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Project TNT...

Project Torque 'N' Teal(factory paint color). 92 Ford Ranger 4.0L 5 speed(customers rig and he has been helping me). This will probably the first of many SAS swap Rangers. Already have two more lined up after this one. :biggrin: Let's get to the goodies.


Short bed regular cab. Wheeling friend 107 inch wheel base.
IMAG0232.jpg


First order of business Explorer disc brake 8.8 axle swap, 4.56 gears, E locker, and Riddler cover...
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Next we picked up some monster 63 inch( about 6 inches long then stock) Chevy 1500 leaf springs 40 bucks at the JY for a set. We decided we wanted mad flex.
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Way cool!!

What did you use (specs) for the RA's themselves? I see the bags of 3/4" joints for the TRE's, are the joints for the RA's 1" BF johnny's?

Have you ever used the Super 88 kit for the 8.8? I am tossing the idea of getting it.

I believe the the lower arm is around 28-30 inches adjustable. The Mercs are 30-33 adjustable. The single upper arm is about around 20 inches I think. The joints for the control arms are Currie CE-9114 2 5/8" wide the thread is 1 1/4" - 12 TPI. I get it all from Summit cause if get it all at once you save a couple bucks on shipping. The steering heims are 5/8 x 3/4. There is guy on Ebay that sells them. I have had pretty good luck with them.

Order two of these for your steering.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Panh...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5643f01359

Then order one extra 3/4 x 3/4 heim
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/XML-...1718426?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item5ad04c4e9a
2 of these.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/XML-...1718426?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item5ad04c4e9a
And one of these.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-4-...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item564089d956

Now you can take the extra 3/4 heim and use it at the pitman arm. Ford pitman uses a larger TRE so the hole is a little bigger. 5/8 will work but it will not make 100% contact inside the pitman arm hole. I did it to the Merc made me feel a little more comfortable. Then the left over 5/8 heim you can use to make an adjustable track bar. Works out good. You will wanna grab some 1.5" .250" wall DOM takes under 7'. I normally have 10" piece left over on the steering. Then I take a stock track bar from a Jeep cut it down weld some of the left over steering DOM on so I can use the other bung and bam! You have a steering and track bar set up.

On the control arms I use 2" .250 wall DOM for the lowers. You need about 6' of it. 2 x CE-9114 and 2 x CE9114B. Lower bushings I use Energy Suspension 9.9489. You can get these from Summit might take awhile to find them but they have them.

The upper arm I ordered a 1 1/4" - 12 TPI bolt from Fastenal order one extra CE-9114B bung. Cut the head off and weld it to a piece of 2" .250 wall.
Use Energy Suspension bushing 9.9483 for the upper. For the tube I use
1 3/4" .120 wall HREW or DOM doesn't matter cause the arm will never see a rock if it does you have bigger problems. LOL

Hardware you will need 4 - 9/16"x4" grade 8 bolts with nylocks and washers for lowers.
Upper I use one 10mm(Jeep axle uses this size) about 3.5" long with locking nut and washer, and then you will need a 1/2"x 3.5" grade 8 with nylock and washer.

Steering and track bar 1 - 5/8"x 2.75", 1 - 5/8"x 3.75", 1 - 5/8"x 4.75", 1- 3/4"x4" all grade 8 you want nylocks and washers for all these bolts. Then if you use a Jeep track bar cut down the bushing uses a 10mm bolt just like the upper arm.

Control arm brackets I made out of 1/4" plate. But I think Ballistic Fab sells some easy to use ones pre-made. I will post a link.
 



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Here are the brackets that are pre-made. Not a bad price. I made my own since I had no idea what I was going to run into. When I set my brackets I pushed them as close as I could to the crossmember to make it easier. The time it would have taken to fab a new crossmember with control arm brackets in it didn't seem worth it to gain another inch or two longer control arm. So depending on what length of arm you want if you decide to use the brackets below you may need to cut them down shorter. Also I would gusset the frame side along the bracket area. I built my gusset into the brackets I made.

You want the 2.63" with 9/16" hole.
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Heavy-Duty-Frame-Link-Mount_p_1511.html
 












It's so close yet so far!! I will never be done!! Made a list of everything I need last night... Not that short but still not that bad! Thanks Stang5lgt!
:rangergreen:
 






It's so close yet so far!! I will never be done!! Made a list of everything I need last night... Not that short but still not that bad! Thanks Stang5lgt!
:rangergreen:

You will never be done. LOL next hydro assist, beadlocks, 5.0 swap, cage, etc, etc......;)
 












More updates...
Austin and I have been busy adding some more off road hardware to TNT.

Built new sliders.
New front bumper with 10k Superwinch.
Chro-Mo inner Dana 30 axle shafts.
Front Dana 30 E locker.
Austin added new seats and pimped out the interior and also made a hand throttle for wheeling. Pics below.

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Looks great man, I'm trying to figure out the design for my rear steel bumper I'll be building for my lifted Sport Trac. Any tips or advise would be great.

Here's the thread for the modded ARB winch bumper I did for it and the swing out tire carrier I built for it to give you an idea of what I'm building onto.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=355536&page=6

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=338445&highlight=swing+tire+carrier
I always start by building a box off the frame and then let my imagination go from there. I do not bolt my bumpers on they are all welded to the frame.
Looks great! How about some diamond plate gap-blockage? :D

He is removing the body lift so the gap will be gone soon. :)
 






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