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How to: Replace Front Blend Door Actuator in 3rd Gen Ex.


mobeious

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OK both my rear and front are banging so im guessing im going to be replacing both... my front however will only blow hot air not cold ... is this normal?

is there a wright up on the rear ?
 


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BigRondo

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my front however will only blow hot air not cold ... is this normal?

is there a wright up on the rear ?
This is "normal" if it is stuck on hot. If you do a search on the rear blend door actuator, you should find a bunch of threads. I think there is one with pics.

Good luck with the fix. :biggthump
 




Jandrewsny

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Great!

Your description was great! Took about 45 min hour if you count the precleaning that had to be done. Didn't have to cut out much of the dash at all and took 3 minutes to put the new unit back in??? Thanks so much for this guide you the man. In the process of this fix the air bag code 42 also fixed itself, I guess I will wait to replace the sensor for another time. Joe
 




BigRondo

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Welcome aboard Joe! :salute:

Glad I could help out. :thumbsup:
 




todouble

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Mos

BigRondo-

My enlistment ended 09/22/01. My MOS was 6075 (cryogenics tech) got lucky getting that since my recuiter talked me into going open contract! Originally from Wisconsin, went to bootcamp at MCRD, MCT at Pendleton, school at Cherry Pt., NC, and then sent to Miramar from 98-01. Cool job, awesome place to be stationed, and I'm still out here!! Love San Diego.. Golf, fish, motorcycles, and beer... ah...:smoke:

Take care,
Kirichkow out.
 




todouble

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Oh yea BigRondo, one more thign.. the Patriots SUCK!!.. GO PACK!

GO Sox though:thumbsup:.. Screw the Yanks!!!!:thumbdwn:

ok i'm done.:usa:
 




kohljw

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Great write-up. Saved some serious cake!
 




BigRondo

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BigRondo-

My enlistment ended 09/22/01. My MOS was 6075 (cryogenics tech) got lucky getting that since my recuiter talked me into going open contract! Originally from Wisconsin, went to bootcamp at MCRD, MCT at Pendleton, school at Cherry Pt., NC, and then sent to Miramar from 98-01. Cool job, awesome place to be stationed, and I'm still out here!! Love San Diego.. Golf, fish, motorcycles, and beer... ah...:smoke:

Take care,
Kirichkow out.
Oh yea BigRondo, one more thign.. the Patriots SUCK!!.. GO PACK!

GO Sox though:thumbsup:.. Screw the Yanks!!!!:thumbdwn:

ok i'm done.:usa:

Open contract most always meant infantry. Glad you ended up getting an MOS that you liked. I went to school at NAB Coronado. Really liked the San Diego area.

I agree with you on the Yankees but I have to disagree about the Pats. :p:

:salute: Semper Fi :salute:
 




BigRondo

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MikePierich

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Hi, another new guy here,

I just bought a sweet used 2003 Explorer, only 60K on it...but no heat.

I was thinking it was the actuator...but one fellow posted a video of the actual sound it makes when it goes out...the infamous "clicking".

Mine doesn't do that...it's more of a regular "flop...flop...flop..." as tho the blender door is flipping open and closed.

Any experience with that? Could it simply need a reset of the actuator? I'm going to try pulling the fuse if I can figure out where it is.

Also: is there a way I can get to the door to manually wedge it t get heat til I have time to fix it? I saw where somebody got to it thru the glove box...?

Thanks in advance.
 
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BigRondo

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Hi, another new guy here,

I just bought a sweet used 2003 Explorer, only 60K on it...but no heat.

I was thinking it was the actuator...but one fellow posted a video of the actual sound it makes when it goes out...the infamous "clicking".

Mine doesn't do that...it's more of a regular "flop...flop...flop..." as tho the blender door is flipping open and closed.

Any experience with that? Could it simply need a reset of the actuator? I'm going to try pulling the fuse if I can figure out where it is.

Also: is there a way I can get to the door to manually wedge it t get heat til I have time to fix it? I saw where somebody got to it thru the glove box...?

Thanks in advance.
Welcome aboard Mike! :salute: Sorry it took so long to reply.

Can't say for sure if your issue is the actuator or not. I don't believe there is any way to "reset" the actuator.

According to my owner's manual, the fuse for the blend door actuator is #10 in the passenger compartment fuse panel. It is a 10A fuse. If you don't have an owner's manual, it can be downloaded here.



I think this is the temporary fix thread you are looking for: http://explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=206159

I highly recommend using a Ford actuator as others have had issues with aftermarket actuators. Although replacing the actuator isn't really that bad, you don't want to do it twice because you installed an inferior part.

