On A Mission for MORE POWER in California

[gmanpaint]

Is the front end going to be full width like the 9"? The full width is 6" wider then stock.

There are cheaper alternatives then $3k for a 9" rear.

Beef up the stock 8.8 with a super88 kit, that has Dana60 bearings, chromo axles, C-clip eliminator, and will gain 3" in width. Add a Truss, and your as good as a Dana 60 or better. Total.... $700.

Gears - $250 with install kit
Locker - $250 to $1000.

All for less then $2k, and strong as heck.

 

[Turdle]

The long travel kit will add a lot of width.

 

[gmanpaint]

The long travel kit will add a lot of width.

Can you get chromoly avles for the 9"? :scratch:

If set on the 9" I would truss the 9" using the Artec truss. It is set up for 4 link (on the 8.8 also) if wanted to go that route.

Or add 1.5" spacers to the supper88 kit for 6" total width.

 

[CDW6212R]

Is the front end going to be full width like the 9"? The full width is 6" wider then stock.

There are cheaper alternatives then $3k for a 9" rear.

Beef up the stock 8.8 with a super88 kit, that has Dana60 bearings, chromo axles, C-clip eliminator, and will gain 3" in width. Add a Truss, and your as good as a Dana 60 or better. Total.... $700.

Gears - $250 with install kit
Locker - $250 to $1000.

All for less then $2k, and strong as heck.

That's a great answer versus converting to a 9" rear.

The 9" is super strong, no doubt, but the 8.8 is more than enough for virtually anything, especially with upgrading.

Stick with the 8.8 rear. I wish mine was a little wider to make the wheels/tires set out where they really should be. That super88 kit sounds like a good deal.

 

[Prock~1338]

The reason for the 9" exchange is for the 35 spline chromoly axles, Yukon 4.88 gears and True-Trac limited slip so I dont chirp around every corner. I know that these new age cars take readings from diffent places to average them out and make sure that the numbers are within factory spec- which mine will surely not be - with the front being 10" wider overall, It;s looking like I need a 60" disc to disc rear diff housing. I have heard of people making some jerry rigged adapter plate so that the pickup can count a ring pressed somewhere on the 3rd member

 

[gmanpaint]

Why 35 spline? With a LSD instead of a locker, a 31 spline will be plenty strong. :scratch:

I was thinking of the full width 8.8 for chromo's, when I spoke about the 9". I brain farted there, my bad.

If you visit Ruffstuff website, and look at their complete built 9" 3rd members, they all come with a locker. Either a spool, Detroit, or ARB. This is in both the 31 & 35 spline variety.

Their fabbed 9" housing's are amazing too.

 

[CDW6212R]

I have read of a tone ring(VSS gear on the diff), being put together in a 9", but that was ages many years ago, and I think it was a bunch of trouble and no one else would do that. I'd work with the 8.8 parts, and make them fit the needs.

 

[Prock~1338]

Okay so were doing the BW4406 T-Case install and it's going as well as expected but I have a question. I got a 97 F150 early manual T-Case that from what I understand my speed-o plug will plug into the same plug, and it picks up from a ring around the output shaft of the T-Case ( however I haven't taken the nose cone off to see if there is one) so since i'm putting a new rear differential in the back, how do people get a sensor reading or pickup from something aftermarket like mine?

Next between me and my friends who all work at the fab shop, we have all been discussing the best way to get the most power, yet keep the old collector pipes and double cat intact for smog. So basicly using all the same flange style connections, welding in O2 bungs, ect. SO I know everyone has their own opinion on what they have used and or how they did it and I would like to hear from anyone willing to share some information.

My personal idea was to come off the headers which i believe are 2.25in correct me if im wrong, then basically just copy the factory routing, then once over the crossmember where the two cats previously were located -----
Now here is where the debate has been, so funny how passionate guys get when "they know what's best, I had a blah, blah, blah in 1882!" Stupid kids just want everything so loud you can't hear yourself think-says my Grandpa and Uncle.

I want to do the Magnaflow 5 X 11" Oval Dual in/ Single out mainly because I have had so many of their Mufflers and NEVER once had a problem! Also because of the size, going with the longer 28in. length it will help to stop the in cab drone at whatever that perfect RPM is that seems to find you whenever you're on the freeway on long trips. After that it will have to be figured out and finished after we get the rear done and can cycle the suspension and make sure we don't have any clearence issues.

So that's all I got for today - I have my finger on the button ready to buy a muffler but I wanted to hear from some others who have there's done and are happy with the PERFORMANCE as well as the sound. Thanks ya'll

 

[gmanpaint]

Can't offer much info on that, but can offer my .O2 on current setups.

Simple breakdown of my 2 rigs, same engine, with diff brands of exhaust.

