How to: Replace Front Blend Door Actuator in 3rd Gen Ex.

[Goga]

Заменил. Работает! Спасибо.

 

[dochollidaydds]

Great step by step instructions, excellent imaging. (*) See my footnote below after reading.

One thought. You used your finger to locate the bottom actuator bolt in Fig 6.g.2. Since you had an excellent reference point to access this bolt, simply measuring the distance with a tape measure, you could have used a hole saw, about a 3/8 - 1/2", drilled out an access hole, and used a plastic hole plug to cover the new pilot hole.

Lots of colors are available for the hole plug at dealerships or aftermarket. One could probably find a matching colored hole plug from Ford, albeit maybe a different size, which could be drilled out to match the new colored plug. See if they have one that matches, size up your hole saw before cutting your dash. A mismatched hole plug really sucks.

Once drilled out, you'd have straight visual access to this hard to reach bolt with a 1/4" drive ratchet. Its an 8mm, not 10mm.

This would eliminate cutting the edge of the dashboard trim, and remove the risk of cracking the plastic trim due to vibration of the dash later down the road.

(*) Before you decide, out of frustration impatience, to cut drill or crack pieces of the dash off covering this bolt, try my method first, covered in my next blog.
Page 25.

Damaging the dash is easily avoidable. The dealers do this all the time without messing up the dash. Don't think for a minute that they're going to pull the entire dash to get access to the BDA. Time is money.

However, if you are an itinerate speed demon, impatient, or just want a quick and dirty, and just have fewer skill sets to tackle this project, drill out the dash, get a hole plug. Problem solved.

Thank you for this excellent tutorial, I imagine there really isn't a much easier way to tackle this varmint. Regards, Doc

 

[vzepol]

Wow!!! I will doing this repair this coming weekend. Only work in the Max Air setting and just makes a clicking noise when either the function or temp setting is changed. It makes sense that there are some broken teeth on the gear.
Thank you for the informative post.

 

[dochollidaydds]

Okay, I did this repair. It went far easier than I thought. Number one thing is to remove the faceplate air vent panel covering the radio. You still have to pull the console, the driver side dash base panel. No easy way around this, unless your version allows you to pop the Velcro retained side panels off the center console. If you just don't have the skill sets, simply drill that 1/2" hole I discussed.

Take care not to ram the drill or manhandle it with a lot of force while drilling the access hole. Just slowly penetrate to the point of cutting , but don't allow the drill to push past the panel. Let the drill do the work.
There's a quick disconnect plug and wiring attached to the blend actuator, and you don't want to add insult to injury by cutting or nicking the wiring harness.

Try avoid drilling or cutting the dash. Take out the vent panel covering the radio. Once removed, put your hand up into the dash access and feel for the blend actuator top end. Your hand will fit up there, I have big hands, so you can do it too.
Shine a flashlight into the lower left of the opening of the front dash vent/radio cover opening you removed so you can actually see the elusive third bolt through the aur vent panel opening. There you will see the top blend actuator bolt. Get your hand up there where you think that bolt is hiding, and your fingers will be visible through the vent panel facing opening. Use a flashlight.

You can see the top of the bolt on the lower left of the access opening. Once you visualize, you can put an 8 mm speed wrench on it underneath the bottom dash opening on the left near steering column with just a little finesse. Getting the two lower bolts out is a snap, easily done from the side. Once you see the top bolt, get that 8mm speedwrench on it. Its not quick to spin out, but will take only a minute or two. Really. Once actuator is loose, remove electric 2-wire connector, rotate and pull back to remove under the dash. You might have to press up a bit to clear the driveshaft on the actuator from the keyway in the vent door.

My recommendation is seat the new blend actuator, top bolt first, inserting the assembly in reverse order of removal. Spin, twist and reorient the new actuator in place. Only goes in one way. Working from both sides top and bottom with good light, seat that top bolt gently. And I mean gently. The actuator being plastic, well, that should be a no brainer.

Remember that gently seating the bolts is good enough. Don't over tighten these bolts, or you'll strip the thread holding the bolt down against the blend actuator, or worse, crack the actuator assembly recess holes that hold the bolt.

Bottom line... If you do it this way, you don't have to drill, crack, break or cut the dash.

