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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
what is the timing on the 4.0 cus id like to retard mine if possible when turboing it. yeah i saw the stroker kits but no point in doing that if im going to turbo charge the 4.0 whats the safest amount of boost you can run with no detonation. also im intending to run 3 step colder plugs. also how much does it run for the megasquirt system
as far as plugs im just running standard copper plugs in the oem heat range. A 4.0 can take 20 psi if you really want to push it that far. Its all up to the tune and time. Even with a good tune things can break. As far as the timing the only real way you can tune the timing is with a tuner or stand alone. Since theres not really and tuners like sct for the eec Iv stuff its up to a stand alone like MS. You can MS stuff at DIYAUTOTUNE,COM
what is the timing on the 4.0 cus id like to retard mine if possible when turboing it. yeah i saw the stroker kits but no point in doing that if im going to turbo charge the 4.0 whats the safest amount of boost you can run with no detonation. also im intending to run 3 step colder plugs. also how much does it run for the megasquirt system
Could you cheat a bit and hook up a pressure switch in place of the spout connector so that at a certain PSI it opens the circut and pulls a few degrees of timing?
if it pulled spout i belive the timing would retreat to 10* that would be way too low. You could maybe try that with the octane adjust plug. The adjust plug should pull 3*. Im just going to wait until I get the MS stuff. i dont get any detonation at 5 psi just when i try and pull it higher
ok where is the spout connector and octane adjust plug yeah im guessing we run what 22 timing so jumping to 10 would be bad if it was a 4 banger shure. dunno can always try it only thing it would do is rich out like mad. also got a question i did the 3 inch pvc intake and swapped my maf sensor into the larger maf housing off the 4.0 ohc after i switched the maf housing out i started having normal driving studders but under wot this thing moves like a bat out of hell. anyone got ay idea on how to compensate. im guessing its not running enough fuel
if you retarded the timing like that it would probally have terrible performance. EGTs would be elevated by the unburnt fuel burning in the exhaust. Performance would be horrible, lacking power, overheating......You can try but dont be suprised to find terrible performance.
The spout is on the EDIS module behind the headlight and the octane adjust plug is near the test port for the ecu behind the airbox area
You may want a wideband if you can afford it to check the AFRs AEM makes a good one and can be found on ebay alot for around 200$
if it pulled spout i belive the timing would retreat to 10* that would be way too low. You could maybe try that with the octane adjust plug. The adjust plug should pull 3*. Im just going to wait until I get the MS stuff. i dont get any detonation at 5 psi just when i try and pull it higher
when you said this:"i dont get any detonation at 5 psi just when i try and pull it higher"
can you go WOT at 5psi and not have any detonation happening, oh and also are you still running open loop?
yeah i found the diagram for the spout its number 3 pin on the plug i was wondering if maybe i could just put a resistor inline with the wire or maybe a diode or potentiometer that way i can adjust it but also how bad does yours ping at 15 if its not too bad then ill just do the octane adjust and some colder plugs. chryslers had bad knock and stuff at 15 and usually people just dropped the plug temp and it solved it im basically going to run the same t3 on yours but do the exhaust slightly different for more flow also no cat or muffler
yeah i found the diagram for the spout its number 3 pin on the plug i was wondering if maybe i could just put a resistor inline with the wire or maybe a diode or potentiometer that way i can adjust it but also how bad does yours ping at 15 if its not too bad then ill just do the octane adjust and some colder plugs. chryslers had bad knock and stuff at 15 and usually people just dropped the plug temp and it solved it im basically going to run the same t3 on yours but do the exhaust slightly different for more flow also no cat or muffler
my truck didnt ping that hard even when i was heavy into the throttle at 15 psi. But it did rattle a little depending on load. it never pings when i have the boost turned down to 5psi and thats the plan until i get a wideband someday. My truck is stuck in open loop as i dont have the O2 sensor hooked up. The MAF is the only thing compinsating for the fuel and Im putting 21#ers in to help richen the AFR. My exhaust is also free flowing it comes off the turbo into a 2.5" pipe then expands to 3" then into 3.5" and dumps on the passenger side right below the radiator.
Heres the current progress on the truck headgaskets are almost done...
how far can you take the boost up without pinging. also i recently installed mymaf sensor into the larger 4.0 ohc housing now it seems likeat idle im idling at like 700 rpms when i was oiginally idling at like 450 also under driving normal i get studder wot i get mad power tho. and lately my idlle after driving just seemslike it wont drop even in neutral sound like the ais to anyone?
im just letting the wastegate open at 5 psi. For now until I have some good tuning Im just going to keep the boost on a conservative level. As for changing MAF housings that can throw the AFRs way off. Without a wideband O2 you woulnt be able to tell if it leaned the motor out or what. I desperatly need a wideband. If you want to keep the motor together i would get a wideband so you can track the changes you make and help you make good changes.
the AF gauges that tap into your narrow band O2 sensors are useless. There nothing but a light show. You need a real wideband to get actual results. The AEM UEGOs go for about 200$ on ebay there a widley used wideband. under boost AFR should be around 11:1-12:1.
the AF gauges that tap into your narrow band O2 sensors are useless. There nothing but a light show. You need a real wideband to get actual results. The AEM UEGOs go for about 200$ on ebay there a widley used wideband. under boost AFR should be around 11:1-12:1.
wow 12 to 1 is alot. so far ive got anything over 5 psi knocks. also im going to switch over to the 4.0 ohc maf sensor i found out y my truck is running rough with the ohv maf sensor in the ohc housing i got looking at the sensors and the wires on the ohv that run between the 4 prongs on the sensor are much larger then the ohc im guessing so it picks up better in the restrictive housing. so ill switch the ohc sensor back in and solder the clip to match. also how the heck am i supposed to tell what goes on with the wideband. all i see is a single alert light. im guessing i hook a laptop up to it and drive the car to see what im running
wow 12 to 1 is alot. so far ive got anything over 5 psi knocks. also im going to switch over to the 4.0 ohc maf sensor i found out y my truck is running rough with the ohv maf sensor in the ohc housing i got looking at the sensors and the wires on the ohv that run between the 4 prongs on the sensor are much larger then the ohc im guessing so it picks up better in the restrictive housing. so ill switch the ohc sensor back in and solder the clip to match. also how the heck am i supposed to tell what goes on with the wideband. all i see is a single alert light. im guessing i hook a laptop up to it and drive the car to see what im running
o i didnt relise u were only running the 21 lbs injectors ive got the red tops in mine what do they run at. also where is the knock sensor on the truck. also i figured after i boost this thing i might just run a boost actuated sensor to disconnect the link and drop it 3 degrees under 1 psi. also might get a rising rate regulator so i can adjust the fuel pressure. also i think im going to invest in a wideband i want to get a regular o2 gauge for now just to see what the hell this thing is running at n/a and compare it to stock so i can adjust my air fuel with my minor mods to be running what it normally would. then ill go over everything again once i have the 50 trim on here. also thinking of grabbing a new set of heads. i forget where i could get them but they were 5 or 6 hundred for the set. also anyone know what the knock sensor voltage is
the narrow band cheapy AF gauges are a waste of money they are just a light show for looks. as far as the knock sensor there isnt one. unless theres one on the 93 that i dont know about. red tops are 19#ers
