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How to: Replace Front Blend Door Actuator in 3rd Gen Ex.


Exproblems

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>>>>>>>>>
now if i can just figure out why it isnt blowing "ice" cold ....
>>>>>>>>>>>>>

You may have a "air recirculation door" problem. It is located above the blower motor, which is located behind your glove box. The air recirculation door unit is at the top, just under the bottom side of the dashboard. This door tends to fall off of it's hinge pins and drop down in the air box blocking air flow to some vents, affecting the AC and Max AC coldness. There are posts in here on how to fix this, just use the search box to find them. It is a big job to do, you have to partially remove the dashboard to get at it. You also could be low on refrigerant in the AC unit.
 


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JESSIJAMES

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How To: Replace Blend Door Actuator in 3rd Gen. Ex

Hi. I know this is an old post but just thought I'd put in my 2 cents. My problem started with a clicking sound and then it would make a banging sound when the heat kicked in. Took it to my mechanic, who fixed it at the cost of $979 (that was with a 5% discount!). Well guess what? I don't have heat and it's making the clicking noise again. The really lousy thing about all this..............it was covered for 1 year/12,000 miles. I am already well over the 12,000 mile mark. I drive 35-40,000 miles per year and currently have almost 237,000 miles on my baby. I guess I'll be doing it myself this time, so I just want to give a big thanks to BigRondo for his step-by-step instructions cause I'm gonna need them! Lol! :usa:
 




BigRondo

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Hi. I know this is an old post but just thought I'd put in my 2 cents. My problem started with a clicking sound and then it would make a banging sound when the heat kicked in. Took it to my mechanic, who fixed it at the cost of $979 (that was with a 5% discount!). Well guess what? I don't have heat and it's making the clicking noise again. The really lousy thing about all this..............it was covered for 1 year/12,000 miles. I am already well over the 12,000 mile mark. I drive 35-40,000 miles per year and currently have almost 237,000 miles on my baby. I guess I'll be doing it myself this time, so I just want to give a big thanks to BigRondo for his step-by-step instructions cause I'm gonna need them! Lol! :usa:
Welcome aboard! :salute: Thanks for the kind words.

I purchased the Blend Door Actuator from my Ford Dealer. Cost was $70.00. I highly recommend purchasing it at the dealer as others have had problems with the ones purchased at auto parts stores. VIN is required to ensure you get the proper part.

Pay particular attention to step 7: Install New Blend Door Actuator, to ensure the new actuator is working correctly and is in the proper position prior to installation.

Feel free to ask as many questions as you like. Good luck with the fix and be sure to keep us posted! :)
 




StricklandUSN

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Blend Door Help in San Diego

Hey Everyone Im currently deployed in Cuba until 2012. I live in san diego, is there anyone who has done this blend door fix who i could pay to come out and do it at my home. I would attempt it myself I will be coming home from 16th until 29th of July 2011 for a R&R in which i will be seeing my new baby girl for the first time and celebrating my sons 5th bday all in this short time I just dont want to spend the extra time in case somthin doesnt work out. If i were home and not deployed this wouldnt be a problem. I just want to make sure my wife and kids have heat for the winter because right now they got nothing. I can pay somone to come out and help me out if you can get it done in a few hours. ill obviously pay for the part and i have tools. Just name your price and make it fair. This is a 2004 xlt 4.0 flex fuel explorer. This is the most pressing issue for me But if you also have knowledge to do upper ball joints and brakes for a decent price I need those done too but they will be fine until i come home next march otherwise. Looking for Help in my time of need not looking for handouts just some help that will be compensated fairly. Im in mission valley so anyone close to there would be prefered so you dont gotta drive far. email would work better for me Stingerafh@hotmail.com it would have to be done during the time frame above 16july to 29 july i come in late on 16th tho and leave afternoon on 29th. thanks otherwise ill be attemping the fix on my own when id rather be spending the time with the kids.
 




