OK, now I have stroke, but how do I balance it? Harmonic balancer issues

This is going to be a big stumbling block for a few people

The stock balance for a 5.0 explorer engine is 50z in

A stroker engine will require a 28 oz in balance--

so a flexplate and harmonic balancer switch is needed.
The flexplates are out there, but the explorer Harmonic balancer-pulley-dis trigger is all one unique unit for explorers--
When I purchased my stroker kit from Coast High-they found me one I assure you. However, even with my receipt ( no part number) they have no idea what I am referring to--

My thoughts--can material be removed from the stock balancer ( by machine shop of course) to work with the new balance weight?
Also-for thought--the 96-98 mustang pulley looks awful close---

I might add, my balancer did come with SFI certification--this is another consideration--


http://www.sfifoundation.com/about.html

 

[CougarX]

So I double checked last night and there is definitely no material removed from my harmonic balancer. I can't find any pics of the crank during the build but if i remember correctly there were quite a few holes drilled in the very front counterweight of the crank to get the weight down. So it is possible with a stock 50az harmonic balancer and a 28oz mustang flywheel/flexplate as long as you don't mind removing more then normal from your crank, which shouldn't' have any adverse affects.

 

[Turdle]

Correct they make a forged stroker crank but they don't offer a forged crank rotating assembly. Just a cast crank. I know, I've looked at their online catalog.

Dan-
I have scat h-beam rods--and billet crank.

rotating assembly is rods and crank. Isn't it?

 

[Dan Whitaker]

Dan-
I have scat h-beam rods--and billet crank.

rotating assembly is rods and crank. Isn't it?

What Scat is calling a rotating assy is crank, rods, pistons & rings. Everything can be bought seperate.

I'm really starting to think it's not worth the money and hassle of builing a stroker engine.

$1900 for machine work
$1500-$1700 for crank, rods, pistons, rings
$1200-$1500 for heads
$500-$700 for cam lifters timing chain
$650 for headers

On the high end that totals $6450 and that does not include fuel pump injectors and other misc parts. Hell this could run $10,000 by the time it's said & done

The Mounty just is not worth sinking that kind of money into.

 

[CougarX]

You don't have to go all the way like that either though. JT has a super nice engine, don't get me wrong, but its almost overbuilt just for a daily driver naturally aspirated motor (sorry JT). My 347 cost maybe 3000 all together and that is including the injectors, headers I just bought, as well as new water pump and starter, FPR, etc. I did all the work except for the machining. Granted, I used my stock heads for now, but they work just fine.

You can always spend more money, but once you get to a certain power level then just a few more horsepower starts costing a lot more dollars. If you don't plan on running nitrous or more than 6-7psi of boost then you don't need the forged/billet crank, h-beam rods, etc. You can get by much cheaper as long as you plan on staying N/A. A mild 347 has enough power and torque compared to a stock 302 that most people won't need a power adder on top of it. I know its always safer to overbuild, and can save money if you ever want to add more power, but if it's the difference between doing it or not doing it there is always a middle ground.

Just my $0.02

 

[Dan Whitaker]

With 195,000 miles even at $5000 I don't know if I can justify it because I'm going to need a tranny rebbuild soon, bearings in both front & rear diffs.

The A/C called it quits a year ago, the blend door is broke, the driverside rear door won't open the driverside front door lock actuator is acting up and so on.

 

[Turdle]

With 195,000 miles even at $5000 I don't know if I can justify it because I'm going to need a tranny rebbuild soon, bearings in both front & rear diffs.

The A/C called it quits a year ago, the blend door is broke, the driverside rear door won't open the driverside front door lock actuator is acting up and so on.

Gimme 5000 and I'll trade you--

 

[Dan Whitaker]

Gimme 5000 and I'll trade you--

I forgot about all the tuning issues as well.

 

[techieman33]

Gimme 5000 and I'll trade you--

he wouldn't save any money doing that, he'd spend any saved money on fixing the body/paint.

 

[Turdle]

he wouldn't save any money doing that, he'd spend any saved money on fixing the body/paint.

He would still save big $$
believe me--

 

[Turdle]

What Scat is calling a rotating assy is crank, rods, pistons & rings. Everything can be bought seperate.

I'm really starting to think it's not worth the money and hassle of builing a stroker engine.