This is the only way to do it like the dealership does. No one tells you to remove the radio/vent panel to visualize the top bolt.
That's how they do it without removing the entire dashboard. Good luck, Doc.

PS. Plug in your new actuator first to check function with car turned on. Imagine your surprise if you put it all back together, and the damn thing is defective or wrong part number!!!

 

[dochollidaydds]

Прекрасный,познавательный отчет! Завтра буду менять на своей машине по Вашей инструкции. Спасибо.

English dude..... English. This is an American post.

 

[dochollidaydds]

Rebuild kit from Amazon. Doesn't require replacing the entire actuator. 20 bucks versus 50+. Worth a look.
The culprit is a plastic gear grinding against a brass wormscrew gear. This one will probably outlast the rest of the service life of your Explorer.
https://www.amazon.com/Actuator-Rebuild-Lincoln-Mercury-1990-2012/dp/B01FIIWM90/ref=sm_n_au_dka_US_pr_olt_0_0?sigts=1480856745180&sig=8d0062e421761b91aa850d5357b3f86c08e2345a&adId=B01FIIWM90&creativeASIN=B01FIIWM90&linkId=ff52507b7a3252d0c44a8f3345f3e168&tag=seriouexplor_native103016-20&linkCode=w41&ref-refURL=http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php&slotNum=0&imprToken=UMw4NVvwc184L8C-uC3p7w

 

[wayver]

Just looked at your post "AWESOME" with all the pics and info. I'm convinced this is what is wrong with my 02 Eddie Bauer. I have heat and can feel it around the console by legs. The fan blows and I can switch through all the modes and air blows out all vents but the heat is nil to just comfortable. The rear heater is fine and puts out lots of heat so that ruled out other issues. This is the only other thing it could be......... I'm hoping! At close to 40 degrees below zero today I had enough heat but no where near what it should be.

 

[vzepol]

Rebuild kit from Amazon. Doesn't require replacing the entire actuator. 20 bucks versus 50+. Worth a look.
The culprit is a plastic gear grinding against a brass wormscrew gear. This one will probably outlast the rest of the service life of your Explorer.
https://www.amazon.com/Actuator-Rebuild-Lincoln-Mercury-1990-2012/dp/B01FIIWM90/ref=sm_n_au_dka_US_pr_olt_0_0?sigts=1480856745180&sig=8d0062e421761b91aa850d5357b3f86c08e2345a&adId=B01FIIWM90&creativeASIN=B01FIIWM90&linkId=ff52507b7a3252d0c44a8f3345f3e168&tag=seriouexplor_native103016-20&linkCode=w41&ref-refURL=http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php&slotNum=0&imprToken=UMw4NVvwc184L8C-uC3p7w

My kit came in early this week.
I followed the instructions at the beginning of this thread. They were perfect.
One note on the blender the tabs are on all four sides. I found that if I slid a feeler gauge under the tab, I was able to get the lid off with no damage.
The whole job took about 3 hours, including a break for lunch.
Thank you for the info.
V.

 

[PinballScottExplorer]

Rondo,
Your detailed instruction are exactly what I'm looking for! However, the pictures no longer seem to be available for viewing. Can you repost the pictures OR send them to me (I can send you my email account).
Thanks,
Scott

 

[JW]

I'm about to start the assembly phase of this process on the 2004. I got the kit from Amazon, and was able to replace the stripped gear with no issues. I also did it without cutting the dash, and just now saw Big Al's tip about removing the captive nuts from the support brace. Reassembly in the morning.

 

[steveatthebeach]

Started this journey about 2 hours ago, it's still a work in progress. I managed to remove the old actuator, and decided to open it up to see where the problem was. The first pic shows the actuator after opening it up. the red line points to the gear in question with one of the teeth off at the other end. The second pic show the other "missing" teeth. Doing this in an 02 XLT isn't as easy as I hoped, I've had to become a 62 y.o. contortionist. I wonder how much Ford actually saved by using cheap plastic gears over conventional brass gears?. The last pic shows the culprit gear in question, the missing teeth are at approximately 1:00 o'clock in the gear.

Yes, I know, I need to paint my front porch.

 

[JW]

Yeah, one of the hardest parts is figuring out the yoga poses you need to get into so you can reach the thing. I almost pulled the driver's seat out so I could lay on the floor.