BigRondo

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Hey Everyone Im currently deployed in Cuba until 2012. I live in san diego, is there anyone who has done this blend door fix who i could pay to come out and do it at my home. I would attempt it myself I will be coming home from 16th until 29th of July 2011 for a R&R in which i will be seeing my new baby girl for the first time and celebrating my sons 5th bday all in this short time I just dont want to spend the extra time in case somthin doesnt work out. If i were home and not deployed this wouldnt be a problem. I just want to make sure my wife and kids have heat for the winter because right now they got nothing. I can pay somone to come out and help me out if you can get it done in a few hours. ill obviously pay for the part and i have tools. Just name your price and make it fair. This is a 2004 xlt 4.0 flex fuel explorer. This is the most pressing issue for me But if you also have knowledge to do upper ball joints and brakes for a decent price I need those done too but they will be fine until i come home next march otherwise. Looking for Help in my time of need not looking for handouts just some help that will be compensated fairly. Im in mission valley so anyone close to there would be prefered so you dont gotta drive far. email would work better for me Stingerafh@hotmail.com it would have to be done during the time frame above 16july to 29 july i come in late on 16th tho and leave afternoon on 29th. thanks otherwise ill be attemping the fix on my own when id rather be spending the time with the kids.
I would be happy to help out, but unfortunately I'm on the other coast. If you do end up doing it yourself, it shouldn't take more than 2 hours. Just follow this write-up and you should be good to go. I highly recommend getting the actuator from the dealer as others have had issues with an aftermarket actuator purchased from the local parts stores. The VIN is required to ensure you get the correct part.

I hope everything works out for you. Thanks for your service. Stay safe. :salute:
 




leov5

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Rondo, this is a wonderful write up and very detailed. Was very helpful in getting my console apart to replace the passenger side accuator. By the way the accuator for the auto climate control is only $49.00, but I got them down to $42.00 because I am a friend of an employee at the Ford dealer, I have '02Mountaineer. I would have finshed this job in about 2.5 hours except that the accuator in Monty still worked. I assumed (I know bad word) that it was this that was causing the low cool on the passenger side and I also thought that the rear blend dooor was bad also. Well it goes to show that you should always start at the most obvious place first. My system was low on feon, HAHAHAHA on me. $95.00 dollars later it is as cold as the first day I got her. Still this thread has been a wonderful read and a learning experience. Thank you.

If any one is looking for a DCCV accuator for a 2002-2004, I have one for sale. It is the same one for both sides of the front.

By the way the upper door has fallen off its hinge and I searching for thread on how to fix that next.
 




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ptrcrch

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Mine Broke last November and I had the heat stuck on high. I then pulled the temp knob off so no one could change the setting. This spring i finally set it on cold. The other morning I turned it to hot and got the friendly reminder "Click, Click, Click". Awsome write up and I plan on tackleing this with your write up this week.
 




BigRondo

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Mine Broke last November and I had the heat stuck on high. I then pulled the temp knob off so no one could change the setting. This spring i finally set it on cold. The other morning I turned it to hot and got the friendly reminder "Click, Click, Click". Awsome write up and I plan on tackleing this with your write up this week.
Welcome aboard!! :salute:

Good luck with the fix!! :D:thumbsup:

Please keep us posted as feedback helps others reading this post looking for a fix to the same or similar issue!
 




UCRED

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I replaced the front/driver's side blend door actuator on my 2003 Explorer Limited last week using the excellent info in this post.

My Ex has DATC. I noticed a couple of differences between the excellent info posted here regarding the manual climate control and my vehicle's DATC configuration, so I thought I'd share my observations.

Most of the hex head screws holding my center console in place were actually 10MM heads. Also, I do not have any covers over the rear set of screws that hold the console to the floor at the back of the console, so it was real easy to find the rear set of screws.

I have an additional wiring connector under my center console that connects to the AdvanceTrac switch. It's just one more thing to disconnect when removing the center console.

In my vehicle there's a white plastic duct that routes air to the driver side defroster vents from the lower blower vent area. This duct/conduit passes smack dab over the driver's side actuator. As such I had to disconnect the top section of the duct and then move it out of the way in order to make space to extract the actuator.