$1900 for machine work
$1500-$1700 for crank, rods, pistons, rings
$1200-$1500 for heads
$500-$700 for cam lifters timing chain
$650 for headers

On the high end that totals $6450 and that does not include fuel pump injectors and other misc parts. Hell this could run $10,000 by the time it's said & done

The Mounty just is not worth sinking that kind of money into.

you forgot some things

transmission stuffs-
torque converter
throttle body
maf sensor
new o2 sensors

it adds up fast-

I'll bet I can account for 15k--

 

[Spas]

And the trans stuff Jt listed is assuming your 4r70w DOESN'T need a complete overhaul to begin with

My list so far is upper & lower intake, intake gaskets, injectors, throttle body, Focus Svt fuel pump, Msd, '98 2wd Pcm/ecu, better water pump, main girdle, oil pan, plugs & wires, electric fan, aluminum radiator, v8 wiring harness, trans rebuild/kit, torque monster headers, electric cut outs, x-pipe/cats/o2 sensors, mufflers/whole new exhaust system, deeper trans pan, flywheel, balancer, torque converter, driveshaft.....

Be grateful you v8 guys already have the majority of parts you need in place. There's the next $5 grand of my earnings, and that's not including a million little things like nut and bolts, just 'cuz Blackjack is a v6. I just keep telling myself it'll all be worth it when I lead a Corvette to the traps in a 1/4 mile

 

[Dan Whitaker]

And the trans stuff Jt listed is assuming your 4r70w DOESN'T need a complete overhaul to begin with

That's one problem as well. Mine has 195,000 miles on it and has not been touched. In another 5,000 miles I plan on having it rebuilt before it calls it quits.

The more I think about it the more $$$ my Mounty is going to fix up then it is worth.

 

[Spas]

That's one problem as well. Mine has 195,000 miles on it and has not been touched. In another 5,000 miles I plan on having it rebuilt before it calls it quits.

The more I think about it the more $$$ my Mounty is going to fix up then it is worth.

I would never have modified any of my Explorers if I was worried about what they were worth, man.... I fix my trucks because they're worth it to me. How much does that equal, you ask?

They're priceless

 

[CDW6212R]

High performance engines always push the total cost above the vehicles value.

Buy a crate engine, don't piece one together. I don't know how good those Scat cranks are. Bob Glidden ran Pro Stock in the early 70's with stock cast cranks inside 351 Clevelends. He turned them 9500rpm, Ford cast cranks are almost as good as GM forged cranks.

Consult with the crate engine builders. Work into a good combination which they build for you. The extra step of better parts will add to the cost, just shop around for a builder who doesn't overcharge for those upgrades. Good luck,

 

[Turdle]

High performance engines always push the total cost above the vehicles value.

Buy a crate engine, don't piece one together. I don't know how good those Scat cranks are. Bob Glidden ran Pro Stock in the early 70's with stock cast cranks inside 351 Clevelends. He turned them 9500rpm, Ford cast cranks are almost as good as GM forged cranks.

Consult with the crate engine builders. Work into a good combination which they build for you. The extra step of better parts will add to the cost, just shop around for a builder who doesn't overcharge for those upgrades. Good luck,

So, with a crate engine--
what about the balancer Don? The rotating assembly needs to be balanced to it--
Tossing an explorer balancer onto a crate engine "might" work, but that is risky--
Now--about the front cover-water pump and oil pan--

unless you buy a "stock" 250 hp ford crate engine-all that will need swapped over also-

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes Jon, the Explorer balancer would need to be sent to them, or pay them to buy one. The front dress is a given, and most crate engines come with little or none of that. The balancer, flex plate, and camshaft are the odd parts to deal with when you look at "Mustang" crate engines.

Check with Todd, he had a custom balancer made for his Windsor. If that can be done, then the same cost should get one for a 302. I need one with 8 ribs, I think that the stock pulley diameter is okay. Regards,

 

[Turdle]

Oh-you mean custom built crate engine--
My mistake-
when you say crate engine-I think of calling and getting one off the shelf-

 

[CDW6212R]

Well they have engines ready, but they all advertise a ton of upgrades. I haven't surfed through a Mustang magazine in years, but they are full of them. I checked out DSS a while ago, I'd like to give them a try.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

I'm thinking now of just buying Jon's used short block, having the crank turned and block line honed. Put in forged rods & pistons an the Comp Cam I have mentioned in other post.

Then down the road put a charger on & call it good.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

I called a machine shop about a mile from my house today and they said they can balance the rotating assembly using a 50 oz balancer. The machinist I talked to said he prefers to take it off the balancer if possible.

The lady that handles the pricing was out of the office but he said $300 to play safe. He didn't think it would be that much but he didn't want to say it cost x amount & then be more.