Next project vehicle?

[2000StreetRod]

I prefer to have the additional cooling capacity of both ATF coolers (like my Sport) rather than rely on just the Super Duty cooler. If the 5R55W external cooling loop is thermostatically controlled like my 5R55E then I don't have to worry about over cooling. Hopefully, the stock radiator has adequate cooling for the engine and ATF. My Sport radiator had marginal cooling capacity with the stock 1 inch thick single row core. After replacing it with one for a 1997 with a 2 inch thick double row core my engine cooling issues were solved.

 

[2000StreetRod]

This morning I had to drive across town (about 40 minutes in traffic each way) to take my parrot to the veterinarian. The TFT increased to a maximum varying around 170 deg. F. even though the ambient temperature was about 78 deg. F.

The fitting that connects the degas bottle lower hose to the hose that is routed under the radiator from the bottom left is 1 inch dia.

I need to find a 1 inch dia. T fitting with a 5/8 inch dia. side port.

So far I haven't found one. I may have to get one fabricated.

Edit: I found one: Kat's heater P/N KAT-28113. Only $7 plus $2 for shipping.

According to an online discount auto parts store the Centennial lower radiator hose has an inside dia. of 1.5 inches which I need to confirm. Then I just need to find a 1.5"x1.5"x5/8" T fitting or get one fabricated.

Edit: I measured the outside diameter of the port on the oil filter/thermostat adapter that connects to the lower radiator hose to be 1.5 inches. I ordered another Kat's heater adapter with 1.5 inch dia. ends and a 5/8 inch dia. side port (Kat's P/N 28115 Lower Radiator Hose Connector) for $8 plus $2 shipping. I thought these Kat's connectors were metal but I found another supplier that states they are made of plastic. Hopefully their ratings exceed 160 deg. F. and 20 psi and will be adequate.

 

[2000StreetRod]

After driving about 2.5 hours in city traffic, in residential areas, and on country roads I've concluded that the stock ATF cooling is adequate for light throttle acceleration when the ambient temperature is 78 deg. F. By watching the TFT on my Scan Gauge II it looks like it takes about 20 minutes of normal driving before the external cooling loop valve opens at about 170 deg. F. Then the temperature fluctuates between 161 and 170 deg. F. Driving with the A/C on or off did not seem to change the fluctuation range. Nor did sitting at a traffic light vs cruising at 40 mph. After my meals were all delivered I performed a moderate acceleration from 0 to 50 mph and the TFT rapidly climbed to 173 deg. F. but dropped back to 170 deg. F. when I released the accelerator pedal. I suspect that a hot day, pulling a trailer or aggressive driving would result in TFTs exceeding 180 deg. F. I want to limit the max TFT to that of the control valve which appears to be 170 deg. F. Many aftermarket shift kits contain instructions (and in some cases parts) to defeat the thermostatic control of the external cooling loop because with age the valve can stick preventing external cooling. Since I don't use full synthetic ATF, I prefer to have the transmission operate within its designed optimum temperature range. Eventually I will permanently mount my Scan Gauge II so I can make sure the external cooling loop valve remains functional.

 

[CDW6212R]

I have an oil thermostatic valve made for 180 or so opening temp, and a marine thermostat I'm going to try to swap into the unit. I learned that the control component is the same as most thermostats use. So I found a marine t-stat that I think is a 140 or 145* setting. I just need to figure out how to unscrew the cover of the bypass valve assembly, it's an extremely thin, two flat sides thing. If that will work, I'd make a couple more of them for my other vehicles, to keep the ATF near 150 degrees.

 

[2000StreetRod]

I'm approaching the point in engine assembly that I will soon need to install the heater outlet tube that goes under the intake manifold in the valley between the heads. For the first time since purchasing my Centennial I removed the appearance cover to inspect under it. There is a collection of hoses, tubes and wiring harnesses that connect components.

One of my goals associated with installing the DOHC V8 is to simplify the configuration without losing any basic functions. The Explorer EGR valve receives engine coolant via hose 1 and returns coolant via hose 2 that is connected to a nipple on the heater outlet tube. Neither the Aviator nor the Mach 1 EGR valves utilize engine coolant. However, the Aviator PCV valve utilizes engine coolant. Since upstate South Carolina experiences neither extreme summers nor extreme winters I will not utilize engine coolant for the EGR valve or the PCV valve. I will cap the PCV valve coolant supply nipple on the Aviator coolant bypass assembly I purchased. I will purchase a new heater outlet tube for a 2003 Marauder.

It has no EGR valve nipple and is designed to mount with the DOHC V8 engine. It only costs $20 plus shipping from Rock Auto.

