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"Red Bull"

Red Bull
(Bandit #7)

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Specs:

1998 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer
5.0 V8
4R70W
4.10 D35 Open
4.10 Ford 8.8
Manual 4406
BFG All-Terrain's 285/75/16 (33's)

Mods:

Engine

302 bored .030 over (306)
XE264HR Cam
Dual Valve Springs
OBX Headers
Machined GT40P Heads
Red Powder Coated Intake, Oil Pan, and Valve Covers

New:
Injectors, valve seats and seals, lifters, pushrods

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Steering
2003+ Sport Trac Knuckles
Mevotech TTX TRE's

Brakes
Sport Trac Brake Upgrade:
-12" Rotors (Front)
Ceramic Brake Pads

Lighting
6000k 30w LED's
Clear Headlight Corners and Lenses

Suspension
Warrior Shackles
Add-A-Leafs
2" Torsion Twist
1" Body lift
Bilstein 4600 Shocks
Mevotech TTX Ball Joints and Upper Control Arms
Extended swaybar links

Interior
Limited Steering wheel with redundant radio and digital temp controls
Digital HVAC
Custom leather upholstery (red leather in place of perforated leather)

Electronics/Communications
CB Radio

Exterior
Custom chili pepper red Paint PPG concept
Tupperware removed and holes welded up
"Serious Explorations" license plate frames front and back
Cut and re-welded front fenders 5" to clear larger tires
Limited Color Keyed Front Grill
Painted Rear Bumper
Chopped front bumper bed-lined

Sound
JVC KW-NT300 Nav/DVD/CD head unit
PAC adapter for steering wheel controls
Kicker DS68 6x8 Coaxial speakers
OEM 8" sub
SiriusXM

Exhaust
Flowmaster Super 44

Replaced:
Fuel tank
Cats
Tailpipe
Leaf Springs
Steering Rack
Inner Tie Rods
Front 4.10 Diff
Water Pump
CPS and Synchronizer
Radiator
A/C System
Front O2 Sensors
Muffler
Wheel Bearings
Multiple Fuel Pumps
Motor Mounts
Transmission mount

Rebuilt
Transmission
Engine

Kris' Old Registry
 



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Looks good. I really need to get my tt up to 1.75. I'm less than an inch because my bolts bottomed out. You think without the fender work you have up front I could shove a 285 under there with a 1 inch body lift?

I've run last almost 2 years without any bushings at all on my endlinks... Mine is stable as could be at 100. But i'm also lower than you are too. I'm about to upgrade to poly bushings. Offroading used to kill the rubber ones in a few months so i stopped replacing them.
 



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The amount of stress on the end links with a lift would destroy a rubber bushing or even a poly within a matter of months.

My bolts bottomed out as well, I have a gangsta lean going on right now so I need to get a longer bolt for the driver's side torsion bar.

With the fender work I would not have cleared a 33 with the 1" BL kris put on there. That's why I opted for the shackles and tt. Even with that I was still getting major rub during minor suspension cycling on the front, so I had to get the AALs and max the TT further.

Total lift is about 5" for me and about 2" for you so my stability comes into play much sooner than yours does. However, when I initially got Red Bull it was incredibly stable with the 1" BL and the 31's. It was only when I put the 33's on did it start to become noticeable.
 






Man I haven't updated in almost 2 months. There really isn't anything to report. Lack of funds has pretty much killed any mod or repair work.

Can I mention how much I HATE Fords rear window design on the 98 and up explorers? This is the second time that the bolt has stripped out of the hinge and I didn't even use the window glass since the last repair. I'm thinking of doing helicoil or just JB welding the hell out of it. Either way this is a very frustrating repair.
 






I finally got some things done on Red. First off I picked up a full size spare. Unfortunately I now cannot use the original storage space for it, so I went ahead and threw it on the roof. It looks kind of redneck right now, but later on down the road I will find a way top make it work, and look, a bit better. I also dropped by Fastenal and had them put in an order for two new longer torsion bar bolts, so I can see if can correct my driver's side lean. I will probably also have to swap the leaf packs as well to even out the rear.

Anyway, pics of the new ghetto spare mounting position.

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I finally got some things done on Red. First off I picked up a full size spare. Unfortunately I now cannot use the original storage space for it, so I went ahead and threw it on the roof. It looks kind of redneck right now, but later on down the road I will find a way top make it work, and look, a bit better. I also dropped by Fastenal and had them put in an order for two new longer torsion bar bolts, so I can see if can correct my driver's side lean. I will probably also have to swap the leaf packs as well to even out the rear.

Anyway, pics of the new ghetto spare mounting position.

I like the tire being on the roof! Keep it there! Just make sure that you get a lock for the straps or make a mount to lock it in so that way nobody takes your spare!
 






Thanks, I actually have a bike lock on it now.
 