 

[steveatthebeach]

Yeah, one of the hardest parts is figuring out the yoga poses you need to get into so you can reach the thing. I almost pulled the driver's seat out so I could lay on the floor.

I considered that, but came to the conclusion that it wouldn't have helped that much. The best part is, I have heat now! And a big thanks to everyone that contributed to this post, otherwise I never would have attempted it.

 

[JeffD11N]

Big Rondo,

I have an 04 that seems to have a blend door problem. I have heat but it's just not hot enough. I was able to fisha bore scope down the center vents and could see the door move. When it goes over to the heat side it just barley touches the foam seal. It appears to be leaking cold air around the seal as I can move the door with the tab behind the glove box. Just doesn't seem to go shut far enough. I have flushed the core, replaced a broken recirc door, blew air through the vents, and even scoped the fan vent to make sure nothing from the recirc door made it into the evaporator.

Your pictures are telling me to go to my account and allow third party hosting. Can you give me a kick as I can not find that anywhere in the account tabs?

 

[Frank Martini]

Yeah Boy! I could not get to the pictures either. But I struggled through replacing the actuator.

 

[dsprint2000]

So, quick question. Have an 02 Eddie Bauer that has dual zone. Is it the same instructions?

David

 

[LoKo498]

What happened to all the pictures?
I did this 2 times in my explorer, 02 xlt & I never had to cut any part of the dash.
Hardest part was getting under there to the right position to get out then get the new one back in.

 

[JW]

Photobucket changed their TOS and killed remote linking unless you pay $400/year.

I also did mine without cutting the dash. I only had to remove the captive nuts from the brace between the dash structure and the trans tunnel. After that, the trickiest part was determining how to orient the module as it snakes in or out of the dash. Took me over an hour to get it out, two minutes to swap out the stripped gear, and less than fifteen minutes to put it all back together.

 

[steveatthebeach]

I realize I'm late to this parade, but I'm certain I bought the wrong actuator as the new one did not have the circuit board inside and all I'm getting is heat regardless of what I set the the temp to. Does anyone have the correct part number for the front actuator? FYI, I do not have the automatic climate control.

A big THANK-YOU in advance for anyone that can solve this riddle

 

[Gempiexplorer]

This is my how to for replacing the blend door actuator on the 3rd Gen Ex. The Blend Door Actuator controls the hot/cold temperature in the vehicle, not where the air is blowing from or fresh air/recirculated air. While researching this issue I found several discussions, but no definitive how to. I used this post as a guide: 3rd gen Explorer Blend Door Actuator Replacement. Even with this excellent post by ColdnFrosty, I was “flying blind”. That has lead us to this write up.

I purchased the Blend Door Actuator from my Ford Dealer. Cost was $70.00.

I recommend purchasing it at the dealer as others have had problems with the ones purchased at auto parts stores.

VIN is required to ensure you get the proper part.

This procedure involves cutting the dash. The part of the dash I cut out is not visible with the center console back in the Ex. Some have replaced the actuator without cutting the dash. Whether or not you cut the dash is a decision you will have to make. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE OR UNWANTED MODIFICATIONS YOU DO TO YOUR VEHICLE. YOU ASSUME ALL RESPONSIBILITY FOR CUTTING YOUR DASHBOARD. ATTEMPT THIS INSTALL AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Be Sure To Check Out My Other Write-Ups:

How To: Remove/Replace 3rd Gen Door Panel

How To: Install Signal Mirrors On 3rd Gen Ex

How To: Restore Faded, Yellowing Headlights

How To: Replace Multifunction Switch in 3rd Gen Ex

How To: Paint Rear Pillar Trim

How To: Replace 3rd Gen Ambient Air Temperature Sensor

How To: Test a Relay

How To: Remove/Replace 3rd Gen Center Console


Tools Required:

1. 7MM Socket
2. 8MM Socket
3. 10MM Socket
4. 10MM Deep Socket
5. Socket Driver Handle
6. Ratchet
7. Extension
8. 8MM Box-End Wrench
9. Utility Knife
10. Large Slotted Screwdriver
11. Butter Knife of Putty Knife

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Parts Required:

1. Blend Door Actuator

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View attachment 234269

2. Electrical Tape

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Blend Door Actuator Replacement Detailed Instructions:

1. Remove Center Console Upper Half

1.a. Remove rubber mat

View attachment 234271

1.b. Remove screw under mat – 7MM socket required

View attachment 234272

1.c. Pry from rear and pull out console upper half

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1.d. Disconnect front power point connector & extra power source connector (Cigarette Lighter?)

