How to: Manual Swap for 5.0

[97Sandbox]

My Mounty build thread has grown quite long winded and scatterbrained, but it includes some good information -- particularly in the manual swap department -- that deserves to be captured somewhere accessible. That is this how-to.

With the popularity of 5.0 swaps into Rangers and V6 Explorers, there’s already a lot of build threads -- including many manual swaps -- on the web. But I found a few nuances during my build that had been overlooked by others or at least I hadn't read about them. It’ll all be covered in here.

I'd like to take a moment to shout out the original 5.0 4R70W to M5R2 how to thread by @Nick26. That thread inspired me and helped me a lot outlining parts lists before I even had a vehicle for the build. Also huge thanks to @410Fortune for tons of help throughout my project and for giving me lots of good ideas in the fliptrac thread.

We’re starting off assuming you have a 5.0 truck, which means it has a 4R70W four-speed automatic transmission. It may be RWD or AWD. If you’re RWD, there’s a few steps in here that you can skip. If you’re AWD and inclined to have a manual transmission, you’ll probably enjoy a manual transfer case too. I won’t dive into the Borg Warner 4406 transfer case swap because it’s already covered really well in this thread.

 

[97Sandbox]

Let’s start with the pieces you’ll need to make this swap happen. First is a manual transmission: the popular choice being a Mazda M5OD-R2 (M5R2) from a 1997-2003 F150 with the 4.2L V6. These are fairly easy to come by in my local you-pull salvage yard, but if you can’t find one (or don’t want to pull one) I suggest using a salvage database site such as car-part.com to locate one near you. Make sure it’s from a 4.2L V6 truck as the bell housing bolt pattern is different for a 4.6L V8. To prep the transmission to go behind a 302, drill the bell housing bolt holes to 29/64” so they will accept larger, standard bolts from your 5.0.

To mate the transmission to your 5.0, you’ll also need a flywheel for a 1996 5.0 F150 which has the correct crank hole pattern and imbalance. You can either run a clutch for a 1996 5.0 or for a 1997 4.2, the latter has a larger surface area and can be easily made to work with the 5.0 flywheel (just need different bolts, the tapped holes are already in the flywheel). You’ll also want a block separator plate between the flywheel and transmission. Ideally, use the one from the donor 4.2L truck. If you didn’t get the plate with the transmission, you can also use one from a manual F150 with a 302 or 300 I6. This is a good time to mention you’ll need a starter for a 1996 5.0 manual F150 too -- the original starter for the automatic will not work.

Moving on to the clutch hydraulics, you will use the master cylinder/line/reservoir for a Ranger/Explorer. Hardware to hold everything In can be taken from Rangers at your local salvage yard. To get the fluid moving, you’ll need a manual pedal assembly from a Ranger/Explorer which includes the clutch and brake pedals. Go ahead and take the clutch pedal position (CPP) switch including the connector and several inches of wiring with the pedal assembly. A new slave cylinder is a good idea while it’s easy to install. It’s the same part number for a Ranger/Explorer/F150, so you can’t go wrong as long as it’s for the right year transmission.

While you’re tearing apart the dash of the above manual donor Ranger/Explorer, you’ll also want to grab all of these:

• Cluster block off (to replace PRND21)
• Upper steering column cover (no column shifter hole)
• Key interlock lever (optional, but easy to integrate and makes install just like factory)
• 12V jack/ash tray and floor duct (if you’re going away from the full-length console)

More odds and ends:

• Shift lever from older Ranger/Explorer (will have pin in proper orientation for M5R2)
• Transmission mount for 1996 5.0 manual F150 (polyurethane upgrade recommended)
• Updated PCM with auto trans monitors switched off, PATS removed (for 1998+), and air tables updated for idle without load.
• Misc. materials including steel plate, wiring, etc.
• Drive shafts and conversion U-joint(s) if you’re AWD and swapping in a 4406
• Appropriate interior parts for whatever console, arm rest, and shifter boot/bezel setup you want.

Unless you drove the truck your transmission came out of, I also suggest getting a rebuild kit with new seals, bearings, and synchros. I gambled that my 117k mile M5R2 would be fine and ended up encountering a leaky output shaft seal, bad input shaft bearings, and a worn reverse synchro. Learn from my mistake or get ready to pull a transmission an extra time!

 

[97Sandbox]

Let’s start with the teardown. First, make sure you get your truck up on ramps/jack stands/a lift high enough that you’ll be able to slide a transmission under it. Once the truck is safely supported, and battery disconnected, I suggest starting with the interior disassembly.

To get to the trans tunnel cover, remove front seats, center console, and kick panels, then pull your flooring back.

Four bolts hold the cover in place and if you live in the rust belt like me, prepare to drill them out.

While you’re in the cab, remove the dash bezel with the radio, the panel under the steering wheel, the instrument cluster bezel and instrument cluster, and the trim around the steering column. Under the dash, remove the brake pedal/bracket assembly. Getting to the top two bolts can be challenging, but I promise it’s doable with the right extensions and patience.

