MountaineerGreen's Sliders | Page 6 | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations
  • Register Today It's free!

MountaineerGreen's Sliders




Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





IZwack

Moderator Emeritus
Joined
February 5, 2003
Messages
21,711
Reaction score
41
City, State
Germantown, MD
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Ford Explorer
After i get back from boston ill send you som Iz.:D
Thanks! Have fun in Boston -- do stop by the Museum of Science, especially if you have kids with you :D The Old Town Trolley Tour is a great way to get around, in addition to the subway (the "T") -- and make sure you drop by and feel 'ye ol cobblestones of Harvard Square ;)
 












MountaineerGreen

Towing Moderator
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
February 2, 2006
Messages
7,482
Reaction score
47
City, State
North East Arkansas
Year, Model & Trim Level
2012 F150 4x4
What were we talking about again? ;)

I did some measuring today, evaluated my pile of steel, and am going to make my own. I think I am going to tuck them in a little tighter than Ricks or Jefe's, then find someone to make me some round tube outer parts, much like FROADER's. I will put the 2x4 about 1/2" to 1" from the pinch weld and 1/2" from the body. The outriggers will be the same stuff welded to 1/4" thick 4" wide plate, gusseted , then bolted to the frame. I am going to notch the pinch weld where the outriggers pass under the body to keep things up tight. I am going to try to set it up so that I utilize some of the holes in my frame. Less drilling and more strength.

As for the chop saw, I am going to buy an Ace branded saw from the local hardware store. It has a 1 year replacement warranty, vs. the 30 day of the major brands. That way I have a whole year to burn it up. :)

I have some 6013 rods that I have been using, they make much less splatter than the 6011's and make more attractive welds.

I think I am going to paint them with the color of my lower body, spend some time and make the paint look really good, then herculine the top step area for traction since I have 1/2 of a quart left. I will tape it off and make some nice lines and curved corners.

All this will go down a few days after Christmas. I have to be done before the new year, as my job duties change, and I will have far less free time to do other stuff, :( but more money to buy stuff with :)
 






IZwack

Moderator Emeritus
Joined
February 5, 2003
Messages
21,711
Reaction score
41
City, State
Germantown, MD
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Ford Explorer
If you can, use 7018 rod for this project -- though it looks very pretty, 6013's penetration isn't very deep. 7018 penetrates a lot better, has a higher yield strength coefficient (70 Ksi), and is able to produce microscope-quality welds (that look very good) - though it requires a little bit more power compared to 6013. I'm not saying don't use 6013 and that your 6013 welds are going to break, but for a few dollars more per pound of electrode, you could make your welds even stronger :D
 






MountaineerGreen

Towing Moderator
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
February 2, 2006
Messages
7,482
Reaction score
47
City, State
North East Arkansas
Year, Model & Trim Level
2012 F150 4x4
If you can, use 7018 rod for this project -- though it looks very pretty, 6013's penetration isn't very deep. 7018 penetrates a lot better, has a higher yield strength coefficient (70 Ksi), and is able to produce microscope-quality welds (that look very good) - though it requires a little bit more power compared to 6013. I'm not saying don't use 6013 and that your 6013 welds are going to break, but for a few dollars more per pound of electrode, you could make your welds even stronger :D

Thanks for the advice, I will go get me some of those. I want good looking welds since I am going to attempt a professional quality look. I know the basic mechanics of welding, but lack experience with different materials. The welder has plenty of power, so that won't be a problem.

One of these days I am going to get a decent wire welder so I can make really nice looking stuff.

What do you think of flap disks vs grinding wheels?
 






CodePoet

Explorer Addict
Joined
July 11, 2002
Messages
2,421
Reaction score
3
City, State
Indianapolis, Indiana
Year, Model & Trim Level
1993 XLT
flap disc's worked great when i did mine :)
 






IZwack

Moderator Emeritus
Joined
February 5, 2003
Messages
21,711
Reaction score
41
City, State
Germantown, MD
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Ford Explorer
They're great but you're probably not going to use the angle-grinder much in this project. I think you're best friend in this project is going to be the chop saw :D
 












MountaineerGreen

Towing Moderator
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
February 2, 2006
Messages
7,482
Reaction score
47
City, State
North East Arkansas
Year, Model & Trim Level
2012 F150 4x4
Progress Today- Fab Work! Pictures!

I got my new chop saw first off. 149.99, 1 Year replacement warranty, 20% off. :D

sliders_004_Medium_.jpg


The steel- new, a little bit of surface rust.

sliders_003_Medium_.jpg


I measured and cut the steel- 75.5" long, then welded 1/4" x 2" x 4" plates on the end.

I used a flap disk on my angle grinder to smooth things up, it works great!

sliders_015_Medium_.jpg


The front I angled 15 degrees, the rear I left flat.

sliders_009_Medium_.jpg


sliders_010_Medium_.jpg


I cleaned the rust off of the steel, then painted it with primer to keep it good until I get back to it. Thats as far as I got, may get to work some tomorrow.

