anyway I did use my crappy borrowed tube bender to make a couple bends for my next creation: elecrified shock rails. However, due to some fairly strict laws around here regarding driving around in this manner, not to mention my own fears regarding insulation methods and how I would actually enter and exit the vehicle, I revamped the design into some more benign rock sliders; glorified nerf bars if you will.

My limited edition, LD50 built 1st Gen Explorer Sliders kit is the product of a single production run, yes, they are that rare.

The driver`s side kit is shown below:
*actual product may not be as shown

 

[ld50]

I started with the frame mount points, using 1/2 inch x 4 inch flat bar cut 8 inches long. The bend is about two inches from one side. (it starts at two inches)

I bent one first to determine where my holes would go, squeezing two inches in a vice and heating the bend point with an oxy/acetylene flame until it would bend from some hammer blows to 90 degrees, then drilled two half inch holes and two holes a little smaller. The 1/2 inch bolt holes will end up at the bottom, where most of the force of contact would be directed and larger bolts used.

I then used the bolt hole measurements from that process to drill the other 5 plates before I bent them too.

 

['97 V8]

more pictures

 

[ld50]

They're coming..

I`m making the driver`s side sliders and started with the forward one, don`t forget I swapped my front axle so the old front bracketry is gone.

*NOTE 2 inch bodylift previously installed

I butted it up against the forward body mount bracket and clamped it for drilling, then drilled out the bottom two holes and bolted it up tight. Then I clamped the rest so it was snug against the frame and drilled the other two.

I needed a right angle drill for the top holes...

 

[ld50]

Once I had my mount points to work from I set my main rail to wherabouts I wanted `er.
It is schedule 40 pipe X 1.5", almost went thicker but I hate the idea of so much weight.

I bent it to follow the rear body line a little and capped both ends.
A good trick to make a cap is to use a 1.5 inch hole saw to cut out a round coupon, and weld it on.

 

[ld50]

I lined up the 1st slider to a height equal to the lip under my rocker, using a flatedge and my trusty angle finder. I spaced it away from the body by guess and by golly, and made all six main supports as I went...
I used a hunk of square tube as a kind of spacer to maintain my gap, you can see it in a pic above..

I used rectangular tubing for the main supports 2 x 1.5 Inch pretty sure, lol I never really measured it.

 

[ld50]

Then I started tacking supports on 90 degrees to the rail and level back to the frame mounts, holding the outer end against the lower lip and leveling accordingly. The length of the supports is up to you! The top of the supports come out level with the rail, and I cut an angle where it connects to the rail, to fit it better. The center support needs an angle at the frame mount to compensate for the frame angle there.
Then I tacked in the gussets, till it was ready to remove to be welded in a more comfortable place because as you can see, it`s hard to get the welder up in the gusset.

 

[ld50]

Here is kind of what it will look like.
Before I removed them I took my zip cut and notched out where the supports are contacting the lip. I will cut them further and either remove a portion or bend them back to allow for some flex in that area.

 

[ld50]

Finally got a break from the rain so I could sandblast comfortably, So they`re blasted and painted now.
I added a small reinforcement to the rear ward support because there wasn`t much of a gusset back there.

Got one side on.

 

[ld50]

Hey, any of you folks know or can tell me how the stock e-brake cable is routed past the body mount under the forward edge of the driver`s door?
I had a bracket that came with my lift kit to change where it originally ran but I can`t remember how it connected, and I can`t see where it went now. I either have to raise the cable or lower it to clear my sliders and have to decide wether I should return it to stock, or create my own path...

 

[FROADER]

It looks like it goes under the front part of the body mount bracket, then through the back par of that same bracket. I'll go take a pic.

 

[FROADER]

Here you go.

 

[ld50]

Thanks, that explains it. I thought it went there, but when I did the body lift, it`s no longer long enough to reach under so it has to go over. LoL, pretty obvious I guess. Anyway, I`ll get it figured.
Thanks again!

 

[ld50]

Went for a burn up "Squeah" today with a Jeeper friend. He used my method of aligning his Jeep after putting in a lift by measurements only. afterwards he took it to an alignment shop in town. They were amazed because it was perfect. I`m not bringing mine in because it feels alright, but his results made me feel better about mine.

 

[ld50]

Season has officially started.