Project Vehicle - 1998 Explorer Limited

[Dono]

Is it possibly low, and freezing up on the highway?

 

[GLOCKer]

Is it possibly low, and freezing up on the highway?

I don't think its freezing. I'm not seeing any signs of thaw.

 

[donalds]

Heater control valve malfunction?

 

[GLOCKer]

Heater control valve malfunction?

Is that the vacuum actuated doohickey near the firewall? If so I believe it's working.

 

[donalds]

Follow your heater core hoses it's on one of them has a vac ling going to it

 

[GLOCKer]

Follow your heater core hoses it's on one of them has a vac ling going to it

Yep. That's working.

I'm thinking either a pressure sensor or clogged orifice tube. I'm probably going to have to take it somewhere.

 

[Turdle]

Hold up a minute--
I am going to suggest the possibility there is a vacuum loss at highway engine speeds causing the valve to open and allowing coolant to the heater core. You might check the valve again while pulling the throttle open by hand, see if you get some movement.

P.S.

Also check while pulling the throttle to see if the ac clutch deactivates,

High TPS output is what turns off the ac relay under heavy acceleration.

 

[GLOCKer]

Hold up a minute--
I am going to suggest the possibility there is a vacuum loss at highway engine speeds causing the valve to open and allowing coolant to the heater core. You might check the valve again while pulling the throttle open by hand, see if you get some movement.

I'll check it.

 

[GLOCKer]

Ordered a re-manufactured driver window switch assembly to see if that cures my window ills. The driver window didn't work this morning on the way to the airport but it worked on the way back. The passenger windows still only work off the driver door.

 

[GLOCKer]

UGHHHHHH. So this will be the most expensive repair on the ol' Turd to date. It's getting to be that time of year in Georgia where you will roast your cods off if you step outside. I figured I should just bite the bullet and I took the Explorer to a local shop to get the AC diagnosed and possibly fixed. The final verdict: the compressor is going bad. They said they can get it done for under $700, parts and labor. It's a good shop that's been here for 19 years. I'm going to just bite this one. Hopefully it will feel worth it the next time I'm cruising home from a hot day at the lake!

The funny thing is; most people would probably consider investing $700 into a 21 year old car with 159K miles, that's not at all collectible or awesome, as an extreme waste of money. After this, I will be a total of around $2000 to $2100 into this Explorer. That's all in, after 1 year of ownership and repairs (and it was free to start with).

And I actually feel good about that! This past fall, I was leaving Advanced Auto, and there was an old Explorer parked next to me. I ended up talking with the guy, and what he said summed it up for me. He told me he bought his Explorer seven years ago for around $3000. He said that throwing money at it every now and then didn't bother him,because after seven years he had about $5000 in a vehicle that he daily drove. His point was, compare that to the cost of a new vehicle and the required upkeep. Not bad!

 

[Spudhut]

Good advice - the initial cost stinks, believe me, I would feel the same way! ... but you will have a great working AC system for years to come.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, a solid older vehicle is a cheap ride in the long run.


For the AC, I fixed my 91 Lincoln about ten years ago with a similar problem. The diagnosis was the compressor. So I bought the long line which included the drier, plus an aftermarket compressor, for about $250 total. My shop I've dealt with many times before. I brought him the parts and two cans of R12, so he recovered the old freon(was about half full), and I replaced the parts in his parking lot. It took me about two hours to do the parts swapping. He charged me about $110 for labor and new o-rings. I already had the special clamps on the quick connects. So it was near $350 plus my labor and time, more than I wanted to spend, but it fixed it. I cleaned the lines out well with the guidance of my guy, the older Fords had simple round lines, no radiator like internals, so no filter needed.

 

[GLOCKer]

From my other AC related thread:

UH OH! Not good!

I called the shop today just to get a sense of when the Explorer is going to be done so I can make plans for next week. The nice young lady on the phone told me they weren't happy with how it was cooling, but that it'd probably be another 45 minutes for them to figure it out, and then I could pick it up. SWEET!!!

So after a couple of hours, I didn't hear back from the shop. My wife and I decided to knock out the grocery shopping and we hit the road. On the way back from the store, we were driving right by the shop; so we stopped in to check it out.

They said it is cooling but not very well and they are STILL trying to figure it out. I got this much from them (the mechanic that is actually working on it was walking into the bathroom as I was walking up to the shop); it has a new compressor with a "bunch of new stuff that came with it." They also pulled the orifice tube (I'm sure the compressor came with a new one) and flushed out the system. Other than that, she didn't know what to say and offered to let me wait to talk to the mechanic. We had a bunch of meat in the car for tomorrow so I had to jet and couldn't wait.

I'm a little concerned.

 

[gmanpaint]

Did they replace the accumulator?

 

[GLOCKer]

Did they replace the accumulator?

I din't know. What does the accumulator do?

ETA:

This is the same as the dryer? I don't know. When they call me on Tuesday I'll ask. Luckily I'll be driving the patrol car Monday and Tuesday.

 

[gmanpaint]

It is what holds your Freon gas charge.

I have always been told to replace them, along with the orifice tube, when replacing the compressor, or lines. It's not an expensive part at all. Check out Rock Auto for pricing on them.

 

[GLOCKer]

It is what holds your Freon gas charge.

I have always been told to replace them, along with the orifice tube, when replacing the compressor, or lines. It's not an expensive part at all. Check out Rock Auto for pricing on them.

I just edited my initial response. See above! I'm hoping they did if they bought a "kit".

 

[gmanpaint]

A dryer does the same thing as an accumulator. Our rigs have an accumulator. Dryer's are half the size and are located next to the condenser. The accumulator on our rigs are up higher.

If a full rebuild kit was ordered, then it should have been included. Once a line, or the system is opened, the accumulator loses it's filtering ability. The system can be contaminated if not replaced. Its called the black death. Once it takes hold, all parts in the system is done for.

 

[masospaghetti]

Any reputable shop would replace the orifice tube and accumulator at the same time a compressor was done.

Other factors that might reduce cooling performance:

1. Fan clutch (less airflow through the condenser)
2. Dirty evaporator core (debris or leaves)
3. Too much oil in the system (displaces refrigerant)

 

[gmanpaint]

Any reputable shop would replace the orifice tube and accumulator at the same time a compressor was done.

Other factors that might reduce cooling performance:

1. Fan clutch (less airflow through the condenser)
2. Dirty evaporator core (debris or leaves)
3. Too much oil in the system (displaces refrigerant)

I just mentioned the accumulator as I didn't see a mention of it.

If there was too much oil, does this mean the entire system needs evacuated? Just curious.