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1.e. View with upper half removed

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2. Remove Center Console Lower Half

2.a. Disconnect rear power point connector

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2.b. Pop off rear power point connector with screwdriver – be careful not to damage connector

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2.c. Pop off harness with screwdriver – be careful not to damage any wires

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2.d. Remove 2 front screws – 8MM socket required

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2.e. Remove 2 duct screws – 8MM socket required

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2.f. 4 top screws remain in place

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2.g. Remove passenger side rear screw cover – butter knife or putty knife required

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2.h. Remove passenger side rear screw – 8MM socket required

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2.i. Remove driver side rear screw cover – butter knife or putty knife required

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2.l. Remove driver side rear screw – 8MM socket required

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2.j. Pull passenger side front of console away from center and toward door to disengage velcro

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2.k. Pull driver side front of console away from center and toward door to disengage velcro

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2.l. Lift console lower half up and out of vehicle

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3. Remove Lower Dash Panel

3.a. Remove 2 bottom screws – 7MM socket required

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3.b. Pull from top

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3.c. Clip may come off - No worries it can be put back when panel is reinstalled

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3.d. View with panel removed

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4. Remove Dashboard Brace

4.a. View of dashboard brace

View attachment 234293

4.a. Remove top screws – 10MM socket required

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4.b. Remove bottom nuts – 10MM deep socket required - Pull carpet back to reveal bottom nuts

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4.c. View with brace removed

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5. Remove Lower Heater Duct

5.a. Pop off harness with screwdriver – be careful not to damage any wires

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5.b. Remove 2 screws – 8MM socket required

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5.c. Wiggle duct out – it seems like it won’t come out but it will – pull front of it down

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6. Remove Blend Door Actuator

6.a. Locate top screw - Arrow indicates area to look for top screw

View attachment 234300

6.b. View of top screw

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6.c. Remove top screw – 8MM socket & 6” extension required - Picture shows how to access top screw

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6.d. Locate bottom rear screw - Arrow indicates area to look for bottom rear screw

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6.e. View of rear screw

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6.f. Remove rear screw – 8MM box-end wrench required - Ratcheting box-end wrench will be easier but not required

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6.g.1. Locate bottom front screw - Arrow indicates area to look for bottom front screw

View attachment 234306

6.g.2. Locate bottom front screw - Red dot indicates approximate area of bottom front screw

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6.h. View of bottom front screw

View attachment 234308

The following steps involve cutting the dash. Some have removed the old actuator and replaced the new one without cutting the dash. I recommend trying without cutting the dash and only cut the dash if the actuator cannot be removed and replaced with the dash intact.

6.i. Cut dash – Utility knife required – WARNING ATTEMPT AT YOUR OWN RISK - Arrows indicate area of dash to be cut

View attachment 234309

6.j. View of cut dash with foam removed - Cut vinyl then remove foam with utility knife

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6.k. Remove back plastic - Cut remaining plastic with utility knife - Red arrows indicate area to be cut - White arrow indicates bottom of Blend Door Actuator

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6.l. View of cut dash to reveal bottom front screw

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6.m. Remove bottom front screw – 8MM box-end wrench required - Ratcheting box-end wrench will be easier but not required

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6.n. Wiggle out the blend door actuator - Red arrow indicates shaft - White arrows indicate direction to pull first: away from heater box - Yellow arrow indicates direction to wiggle Blend Door Actuator out

View attachment 234314

6.o. Turn actuator so shaft it facing upward

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6.p. Disconnect blend door actuator - Arrow indicates tab to be press to release connector

View attachment 234316

7. Install New Blend Door Actuator

7.a. Connect actuator

View attachment 234317

7.b. Turn ignition key to run position

7.c. Rotate temp selector from cold to hot to verify operation of actuator – shaft should be moving

View attachment 234318

7.d. Rotate temp from hot to cold setting – shaft should be moving – leave temp set to cold

View attachment 234319

7.e. Wait for shaft to stop moving! Then turn ignition key to off and remove key - LEAVE TEMP SET TO COLD