 

[2000StreetRod]

I documented the process of pulling the engine which is documented in the following thread: 2003 Centennial 4.6L Engine Removal
Removing the top two transmission to engine bolts was difficult due to limited access. I ended up removing the intake manifold. Raising the engine enough to clear the motor mounts was another problem. I did not remove the A/C manifold at the firewall which interfered with the passenger side valve cover. I ended up removing the driver side engine mount bracket from the block and rotating the engine clockwise to get the passenger side mount stud to clear the frame seat. Anyway, I finally got the engine out.

I was planning to replace the torque converter since the odometer reading is about 185K and the trans to engine bolts were so difficult to remove. However, I was pleasantly surprised when I saw the warranty date sticker on the torque converter is 8/17/16.

I've decided not to replace the torque converter since it working fine just before pulling the engine. Now I have to find a flexplate for my 8 bolt crankshaft with a bolt pattern that matches the 4 bolt torque converter adapter.

 

[87350gta]

I must have missed it, how did you get an 8-bolt crank? I ran into the same issue. Be careful with flexplates. If you use an non explorer flexplate, you will need a non explorer starter. They have a specific ring gear depth that is different from other fords. I have heard that you can machine down the torque converter plate slitghy and it will fit into a v10 super duty flex plate. Or you can do what I did and cut the center out of an 8-bolt flexplate and weld it to the explorer flexplate. Then redrill the 6 bolts, 2 will match up.

 

[2000StreetRod]

I ordered a 6 bolt crank but Eagle shipped me an 8 bolt crank. Probably because of the forged rods and pistons. Since it took so long for them to ship (waiting on the rod bolts) I decided not to return the crank. I think that I need a ring gear with 164 teeth but haven't counted the teeth yet to be sure. I didn't know there were different tooth depths. So far I've found three possible 4.6L 8 bolt crank flexplates. One is the Hays 12-071 for 4 bolt Ford torque converters with 11.5 inch bolt pattern. Another is the PRW Industries 1828111 with a Ford/GM dual bolt pattern. I don't know if the 4R70W torque converter has the same bolt pattern as the adapter for the 5R55S. JEGS sells a 4.6L 8 bolt crank flexplate P/N 601094 with 164 teeth that mates with Powerglide, TH350 and TH400 11.5 inch bolt pattern. It might be possible to drill it for a Ford torque converter if the others don't fit.

 

[2000StreetRod]

I needed the ability to maneuver the stock engine without using the crane in order to have space to work so I purchased an 18 in. x 30 in. hardwood dolly from Harbor Freight Tools for about $16.

It's rated at 1,000 pounds but I assume that's with the weight on the padded cross boards above the swivel wheels. So I screwed 1x4 inch boards to the top of the side boards and another under one cross board. Then I nailed two lengths of 2x4 inch boards to the top of the reinforced end leaving a several inch gap for the oil pan shape for the drain plug. Then I nailed next to that 2x4 another one spanning the side rails. I also nailed a 4x4 inch post cut to 17.5 inches at about the mid point of the dolly. I installed two 2x4 inch boards on top of the 4x4. The dolly seems to be holding up to the weight of the engine and is fairly easy to maneuver.

I'll tie the exhaust manifolds to the dolly sides to keep the engine from tilting. Then I'll remove the bolts that attach the passenger side motor mount bracket to the block.

 

[2000StreetRod]

I ordered the Hays 12-071 flexplate from Summit and it arrived yesterday. It wasn't what I expected.

I checked the part number and the label shows Hays 12-071 but it was manufactured by PRW Industries. I suspect it is the PRW Industries 1828111 with a Ford/GM dual bolt pattern. The pairs of holes have 11.5 inch spacing, there are 164 teeth and the outer diameter of the ring gear is the same as my stock ring gear. The crankshaft bolt spacing is 3 inches same as stock and my 8 bolt crank. I test fit the flexplate on the torque converter adapter and it is a good fit.

At first I thought the flexplate was warped a little because it rocked on the adapter. But after removing the flexplate, then rotating it 90 degrees it still rocked so the adapter is warped. I'm not going to worry about it.

I also ordered the ARP 254-2901 flexplate bolts and they arrived yesterday. I'm concerned about the ARP crankshaft bolts being too long. I installed one of the bolts in my new crankshaft without the flexplate and screwed it in until it bottomed out. I measured the space between the bolt face and the crankshaft and compared that to the thickness of the flexplate. It appears that the space is greater than the thickness of the flexplate. I confirmed that I had flexplate bolts instead of flywheel bolts and measured the length from face to end as 0.8 inches as specified. I'm wondering if Eagle assumed that all of their 8 bolts cranks would use flywheels and didn't drill the holes in the crank deep enough. ARP strongly states to not use washers with their bolts. I'll know more when the engine is off the stand and on the crane. Then I can carefully check that the bolts are not bottoming with the flexplate installed. I probably should have purchased 8 of the Ford stock bolts to avoid this issue.