If you go to your local Ford dealer, they will ask for your VIN to assure you get the correct part. I paid $73.88 including tax at my local Ford dealer. If you want to save a couple of bucks, you can order the part online at several different vendors. Here are a few. Keep in mind that if you don't order a Motorcraft part, you may run into trouble:

www.tousleyford.com is a vendor on our forum and offers parts 10% over cost to forum members.

www.rockauto.com is a vendor on our forum and offers a discount to forum members.

www.fordpartsgiant.com You can enter your VIN they will list parts for your Ex with part numbers.

www.silverstatefordparts.com You can search for parts for your vehicle and ask a question via email before purchasing to ensure you get the correct part. They also require that you include your VIN when ordering.

When you are ready to replace the actuator, Here is the step by step how to.


Good luck and be sure to let us know how you make out! :biggthump
 




MikePierich

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Thanks Rondo. Believe it or not I read the whole thread. :)

Actually, the Honda dealer I bought the Explorer from turned out to be a standup guy...he agreed it's not right to sell a vehicle with no heat. His mechanic thinks it's the actuator...they didn't tear it apart, so I'm not sure if he tested to make sure or not. (can you do that thru the harness?).

Anyhow they're going to replace the actuator...if it turns out to actually be the door itself, I'm going to propose they buy me the HeaterTreater kit and I'll fix it myself. Seems fair, since I didn't buy any extended warranty. And then I'll have both the actuator and the door brand new. win-win.

Thanks again for the thread.



Welcome aboard Mike! :salute: Sorry it took so long to reply.

Can't say for sure if your issue is the actuator or not. I don't believe there is any way to "reset" the actuator.

According to my owner's manual, the fuse for the blend door actuator is #10 in the passenger compartment fuse panel. It is a 10A fuse. If you don't have an owner's manual, it can be downloaded here.



I think this is the temporary fix thread you are looking for: http://explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=206159

I highly recommend using a Ford actuator as others have had issues with aftermarket actuators. Although replacing the actuator isn't really that bad, you don't want to do it twice because you installed an inferior part.

If you go to your local Ford dealer, they will ask for your VIN to assure you get the correct part. I paid $73.88 including tax at my local Ford dealer. If you want to save a couple of bucks, you can order the part online at several different vendors. Here are a few. Keep in mind that if you don't order a Motorcraft part, you may run into trouble:

www.tousleyford.com is a vendor on our forum and offers parts 10% over cost to forum members.

www.rockauto.com is a vendor on our forum and offers a discount to forum members.

www.fordpartsgiant.com You can enter your VIN they will list parts for your Ex with part numbers.

www.silverstatefordparts.com You can search for parts for your vehicle and ask a question via email before purchasing to ensure you get the correct part. They also require that you include your VIN when ordering.

When you are ready to replace the actuator, Here is the step by step how to.


Good luck and be sure to let us know how you make out! :biggthump
 




BigRondo

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Thanks Rondo. Believe it or not I read the whole thread. :)

Actually, the Honda dealer I bought the Explorer from turned out to be a standup guy...he agreed it's not right to sell a vehicle with no heat. His mechanic thinks it's the actuator...they didn't tear it apart, so I'm not sure if he tested to make sure or not. (can you do that thru the harness?).

Anyhow they're going to replace the actuator...if it turns out to actually be the door itself, I'm going to propose they buy me the HeaterTreater kit and I'll fix it myself. Seems fair, since I didn't buy any extended warranty. And then I'll have both the actuator and the door brand new. win-win.

Thanks again for the thread.
You're welcome. :thumbsup: Good luck.
 




i080381

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Just used this to replace the actuator on my 2004 Explorer. Great write up! Thanks!

Paul
 




zeejm

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I replaced the front/driver's side blend door actuator on my 2003 Explorer Limited last week using the excellent info in this post.

My Ex has DATC. I noticed a couple of differences between the excellent info posted here regarding the manual climate control and my vehicle's DATC configuration, so I thought I'd share my observations.

Most of the hex head screws holding my center console in place were actually 10MM heads. Also, I do not have any covers over the rear set of screws that hold the console to the floor at the back of the console, so it was real easy to find the rear set of screws.

I have an additional wiring connector under my center console that connects to the AdvanceTrac switch. It's just one more thing to disconnect when removing the center console.

In my vehicle there's a white plastic duct that routes air to the driver side defroster vents from the lower blower vent area. This duct/conduit passes smack dab over the driver's side actuator. As such I had to disconnect the top section of the duct and then move it out of the way in order to make space to extract the actuator.

There's also a wiring bundle that routes through the same area that I needed to move around to free up space.

I did not need to may any cuts to my dash in order to remove the old actuator or to install the new one, but there's very little room to maneuver the actuator. The only thing that suffered cuts during the entire process were my hands. :)

I didn't have much slack in the actuator's connector cable. I think the hardest part of the entire process was reconnecting the connector after installing the new actuator.