I'm running Magnaflow on 1 rig, and Flowmaster on another.

Magnaflow is stainless and Flowmaster is not.

Magnaflow has stainless Cat's. Flowmaster has jack.

Magnaflow offers a lifetime warranty. Flowmaster is a 3 year.

Magnaflow is about 30-50% more in cost then traditional steel systems, but you only have to buy it once, and you don't have to worry about it rusting apart.

Now there is other brands out there that I would try, like Borla. Just depends on the application & my budget I guess.

If the Flowmaster gives up the ghost, I will replace it with a Magnaflow.

 

[Turdle]

I do not think you can make the tone ring signal work with the hall sensor signal type abs-speedo.

Read the 4th post down in this thread

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-197095.html

 

[CDW6212R]

The 98+ Explorers get the VSS from the differential, ABS sensor.

For any "drone" from an exhaust, research the "J pipes" that are very common these days. Simply adding the proper length(usually around 26-29") of dead ended pipe into the side of any exhaust should kill a certain rpm drone. Look up "1/4 wave pipe" or "Helmholtz" also, there are many threads on the web about it. Any muffler shop can add the "J" pipe. Some aftermarket companies even make their tail pipes or cat back etc, with the J" pipe built in.

 

[carlover]

Have you researched tunes yet? I'm buying a donor truck to do a v8 swap in my explorer and want to do a tune, just curious what you've found.

 

[Prock~1338]

Okay guy's I have ran into what could potentially be a problem! As most of the members in this forum are looking to just eliminate the AWD unit all together I myself have a slightly different plan inline, because of the rear suspension I plan to have in the rear of the Explorer it is going to call for the factory style telescoping driveline. From the figures we have written down we are looking to gain anywhere between 19" to 22" which we are going to limit with limit straps at about 17.5" taking in consideration the stretch of the straps - Here are the spring/shackle package I will be using, and as you can see the telescoping driveline is an absolute must due to the amount of movement these springs actually move! - KEEP IN MIND FRIENDS THIS IS ONLY DROOP! If you look at the picture there is quite a distance between the Axle and the 4" bump stops welded into the frame!

So here is my conundrum after searching the web for a tail shaft conversion kit like the Jeeps have - NOPE! no such a thing, so finally I ran across a site which made a Slip Yoke Eliminator in which you slide their Yoke over the input shaft of your transfer case, then they want you to drill and tap into hardened steel - "which they said it's allot easier then it sounds!" PLUS, PLUS, I HAVENT SAVED THE BEST FOR LAST! They want me to send them my slip yoke, pay in full and the guy I was dealing with never took my name and phone number 0 put me on hold and basically hung up. So Again back to the best part - "THEY WANT $379.00 plus my shipping of my yoke to them and them pay the shipping when the part is ready which get this - EXACT WORDS! " Well um were a little backed up so I don't know could be 6 to 8 weeks." At that point I was so fed up I had to go stretch my legs and try to find another alternative[/LEFT] SO SINCE I NEED THIS PART SO BADLY I HAVE DECIDED TO SEE IF ANY OF MY FRIENDS OUT THERE IN THE EXPLORERFORUM WORLD CAN HELP ME OUT!

 

[Prock~1338]

So here it is, if any of our amazing members - makes,or know someone who makes them and it a legitimate business - I will keep to my word as long as the manufacturer holds their end up as well. Now if your a machinist - man I must have went to 10 different machine shops who said they could do everything but the grooving inside the slip yoke and this is why I'm so frustrated and I REFUSE TO SPEND $375.00 FOR AN ADAPTER THAT " I MYSELF HAVE TO GO OUT AND BUY A $40-$50 DOLLAR SPECIALIZED SLOW TURN BIT, THEN FURTHERMORE NEED TO FIND THE CORRECT TAPER FOR THE VOLT THEY ARE SO GRACIOUS TO INCLUDE! LOL - I myself am no machinist and don't use SolidWorks or anything but by drilling a hardened piece of who know's what grade material, I would be willing to bet that with all thorq and 4WD driving allot of us do, wouldn't that be compared the weakest link?

-SO HERE IS MY CONTEST SO POSSIBLY ONE MEMBER CAN HELP ANOTHER! IF YOU CAN GET A COMPLETE FORD FLAT 31 SPLINE THAT CAN BE BOLTED ONTO A BW4406 THE HEADERS ARE YOURS FOR FREE!!!​

-CLICK ON THE THUMBNAIL PICTURE FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION!-​

 

[sicaz66]

I'd ditch the 4406 and go with an early bronco Dana 20. Order a ZF adapter and 1/2" spacer kit from AA.it bolts right up,vss plugs right in,smaller and stronger than a 4406, easy to find,and easy to rebuild.