pinging and timing chains!!

[Woolval]

If you remove everything from the radiator to the acessories you should be able to do get to the engine front well.

....

Don, I know this is an old thread, but I'm experiencing it now! You state "remove everything from radiator to the accessories..." Is it possible to swing the A/C coils out of the way or will I have to remove the A/C? I'm trying to see if I can avoid having to take it to someone to evacuate and recharge the A/C system. It looks like a pretty big job, but I have more time than money. Other than the timing tool will I need any other special tools? It looks like I'll need a long torx bit to remove the cassette bolt. Do you know the bit size? I'm sure I'll have to buy one before I start. Will I need any special tools to remove pulleys? Any other advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks for any help you can provide. All your other posts are giving me hope of saving my valves and my wallet!

Val
Ocala, Fl.

2002 Ford Explorer
124000 miles... living on borrowed time!

 

[CDW6212R]

Hello Val, the special timing tools are the hardest to come by. You can fairly easily get the needed Torx socket, Torx bit, and the odd balancer puller bolts. The AC isn't that hard to work around or with, just take your time.

You don't need to remove the radiator, but it is very close there, the condenser too. Remove what you can readily to make more room. The balancer requires very long bolts to remove which aren't in most pulling kits. Just go slow pulling the balancer, I used spacers from odd short bolts that fit inside the center hole to help. It can be done a couple of ways, just don't force things there.

 

[Woolval]

Anybody out there have the timing tool required for this job that they'd like to sell or rent? I will use it this time, but won't need it for another 80K to 100K miles... just like you!

Thanks,

Val

Update: After running around all morning my local parts houses were no help. Somehow I was able to find this Ford SOHC 4.0L V6 Cam Service Set from OTC. ( kit # OTC 6488) http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-warehouse/OTC-6488.html . I'm getting closer to tackling this job! I found a timing chain kit here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/01-0...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item483991ed89 . It may have more than I need... not sure if I should get this or go locally and just buy the front end parts I'll change. With 125K miles would you recommend I change my chains along with the cassettes? I'm thinking it would be a good decision since I'm already in there. But... like I said before, I've got more time than money.

 

[Woolval]

Finally!!!... I have ordered the parts. Somewhere someone mentioned Tousley Ford and I want to thank you. Their pricing is excellent! I even went back to my local dealer to see if he could match them or come close, but he couldn't, so Tousley Ford got my order. ( http://www.tousleyfordparts.com/ )
Here are the parts I ordered (in case someone like me finds this thread later...)
2U3Z6D256CA - Tensioner Timing kit - $110.10
7U3Z6A257A - cassette assy, front left - $70.39
7U3Z6K254B - tensioner (for cassette, front) - $28.59
7U3Z6K254A - tensioner (for cassette rear) - $50.00

I also ordered new valve cover gaskets and an o-ring for my water pump housing since I noticed a slight pooling of coolant there.

About 1 week ago I ordered and received the OTC-6488 timing tool kit for $182 plus $12 shipping from www.ntxtools.com, so I'm ready to start.

I don't see the need for posting any pictures since there are so many here and http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=163298. This link provides extremely valuable info from those of you who have run into difficulties. After reading this entire 15 page post three times I hope I have learned enough to avoid those problems!

Don, I will heed your advice, go slow and steady and be very critical on getting my timing tool set up before I loosen things. Thanks for all your posts.

Val

2002 Ford Explorer
4.0L SOHC
125,000 miles... all on Amsoil

 

[2000StreetRod]

left tensioner part number

The part number for the left (front) timing chain tensioner should be 7U3Z6K254B unless it is different for a 2002 from a 2000 model

 

[Woolval]

Opps!! I see what you're pointing out. I listed the same number for both the left and the right tensioners.

You are correct... the part number for the left front is as you say... 7U3Z6K254B. I've edited my post (above yours) to fix my typo.

I used this search: http://www.tousleyfordparts.com/

and did a "SEARCH BY PART NUMBER OR KEYWORD" , plugged in your number 7U3Z6K254B. I made a typo when I was posting to this thread.

Thanks for catching my mistake!

 

[Woolval]

Job begun, making progress

My parts should be here Tuesday and my tear-down began Saturday. I quickly realized that I MUST label all my lines I'm disconnecting or this Explorer will NEVER run again! I'm using the blue masking tape, labeling "A" to "A", "B" to "B", etc. I need to go pick up longer bolts for the pulley puller, then I can see how bad my tensioner is.

