My 4.0 Build.....

[Patton]

putfile link
Click here to watch 2001-Explorer-Sport-0-60

 

[Jakee]

It cuts off a little before 60 so I can't tell.

 

[Patton]

ahhh i see what you're saying... the actual file on my computer doesn't, i think putfile is doing that... thats so weird. crap.

 

[Jakee]

Yeap, same thing happened to the burn-out video I posted. My video shows me spinning off;the video I posted cuts it short.

 

[Patton]

Where does one find an electric water pump for my explorer?

 

[Jakee]

Patton - There isn't one for your explorer....yet.

There are options.

The first is to get a inline pump, gut your stock pump, and add a idler wheel to it. (A bunch of work)

The second is the option I WAS going to do and that is to buy another pump and modify it. (Even more work)

and for reliability reasons, I'd suggest Meizer pumps all the way. No substitutes for cheaper versions here for obvious reasons; if the pump fails, you're on the side of the road.

I believe there is a "Small" gain here, but it's probably not going to be huge. However, I bet the more HP you make the more this will help on the top end.

To sum it up, it's a bunch of work AND $$$ for a possible small gain.

Can you list a quick reminder on what mods you have done right now?

 

[Patton]

Jakee-
Thanks for the info.

Here is my list. The mods I've completed have (completed) beside them. It's a very unimpressive list so far, money has been short lately.

Stage 1 Performance
1. Mac CAI Intake Kit (~170) (Complete)

2. Cat-Back Exhaust (Dual) ($300) (Complete)

3. Throttle Body (FRPP 70 mm) (~100) (Completed)

4. Headers-to-Muffler Exhaust (removing two or three cats and replacing with a freeflow) (~$200)

5. Custom Fog-Light Ram-Air Mod (see Jakee's ride) (~$50)

6. SCT X-Calibrator 2 w/ 3 tunes (www.hensonperformance.com) (~$400)

7. MAF Housing (73 mm) (www.zabtech.com) (~$245)

8. Crankshaft Underdrive Pulley (www.hensonperformance.com) (~$255),
Alternator Overdrive Pulley (~35), Water Pump Underdrive Pulley (~85) (www.underdogperformance.com)

9. Headers (www.explorerexpress.com) (~$385)

10. Electric Fan (Flex-a-Lite Black Magic 150) (~$206)

11. Limited Slip Differential

12. 4:10 Gears

 

[rocket 5979]

Here is my list. The mods I've completed have (completed) beside them. It's a very unimpressive list so far, money has been short lately.

Hey we all started somewhere. Just remember that these forums give a jaded perspective of all this stuff. It is a concentration of modification nuts who take things mild to wild. You have already done much more than the normal person off the street does to their X so keep that in mind. Also, when I was your age I barely even had a vehicle, let alone the money to mod it. You're not doing too bad. Keep it up.

 

[Jakee]

Not too bad. You have alot left, and if you decide to go with a 73MM C&L MAF, I can save you a bunch of money. I'm going turbo so a BUNCH of my parts will go up for sale when I start the work. I'm going to part with the custom intake as well. This would save you a bunch of work.

 

[Patton]

Not too bad. You have alot left, and if you decide to go with a 73MM C&L MAF, I can save you a bunch of money. I'm going turbo so a BUNCH of my parts will go up for sale when I start the work. I'm going to part with the custom intake as well. This would save you a bunch of work.

If I have money when it all goes on sale I will definately buy your MAF. You've modded it to fit correctly right? How much are you thinking about selling it for right now? (ballpark)

 

[Jakee]

It fit's perfect.

 

[jah81592]

Also keep in mind the overdrive alternator and waterpump pulleys aren't necessary. You will get the most performance with just the crank pulley. Also in my previous statement if you remove the cats you will get a cel(check engine light). After you purchase the tuner I will turn the rear O2's off in the tunes. This will eliminate any potential check engine lights.

Me coming to your location isn't necessary but I would prefer it just to dial in perfect a/f ratios, not only that you are so close.-j

 

[Jakee]

In all honestly, It will probably be much easier on you to have James come up and tune you. I know this contridicts a statement I said previously.