7.f. Wiggle actuator into position – this takes some patience – be careful not to damage shaft - Shaft is keyed and will only go in one way - DO NOT FORCE SHAFT - Red arrows indicate direction to wiggle in Blend Door Actuator - White arrow indicates where shaft is inserted

View attachment 234320

7.g. Install bottom front screw – 8MM box-end wrench required – Ratcheting box-end wrench will be easier but not required - start threading with fingers then use wrench – DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN

View attachment 234321

7.h. Install bottom rear screw – 8MM box-end wrench required – Ratcheting box-end wrench will be easier but not required - start threading screw with fingers then use wrench – DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN

View attachment 234322

7.i. Install top screw – 8MM socket & 6” extension required

View attachment 234323

7.j. Tape screw to socket

View attachment 234324

7.k. Start threading screw

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7.l. Pull extension out

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7.m. Reach up and remove socket - Arrows indicate where to reach up to remove socket from screw

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7.n. Remove tape and replace socket

View attachment 234328

7.o. Tighten top screw – DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN

View attachment 234329

8. Test Blend Door Actuator

8.a. Start vehicle and let it reach normal operating temp

View attachment 234330

8.b. Set selector to vent (engine must be running since this operates on vacuum)

View attachment 234331

8.c. Temp setting should be on cold

View attachment 234332

8.d. Turn fan on

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8.e. Test temp of airflow – it should be cold

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8.f. Rotate temp setting all the way to hot

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8.g. Test temp of airflow – it should be hot

View attachment 234336

8.h. Nice job! You are now ready for winter

8.i. Turn vehicle off

9. Reinstall Lower Heater Duct

9.a. Wiggle duct into place - Arrows indicate position to wiggle in duct

View attachment 234337

9.b. Install 2 screws – 8MM socket required

View attachment 234338

9.c. Push harness into place

View attachment 234339

10. Reinstall Dashboard Brace

10.a. Install 2 bottom nuts – 10MM deep socket required - Pull carpet back for access

View attachment 234340

10.b. Install 2 top screws – 10MM socket required

View attachment 234341

10.c. View with brace reinstalled

View attachment 234342

11. Reinstall Lower Dash Panel

11.a. Set panel in place and push in top section

View attachment 234343

11.b. If clip fell off, then replace clip

View attachment 234344

11.c. Install 2 bottom screws – 7MM socket required

View attachment 234345

12. Reinstall Center Console Lower Half

12.a. Set console lower half back into place

View attachment 234346

12.b. Push console forward to close gap in lower duct

View attachment 234347

12.c. While pushing console forward, Install passenger side rear screw – 8MM socket required

View attachment 234348

12.d. Replace passenger side screw cover

View attachment 234349

12.e. While pushing console forward, Install driver side rear screw – 8MM socket required

View attachment 234350

12.f. Replace driver side rear screw cover

View attachment 234351

12.g. Install 2 duct screws – 8MM socket required

View attachment 234352

12.h. Install 2 front screws – 8MM socket required

View attachment 234353

12.i. Push passenger side front of console toward center to engage Velcro

View attachment 234354

12.j. Push driver side front of console toward center to engage Velcro

View attachment 234355

12.k. Push harness back into place

View attachment 234356

12.l. Push rear power point connector back into place

View attachment 234357

12.m. Connect rear power point

View attachment 234358

13. Reinstall Center Console Upper Half

13.a. Connect extra power source & front power point

View attachment 234359

13.b. Set console lower half back into position and push downward to snap into place

View attachment 234360

13.c. Install screw – 7MM socket required

View attachment 234361

13.d. Replace rubber matt

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14. Blend Door Actuator Replacement is Complete!

14.a. View of cut dash with console installed - Arrows indicate area that was cut

View attachment 234363

14.b. You saved a bunch of cash

View attachment 234364

14.c. Grab a cold one

View attachment 234365

14.d. Enjoy the winter

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:wavey: Thanks for looking :biggthump

2020 update from a grateful 2002 Explorer XLT owner: This is the most incredibly helpful set of blender door actuator replacement directions. Everything went exactly as was defined for me yesterday thanks to this guide. The only glitch was I initially tried a Dorman actuator which did not react to the test as I prepared the installation causing me to hurriedly call and install a Ford actuator. It's supposed to snow tomorrow so am glad to have a defroster again. Thanks to the creator of these instructions and the forum for making this resource available.