My intake manifold is heavily gunked up, as are my intake ports. Anyone have some good suggestions on cleaning them? I'll probably use some carb cleaner, brushes and elbow grease.

Slow and steady it goes... Thanks to everyone who posted tips. You've given me the confidence to take on this job and it's looking good!

Val

 

[Woolval]

Interesting... after 125,000 miles my timing chain tensioner doesn't look bad. The parts will be here tomorrow, and after all this work, I will definitely replace it! I've cleaned my intake manifold with carb cleaner and elbow grease; it looks better. I've cleaned my intake ports and the entire area around them. I actually had some mud wasp nests built in there! And I drive this Explorer daily... go figure.

I replace my fuel filter today since I'm waiting on the parts... and it's the original filter. Did I say I have 125K miles on it? The output hose that takes the special tool came off easily. I made sure I used a screwdirver to push it fully into the connector, then the connector came off. But, those PIS connectors on the input side gave me hell!! I spent over an hour getting the smaller of the two hoses off! But, I now have a new fuel finlter on my Explorer. What a PITA!!

We'll see how it goes tomorrow when I actually have the new parts in hand.

I know I've said it before, but thanks again to everyone who posted here. It made my disassembly relatively easy!

Val

I would add pictures but it says I can't. Bummer!!

 

[CDW6212R]

You can make links to any photo hosting account. In the advanced posting page, find an icon that relates to inserting a link. You paste your link address in there.

 

[Woolval]

Timing chain tensioner at 125K miles

Test to see if picture link works... and it does! Thanks for the education Don.

My 2002 Explorer original timing chain tensioner that has 125K miles on it. It actually looks pretty good! When I removed the bolts from the tensioner it came right off. It was not putting any tension on my chain. Notice how many more leaf springs are on the new tensioner. Removing the cassette guides was a little frustrating because it did not want to lift out. The lower bolt guide was hitting the engine head. After tugging and pulling for 15 minutes it finally lifted out. New parts sure do look pretty! LOL

http://www.flickr.com/photos/49919859@N03

 

[2000StreetRod]

Good looking engine & tensioner

Your engine looks pretty clean. Far better than mine did. My tensioner looked good but when I investigated further I found it was not exerting any pressure against the chain. Check yours closely and see if the chain is loose at the contact point with the tensioner. Your old tensioner has only 3 leaves and the new tensioner has 6 leaves and a stronger, wider mounting base.

 

[Woolval]

StreetRod, I believe my engine looks that clean because I've run Amsoil in it since the first 3000 miles. Also, I only change the oil every 20K miles and a new filter every 10K miles. I know people are probably cringing out there after reading that, but... like you said, my engine looks pretty clean! I'm a big believer in synthetic oils, and Amsoil is my preference. I run Amsoil in everything ... mower, generator, wife's car, motorcycles.

And yes, my tensioner was useless. Sure, it looks in good shape, but absolutely no tension was applied to the chain. I did notice the new tensioner has twice as many springs, so I'm looking forward to a quiet engine! (I updated my post above yours prior to reading your comments)

Thanks,
Val

P.S. Waiting to borrow a torque wrench from a friend so I can put everything back together. I'm concerned about the timing because the removal of the jacksaft sprocket bolt moved the crank slightly. So, how do I keep it aligned when tightening? I do have the timing tool...

 

[Woolval]

Torque small bolts necessary?

I'm reassembling the engine. The small bolts that hold the cassette guides and the jackshaft chain tensioner require torque in the in/lb range. I don't have a torque wrench that measures in/lbs, but Sears has one for $80.00. Did you use a torque wrench for these small bolts? While I want to do it correctly and torque these to spec I don't really want to spend another $80.

But, at the same time, wouldn't I feel stupid if a bolt backed out and ate up the inside of my engine, just so I could save $80.00?

OK... sounds like I answered my own question, but I'd still appreciate input.

Thanks,
Val

 

[CDW6212R]

If you are comfortable tightening bolts from experience, you can easily do those without a TW. Use a drop of loctite blue at least, and use a small ratchet with just your wrist. It's easy to go too far if you use bigger ratchets or "put your arm into it." Each bolt needs torque on it based on the bolt size and steel strength. So say those you are working on are the same size as a trans pan bolt, they would take the same torque.