The reasons why.
1. If you don't have a laptop.
2. If you don't have a wideband.
3. It takes time to learn how to get everything logging correctly. With James there, you can learn from him.
4. You're assured that everything is A-Okay.

Sometimes just having someone with you that's been there and done that comes in handy, and actually saves you time and money and I didn't consider all this in my previous statement.

I'm, without a doubt, having James come up and tune my ride when I'm done.

 

[Patton]

Also keep in mind the overdrive alternator and waterpump pulleys aren't necessary. You will get the most performance with just the crank pulley.

Wait, I don't understand. How is this possible?

Also in my previous statement if you remove the cats you will get a cel(check engine light).

My local exhaust shop gave me impression that they would take care of this, and that that problem is why the job is so expensive ($200). I had planned to buy the actual cats (probably magnaflow) myself to slice a little off the $200 pricetag. I still don't know how many cats I should remove/replace but we'll come to that later. AND plus I thought that the computer uses that information from those O2 sensors to do.... well something I don't know about yet.
In either case I guess I'll wait till I buy tuner to complete my exhaust. I speak as if this is in the near future but it'll take a lonnnnnng time, even to get that damned tuner. I like to research as if it'll happen soon, kind of takes the edge off my intense boredom . I wish I had the mechanical skills to do this crap myself.

 

[aldive]

Wait, I don't understand. How is this possible?

Do you under how UD and OD pullies work?

 

[Patton]

Do you under how UD and OD pullies work?

Well here is my theory. Correct me if I'm wrong, I usually am.
The crankshaft UD pulley is smaller in diameter that the stock crankshaft pulley, reducing the amount the engine has to turn all the OTHER pulleys in one engine revolution. Not only does it reduce the amount of horses going into turning those other pulleys by being smaller in diameter, it's also lighter, making it easier to turn in the first place. However, reducing the amount the alternator is turned per revolution of the engine reduces the amount it's charging your battery. Therefore, adding in the OD alternator pulley makes up for this by being larger in diameter, covering the ground being lost. The alternator OD pulley is also lighter, making it easier to turn.
My question is if I'm replacing my crankshaft pulley with a lighter, smaller one, how much difference would it make if I put a pulley on my alternator to put it back up to speed, it being lighter. The mere fact that it is lighter is apparently a pretty big deal.
I'm not even sure why I'm arguing this point. Can I not get some pulleys for my alternator and waterpump that are stock size but lighter? To go with my UD crankshaft pulley of course.

 

[aldive]

The crankshaft UD pulley is smaller in diameter that the stock crankshaft pulley, reducing the amount the engine has to turn all the OTHER pulleys in one engine revolution.

Correct.

Not only does it reduce the amount of horses going into turning those other pulleys by being smaller in diameter, it's also lighter, making it easier to turn in the first place.

It is indeed smaller in diameter, however, the ASP UDP/Ballancer is a bit heaver then the stock unit.

Therefore, adding in the OD alternator pulley makes up for this by being larger in diameter, covering the ground being lost.

Also correct. I had to add an OD alternator pulley on mine to get the charging back in line. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1406278#post1406278

The alternator OD pulley is also lighter, making it easier to turn.

I doubt it is any lighter. Don't get hung up on the weight issue here.

The mere fact that it is lighter is apparently a pretty big deal.
I'm not even sure why I'm arguing this point. Can I not get some pulleys for my alternator and waterpump that are stock size but lighter? To go with my UD crankshaft pulley of course.

Again, don't get hung up on the weight.

Good luck with your project.

 

[Patton]

Oh okay. I was under the impression that the weight of these new pulleys is one of their main selling points.

 

[aldive]

Oh okay. I was under the impression that the weight of these new pulleys is one of their main selling points.

Since the crank pulley on our trucks is not just a pulley but also a harmonic balancer combo unit, it is not lighter. However, on some other vehicles where the pulley is not part of the damper, weight might be a factor.

 

[Patton]

Since the crank pulley on our trucks is not just a pulley but also a harmonic balancer combo unit, it is not lighter. However, on some other vehicles where the pulley is not part of the damper, weight might be a factor.

Where is the harmonic balancer on other engines?
What about a lighter water pump pulley? Still not a big issue?