Next, remove the column shift lever assembly and shift lock actuator.

There is a small black plastic clip to snap the leftover shift lock actuator pigtail into to keep it out of the way.

Back under the dash, remove the plastic cover from the bulkhead connectors for the wiring harness -- you’ll be digging out a few wires for the CPP later.

Heading outside and under the truck, remove your drive shaft(s) and exhaust from the manifolds back. The latter may be easier said than done, but it will need to be done. Tip: it’s much easier to just disconnect the O2 sensors through the transmission tunnel cover than it is to remove them from the downpipes. Next, disconnect the shifter cable and transmission bulkhead connector on the driver’s side of the 4R70W. On the passenger’s side, disconnect the transmission cooler lines -- have a drip pan ready!

If you have an AWD case, disconnect the breather hose and get something under the case to support it (preferably a transmission jack). It’d probably be good to drain it first too (I did not though). Unbolt the case from the transmission and get it out from under the vehicle.

Before you get started on the transmission, note the position of the output shaft and location of the transmission mount/crossmember mounting surface. I recorded the driveline angle and the distances from an obvious point on the floor pan to the center of the output shaft and to the top of the crossmember mounting surface. You will need these later when you modify your crossmember.

For the transmission, you will need to use a transmission jack. It’s really heavy and you don’t want it dropping on anything. Support the transmission, then unbolt the transmission mount from the crossmember and the crossmember from the frame. Remove the crossmember and mark the orientation (front/rear or right/left) for later. Now unbolt and remove the starter. Then unbolt the transmission dipstick tube from the back of the passenger side cylinder head. Unbolt the inspection cover from the bottom of the bellhousing and remove the four nuts holding the torque converter to the flexplate.

The only things holding the trans to the block now are the bell housing bolts and rust. Start by removing all the bolts. The top two are hard to get to and only accessible through the trans tunnel opening in the cab. Once all the bolts are removed, apply penetrant around the block separator plate and especially around each dowel on either side of the transmission. Maybe your transmission will pull right off. Mine, however, took a great deal of prying between the bellhousing and separator plate. Once it’s broken free, pull it back, lower it, and remove the transmission from under the truck. Then go back under and remove the flexplate from the crank.

Congratulations! You have un-automatic-ified your truck! The last things to pull out are the transmission cooler and lines. That’s easiest to do with the front bumper pulled off.

 

[97Sandbox]

Now we start making it manual. In the cab, locate the wires you’ll need for the CPP. They are: starter wire, brake pedal position wire (for cruise control passthrough), and the speed control signal wire. The speed control signal wire is likely looped and spliced in with the brake pedal position wire -- you will be effectively removing the splice.

I’ll interrupt myself here and say that you should buy a wire diagram manual for your year truck. If you have a ‘99-’01, you can likely get away with using the same color wires I did (see my Mounty thread) but I’m not promising anything for older models. That’s why I’m just going to refer to wires by what they’re for.

Under the dash, install your dual-pedal bracket assembly. This may be the hardest part of the whole swap. I spent a while wrestling it in and had to loosen the steering column and move some stuff out of the way.

The BPP switch will connect to the new brake pedal the same as the old one. For the CPP, start by finding the starter signal wire at the bulkhead connector and cut it a few inches from the firewall connector. The connector side will go to pin 5 of the CPP connector and the other side will go to pin 6 (this is what disables start until the clutch pedal is depressed. Next, find the speed control signal wire loop and cut it. The side spliced into the BPP signal wire will go to pin 4 and the side that goes by itself into the bulkhead connector will be pin 3. Pins 1 and 2 will not be used.

Done under the dash for now. Moving up near where you removed the automatic shifter assembly, find the appropriate tapped hole and add your key interlock lever, if desired.

Moving on to the instrument cluster, release the tab on the bottom of the cluster and pull out the PRND21 and cable. Snap in the block off panel. You can reinstall the cluster now (good idea to replace bulbs while you’re here).

 

[97Sandbox]

Outside and under the truck, take care of any cleaning you desire and “clearance” the recommended areas if you’re adding a 4406. Now’s a good time to replace your rear main seal. If they’re not in the block, remove the two dowels from the 4R70W and install them in the block. Now hang the block separator plate on the dowels. Clean and install your flywheel -- it will only go onto the crank in one orientation. Use threadlocker on the bolts and torque appropriately.

Next, get your friction disk, pressure plate, alignment tool, and appropriate fasteners and install your new clutch. We’re almost ready to get the manual transmission in, but first, clearance the heat shield on the passenger side of the trans tunnel towards where the bellhousing will go. By clearance, I mean hammer it generously.

Now we can get the transmission onto a jack, lift it up, and stab it into the clutch -- you pulled the alignment tool out, right? Once it’s in, install the bolts to draw the bellhousing to the block and torque to spec.

Since you don’t want to leave the trans on a jack forever, let’s work on the crossmember. Jack the new transmission to where the driveline angle and/or output shaft location match what you measured before. Install your new transmission mount on the transmission and note the distance to the bottom mount surface from your previously established point. You will have to reduce the height of the crossmember by the difference between the distance to the bottom of new mount and the distance to the top of the crossmember you originally measured.

