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Replaced Battery and now truck cranks but won't start. 97 Ex, AWD.

Sounds like you may have flooded it while trying to start it. When you depress the throttle to the floor during cranking this indicates to the computer "clear flood mode". This will stop the injectors from firing.

Off the top of my head, I dont think 38 psi is high enough, but I could be mistaken. You should get a vacuum pump and test the pressure regulator too. Pull the hose that's on it and plug it off with a small bolt. Put the vacuum pump on the regulator. Apply a few pounds of vacuum to it and see how it responds. The fuel pressure gauge should see a sudden dip in pressure but come back quickly.

There should definitely be pressure at the priming of the pump too. This is kind of a head scratcher, because usually when a pump is bad, it's dead. Low and lazy pressure isn't really common on these kinds of pumps. It's probably worth throwing on a fuel filter and seeing if that helps the situation any.

There is negligible pressure during priming. I'm going to check it against my other truck tonight. Maybe its just the gauge not reading it?


Looking back, the truck has Always been a hard starter. More so now that its getting colder.
 



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Unless it's a really crummy or defective gauge, it should respond immediately. Could be that the pump is slow to prime and it's giving you a death rattle. I'd throw a fuel filter in it anyhow and see if you get an improvement.
 






Unless it's a really crummy or defective gauge, it should respond immediately. Could be that the pump is slow to prime and it's giving you a death rattle. I'd throw a fuel filter in it anyhow and see if you get an improvement.

Ok. Fuel gauge was bad. Got a new one. Priming psi is 10. Idle psi is 32. Didn't have anyone with me to check with pressure.

I will. Change the filter tomorrow and see if that changes anything.
 






Ok. Fuel gauge was bad. Got a new one. Priming psi is 10. Idle psi is 32. Didn't have anyone with me to check with pressure.

I will. Change the filter tomorrow and see if that changes anything.

Unless I'm mistaken, the '97 still had the return-style fuel system and around 35 PSI is what the fuel pressure should be. The return-less style fuel system, used on the later models, should be around 65 PSI. So 32 PSI isn't that far off normal. Sometimes you have to remove the Schrader valve to get a true pressure reading, as some gauges don't depress the valve all the way.
 






I don't think the pressure should be low during priming. It needs just as much pressure on starting as it does running, if not more.

Good chance the pump is going bad. When you initially turn the key on, it primes the pump on a time duration. If it's not getting it up to running pressure on the prime, it is not working correctly. There's a chance this is a circuitry problem, but my money is on a fading pump.
 






I don't think the pressure should be low during priming. It needs just as much pressure on starting as it does running, if not more.

Good chance the pump is going bad. When you initially turn the key on, it primes the pump on a time duration. If it's not getting it up to running pressure on the prime, it is not working correctly. There's a chance this is a circuitry problem, but my money is on a fading pump.

Yeah, that's kind of what I was thinking, but it's late in the game now, 800 mile trip next Thursday for work that I need to go on but no time to change out the pump between now and then (I've only ever helped do one years ago on my friends Camaro).
 






Yeah, that's kind of what I was thinking, but it's late in the game now, 800 mile trip next Thursday for work that I need to go on but no time to change out the pump between now and then (I've only ever helped do one years ago on my friends Camaro).

I would advise against taking that truck out of town. If it's starting to go out (the pump) it wont be long until it gives up completely. I could be mistaken on the diagnosis of course, but you're really tempting fate.
 






The F-body pumps are a lot harder, because the tank is a lot harder to get out (My first pump job at 16 years old was an 89 Camaro, what a nightmare). I've never had the tank down on an Ex, but I'm pretty sure you just take off the straps, disconnect the filler neck and it's down.
 






The F-body pumps are a lot harder, because the tank is a lot harder to get out (My first pump job at 16 years old was an 89 Camaro, what a nightmare). I've never had the tank down on an Ex, but I'm pretty sure you just take off the straps, disconnect the filler neck and it's down.

plus two 17mm bolts, two electrical connectors and the evap hose. pretty easy to do.
 






Ok, well that gives me some more confidence. Thanks guys all for the input. I really do appreciate it. I'll keep you posted on how things progress.
 






A cheaters way of replacing the pump. Read through the whole thread for good ideas how to re cover the hole. This will work for 2nd gen also, just pay attention as some pictures are 1st gen, some are 2nd gen. Yours is a 2nd gen truck.


http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=182160
 






Ok,

New fuel filter in, no change in priming PSI (10) or Idle PSI (32). It does however seem to be starting easier.

I also changed plugs all around and the plug wires on the drivers side. Ran out of time tonight to do the passenger side (0400 comes too damn early! lol).

How does the plug-wire on the passenger side rear route?
 






Hey everyone. Just as the subject says. I replaced my battery last night but didn't start it. Came out today and now it just cranks and cranks. Almost catches but never does. Any suggestions?
try a new power control mo dual, good to have a spare anyway
Burnt mine trying a supposed fuel saver plug in
 






try a new power control mo dual, good to have a spare anyway
Burnt mine trying a supposed fuel saver plug in
I really hope they’ve fixed it by now…..
 






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