My new axle (and build-up)

[dreamr]

but w/o the front Abs sensor, the computer will have no way of knowing how fast the vehicle is moving.. i forgot who did the SAS to his Ranger from Michigan but this was one of the problems he ran into with his a wago d44.

Actually the computer uses three different readings to determine speed. The ABS sensors and the VSS in the rear diff play in to the speedo reading. I should have no speedo concerns without the front ABS sensors, just No ABS.

I wouldnt splice the abs sensor. If the tones are different you will throw the abs into a fit and it will feel like stopping on gravel all the time. Just leave it out. ABS is for those who dont know how to stop anyway

That is my fear, but.........
Well somewhere I read about a ranger swapping a newer D30 under and it worked for him. The issue is I can't find the thread on pirate again to read all the details. More than likely it is a waste of my time, but ABS has saved my but on our always wet roads a couple times when some foolish city driver cuts you off with an inch to spare in a downpour. Hmm.. I'll have to go digging for that thread, though I imagine you are right, and it won't work for me.

JrGaylor thanks for the gearing lead I'll keep it in mind when I get to that point!

 

[IZwack]

Actually the computer uses three different readings to determine speed. The ABS sensors and the VSS in the rear diff play in to the speedo reading. I should have no speedo concerns without the front ABS sensors, just No ABS.

ah fantastic! thanks

 

[dreamr]

ah fantastic! thanks

That may be different for pre-97 explorers though as they used a slightly different VSS set-up. It should still be OK though as the VSS is within the transfer case. Jefe maybe will chime in and give a bit better info though, as I am getting this from his SAS thread I believe. Though at this point thay have all blended together in my mind.

 

[IZwack]

It should still be OK though as the VSS is within the transfer case.

eeep my current 1354 has NO sensors what so ever in it.. but my backup one however does on the rear output.

 

[dreamr]

eeep my current 1354 has NO sensors what so ever in it.. but my backup one however does on the rear output.

You have a 98 though correct?

Your VSS should be in the rear diff. The sensors in the T-case are called Hall-Effect sensors and provide the control-trac system with drive-shaft speed information so it can determine when to engage the front driveshaft clutches. There is one that is obvious and the other is hidden behind the shift motor. Given there are none in the 1354 to my knowledge, I just put that last bit in there as a way of explanation.

 

[Jefe]

. . .wow ok lets get this all straight

VSS (speedo): On 91-97 the VSS is in the t-case (or tranny for 2wd). In 98+ they did away with the separate sensor. It is fed from the ABS module, and is given signal when at least one of the 3 ABS sensors is hooked up. I currently have just the rear ABS sensor hooked up and it works fine like that. The 4405's 2 small hall sensors are ONLY used for T-case control. (note that pre 98 4405's have the 2 hall sensors, and the VSS sensor)

ABS: I have told people that the jeep ABS sensors may or may not work. If the ring has the same number of teeth as the stock ring, and the sensors are similar in voltage requirement and output then it should work fine. I never tested it because I had a TJ D30 which didn't have ABS. I do not run ABS because I really don't like it, and ever since I put on 33's it did not act right. Once you've got that much rubber its pretty hard to lock up the tires on dry ground anyway. I know those who have to deal with heavy rain and ice would still like ABS, but have yet to see anyone do a SAS with functional ABS.

 

[IZwack]

!!!

i wasnt too bothered if i lost the ABS either, but i was kinda worried after reading shonuff82's SAS Project thread.. he said something about his tranny not knowing when to shift after the SAS

but thanks for clearing this up JEFE!

i guess we could unplug both sensors from plug under the headlights and see what happens

 

[Jefe]

i wasnt too bothered if i lost the ABS either, but i was kinda worried after reading shonuff82's SAS Project thread.. he said something about his tranny not knowing when to shift after the SAS

Read the rest of the thread
When his rear end was regeared the ABS ring wasn't put back in, so he didn't have VSS at all, which made his trans act strangly.

BTW, I like your mug shot

 

[IZwack]

Read the rest of the thread BTW, I like your mug shot

AHAH NO! you have no PROOF of anything!!!

 

[dreamr]

Thanks for Chiming back in Jefe. At least my info was pretty much correct though confusing as it was spread out over several posts

Back on my project. I actually spent a few hours tonight fighting the rusty bolts. What a pain in the rear. Finally I got the last end link to bust free, Damn rust!!!!!!!!!

I removed all of the brake components and cleaned them up a bit. The calipers will likely need a rebuild, but the rotors should be salvageable with a bit of attention and a turning at the local Shucks.

Control arms are all removed but for one that is kinda my support brace to keep it from twisting on the jackstands, at least the bolt is broke loose.