I’ve seen this done different ways, so measure twice and use your best judgment to decide what’s right for your truck.

To modify the crossmember, mark the mount centerline and the height you need to remove. Then get to cutting. Use the centerline you made before to orient the holes for the new mount -- the bolt spacing is different for the F150 mount. It’s been suggested to move the centerline ¼” towards the passenger’s side if you’re adding a 4406. I used cardboard to mock up what I needed to weld in, then I cut, bent, and drilled some plate.

It’s a lot easier to drill the metal before it’s been hardened from welding. You may find it helpful to make a jig and use scrap material as shims to get your height set just right before you tack and weld.

Now you can install the modified crossmember. Some iterative slotting of the crossmember and/or transmission mount bracket holes may be needed. Torque all fasteners to appropriate specs.

You can go ahead and install the new starter at this time. You can reinstall the exhaust too, but expect to modify the hangers since you moved their mounting point (piggyback off transmission mount).

If you’re putting in a 4406, address the shift linkage, shift lever, and case install now.

 

[97Sandbox]

With the fun fab work behind us, it’s time for more wiring. This wiring will be done at the transmission bulkhead connector. You can start by removing all the wires that had to do with transmission control (pigtail to valve body). The wires we need are for the neutral safety switch -- which we’re bypassing -- and for reverse lights. All these wires will be in the pigtail that goes to the DTRS. To bypass the NSS, install a loop between the pins for the two start circuit wires or splice them together. For reverse lights, pull out the wire for reverse lamps and the hot in run wire and connect them to the two wires that run to the reverse switch in the M5R2. As long as you’re RWD or running a manual 4406, the rest of the wires in the DTRS pigtail can be removed. If you’re running an electronic 4406, there’s more wiring to figure out, but I can’t help you because I don’t know -- sorry!

Tidy up your now simplified transmission wire harness and install it. Don’t forget to reconnect all the O2 sensors. Now is a good time to remove your original PCM and install one that’s been set up for a manual application. I ordered mine from a guy named Steve at Drag Radial Performance and cannot recommend him more highly. I just told him my setup and he tuned a PCM for me. It has worked flawlessly.

With the trans wiring and CPP wiring complete, the last bit of wiring is for cruise control. I found this is one area besides the CPP pigtail that the V8 trucks’ harness is different from the V6 trucks’. On the engine bay side of the bulkhead connector, there is no wire for the cruise control signal. Instead, the BPP signal is spliced into the wire that runs to the CC servo. To get things working right, we need to remove that splice and add in a new wire from the bulkhead connector to the wire that runs to the CC servo.

Under the hood, remove the battery and battery tray and disconnect the fuse box from its bracket. Undo the connector that matches up with the one under the dash that the CC signal wire from the CPP is wired into. Pull off the black plastic cover and find the spot where you need to run the wire. You can drill or grind out the plastic circle to expose where the pin will need to go. Pull out the white lock ring from the inside of the connector and push any remaining connector plastic out through the hole you opened up with a pick. Now you can snap in a male terminal and put the connector back together.

To eliminate the BPP splice, we’ll cut the downstream wire and run a new one to the pin you just added. I slit the loom where I pulled out the battery tray and fished out the wire that runs to the CC servo.

Cut the wire and insulate the side that runs back to the connector -- that goes to the BPP splice and you don’t want anything to do with it. The end of the wire you just cut that runs over to the CC servo is what needs to connect to the new pin.

You can either pull a new wire through the harness (possible, but challenging) or run it along the outside of the harness and just wrap it all together.

Once all that wiring is connected and wrapped up, you can reinstall the bulkhead connector, battery tray, and battery.

Before you put in the fuse box bracket and fuse box, install your clutch master cylinder. If you didn’t buy a prefilled one, bench bleed yours before installing it because the master points up into the pedal bracket and is notorious for trapping air that can’t be bled out. Once filled and bled, fish the line around the frame to the trans, insert the master through the hole where you removed the shift cable from, quarter turn the master to lock it into the pedal bracket, and fish the reservoir up to where the fuse box sat. The reservoir screws into the fender with two screws and the holes are already there.

I should mention that the best way to do all of this is through the wheel well with the inner fender removed. Once all the clutch hydraulics are in and the push rod is snapped onto the clutch pedal arm, connect the quick connect fitting to the slave cylinder at the transmission and gravity bleed the system. Then you can clean up any spilled fluid and put the fuse box bracket and the fuse box back.

At this point, all the manual swap stuff is done. Start putting back all the misc. items like driveshaft(s), interior pieces, etc. Get your battery hooked back up (make sure it’s charged after sitting while you did all that work), your truck on the ground, and fire it up. If everything was done correctly, you’re ready to put 500-1000 gentle miles on your clutch to bed it in. And just like that, you’ve got three pedals and a stick to control your V8 Explorer!