Did some fixin' on Big Red a week ago. Finished installing a tow hook and putting in the new longer torsion bolts. She now rides almost perfectly level, which is also partly helped by the new sway bar links I installed. Feels like a new truck now that she's not swaying around the road.

I also reinstalled the CB antenna in a better area with a much stronger attachment point. I shouldn't have half-assed it like I did before, but hindsight is 20/20.

Getting closer and closer.

On a side note, my brother's explorer had an unusual issue where the whole bracket for the acceleration pedal tore off the fire wall. I've never heard of that happening and I have been on this forum for 5 years. He is going to have to have it welded back on.
 












Tsb 00-24-03

ISSUE:
The accelerator pedal bracket may become loose or separated from the dash panel on some vehicles. This may be caused by repeated excessive force on the accelerator pedal, resulting in cracking of the dash panel sheet metal at the accelerator pedal bracket.

ACTION:
Repair loose or separated accelerator bracket and/or crack at dash panel. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
Refer to Figure 1 illustration throughout Service Procedure.
  1. Remove accelerator pedal pivot bolt and pedal from bracket.
  2. With bracket placed in original position on dash panel, use the two (2) holes in base of bracket as pilots, and drill two (2) holes in dash panel using a 9mm (11/32") drill.
  3. Examine dash panel on engine side for any cracks related to the attachment failure. If cracks are present, clean the surface with a suitable solvent and apply sealant to the cracks, such as RTV Sealant (F5TZ-19G204-AB).
  4. Apply same sealant on the underside of the head flanges and all around the shanks of two (2) M8x16 hex flange Bolts (W500022-S309).
  5. From inside the vehicle, with bracket held in original position, insert bolts through holes in bracket and dash panel.
  6. On engine side of dash panel, assemble one (1) Flatwasher (391982-S191) (7/16" ID x 1.00" OD), and one (1) M8 prevailing torque hex flange Nut (W520112-S309) on each of the bolts. Tighten nuts to a torque of 27-33N-m (20-24 lb-ft).
  7. Replace pedal and pivot bolt and tighten pivot bolt to a torque of 9-12 N-m (80-108 lb-in).
  8. Check accelerator pedal for proper operation.

PART NUMBER / PART NAME
F5TZ-19G204-ABRTV / Sealant
W500022-S309 / Bolt - Hex Flange (M8x16)
W520112-S309 / Nut - Hex Flange (M8)
391982-S191 / Flatwasher (7/16" ID x 1.00" OD)


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Figure 1 - Article 00-24-3
 






That was the fix I proposed to my brother, but he said he didn't have the time to do it. :rolleyes: Its been my brothers dream to never have to work on cars again if he has the money to have someone else do it.
 






Why do I sense another explorer is coming to Bandit customs lol
 






I haven't mentioned it yet on here, but before the Moab trip I installed a JVC GPS head unit. Man it is so nice! I have it wired up with the steering wheel controls just like my old one. I also did a major clean on the truck. She looks tons better, however I still need to "Joe Dirt" the carpets.
 






Been a long time since I have updated this registry. Since Moab Red bull started deteriorating, rough idle, low power, bogging, and dying. I had to put her on ice and drove the ram for a while. I just recently got my job back at the compressor manufacturer with higher pay and towed Red up to Austin for Bandit Customs to diagnose and fix. With a bunch of troubleshooting and some false starts, Red Bull arrived back in Houston 2 weeks ago.

I still need to put the 33's back on, it has the 31's off the dodge currently. (I needed to take them off to fit on the trailer) I also have a locker on order and some new rims in mind. Big things are coming so don't go away!
 






I'm glad we got you taken care of Dan.
 






Appreciate it Kris.

I am planning on attending Moab again this year. (It is my only vacation) and I have a small list of things that I want improved over last time.

New shocks
Upgrade to 4.10s (Have the front diff, still trying to find a decent rear end)
Rear locker install (Powertrax No-slip on the way)
Change CB mic placement (Kept dropping it while driving)
Move spare into permanent position in Red (Size is rubbing my shocks in the spare tire position)
Some kind of better cargo management for my tools and recovery equipment. (I had stuff bouncing all over the truck)

I am also considering towing a trailer this time around, MAYBE building a cheap teardrop.
 






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Westin Safari Bar on order. Should be here next week.
 






New tool in the shop:

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90A Welder
Welding Cart
Auto Dim Welding Helmet
Welding Gloves
Magnetic Right Angle

All for under $200 at HF. So far the welder works well, but I am still training on it. My welds look uglier than Frankenstein, but they are getting better.
 






I loved the look of my safari bar but it got so smashed up offroad. I bent the tubing on it, jacked up a bracket and pushed it into my bumper. It lowered my approach angle too much...
 






I am going to be making some adjustments to it to fix that.
 



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Got something in the mail yesterday. Thanks Garrett!

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Also flushed the coolant in the Flyer today, I was not aware I was making a witch's brew in my radiator. Yuck!

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