The shop manual recommends replacing the motor mounts when replacing an engine so I ordered a pair which arrived today.

I'm glad I did because the original passenger side mount appeared to be in good shape but the original driver side mount had the rubber separated from the metal.

I hope the weather warms up soon so I can paint the original motor mount brackets that attach to the block.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Since I did not remove the A/C manifold at the firewall I could not lift the engine enough to clear the mounts. I ended up bending the oil dipstick housing so I could remove it and then detaching the driver side engine mounting bracket from the block. Then I was able to rotate the engine clockwise using the load leveler until the passenger side mount cleared the mount seat on the frame. I plan to install the engine with both mount brackets detached from the block so it will be easier to align the crankshaft axis with the transmission input shaft axis. My Aviator engine did not have mounting brackets and I planned to use the Explorer brackets. Unfortunately, the DOHC oil dipstick I purchased is too close to the block to clear the engine mounting bracket. The DOHC dipstick housing mounts to one of the valve cover studs.

I decided I preferred the Explorer dipstick since it is shorter and mounts to the head. Unfortunately, the different exhaust manifold prevents the Explorer dipstick housing from being installed or extracted even though there is plenty of clearance when installed.

The limited opening in the head restricts lateral movement.

And as the housing is raised it interferes with the engine mounting bracket.

Rather than attempt to bend the housing more I decided to file a notch in the bracket deep enough to allow 2 inches of the housing below the seat to be exposed.

Then I cut off the housing at 2 inches.

 

[CDW6212R]

That's good engineering, well done for thinking through that.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Even though I have much to do before installing the engine I went ahead and installed the engine mounts and brackets.

The brackets are loosely installed to allow for alignment with the block.

 

[2000StreetRod]

I cleaned up the SOHC coolant/filter adapter and installed it on the DOHC.

I also installed the Trans Dapt 1027 spin on by pass adapter for the remote filter and preluber.

 

[2000StreetRod]

I finally got around to drilling out the passenger side exhaust manifold shield broken bolt, tapping the hole and mounting the exhaust manifold and shield.

I used anti-seize compound on the new shield mounting bolts.

I purchased a new cylinder head temperature sensor (BWD WT5059).

It came with thread sealant applied. I needed a deep well socket to install it.

 

[2000StreetRod]

The Explorer heater control valve assembly appears to be compatible with the DOHC heads after a little minor bending of the support bracket.

I may need to find a different hose to connect the valve assembly to the firewall inlet tube.

I cleaned up the Explorer spacer plate a little and then positioned it.

The flexplate has a label on one side marked engine side. Care must be exercised when installing the flexplate bolts since the mounting holes are only a few thousands larger than the bolts. First I test fit bolts into all of the holes without the flexplate in position. Then I removed all of the bolts and positioned the flexplate on the crankshaft flange holding in position with one hand while starting a bolt at the top with my other hand screwing the bolt in just enough to keep the flexplate from slipping off of the flange. Then I attempted to start bolts in each of the remaining 7 holes. One bolt didn't want to start due to binding even though I could rotate the flexplate a degree or so in either direction. So I removed all of the bolts and rotated the flexplate one hole position. Once I was able to start all of the bolts I removed one of them, applied thread lock to the bolt threads, ARP lubricant to the bolt face and then screwed that bolt in until the face was about 1/8 inch from the flexplate. I repeated the process with the remaining 7 bolts. Then I hand tightened all of the bolts and used a 0.001 inch feeler gauge to make there was no clearance between the bolt face and the flexplate indicating the bolt had bottomed out. Then I tightened the bolts in a cris/cross pattern at 15 lb-ft intervals until 60 lb-ft and then to 70 lb-ft.

The flexplate seems to fit fine on the crankshaft.

 

[CDW6212R]

So Ford is still doing that, the flexplate holes are not equally spaced, and it only goes on the crank in one position. It's a cute puzzle if you know what's going on.

 

[4pointslow]

You could temporarily install the starter to the spacer plate, and then have it crank the engine over to make sure it will engage correctly.
That is if you are concerned that it might not align up as it should.
Tom from supersix motorsports had me do that to check compression, and I also found it good for priming the oil system but you probably will have your own priming system on the oil.

 

[2000StreetRod]

I had a pair of turnbuckles on hand so I incorporated them to allow adjustment of the fore-to-aft tilt when installing the engine.

They make it easier since I won't have a human helper to hold the engine at the correct tilt while starting and tightening the lower 2 trans to engine bolts.

 

[CDW6212R]

Okay Dale, but that's what that tilt device you have there now, between the two heads? The hard part is finding good spots to mount chains to, and not damaging engine parts by the chain pressing on them. I don't what works best for modular engines, old types usually have big head bolts or a couple of exhaust manifold bolts to use.