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Lets Talk Differentials

Yes I plan on keeping it road worthy. But limited to weekends, to and from trails, etc... Eventualy it will see time pulling the trailer with the buggy when it gets built. I'll have to do a removable bag setup to tow but i think it's possible. That is one of the main reasonds I want to go 8 lug with full floaters. The reason for the sas dependability,less tire wear, more stable ride did I mention dependability. I'm not apposed to 60's they are just hard to find. They would be cheeper in the long run to build than some custom axles but as I said, I like to build things kind of my relaxation. When I was runnin derby we would call things strong or overbuilt "cactus root" and I have not stopped building things that way. It's a personal flaw.:D
 






I am all for overkill building, but an 80 rear with 37's?

As many can attest I have flogged my 9" rear with no problems what so ever, and only broken 1 u-jpoint in my 44.

My next step is probably going to be a 609 front, only because I can build one and it will still be stronger than what I need. All of the options for the front, 44,60 or 609 are good choices and it just comes down to what you want to spend.

A 44 is the cheapest and I doubt you will ever run into any big problems with 37" tires. If you can find a junk chevy or dodge 60 cheap build a 609, way more than you would need for 37's but big bling factor but also pricey once you get into custom shafts. Hi9 centers are not cheap either. Finally a 60 can get built and run for less than 1k if you find a good deal or close to 3k if you want to make it nice and cant find one cheap. Again, way overkill for 37's and you lose ground clearance.

In the rear, 14b are plentiful and cheap to build, parts are easy to find but they are rock anchors. 9" beats the 14b is just about every category cept for strength but its still more than enough for 37's. Hell if your worried about it a 35spline locker and shafts isnt to terribly expensive.

IMO, with all the work it would take to make that 80 work (gears, shaved, high buck locker and shafts if you decide on 37 splines, narrowed and disks) you will be out quite a pretty penny in time and money and have an axle fit for a big block alch injected mud truck.

As for suspension, my leafs perform awsome in the rocks after some small tweaks but if I was going to see more road time I would go coils without a doubt. Spas has made hers pretty good on leafs but she had to put alot of time and money to get it that way and is constantly replacing/buying better parts.

IMO, 44 coil sprung 4 link up front (for ease of adjustability) and leaf sprung 9" rear. Overkill is great, but at what point does cost and reality trump overkill

I am toying with the idea of putting 14b outers on a 9" center but
I dont feel like dishing out for custom shafts.
 






Thanks sn0border88:

I think that I have decided on 609 front and full float 9" rear.

I actuly have a broken front kingpin 60 in the works for inners and outers and hopefully breaks. If it dosent fall through that could save me some coin. Also a broken rear 60 and a 9" housing. I have read that the spindles on a 60 will not clear 35 spline shafts so I may try to lacate a 14 bolt (broken or cheep) for the spindles and hubs.

I am prepared to spend the money to get it right the first time. That is why it will take so long. Right now I will run it as is and try not to cross the boundrys often.

The 80 is for sale and so is the hp44.

As for the true hi9 it is not realy that much more than gears+ arb 35spline+ setup kit+ nodular center to fit bearings on said 35spline locker+bearing suport and yolk= easily 1500.00 . For another grand you will recieve the highest pinion possible in a conventional axle configuration and reverse cut gear 30% stronger to run on the drive side of the gear than the coast. I have pearsonaly let to many .05&.10$ items take me out in the past I build overkill:D
 






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