There's also a wiring bundle that routes through the same area that I needed to move around to free up space.

I did not need to may any cuts to my dash in order to remove the old actuator or to install the new one, but there's very little room to maneuver the actuator. The only thing that suffered cuts during the entire process were my hands. :)

I didn't have much slack in the actuator's connector cable. I think the hardest part of the entire process was reconnecting the connector after installing the new actuator.

My rationale for replacing the actuator was a combination of the "ticking" symptom and a lack of cold airflow on the driver's side when using A/C. I disassembled my old actuator but didn't seem to have any gear damage. I used the old actuator shaft to test movement of the blend door and did notice the blend door did a bit of sticking in the "full heat"position, but I was able to work the door back and forth several times and free up the movement. I'll have to wait for a warm day to see if this fixes my problem completely.
ZEEJM,

I have a similar issue with a Mountineer with DATC. I am good on the driver side but I have no cold on the passenger side. The boss is not happy!

turning the dual control on or off does not effect it.

So changing the actuator fix the problem? I assume there is one on the right for the pass and the left is for the driver, correct?

I need to fix this quickly before my wife just takes it to the dealer.

Thanks in advance for the help.


Big Rondo -- Great write-up. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge with everyone.
 




BigRondo

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ZEEJM,

I have a similar issue with a Mountineer with DATC. I am good on the driver side but I have no cold on the passenger side. The boss is not happy!

turning the dual control on or off does not effect it.

So changing the actuator fix the problem? I assume there is one on the right for the pass and the left is for the driver, correct?

I need to fix this quickly before my wife just takes it to the dealer.

Thanks in advance for the help.


Big Rondo -- Great write-up. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge with everyone.
You are welcome. :thumbsup: Welcome aboard!! :salute:

I would check out these threads before you assume that it is the actuator:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=324562

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=323725

Good luck with the fix. :D:thumbsup:

Please keep us posted as feedback helps others reading this post looking for a fix to the same or similar issue!
 




Hanky Pank

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Unbelievable!

Best write up I've ever seen. Only thing that would make the job easier is if someone did it for me!
 




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UCRED

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After reading all the treads and performing a self-diagnosis on the DATC, I went and had the freon level tested. It was low and of course there was a leak in the line. $400 later I have cold air out of the both passenger and driver side vents.

However the air is only cold on the passenger when the blower is as high as it will go. When you turn it down it blows warm on that side only.

I am guessing since this has dual control that there would be an actuator for each side as well as the blend door.

I wife is the primary driver and she does not remember any clicking noises.

Any suggestions before I just start buying parts?

Thanks in advance for any help.
 




BigRondo

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After reading all the treads and performing a self-diagnosis on the DATC, I went and had the freon level tested. It was low and of course there was a leak in the line. $400 later I have cold air out of the both passenger and driver side vents.

However the air is only cold on the passenger when the blower is as high as it will go. When you turn it down it blows warm on that side only.

I am guessing since this has dual control that there would be an actuator for each side as well as the blend door.

I wife is the primary driver and she does not remember any clicking noises.

Any suggestions before I just start buying parts?

Thanks in advance for any help.
I am not familiar with the dual setup since I don't have it. I do believe there are 2 actuators with that system, but don't quote me on that.

Maybe you will find the info you are looking for by searching for DATC.

Good luck and please keep us posted as feedback helps others reading this post looking for a fix to the same or similar issue!
 