 

[2000StreetRod]

torque wrench

I'm reassembling the engine. The small bolts that hold the cassette guides and the jackshaft chain tensioner require torque in the in/lb range. I don't have a torque wrench that measures in/lbs, but Sears has one for $80.00. Did you use a torque wrench for these small bolts? While I want to do it correctly and torque these to spec I don't really want to spend another $80.

But, at the same time, wouldn't I feel stupid if a bolt backed out and ate up the inside of my engine, just so I could save $80.00?

OK... sounds like I answered my own question, but I'd still appreciate input.

Thanks,
Val

I purchased a 1/4 inch drive inch-lb torque wrench from Harbor Freight Tools for about $25. I also purchased one of their drive adapter sets (1/4 to 3/8, 3/8 to 1/2, 1/2 to 3/8, 3/8 to 1/4). That way I can use my existing sockets. The intake manifold bolts should be torqued with an in-lb wrench.

 

[2000StreetRod]

timing procedure

. . . P.S. Waiting to borrow a torque wrench from a friend so I can put everything back together. I'm concerned about the timing because the removal of the jacksaft sprocket bolt moved the crank slightly. So, how do I keep it aligned when tightening? I do have the timing tool...

If you loosened the jackshaft sprocket bolt then the right camshaft probably jumped out of time due to the valve spring pressure. Both camshafts should be retimed. The Ford procedure is in My Helpful Threads SOHC V6 Camshaft Timing

 

[CDW6212R]

Dale you mention the Harbor Freight torque wrench, that's what I bought long ago for doing trans valve body bolts. Those are very important to be torqued just right. Those and a few odd tiny bolts are all I have ever needed it for. These in the SOHC block are just small bolts that don't hold fluid pressure etc, they just hold a part together. Anyone who has worked on cars a lot can easily tighten them about right without a TW.

The intake bolts are holding a plastic intake though, those need to be very carefully tightened, evenly. I can do it by hand because of my experience with delicate things like VB's etc. Anyone not very comfortable with that kind of bolt, they should torque those with a wrench.

 

[Woolval]

I didn't think of Harbor Freight; good advice. I would probably be OK tightening by hand using my 1/4 drive ratchet. Honestly, all the motorcycles and things I've worked on thru the years I've done OK without the use of a torque wrench. Maybe because I'm older and slower, plus more cautious, I'm finally concerned about torque specs. My friends brother is a mechanic at a local Firestone tire shop and he might have an in/lb TW I can borrow. If not, I'll probably go to Harbor Freight, especially after you pointing out the intake manifold is plastic (or some compound).

Dale, thanks tremendously for the link to the camshaft timing. I'll read it over 3 times , then once more to make sure I have a good grasp of how to do this. I love the tip on using the chain to hold crank from moving! Simple and brilliant! Brilliant to me because I would have never thought of that.

Thanks Don and Dale for your help.

Val

P.S. Dale, is that your engine? No wonder you think my engine looks so clean. Yours look like it's full of gunk! Sorry...

 

[Woolval]

Did I screw up with gasket?

I think I made a dumb mistake. I tore the rubber part of the upper oil pan gasket thinking it was held there with silicone. It also looks like this piece of rubber (it is the curved part that sits directly under the crankshaft seal) is part of the upper oil pan gasket. Meaning, I might need to replace the upper oil pan gasket! Which means I would need to pull the upper oil pan.

I think I tore the rubber when I was removing the jackshaft chain. I took the chain and gear off as one unit and it pushed on the rubber part of the gasket. A dumb move that may cost me a lot more work. I am working with the engine in the vehicle. I might post a picture tomorrow, but tonight I'm to bummed out to bother.

Do you think it is possible to "patch" this with silicone, or would I end up with a leak. And I hate leaks..

Nightmares tonight!

Val

 

[2000StreetRod]

Gasket damage

I assume you're referring to the area marked with red arrows in the photo below.

If so, yes that is part of the upper pan (block cradle) gasket. The only way to replace that is to remove the block cradle which is very difficult to do with the engine in the vehicle. That area mates with the bottom of the front timing cover that encircles the crankshaft front seal. I suggest that you just apply silicone to the gasket (I use Permatex High-temp Red RTV) or the timing cover just prior to installing the timing cover. You should apply RTV to the block cradle at the seam identified by the green arrows. Also apply RTV to the timing cover at the location identified by the blue arrows.