M5R2 (M5OD-R2) Rebuild Deep Dive

[97Sandbox]

Lowered 4wds are dominating the drag strips… just sayin these days a 4wd f150 is faster then a mustang due to traction

Just ask Tim our Canadian lowered 4wd sport drag racing neighbor

It is tempting...especially since I have all the driveline parts I'd need. I'd need a different front coilover setup to clear axles though. Maybe someday!

Looking at that chart, my guess is that it was a Mitsubishi FM146 transmission.

 

[97Sandbox]

0.010 shim made and installed.

Clearance is now measuring between 0.011 and 0.015, so I'm calling it in-spec on average.

Rear bearings and lock nuts installed.

I'm going to need the missus to help hold the case while I torque them. Then they get staked in.

Removed the rubber rear shift rail plugs and punched the pins out of the 1/2 and 3/4 rails.

You have to slide the 3/4 fork off to get the 1/2 fork off. The less-used 1/2 fork was installed in place of the old one, then everything went back where it was.

Make sure you get everything back to neutral (position shown in both pictures above) or you'll be confused and/or sorry come reassembly time.

I went ahead and installed the new cover gasket, steel shift rail plugs, and new shifter bushings and dust cover.

We're in the home stretch now!

 

[97Sandbox]

Middle of the torque spec for countershaft nut is about 120ft-lb, not too bad. It's a 32mm nut.

The middle of the spec for the output lock nut is more like 180ft-lb...my big torque wrench only goes to 150. My plan was to go to 150 then give it another grunt of a turn. Fun fact: you can almost use a 4.0 fan clutch holding tool as a crows foot for the lock nut. I say almost because it's a bit too big. It'll be fine to drive the nut most of the way down, but when the torque gets high enough, it wants to slip. And slipping when you're pushing down with all your body weight isn't fun. I managed not to punch the ground with my wrench-holding hand, but I dislocated my shoulder on the side I was holding the case with. My wife was too grossed out, so I had to pop it back in myself haha. I've done that once before when I crashed my bike and I'm sure it's going to be sore for a couple weeks...

Ultimately, I snugged down my largest adjustable wrench and stood on it. I weigh ~195 and the wrench handle is a little longer than a foot, so I'm calling the nut torqued to spec.

Time to stake the nuts, then clean and seal the tail housing.

 

[410Fortune]

Holy crap dude… ouch
Tumeric helps with inflammation hahahahhahahahaha oh man

Nice work! Yes that nut is now torqued

Torque spec on our cv axle nuts is 220 ft lbs
I’m like 190-200 lb
I don’t use a torque wrench over 120 I just use me and my ability to push and pull on levers… never had an issue
We call it “tight as ****”

 

[97Sandbox]

Haha yeah that's how I've always done axle nuts too and I need to stick with that technique from now on. The spec for my old Civic axles was over 300ft-lb -- have to stand on the handle of a breaker bar for that kind of torque!