Exproblems

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Hey Big Rondo,

I just wanted to say thanks again" for your write up on how to repair a Blend Door Actuator on the" 02-05 Explorers. Your instructions to do this fix were right on the money! I had one problem though as I attempted to repair this myself, my big shoulders, chest and 270lb body(from decades of eating chicken wings, I live in Buffalo can't avoid them :) and from 30 years of lifting weights in the gym wouldn't allow me the room and flexibility to reach up under driver side floor boards and dash to remove the Actuator itself, so I gave up and called my mechanic to finish the removal and installation of the new Actuator. I got as far as removing the console and harness plugs, dash bracket and plastic heat vent in about 35 minutes, but just didn't see enough room for me to get in ther properly for the Actuator removal. There was very little room between the back side of the dash and Actuator, could barely get my finger behind the dash. I thought of cutting out the dash like in your pics, but I didn't think it would give "me" that much more room to work with. My mechanic quoted me over the phone about an hour labor ($75) to R&R the Actuator only(I told him I would reinstall the console and other parts), so I took it to him today for the repair. I tested it and it works great now. It actually took him (his helper did it) 3 hours to do it, was tougher than he predicted, but he said he would only charge me 1 1/2 hours labor and asked me if I was okay with it and I said yes. I trust the guy, he's honest. I wasn't freaked out by it anyhow, because I still got it done a lot cheaper than the $680 the Ford Dealership quoted my a few months ago. The Actuator cost me $88 tax incl at a local Ford Dealership and $120 for labor tax incl or $208 for everything, not counting my own R&R on the console parts but I'm retired and have nothing but time. I also purchased the Actuator from Ford using my VIN number as you have reminded people to do. If I was a little smaller built and flexible, I probably could have completed the job myself following your excellent instructions. My mechanic was also impressed with your detailed instructions and photo's of each step to follow. I showed him the copy of your post I printed up a while back. Thanks again!
I do have one question for you, while I was removing the upper half of the center console and I got down to the wiring harnesses for the console buttons, I noticed an orange colored harness plug that was not connected to anything and it was taped off against the side of some harness wires. Do you know what device that orange colored harness plug would be connected to if I had that device in my Explorer? Just curious here. Thanks again for the past help!
BTW, Congrats on your Bruins winning THE CUP! I'm a diehard Sabres fan since their inception in 1970, but I was rooting for the Bruins verus the Canucks since I could not stand to see the Canadian fans riot worse had they won the cup, than they did losing it. It reminded me of my younger days working as a bouncer in downtown Buffalo nightclubs and having to throw numerous drunken Canadians out of the bar after Montreal or Toronto verus Sabre games on a friday or Saturday home game. Watch out for my Sabres this year, great new owner with loads $$$$ of money and isn't afraid to spend it on quality players. Gonna be an interesting season.
 




kelley001

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thank you -actuator instructions

Big Rondo,
I wanted to say thanks for the perfect instructions on how to install the blend door actuator. My 17 yr old son and 22 yr old almost son-in-law installed it today with your tutorial.

It took them about 1 1/2 hours and they didn't have to cut the dash.....and it works perfectly. They put it all back together the right way, you can't even tell anything was done.

Again, thanks you've saved me a ton of money.....I bought them dinner. I bought the part at the dealership which was $86. So if anyone else out there is contemplating doing this, go ahead -if a 17 and 22 yr old can do it then anyone who can follow directions can.

Thank you!!!! ;)
 




