New front end coming soon

[techieman33]

Well, I didn't want the CV to come apart or just hang there, so I was just thinking it would be easier to get the lower control arm in place and then slide the axle in. Plus, then it's not in the way while I wrestle the lower control arm.

yeah, leave the cv out until then end after everything is back in place, and put it in right before you reconnect the upper control arm and spindle, it will be much easier to work on. But I would want the inner axle in the diff to help keep anything from getting in there.

 

[rizzjc]

Question: Is there a need to replace the pads on the top of the torsion bar? It looks like it use to just be a thick rubber pad, but there's a hole worn in it. Where could I get these, or what could I substitute? Or does it even matter?

 

[Turdle]

Joe, on yours is it a black rubber on the torsion bar itself, or is it a green color pad in the torsion bar bracket which you refer to?

 

[rizzjc]

Joe, on yours is it a black rubber on the torsion bar itself, or is it a green color pad in the torsion bar bracket which you refer to?

Well, after 12 years, and 170k miles, it's kinda hard to tell. It appears that it was black rubber, glued to the torsion bar, like so:

Here it is from the back side:

 

[rizzjc]

New CV axle and inner shaft, ready to go in:

Axle seal:

Old and new hubs:

Made by Precision Components. It appears very well made, so hopefully it was a good deal for $99.

Someone did this writeup once, where they loaded the hub up with anti-seize. I didn't really have any trouble getting the hub out, and figure that anti-seize will collect dirt, so I just put it back together dry.

 

[Turdle]

ok, here is a trick

Wrap the splines with a piece of notebook paper-then slip the axle in until the paper is half way through the seal. Loosen your grip on the paper enough to allow the axle to side in while keeping the paper in place. Once the splines are clear of the seal area, remove the paper

The splines are razor sharp, and the paper sleeve will help to protect the seal from getting cut

As far as the torsion bar pads--I think you need to either get new bars--or try to wedge a piece of rubber in there for a pad.

That surface will move ever so slightly and probably be a load creak without a isolator of some sort.

Idea--a chunk of silicone hose ????

 

[rizzjc]

OK, the adjuster comes off I guess. $50 is a bit steep for that though! Yikes! I hope that at least includes the bolt too, and is a PAIR.

A new pad for cheap sounds better. Silicone hose? The picture in my head isn't of a very meaty piece of material. And the bolts - what should I put on them, short of buying a new special bolt with special goo on it?

 

[rizzjc]

Guess I should have planned a little better at the start, as far as the parts list goes. I had to order the sway bar bushing yesterday, and got them today, but forgot about the camber adjusters. Guess I'll rebuild with the old part (one side has already been replaced), and worry about it later. Gotta get this back together, and move on to the other side.

 

[CDW6212R]

I meant to mention those isolator pads. You should see about buying new adjuster keys, the 95-97's have a kevlar pad attached to the keys. Those wear out over time, and they do make a lot of noise eventually. I don't know what they cost, but it's unlikely that anyone stocks them. The 98-01's have an improved design, they have an isolator pad separate, located up against the frame/pocket.

 

[rizzjc]

Thanks Don. That definitely looks a little different from mine. I'm going to get everything back together, go sign up for a 5-year alignment deal at one of the local tire shops, and then if I need to cam adjusters or torsion adjuster, I'll take care of it later. I can do both without taking everything apart.

 

[rizzjc]

Ooh, perty!

All buttoned up on the passenger side. 'Course, I forgot to grease the upper ball joint, and forgot to put the grease fitting on the tie rod end.

Onto the driver side, the torsion bar came off in about 5 minutes this time, and then I got stuck on the tie rod end locking nut. It won't budge. Sprayed it down, and need to try finding a 21mm open-end wrench. I had to use an adjustable on the other side, but it's gonna chew this one up.

 

[CDW6212R]

Try a socket, that should fit. When finished let us know how it handles. I have a spare anti-sway bar from my 98, since I upgraded to a 1.5" bar. The 95-01 is hollow and mounts to the vertical part of the frame. I hear that the bar can be mounted under the frame as the 98-01's are. If you go off roading you might want to stay with the softer bar though.

 

[rizzjc]

The nut tightens down against the TRE, on the shaft. Need to get it with an open-end wrench.

No off-roading for me. I learned my lesson on that one, without even trying. Until I have another daily driver (not my 17-year old Lexus SC400), then I'd consider it, but right now this truck is to get me back and forth to work, and towing on the weekends.

I'm pretty sure that when I'm done, I'll be reading the "Alignment 101" thread in depth, so I can get it close before going to a shop. Then it's off to the tire shop (maybe the same shop, if they give me a good enough deal).

 

[rizzjc]

Well, I was supposed to be on the home stretch. Not so much. I soaked the TRE nut with PB last night, and it still won't budge. I don't have an open-end wrench large enough , so the nut is getting chewed up by the adjustable wrench. Been trying backing the nut off, and just breaking the end free. Nothing. I guess I gotta try heat ... somewhere. This sucks. Other side came off, no problem. I guess if I totally chew up the whole end, I'll be doing both ends. This sucks!

On a side note, it would be REALLY helpful if Ford could have made a choice between SAE and metric. I mean, REALLY nice. There are only two choices, pick one. This is not the time to spread the wealth. Seriously.
</rant>

 

[storlied]

I've run into this here and there... if you don't have any cutting tools... you can try what I've been doing everytime I run into a bolt that strips or something... drill around it until you can just break it off... once that's out of the way hit the TRE upward outta the knuckle.


Btw, I just used a socket without any problems with my TRE nuts. This happens though.. sadly..

 

[rizzjc]

It's not the connection to the knuckle. That is already out. It's the nut that holds the out tie rod to the inner. I might have to cut the nut off, but it'll likely mean replacing the inner as well. I could probably do it very carefully with several cutoff blades on my dremel.

 

[ThePhoenix]

why is your shock two different color?

 

[rizzjc]

They are Bilsteins. The shock is yellow. The blue is a rubber dust shield, that sits on top. It's not really a "boot" as it is opened at the bottom. All Bilstein shocks are this color.

 

[rizzjc]

Finally got that stinking nut off! Hopefully NOW it'll be smooth sailing, if my wife lets me work on it tonight.

 

[rizzjc]

Yeah!


Boo!


HELP!

So, without removing all of my brake lines and fuel lines, how the heck am I supposed to get that bolt out?! :scratch:

I did come across my worst ball joint of the 4. Driver side upper is really bad. Now to get the arm out.

Looks like I am also going to have to do the axle seal on this side. Anything I have to look out for with that bearing that is directly behind the seal?