Randall's SAS #2

 

[Randall]

Wow, the power steering pump reservoir is a bit larger than I had anticipated.

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[jmdirk]

I love how all the size comparisons are with respect to a Guinness beer bottle

 

[Randall]

I had to severely gut a stock 4.0L OHV power steering bracket to get the adapter and PSC Saginaw-style steering pump to fit. Should hold up though, I hope.

I'm also thinking that while I have the front 60 apart, I'm going to convert from 1/2-20 wheel lug studs to 9/16-18 wheel lug studs, to match the rear 60. I can either drill out/attempt to press in Dorman 610-278 wheel studs into the hubs that I have now, or switch over to a late 80's F250 HD Dana 50 hub, which already uses that same wheel stud. Everything else from a dana 60 is supposed to line up on the dana 50 hub.

Or, I may not need to drill out the current hub if there is enough tolerance. According to Dorman, the hole should be .017 to .027 smaller than the size of the knurl. I'll have to take one of my hubs apart and measure how big the stud hole is with my digital caliper and see if it's within tolerance. The 610-278's are .620 at the knurl, so I'll be hoping for a range inbetween .603 and .593. In comparison, the 610-279's that are stock on the 79 Ford D60 are .602 at the knurl, which means it's hole should be .585 to .575 Hmmm, looking at those numbers, it's likely that I'll have to drill the hub out. A 39/64" drill bit is: .609. A 19/32" is .593. That would probably be the best bet.

As far as mounting the wheels goes - I have to either drill out the rectangular valve stem hole to accept a round valve stem, or fork over about $200 to get 4 of the original versions that are used on the wheels. RIght now I'm thinking I'll drill them out. Just need to determine the correct size.

 

[Rick]

My modified bracket has held up fine

 

[Randall]

Good to know. I assume that you had to modify yours similarly with your Howe pump. I wasn't able to find any images on a quick search (searching for 'pump' on anything you've posted in is a bit tedious ). Is that one a Saginaw style, and if so, did you have to use an adapter?

 

[Randall]

Got in some other goodies that no one is likely to see once I get it all together.

Stage 8 X locks
Reid Racing spindle studs & bronze kingpin bushing
Longfield spindle bushings
Extreme axles spindle oil slingers
9/16-18 lug studs
And last but not least, a tasty beverage.


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[Randall]

In case anyone wanted to see the difference between Dana 60 and Dana 44 shafts (also old knuckle next to a new one):

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[Rick]

Beef

 

[Brian1]

Where did you get the lower kingpin caps? I usually weld a piece of thick wall pipe around the grease zerk to protect it but those are pretty nice.

As far as mounting the wheels goes - I have to either drill out the rectangular valve stem hole to accept a round valve stem, or fork over about $200 to get 4 of the original versions that are used on the wheels. RIght now I'm thinking I'll drill them out. Just need to determine the correct size.

I welded my holes shut and drilled them. I want to say it was about .453" but Im not sure. Run by your local auto parts store and find the valvestems, it will tell you what size hole they are for. Dont buy them there though, they are much, much cheaper on ebay. Here are a few pictures and a writeup I did of my Hummer wheels on my local board: http://www.nmoffroad.com/forumvb/showthread.php?t=14012

 

[Randall]

Got the Lower king pin caps from cperry (www.eastcoastgearsupply.com) on pirate. CJ66Dean on pirate makes some as well.

Just read over your wheel build thread. I like your runflats. They looks much easier to deal with than the PVC ones I am using.

Unfortunately, I welded the rock rings (or rather - had welded, since my welds are substandard) already, so the hole location of the valve stem is pretty much set in stone. Did you redrill the new valve stem hole in the same place that you had rewelded over?

What torque was the torque stick you used 'set' for?

 

[Brian1]

Yes I drilled right through the same spot I welded. That way you re-utilize the flat spot so the new stem seats like it should. Unfortunately with the rock ring welded on it is going to be difficult to smooth the weld down on the inside.

Torque specs are: Tighten to 85 ft/lbs initially, then final torque to 125 ft/lbs. (For anyone else reading this these are for the 12 bolt rims only - 6 bolts take less torque)

 

[Tbars4]

..:shifty_ey..ECGS is now a Vendor over here too..
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=356325

[/endjack]

 

[Randall]

Yes, I know that I work slow.

Driver's side knuckle reinstalled after breaking it all down to replace the upper kingpin seal.

Also installed the 9/16-18 studs in the hub and rotor (drilled out the hub with a 39/64" drill bit to fit Dorman 610-278 studs). Now I apparently need a bearing puller to get the old inner spindle bearing out of there so I can throw in the Longfield spindle bushings.

 

[crazyflights]

looking great!!! Should be super strong!

 

[Randall]

 

[Randall]

Got in some coilover hoops from Ballistic Fabrication

Driver's side all buttoned up.

Never mind all of those left over parts...

Finally got all the tires mounted on the H1's after drilling out the square valve stem hole to 5/8" to fit some big ass valve stems.

Obligatory poser tire mock up:

 

[Randall]

Loaded up to take to Texas Auto Gear for some professional welding.

Sitting in the TAG yard next to the Rock Trac.

 

[Tbars4]

..Picture from Demon don't work..

 

[Randall]

Hmmm. That's odd. I'm able to see them from different computers. Oh well, I linked them from elsewhere.

 

[Randall]