robertoa1a
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- January 24, 2009
- Messages
- 975
- Reaction score
- 8
- City, State
- Jacksonville, FL
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 96 5.0 xlt 2wd white/char
When you buy a used explorer the odds are that the preventative maintenance was either neglected or was less than perfect. Most of the engine problems in this forum can be attributed to lack of P/M. The problems that we incur that are true parts failures are much easier to find if the other P/M is up to date.
If you bought your explorer with 90,000+ miles on the OD then there are a few things to check that will save you money over time (hopefully before a catastrophic failure). The nice thing about P/M is that it is work that you can enjoy being that it is planned. There is little reason not to get 300+k miles if everything is in order (or at least try). These engines are durable.
Lets go! I would like to mention a few things people overlook. Feel free to add to the list.
Spark plugs; The original motorcraft often last so long that people don't change them until they get rust welded in. Change the plugs with OEM plugs every 60k miles and check the color and deposits on them for signs of trouble. A grayish tan color with slight electrode wear is normal. Use anti sease lube on the threads of the plugs. $30-$45.
Plug wires don't last for ever due to heat and rot. For reliability purposes I would use OEM $50+.
The air filter is a no brainer.
Replace the PCV valve. Easy and less than $5.
Cleaning the MAF sensor and IAT before it develops corrosion is part of the deal and can save your engine and cats. This should cost about $5. so no excuses.
Flush the radiator and refill with the proper amount of water to coolant ratio. Save the water pumps impeller and other parts. Maybe$15.
Bleed the brakes until clear fluid comes out. The fluid is designed to absorb moisture and trash.
Clean the battery terminals with a cheep wire brush gadget $2. Have at least a cheep volt meter and learn basic electricity $8. You don't have to be a scientist. This will be a handy survival skill $0.
When changing oil, if there is any sludge, try a good synthetic oil for a while. Then do early changes until the sludge is gone $30.
Know that the tires are ballanced and have the same air pressure $0-$30.
Buy at least a cheep hand held grease gun and load it with a quality high heat lithium grease. Hit all the fittings on the front end with it to save the poor ball joints. Buy new fittings if necessary as they provably have never been greased $25.
The sway bar links were crap on theese. Check for loosenes. Aftermarket ones are better $0-$20
Learn how to repack the bearings and use the above grease gun. That grease rarely gets changed until catastrophic failure $0.
Run a can of Sea Foam through the vacuum system and put some in the tank to reduce carbon buildup in the cylinder chamber. There are literally hundreds of threads on this if you use this sights search tool $15-35.
The rear end/differential fluid provably needs changing. If you have limited slip/posi or by any other name then add friction reducer. Trucks with a factory towing pkg and 4x4s usually have this option. I have heard that using royal purple gear lube makes a noticeable difference in performance and fuel economy. ($25-$60).
Change (or have it changed) the trans fluid and maybe filter, $20 and up depending.
If you see chips in the pant put a little paint on it for now before it rust and gets real ugly. A body man can fix your errors later but not the rust $5.
Use this forums search tools and people to learn the above if you have problems.
If you bought your explorer with 90,000+ miles on the OD then there are a few things to check that will save you money over time (hopefully before a catastrophic failure). The nice thing about P/M is that it is work that you can enjoy being that it is planned. There is little reason not to get 300+k miles if everything is in order (or at least try). These engines are durable.
Lets go! I would like to mention a few things people overlook. Feel free to add to the list.
Spark plugs; The original motorcraft often last so long that people don't change them until they get rust welded in. Change the plugs with OEM plugs every 60k miles and check the color and deposits on them for signs of trouble. A grayish tan color with slight electrode wear is normal. Use anti sease lube on the threads of the plugs. $30-$45.
Plug wires don't last for ever due to heat and rot. For reliability purposes I would use OEM $50+.
The air filter is a no brainer.
Replace the PCV valve. Easy and less than $5.
Cleaning the MAF sensor and IAT before it develops corrosion is part of the deal and can save your engine and cats. This should cost about $5. so no excuses.
Flush the radiator and refill with the proper amount of water to coolant ratio. Save the water pumps impeller and other parts. Maybe$15.
Bleed the brakes until clear fluid comes out. The fluid is designed to absorb moisture and trash.
Clean the battery terminals with a cheep wire brush gadget $2. Have at least a cheep volt meter and learn basic electricity $8. You don't have to be a scientist. This will be a handy survival skill $0.
When changing oil, if there is any sludge, try a good synthetic oil for a while. Then do early changes until the sludge is gone $30.
Know that the tires are ballanced and have the same air pressure $0-$30.
Buy at least a cheep hand held grease gun and load it with a quality high heat lithium grease. Hit all the fittings on the front end with it to save the poor ball joints. Buy new fittings if necessary as they provably have never been greased $25.
The sway bar links were crap on theese. Check for loosenes. Aftermarket ones are better $0-$20
Learn how to repack the bearings and use the above grease gun. That grease rarely gets changed until catastrophic failure $0.
Run a can of Sea Foam through the vacuum system and put some in the tank to reduce carbon buildup in the cylinder chamber. There are literally hundreds of threads on this if you use this sights search tool $15-35.
The rear end/differential fluid provably needs changing. If you have limited slip/posi or by any other name then add friction reducer. Trucks with a factory towing pkg and 4x4s usually have this option. I have heard that using royal purple gear lube makes a noticeable difference in performance and fuel economy. ($25-$60).
Change (or have it changed) the trans fluid and maybe filter, $20 and up depending.
If you see chips in the pant put a little paint on it for now before it rust and gets real ugly. A body man can fix your errors later but not the rust $5.
Use this forums search tools and people to learn the above if you have problems.