My rationale for replacing the actuator was a combination of the "ticking" symptom and a lack of cold airflow on the driver's side when using A/C. I disassembled my old actuator but didn't seem to have any gear damage. I used the old actuator shaft to test movement of the blend door and did notice the blend door did a bit of sticking in the "full heat"position, but I was able to work the door back and forth several times and free up the movement. I'll have to wait for a warm day to see if this fixes my problem completely.
 




thehunter

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I was going to post a thread asking what would cause banging from inside my dash when I go from cold to hot. But it appears that it is the blend door actuator. This is a great write up and I will look to do this after I do my brakes.

Thanks!
 




matthumm77

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I just did this last night

Great write up! I do have a few things to add though.

I only took off the parts on the drivers side, no need to completely remove the center console.

Removing the black plastic bucket helps to remove the side panel without breakage. In order to do this, you must remove the small bolts holding the center arm rest to get to the two bolts behind it.

I also didn't cut anything. It was a little tricky but I removed the old blend door and installed the new one with no cuts.

It took about two hours to finish with a very curious 7yr old asking questions the whole time:)

Also, try to have some foam padding for your knees, shoulders, back, whatever. You get twisted like a pretzel trying to locate the damn thing and the bolts that hold it in:)
 




derocheda

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BigRondo thanks for this write up. Mine started doing it the other day after 125,000 miles. I will tackle it this weekend
 




BigRondo

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I replaced the front/driver's side blend door actuator on my 2003 Explorer Limited last week using the excellent info in this post.

My Ex has DATC. I noticed a couple of differences between the excellent info posted here regarding the manual climate control and my vehicle's DATC configuration, so I thought I'd share my observations.

Most of the hex head screws holding my center console in place were actually 10MM heads. Also, I do not have any covers over the rear set of screws that hold the console to the floor at the back of the console, so it was real easy to find the rear set of screws.

I have an additional wiring connector under my center console that connects to the AdvanceTrac switch. It's just one more thing to disconnect when removing the center console.

In my vehicle there's a white plastic duct that routes air to the driver side defroster vents from the lower blower vent area. This duct/conduit passes smack dab over the driver's side actuator. As such I had to disconnect the top section of the duct and then move it out of the way in order to make space to extract the actuator.

There's also a wiring bundle that routes through the same area that I needed to move around to free up space.

I did not need to may any cuts to my dash in order to remove the old actuator or to install the new one, but there's very little room to maneuver the actuator. The only thing that suffered cuts during the entire process were my hands. :)

I didn't have much slack in the actuator's connector cable. I think the hardest part of the entire process was reconnecting the connector after installing the new actuator.

My rationale for replacing the actuator was a combination of the "ticking" symptom and a lack of cold airflow on the driver's side when using A/C. I disassembled my old actuator but didn't seem to have any gear damage. I used the old actuator shaft to test movement of the blend door and did notice the blend door did a bit of sticking in the "full heat"position, but I was able to work the door back and forth several times and free up the movement. I'll have to wait for a warm day to see if this fixes my problem completely.
Your'e welcome. Thanks for the info on DATC. I know some have asked about the actuators for this system.!!


I was going to post a thread asking what would cause banging from inside my dash when I go from cold to hot. But it appears that it is the blend door actuator. This is a great write up and I will look to do this after I do my brakes.

Thanks!
Thanks. Good luck with the fix and feel free to ask any questions you may have.


Great write up! I do have a few things to add though.

I only took off the parts on the drivers side, no need to completely remove the center console.

Removing the black plastic bucket helps to remove the side panel without breakage. In order to do this, you must remove the small bolts holding the center arm rest to get to the two bolts behind it.

I also didn't cut anything. It was a little tricky but I removed the old blend door and installed the new one with no cuts.

It took about two hours to finish with a very curious 7yr old asking questions the whole time:)

Also, try to have some foam padding for your knees, shoulders, back, whatever. You get twisted like a pretzel trying to locate the damn thing and the bolts that hold it in:)
Thank you. Glad you got it fixed.


BigRondo thanks for this write up. Mine started doing it the other day after 125,000 miles. I will tackle it this weekend
Your'e welcome. Good luck with the fix and feel free to ask any questions you may have.
 


Join the Elite Explorers for $20 per year. Gets rid of the ads! New $5 per month "try out" option.

Explorer Forum has probably saved you that much already, and will continue to save you money as you learn how to diagnose fix problems yourself and learn which modifications work without having to experiment on your own. Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments in all forums, and Media Gallery, create and save more private Conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.




mobeious

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just removed my blend door box and the gears were stripped ... but since i live in FL and rarely use my heat i just took the blend arm and stuck it in and turned so its on cold " it was stuck on hot" i just left the rod in there without the rest of the unit ... this is just a temp thing tell i can get up the dealer and buy the box .. but it works... now if i can just figure out why it isnt blowing "ice" cold ....
 




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