I checked the frame rails on the drivers side, and its going to be a pain to drill those holes and mount the bases! There are fuel lines all the way down that I am going to have to try not to drill through. Makes me think about welding it. Can I weld the mounts on without hurting the lines? Or do I have to move them to weld too?
 






MountaineerGreen

Towing Moderator
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
February 2, 2006
Messages
7,482
Reaction score
47
City, State
North East Arkansas
Year, Model & Trim Level
2012 F150 4x4
IZ- I bought some 7018 rods- 1/8"- I started with a scrap piece of steel and couldn't get them to weld for anything. I worked and worked, never could run a bead. I thought maybe its the welder- used a 6013 rod and welded fine.

Am I missing something here?
 






IZwack

Moderator Emeritus
Joined
February 5, 2003
Messages
21,711
Reaction score
41
City, State
Germantown, MD
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Ford Explorer
IZ- I bought some 7018 rods- 1/8"- I started with a scrap piece of steel and couldn't get them to weld for anything. I worked and worked, never could run a bead. I thought maybe its the welder- used a 6013 rod and welded fine.

Am I missing something here?
Was it sticking? If it was, then your welder isnt powerful enough. Perhaps next time, go with the 3/32" instead of the 1/8". I used 3/32" for probably 95% of the welds during the SAS project. 7018 is more "picky" compared to 6013 or 6011
 






MountaineerGreen

Towing Moderator
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
February 2, 2006
Messages
7,482
Reaction score
47
City, State
North East Arkansas
Year, Model & Trim Level
2012 F150 4x4
Was it sticking? If it was, then your welder isnt powerful enough. Perhaps next time, go with the 3/32" instead of the 1/8". I used 3/32" for probably 95% of the welds during the SAS project. 7018 is more "picky" compared to 6013 or 6011

It would stick sometimes, but most time I had to tap it against the steel to make it even spark. I can try to max out the welder and see if that helps.
 






IZwack

Moderator Emeritus
Joined
February 5, 2003
Messages
21,711
Reaction score
41
City, State
Germantown, MD
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Ford Explorer
It would stick sometimes, but most time I had to tap it against the steel to make it even spark. I can try to max out the welder and see if that helps.
Yeah 7018 is not as easy to start. Most of the time I think it has a thicker coating to protect it .. so, at proper drag angle, the actual metal of the electrode is further from the grounded metal surface - hence the harder starts.
 






Brian1

Elite Explorer
Joined
February 2, 2000
Messages
5,367
Reaction score
556
City, State
Albuquerque, NM
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 XLT
Callsign
KG5BAQ
I checked the frame rails on the drivers side, and its going to be a pain to drill those holes and mount the bases! There are fuel lines all the way down that I am going to have to try not to drill through. Makes me think about welding it. Can I weld the mounts on without hurting the lines? Or do I have to move them to weld too?

Here is my slider build thread. It might give you an alternative way to mount them to the frame. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158585

If you do weld them you should pull the lines away from the frame. To get good penetration the backside of the frame is going to heat up.
 






MountaineerGreen

Towing Moderator
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
February 2, 2006
Messages
7,482
Reaction score
47
City, State
North East Arkansas
Year, Model & Trim Level
2012 F150 4x4
Here is my slider build thread. It might give you an alternative way to mount them to the frame. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158585

If you do weld them you should pull the lines away from the frame. To get good penetration the backside of the frame is going to heat up.

Thanks, I saw your thread before, but I have no how you made that bracketry! Its amazing how nice that all looks, I just don't know if I can pull that off. You want to make me that hardware and mail it to me? ;)
 






MountaineerGreen

Towing Moderator
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
February 2, 2006
Messages
7,482
Reaction score
47
City, State
North East Arkansas
Year, Model & Trim Level
2012 F150 4x4
After looking at Brian1's pictures, I think I am going to try a clamp on set, but my brackets won't be nearly as pretty. (I think he has a whole shop at work full of tools) Thanks Brian!
 






Brian1

Elite Explorer
Joined
February 2, 2000
Messages
5,367
Reaction score
556
City, State
Albuquerque, NM
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 XLT
Callsign
KG5BAQ
After looking at Brian1's pictures, I think I am going to try a clamp on set, but my brackets won't be nearly as pretty. (I think he has a whole shop at work full of tools) Thanks Brian!

Sure, no prob. Hope you can figure out something like it that will work for you. Im looking forward to seeing them finished! (And those brackets were all made in my driveway and garage) :D
 






MountaineerGreen

Towing Moderator
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
February 2, 2006
Messages
7,482
Reaction score
47
City, State
North East Arkansas
Year, Model & Trim Level
2012 F150 4x4
Sure, no prob. Hope you can figure out something like it that will work for you. Im looking forward to seeing them finished! (And those brackets were all made in my driveway and garage) :D

Wow, I am very impressed, it looks like you bought a kit.

I am going to try to make a slip on design that eliminates the bottom bolts and is held on only by top bolts, much like a U bolt.

I hope I have enough steel for this, that wasn't in my original plans. Maybe Ill get some more done today.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.











Top