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Optima Battery

CALDWELL

Explorer Addict
Joined
September 1, 2008
Messages
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City, State
Philadelphia Airport, PA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2005 V6 Silver XLT
currently i have the original battery, and I think it might be on the way out...

Im running to Kenwood Excelon Amps ( XR-1S ) and ( XR-4S ), and im sure there pulling some decent power from the battery. I want to get a strong batter that will have no problem with that power demand. I was thinking about a yellow top battery, but I dont know what battery I need for my X ??

2005 V6

thanks fella's
 



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  • Screen shot 2011-01-14 at 4.16.02 PM.png
    Screen shot 2011-01-14 at 4.16.02 PM.png
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why not just use a caps for the system? so its constant power.....

also a h.o alt is nice esp with a system for the amp draw, no dimming etc. but its all in wattage.
 






I've heard from numerous installers, including a friend of mine, that caps are nothing but a band-aid for stereos. Its a quick fix. You'll get alot more in the long upgrading the battery/big 3. Adding a cap is still gonna put strain on the bat and alt. Where do you think the power for the cap comes from.
 






I've heard from numerous installers, including a friend of mine, that caps are nothing but a band-aid for stereos. Its a quick fix. You'll get alot more in the long upgrading the battery/big 3. Adding a cap is still gonna put strain on the bat and alt. Where do you think the power for the cap comes from.

explain how, running 12.4v constant to an amp is a bandaid, vs with running 12-14 volts unfiltered.... and when the base line hits, and voltages dips sub 10v from amp draw.
 






^^i can't say why caps are bad, but i have never ran one. i'm big in the spl world and 99.99999% of people i talk to say a cap isn't nothin but a waste of money period. Not doggin you or nothing so don't get offended..

As far as a yellow top i took mine out of my blazer and put it in my explorer..it's near 3 years old and still as strong as ever..however i do have a 270 amp alt and 3 2400's in the back as well as the big 3..but the yt is definitely a good starting point
 












good so the yellow top is a good choice battery then i assume...

just looking for a good quality replacement...

thanks boys !
 






most definitely man! mine hasn't let me down
 






explain how, running 12.4v constant to an amp is a bandaid, vs with running 12-14 volts unfiltered.... and when the base line hits, and voltages dips sub 10v from amp draw.

If you run a system long and hard enough the voltage to that cap is gonna drop just like it will to everything else.

I'm running about 1000 watts total in my 4 cyl Toyota minitruck with a red top and factory alt and the only upgraded wire is the batt ground and I have had no issues. My lights don't even fade when running it hard.
 






yellow tops are worth the money ive owned one since 04 , it sat for almost a year , i hooked the ground up on my explorher and fired with no problem ,they do help with car audio also , i noticed my headlights and dash lights didnt flash at me anymore lol , but it was a big system lol
 






awesome !

thanks fella's
 












I just put in a Yellow Top and replaced my cables. Running good so far.
 






yellow top is what i did under the hood! ive noticed that my explorer crancks faster and i dont have to worry about it failing to starting in the winter. and you also have the side posts to connect the power wires for the amp to keep it looking clean.
 






Hello, I noticed your conversation and wanted to offer some assistance. CALDWELL, given the demands of you audio system, I would recommend either a D34 or D34/78 YellowTop (thank you section525 for posting the screen grab). YellowTops are also appropriate for other deep-cycle applications, including winches. nvrenufedge is correct about an upgraded battery, wiring and alternator being the best long-term solutions for high-demand applications. If anyone has any questions about our batteries, I'll do my best to answer them.

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
 






explain how, running 12.4v constant to an amp is a bandaid, vs with running 12-14 volts unfiltered.... and when the base line hits, and voltages dips sub 10v from amp draw.

Ok strap in Waskly my boy... I will give you more than you could have ever wanted to know why Caps are nothing but a band-aid...

1.) Let's first clarify what each part of the Explorer's electrical system does:

Battery: stores energy ONLY to start the truck the next time, don't get it twisted or confused. The ONLY purpose of the battery is to store enough energy to START the truck the next time you want to drive PERIOD!!!

Alternator: runs the electrical system of the ENTIRE truck once the battery has lit the sequence off. FACT. Alternator does all the work. No way around it.

Cables: transfer voltage and amperage from the battery to the starter and the alternator back to the battery to complete the next charge cycle. The vehicles electronics (all LOADS) are tied to the charging point of the battery so the ALTERNATOR can both run the Truck AND charge the battery IF and ONLY if there is voltage & amperage LEFT OVER, after running all those LOADS.... Notice LOAD is in BOLD twice in one sentence, this is important.


2.) All aspects of the OE electrical system are a compromise to get the basic job done with what is there from the factory. PERIOD. No extra lights, neon, stereo, CB radios, or 12v vibrators for the girlfriend on the long road trips.

3.) ANYTHING you add to the truck, short of an improved or additional alternator is a LOAD on the OE alternator & battery. PERIOD end of conversation. An amp = new load, a cap = new load, an electric cooler = load. If the OE alternator cannot keep up, any new item is just additional stress.

4.) A new battery maybe, indeed, more resilient to constant draw, like an Optima, SVR, or whatever. But the fact is that the battery is being called on to do what its not intended. YES adding another battery is JUST another load to the Alternator...

Are you seeing that the ALTERNATOR is the key in this discussion?

If the OE alternator is rated at 110 amps & the vehicle is pulling 90 to begin with, then (2) amps pulling 10-40 amps peak EACH will cause a deficit. Simple math.

Capacitors in the automotive-audio world are likely the single greatest marketing joke EVER accomplished. Most lack the internal design qualities (ESR & damping factor) to even remotely do what they claim. If a cap is to be purchased, its after proper alternator sizing, battery layout, proper cabling (Big 3 & proper grounds) and then & only then go big or go home... 50-100uF of cap is a minimum to make any REAL change AFTER the entire electrical system has been brought up to snuff.

Bottom line: Stiffening caps, as you find them in 99% of the audio shops or online are nothing more than another load on your alternator. Don't waste the $$

Rob
<MECP cert. installer, IASCA Cert. Install & SQ Judge, 25+ year veteran to the car audio industry>
 









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