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Rattling when accelerating

Any thoughts on where I can get a long block better then stock

Nope. We're not talking small block Chevys or Fords here. It's not like the aftermarket exists for our engines. Someone like Jasper Engine of PowerTrain maybe, but these engines are expensive reman'd.
 



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So i should change my oil and look for chunks?
 






And could it be the timing chain tensioner?
 






Changing the oil wont tell you much. You may see a little grit. I would remove the lower oil pan and see what you find. You'll probably find multiple pieces of tan plastic and maybe some pieces of spring steel.

In my experience, replacing the timing tensioners and making the rattle go away is very unlikely. If you drop the oil pan and find a gritty like substance in the bottom (looks/feels like coarse sand) that's you're timing chains eating their way through your aluminum engine.
 






Ok update. I'm going to get it fixed. But there's something up. The temperature is about 75 right now. The last two days it's been in the 70s. I've noticed the timing chain rattle has been faint. Then today. I start my car I hear no rattle, I drive I hear nothing. Does the outside temperature affect the timing chain noise ? This is freaking me out
 






Ok the noise is back. At times the noise is really loud but this is rare? And the mechanic said it could also be a valve is bad or something. What do you guys think
 












Ok the noise is back. At times the noise is really loud but this is rare? And the mechanic said it could also be a valve is bad or something. What do you guys think

We've told you what we think. Drop the pan and see what you find. If you'd rather listen "some guy" who doesn't own one of these crappy engines rather than people who have already suffered from the "death rattle" I guess we're done here.
 






We've told you what we think. Drop the pan and see what you find. If you'd rather listen "some guy" who doesn't own one of these crappy engines rather than people who have already suffered from the "death rattle" I guess we're done here.
I believe what you guys are saying. I'm just letting you know. And do you know why it doesn't rattle sometimes ? Shouldn't this always happen
 






I was sitting waiting for a soccer practice to end trying to run out gas thinking, crap I hear the rattle they are all talking about. Then I turned off my AC compressor and it went away. My AC compressor sounds like crap and rattles. Given yours is intermittent, maybe it is something else.

That being said, I plan to follows the experts here advice and drop my oil pan with the next oil change. Why not?
 






AC compressor will rattle, it will do it when the defrost is on to dry the air as well.

Death rattle will usually occur at startup due to build up in the tensioners of oil pressure, due to weak springs not holding the cassettes tight. Then it will also occur between 2200rpm and 3000rpm on acceleration to start. Eventually when the cassettes break down more it becomes constant all the time and louder as the chains begin to dig into the aluminum block filling the oil pan with metal shavings and plastic. It also chews out the bolt on the back of the rear guide dumping ground steel into the oil pan. Death rattle also can come from the primary chain guide when the metal spring falls apart, as well as the balance shaft chain when its thin metal spring falls apart. A wonderful design.
 






I was sitting waiting for a soccer practice to end trying to run out gas thinking, crap I hear the rattle they are all talking about. Then I turned off my AC compressor and it went away. My AC compressor sounds like crap and rattles. Given yours is intermittent, maybe it is something else.

That being said, I plan to follows the experts here advice and drop my oil pan with the next oil change. Why not?

The OE 3-post A/C clutches do rattle once thier rubber silencers/insulators deteriorate and fall out. Then the posts rattle and elongate the holes in the clutch hub. I've changed 2 of these A/C clutch hub assemblies and used a different style clutch hub that doesn't have the 3-posts. The new A/C clutch hub assemblies are around $80-$100 from Advance (depending on discount codes) and aren't too hard to change.
 






Why? Simple answer is the OP's lack of experience. Applaud him for trying, but .....
Hey, i'm changing the oil on my own for the first time. I have everything but the socket wrench, what size wrench do I need? And I am also tuning up the truck on my own soon as well for the first time. Or should I watch someone do it before attempting that?
2003 sport trac changing oil for the first time | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations
I just bought a pack of fuses at autozone, i googled before and it said fuse 24 was the fuse for the cigarette lighter, but the pack doesnt have a fuse named 24? help? it has a bunch of 20s and other in it
where is the fuse for the cigarette lighter? 2003 sport trac xlt | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations
 






Found someone that will charge 200 bucks to change timing chain. This is a good deal right
 






But he won't be able to change it for another two weeks. If I drive easy on my truck(including having to get on the freeway) will I be Able to make it
 






Ok the noise is back. At times the noise is really loud but this is rare? And the mechanic said it could also be a valve is bad or something. What do you guys think

I think you need a new mechanic.

It is TIMING CHAIN RATTLE, it is very very very very very very very common with this motor.
 






Found someone that will charge 200 bucks to change timing chain. This is a good deal right
OMG - it is at least $2,000 to replace the timing chains.

For $200 you are getting 1 of the tensioners changed at best.
 












OMG - it is at least $2,000 to replace the timing chains.

For $200 you are getting 1 of the tensioners changed at best.
No he said the complete set. He said get the whole timing chain set which I found for 100 bucks at autozone. I work with him at my job
 



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300 bucks for the OTC timing set, another 300 for parts, 100 for gaskets. 15 hrs to pull the motor. probably 5 hrs to replace and time. Another 15 to put the engine back in and get it running. Not sure where he pulled 200 bucks from. Unless someone has done the job before I wouldn't even think about letting them touch it. This job requires very close attention to detail.
 






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