M90 rebuild (rudy)

[jd4242]

Your clutch master might not be able to support the throw needed. How much different is one for a mustang?

Idk..know mine is 16mm bore and Mustang is 19mm for starters.. .

I got to thinking its the master also..because a shim would only help if i was maxing out my throw..if i was doing that the pedal would be stiff right off the bat moving the slave right away..

Mines mush till about 3/4" way down then gets slightly stiff and then you can hear the pressure plate moving...i swear its got air in it or the master is bad...its doing the same thing as it did with the m5 last month,the whole reason i parked it and haven't been driving because i was losing fluid somewhere and had no pedal. .maybe my master has been bad,not my slave..its only about 2 years old

 

[jd4242]

I have both slaves and swear they look exactly the same other than having a bleeder

 

[jd4242]

They make a 7/8" master,i have a 5/8" bore right now..probably going to try this first before i pull the trans..

 

[boominXplorer]

Yeah I'd definitely try swapping the master. It could be bad but most likely maxed out of travel. The bigger bore is going to move more fluid which in turn push the slave out more.

 

[jd4242]

Yeah I'd definitely try swapping the master. It could be bad but most likely maxed out of travel. The bigger bore is going to move more fluid which in turn push the slave out more.

Im ready online and people looking for a 7/8" are saying they bought 7/8" and got it for it only to be 3/4"...said most companies are just using 3/4" for everything now..hmm

 

[boominXplorer]

3/4 is still bigger than 5/8. Check for new old stock on ebay. I assume the one you need is used in early 90s f150s

 

[jd4242]

3/4 is still bigger than 5/8. Check for new old stock on ebay. I assume the one you need is used in early 90s f150s

I take that back,idk what size i have..i bought the LUK and it doesnt say but has to be 3/4 or 5/8..dorman also list a 15mm which is even smaller...

The Mustang is 19mm or 3/4"..

Ive ordered the 7/8" one,hopefully its 7/8" and not the same as what i have or hopefully mine is just bad..idk

Ordered 9-2015

 

[vroomzoomboom]

I blame you and Don honestly. .you guys luck has seemed to rub off on me..lol

 

[jd4242]

So the new starter and 7/8" master fixed those issues. .the starter actually was worn pretty bad compared to the new one,the teeth were a good 1/8th longer at least. ..

The new master was all steel and much beefier..the angle was slightly different so the hole it fits through i needed to bore out so it could spin some,then one new hole needed to be drilled..but it works perfectly, starts to move the pressure plate about a 2" pressed..it feels 100% better than old clutch and master..its firm the whole time but easier to press than old one,shifts smooth as butter and super tight..

Tomorrow going to pull the passenger cover and check the rockers..i honestly think i just messed up adjusting them,everyone was different. .think i need to find a better way of doing it..i set it at 0 lash and then preloaded one full turn...this obviously wasnt best way..bad part to get the driverside cover off the supercharger needs to come off so i HOPE something jumps out at me on the passenger as its the LOUDEST. ..

 

[jd4242]

Well found out why it was running bad and im PISSED...!!!!!

KNEW I SHOULDNT HAVE USED THIS BS!!

 

[boominXplorer]

What diameter is that stud? I've got some off a set off a small block ford that's very similar to what he used. It appears he welded it though.

 

[jd4242]

What diameter is that stud? I've got some off a set off a small block ford that's very similar to what he used. It appears he welded it though.

View attachment 151009

They are drilled and tapped.probably same you have...i wont be running or trusting this without a top girdle. .stock it is..

 

[jd4242]

So now the issue is that i need to run lash caps..they dont make caps shallow enough to fit the intake valve tip..the intake valve tip extenzes .051 above the lock..the caps depth is .090 so i need to find a way to mill the cap down to about .045 so it doesnt press on my locks..the top thickness is .080 so need to order pushrods .080 shorter...

How im gonna mill them is biggest issue and if they will stay on the valve tip with that shallow of a depth...know more tomorrow

 

[jd4242]

Well milled the caps down and it was not easy to say the least..i have a set of sealed power pushrods in 5.485 length that im gonna throw in,they will be a little long but think they will work..essentially be like running a 5.565 pushrod,these motor typically fall in the 5.525-5.550 range for about .060 preload,the plunger travel is about .150 so ill still have plenty of plunger travel plus my copper gaskets were .060 which is about .010 thicker than normal gaskets. .soo should be safe..

Tomorrow im going to rip the supercharger off and throw it all in..FUN FUN!!

 

[jd4242]

Wellll she's alive! !! Still pissed at Tom and sure i see a dollar back but who cares..

Needs a tune real real bad..at cruise its running super lean,so bad im not risking driving it..it bounces back and forth from 16-17 at cruise and jumps to 10-11 when you try to accelerate..the check engine light is on i assume from running lean..thought vacuum leak but im pulling about 16-18 which is what it was pulling before..

I will say this,this thing has some POWER..i haven't got on it at all but a 1/4" press of the gas and it jumps into boost and twist the body up..it also revs very very fast,you have to be careful as a crack of the throttle and it about jumps to redline..

Ive sent my tuner a email so hopefully he can get me in asap!!..

Rockers sound loud but honestly its one of the quietest ohv ive built

 

[gmanpaint]

Congrats man!

 

[4pointslow]

Congratulations!

 

[jd4242]

Thanks everyone. .my tuner emailed me back saying what i thought he would..basically that he cant do a full dyno tune till the clutch is broke in..but what he did say is that he can adjust the tune he has on file to have more fuel at idle and cruise. .then i can just bring my chip down and he will copy it on it for me..this is how we did it when i switched to e50,took a couple trys but he got it really close for me..this is the tune i still have and using..

Hopefully he will have it done tomorrow. .then once clutch is broke in ill bring it down for the real dyno tune adjust..

 

[jd4242]

Soo something is going on..i dont think its tune related..its been running very very lean at idle and cruise like 16-17 and very rich at acceleration like 10-11...

Tonight i checked EVERYTHING and rechecked EVERYTHING. .then reset the ecm..let it idle and warm up..seemed to run a little better so took it for a drive..it ran pretty good af like 14-15 but acceleration it would peg rich and not read..then it would switch back to lean as hell..it continued to do this every 5-10mins till it ended up just running RICH at idle and cruise and sooo rich at acceleration that it wanted to stall...

Something is going on..idk of sensor, pump/psi or something else but its going crazy and cant make its mind up or stabilize...i think the lean is when it goes into open loop or closed loop..which every is the safe mood

@4pointslow any input??

 

[4pointslow]

I would stop driving it until your tuner gets that adjusted tune for you.
Without seeing any data I may not be of much help.
Pull the plugs, see if they are black(fouled) or clean.
Weird things can happen when the mixture is not correct.
Pull the dipstick too, smell the oil on the dipstick.
If it smells like fuel change the oil.

Driving a vehicle with the A/F way off can lead to engine damage.
An overly rich mixture can cause lots of fuel in the oil from normal crankcase blowby entering the crankcase.
Fuel in the oil can thin it out and ruin bearings.

To check fuel pressure you could hook up a gauge and watch the pressure.
Make sure there are no exhaust leaks, if there are in front of the O2 sensor it can wreak havock with the A/F mixture.