BigRondo

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Hey Big Rondo,

I just wanted to say thanks again" for your write up on how to repair a Blend Door Actuator on the" 02-05 Explorers. Your instructions to do this fix were right on the money! I had one problem though as I attempted to repair this myself, my big shoulders, chest and 270lb body(from decades of eating chicken wings, I live in Buffalo can't avoid them :) and from 30 years of lifting weights in the gym wouldn't allow me the room and flexibility to reach up under driver side floor boards and dash to remove the Actuator itself, so I gave up and called my mechanic to finish the removal and installation of the new Actuator. I got as far as removing the console and harness plugs, dash bracket and plastic heat vent in about 35 minutes, but just didn't see enough room for me to get in ther properly for the Actuator removal. There was very little room between the back side of the dash and Actuator, could barely get my finger behind the dash. I thought of cutting out the dash like in your pics, but I didn't think it would give "me" that much more room to work with. My mechanic quoted me over the phone about an hour labor ($75) to R&R the Actuator only(I told him I would reinstall the console and other parts), so I took it to him today for the repair. I tested it and it works great now. It actually took him (his helper did it) 3 hours to do it, was tougher than he predicted, but he said he would only charge me 1 1/2 hours labor and asked me if I was okay with it and I said yes. I trust the guy, he's honest. I wasn't freaked out by it anyhow, because I still got it done a lot cheaper than the $680 the Ford Dealership quoted my a few months ago. The Actuator cost me $88 tax incl at a local Ford Dealership and $120 for labor tax incl or $208 for everything, not counting my own R&R on the console parts but I'm retired and have nothing but time. I also purchased the Actuator from Ford using my VIN number as you have reminded people to do. If I was a little smaller built and flexible, I probably could have completed the job myself following your excellent instructions. My mechanic was also impressed with your detailed instructions and photo's of each step to follow. I showed him the copy of your post I printed up a while back. Thanks again!
I do have one question for you, while I was removing the upper half of the center console and I got down to the wiring harnesses for the console buttons, I noticed an orange colored harness plug that was not connected to anything and it was taped off against the side of some harness wires. Do you know what device that orange colored harness plug would be connected to if I had that device in my Explorer? Just curious here. Thanks again for the past help!
BTW, Congrats on your Bruins winning THE CUP! I'm a diehard Sabres fan since their inception in 1970, but I was rooting for the Bruins verus the Canucks since I could not stand to see the Canadian fans riot worse had they won the cup, than they did losing it. It reminded me of my younger days working as a bouncer in downtown Buffalo nightclubs and having to throw numerous drunken Canadians out of the bar after Montreal or Toronto verus Sabre games on a friday or Saturday home game. Watch out for my Sabres this year, great new owner with loads $$$$ of money and isn't afraid to spend it on quality players. Gonna be an interesting season.

No problem at all! :D:thumbsup: Glad I could help out.

I believe the orange connector is for the cigarette lighter if you have the smoker's package:

1dDisconnectPowerSources.jpg


I was real happy that the B's won the cup! Good luck to the Sabres this year. ;)
 




BigRondo

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Big Rondo,
I wanted to say thanks for the perfect instructions on how to install the blend door actuator. My 17 yr old son and 22 yr old almost son-in-law installed it today with your tutorial.

It took them about 1 1/2 hours and they didn't have to cut the dash.....and it works perfectly. They put it all back together the right way, you can't even tell anything was done.

Again, thanks you've saved me a ton of money.....I bought them dinner. I bought the part at the dealership which was $86. So if anyone else out there is contemplating doing this, go ahead -if a 17 and 22 yr old can do it then anyone who can follow directions can.

Thank you!!!! ;)
Welcome aboard!! :salute:

Glad I could help out!
 


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Exproblems

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Big Rondo,

>>>>>>>>>I believe the orange connector is for the cigarette lighter if you have the smoker's package:>>>>>>

I do not have a cigarette lighter on my console (not a smoker anyhow), so that must be what that orange colored plug is for. Thanks for the tip. All of my plug connections to the console are now connected to their power sources and working fine. When I removed the upper console, I found every plug harness disconnected and the plugs were just laying loose under the console. This the reason my Advance Trac off button never worked when I tried activating it a few months ago, but it works fine now. I think the person who owned this vehicle before me must have had kids or something that were playing with the buttons on the console so he disconnected them. The strange things you find when you buy a second hand vehicle. Thanks for that photo by the way.

>>>>>>>>>>I was real happy that the B's won the cup! Good luck to the Sabres this year. ;)>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Thanks, same to you on the Bruins as defending champs.
 
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B 2002 Explorer - repair or replace? Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers 6
imp Replace ABS Module Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers 12
H How to replace the blend door? Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers 11
D Replace timing sprockets or not? Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers 1
F Do I need to remove timing chain to replace my head gaskets? Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers 13
P Should I replace the Explorer Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers 13
S I dont want to replace the rear hub/bearings. Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers 15
2 Replacing Struts – anything else I should replace while I’m there? Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers 4
W 4.0L SOHC - repair or replace? Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers 3

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