The steering setup and trackbar have all finally popped free. The jointwhere the two pieces of the steering come together needs replaced as do the tierod ends. But at least it is all off to work on seperately and paint.

I started pulling the hub assemblies but finally got irritated and went wheeling with the Traxxas. The hubs are all pretty much GLUED together with rust and crud. The bolts on one side came out, but not the other. The assembly itself won't budge though. Makes me wonder if I missed something, but tomorrow after fishing/hiking is soon enough to look into that mess.

Basicly the housing is mostly free of it's attachments! I still need to get those hub assemblies off, remove the knuckles, and pull the axle shafts then it is time for some serious scrubbing/sanding and painting. After that I get to start on rebuilding the insides of that nifty housing and start buying new parts to bolt back on

 

[dreamr]

I just realized that I should have just added to this thread rather than starting a new one but...................well I am a fool most days

Anyway I am still fighting the damn bearing assemblies and ran into a little glitch. Follow ther link to see what I am talking about. Any Advice?????????

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136288

 

[dreamr]

Cool
Everything is finally stripped down and the above post has been dealt with. I still have to get the passenger side knuckle off, but that is more a matter of motivation than anything.

Now it is time to start sanding and painting

If anyone is still following this thread.........
Can you hook me up with a few links for good discount Jeep parts?

I prefer to upgrade as much as possible as I go.
So far I am going to need to replace.
Hub/bearings
All of the joints (knuckles,tierods, draglink to tierod, etc......)
Axle shafts (They could be reused but I would rather have new)
Axle u-joints if they don't come with the shafts
All seals (Basicly all internals)
Gears (4.56)
and likely a selectable locker.
Hmm I am sure I missed a bit but............

I have a few sites book marked, but thought y'all might know of others.
This is going to cost a bit so I want to get started slowly over the summer to avoid any one time lump sums.

I also need to start aquiring swap parts.
I am not positive on the length of springs (thinking 5.5 and adjust the buckets as needed) or shocks, but I would like to start collecting the rest of the stuff as I can.

I am hoping that I can re-use the Jeep steering components (tierod and draglink to save a couple bucks) As well as reusing the calipers and rotors.

A question for the rear though. If money was not the concern which would be the best set-up for a daily driven rig that may see a lot more HP and Torque in the future? SOA or leaving it SUA with a good lifted leaf pack in the 6-7" range? I am nervous about axle wrap If I swap in a better engine or rebuild this one unnaturally aspirated in a few years.

And for my last request.........
I have read numerous swap threads on the internet, but would love a few good pictures of peoples coil sprung set-ups to start working with. Basicly How did you mount everything (links, spring buckets, trackbar, shock mounts, etc......)

 

[dreamr]

Anybody/ Or are you all just ignoring me

 

[dreamr]

Hehe Painting starts tomorrow evening. Now come on somebody's gotta have some good parts leads for me as well as a couple answers to questions posted above. Don't ya.......................

 

[jrgaylor]

Hehe Painting starts tomorrow evening. Now come on somebody's gotta have some good parts leads for me as well as a couple answers to questions posted above. Don't ya.......................

I can hook you up with a Adj.tracbar and coil springs and a steering gear box, I will give you a good price.
unless you want to go to alloy axles I would just use a good gear set,selectable locker and if they need replaced,replace your u-joints with 760 series joints, and if the axle has vacuum dissconnects get the cable operating set up.

 

[dreamr]

I can hook you up with a Adj.tracbar and coil springs and a steering gear box, I will give you a good price.
unless you want to go to alloy axles I would just use a good gear set,selectable locker and if they need replaced,replace your u-joints with 760 series joints, and if the axle has vacuum dissconnects get the cable operating set up.

Thanx Joe. I will probably take you up on that come pay day if I have some cash left.

I will be swapping out the shafts. These are OK but I figure If I am rebuilding it I may as well make it all new. I just discovered the 760 joints and will be doing exactly that thanks for the pointer.

As to gears and locker. I would like to match it to the rear with Yukon 4.56's and an Eaton e-locker. However I have not looked to see if Eaton makes a locker for the D30 yet. Thankfully I was able to find a non-vacuum axle

What are your feeling on the SOA vs custom leaf packs debate for the rear. Money aside and looking at general functionality.

 

[boominXplorer]

What are your feeling on the SOA vs custom leaf packs debate for the rear. Money aside and looking at general functionality.

SOA for sure. Less crap to get hung up on

 

[bmxking5]

Yeah, definitely SOA.

 

[ExplorerDMB]

SOA - ground clearance is nice to have. Mine is still SUA and I don't like it - but it's best for the amount of lift I have.

-Drew

 

[dreamr]

Thanks for the comments.
I am leaning toward the SOA and it seems y'all agree.
So what are peoples thoughts on the potential for axle wrap with the SOA?