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Perry's Fenders

Anyone know if Perry is in the works for making panels for the new Sport Trac and Sport body style?
 



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I have some negatives to fiberglass (mainly because I personally hate the look :rolleyes: )

1. I've seen people try to 'slap on' fiberglass fenders, and It usually doesn't come out clean. It takes time/patience to get all the seams lined up, and it will probably never look as clean as stock. This is especially true with the rears, and even more so with a 4-door.

2. without a lot of prep work (sanding/priming/sanding etc) fiberglass will not look as smooth or nicely contoured as steel.

3. body damage: steel bends, and can be rebent, filled in. fiberglass cracks/rips most likely requiring a new piece of fiberglass.

4. i personally want the tire to be at the edge of the fender, so you need to run rims with a larger offset to make it look right, which would increase rubbing problems up front a lot

As for tire size with fiberglass on a newer model:

33's with only TT/Shackle with only minor modifications to the firewall. I could easily see rubbing at the top of all 4 fender wells though (I do with 35's and 3" bodylift)

35's with TT/Shackle and 2-3" bodylift and significant mods to the firewall, minor mods to rear stock fender lip

CoolChris,
I've been running 35's with no problems since Dec. (knock on wood) I beleive that I'm the only newer model running 35's though so. . .
 






I love the less lift - more tire look and function. I'm fitting 33s on with only 2.5" of suspension and stock fenders. The rear isn't a problem at all, except for the inside of the fender well which rubs even with stock tires :rolleyes:

As for the front, the bumper may need to be trimmed a teenie bit, but the rear of the fender (mostly the plastic) needs to be trimmed about an inch or a bit more. I've already trimmed off an inch and you can't tell at all, it still looks stock.

With Perry's fenders you should easily fit 33's.
 






I have 3.73s. It equals about a true 3.33 rearend ratio, which is close to my stock 3.27. I'll lose a little power, but will gain much needed mileage and also a little highway RPM room.
 






If using the rear fenders on a 4 door, is the rear doors still usable?
 






The only reason I ask is I was thinking about having to cut holes for the handle and such.
Plus from this pic:
Dead Link Removed
You can see the bottom line of the front door, but not the bottom line of the rear door. Maybe that's just because it's thier race truck though.
 






the rear 4-door fiberglass comes in one peice and you have to cut it in order for the rear door to be usable.
 






that does look like two pieces. . .I've seen one where it looked like it was one piece and I've heard stories of having to cut it so I dont know. . .
 






I found this picture

baja042.jpg
 






I have a 91 XLT and was going to use a new style steel front end but the Perrys looks nice and saves weight. Curious..how streetable is the front end? Can I use the ground effect front from a newer style X? How hard are the holes to mount headlights? Grills?So many questions..so little answers..:confused:
 






Originally posted by PHAT91XLT
I have a 91 XLT and was going to use a new style steel front end but the Perrys looks nice and saves weight. Curious..how streetable is the front end? Can I use the ground effect front from a newer style X? How hard are the holes to mount headlights? Grills?So many questions..so little answers..:confused:

currently the 95+ kit will work fine on your 91...bad news is a 95+ bumper wont fit on your truck as the frame had different mounting horns.....
 






So I weld on mew brackets I have to custom fab..hmmm. So is the kit streetable do you know? Need better pics on their site of it showing it WORKS! Thanks for the help!:chug:
 






ricks truck is a 93 with the 95+ perrys kit
 






Anyone have good pics from the front or during install I could see? I am VERY interested in this but need to see how streetable it is. Thanks in advance!
 












Originally posted by PHAT91XLT
the Perrys looks nice and saves weight.

I don't know for sure, but I doubt you would save weight. A stock fender by itself weighs very little. Does Perry's site give weights for the pieces?
 






Rick..truck looks great! Curious how did the new style factory grill and lights mount up? My thing is I was going to use a new front clip from the newer style (under $600 for hood, grill, fenders, lights, bumper) but the 'glass front looks nice and would be alot lighter and would be easier to work so its a toss up. Any and all help or thoughts would begreat..this will be going on an air-bagged/lowered X.:rolleyes: :confused:
 






I guess I'll chime in on this one. The front is pretty much bolt in. you take off your fenders, and line up the fiberglass. They don't come with the bolt holes drilled so you line them up with all the bodylines as close as possible and mark your holes. Drill them out and bolt them up. If the body lines are off you can usually use body washers to get it straight. The inner plastic fender wells will either need completely removed and all the stuff mounted to it will need to be dealt with or with some patients you can trim them up to fit.

The rear, I've heard, go for around $600 for the 4 door. They are not nearly as easy to install. They attach with zsus tabs. To do that you have to weld tabs onto your body, say good buy to stock body work. That's really hard to make sure all your body lines are straight. Anyways, I know there's more involved in the rear but this should kinda give you an idea of what's involved.

Khris
 






im gonna go check out perrys explorer (the yellow one in the pics) either today or tomorrow. he said he would give 15% off for the explorer group. heres the price rundowns:

front fenders: $150 each pannel (2 pannels = 300)
rear fenders: $150 each pannel (4 pannels = 600)
custom front bumper: $500 (includes skidplate, 2 light tabs, and license mount)
custom rear bumper: $200 (it was more if you wanted a tow-hitch... i think like 300-400)
paint job: $50 each pannel
installation: $150 for front fenders
$400 for rear fenders
$150 for ezuses (sp?) (the tabs that mount up the pieces, they cost 5 bucks each)


so thats kind of the breakdown, the installation is a lot of money and you would save a lot to do it yourself. ill give you guys some more info when i go down and check out his explorer for myself.
 



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PHAT91- the front fenders don't save you any weight just like rangerX said. The stock sheet metal is prettylight and the fiberglass isn't any lighter. Good luck with it though.
 






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