cgriffin_5139
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- October 11, 2005
- Messages
- 3,501
- Reaction score
- 0
Thanks -- ill keep this in mind when I build my sliders.
After i get back from boston ill send you som Iz.
Thanks -- ill keep this in mind when I build my sliders.
Thanks! Have fun in Boston -- do stop by the Museum of Science, especially if you have kids with you The Old Town Trolley Tour is a great way to get around, in addition to the subway (the "T") -- and make sure you drop by and feel 'ye ol cobblestones of Harvard SquareAfter i get back from boston ill send you som Iz.
If you can, use 7018 rod for this project -- though it looks very pretty, 6013's penetration isn't very deep. 7018 penetrates a lot better, has a higher yield strength coefficient (70 Ksi), and is able to produce microscope-quality welds (that look very good) - though it requires a little bit more power compared to 6013. I'm not saying don't use 6013 and that your 6013 welds are going to break, but for a few dollars more per pound of electrode, you could make your welds even stronger
Was it sticking? If it was, then your welder isnt powerful enough. Perhaps next time, go with the 3/32" instead of the 1/8". I used 3/32" for probably 95% of the welds during the SAS project. 7018 is more "picky" compared to 6013 or 6011IZ- I bought some 7018 rods- 1/8"- I started with a scrap piece of steel and couldn't get them to weld for anything. I worked and worked, never could run a bead. I thought maybe its the welder- used a 6013 rod and welded fine.
Am I missing something here?
Was it sticking? If it was, then your welder isnt powerful enough. Perhaps next time, go with the 3/32" instead of the 1/8". I used 3/32" for probably 95% of the welds during the SAS project. 7018 is more "picky" compared to 6013 or 6011
Yeah 7018 is not as easy to start. Most of the time I think it has a thicker coating to protect it .. so, at proper drag angle, the actual metal of the electrode is further from the grounded metal surface - hence the harder starts.It would stick sometimes, but most time I had to tap it against the steel to make it even spark. I can try to max out the welder and see if that helps.
I checked the frame rails on the drivers side, and its going to be a pain to drill those holes and mount the bases! There are fuel lines all the way down that I am going to have to try not to drill through. Makes me think about welding it. Can I weld the mounts on without hurting the lines? Or do I have to move them to weld too?
Here is my slider build thread. It might give you an alternative way to mount them to the frame. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158585
If you do weld them you should pull the lines away from the frame. To get good penetration the backside of the frame is going to heat up.
After looking at Brian1's pictures, I think I am going to try a clamp on set, but my brackets won't be nearly as pretty. (I think he has a whole shop at work full of tools) Thanks Brian!
Sure, no prob. Hope you can figure out something like it that will work for you. Im looking forward to seeing them finished! (And those brackets were all made in my driveway and garage)