sensor replacement
You dont have to have a special tool to align it just a volt meter. I had to put one in my x when i swapped motors. my motor had it and the new motor didnt. I done it with it out of the truck and was really tedious but i would say the upper intake will def have to come off even if you didnt have to because it will def help during install because it will take quite a few trys to get it lined up right. I hope this helps.
here is the service info on it sorry i couldnt get the pics:
REMOVAL
Disconnect the battery ground cable. NOTE: When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 miles) or more to relearn the strategy.
Disconnect the engine wiring harness connector at the Camshaft Position (CMP) , or Cylinder Identification (CID) sensor.
Remove the CMP sensor retaining screws and CMP from synchronizer assembly. NOTE: Prior to the removal of the CMP sensor, set No. 1 cylinder to 0 degrees Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke. Note the position of the CMP sensor electrical connector. The installation procedure requires that the connector be located in the same position.
Remove hold-down clamp.
Remove the synchronizer assembly from cylinder block.
INSTALLATION
Rotate crankshaft until TDC mark on the damper is accessible. If not present, place an additional mark on the damper at 26 degrees After Top Dead Center (ATDC) . This position is 34 mm (1.34 in) counterclockwise from the TDC mark.
Position No. 1 cylinder to TDC between compression and ignition stroke. (Both intake and exhaust valves must be closed with TDC mark on vibration damper at pointer).
Lubricate oil pump drive pinion and O-ring on assembled oil pump drive gear and CMP sensor with SM-2C 1013-A oil. Do not get oil above mounting flange.
Align the CMP sensor rotor as shown with the trailing edge of the vane lined up with the short mark at the left-hand side of the plastic window. NOTE: Normal CMP sensor rotation is clockwise viewed from top of CID sensor.
Position the sensor above its hole at right angles to the block rear face.
Install the assembled CMP sensor and oil pump drive gear into the engine. As the assembly is pushed into place, the camshaft gear will rotate the sensor vane clockwise toward the center window.
Rotate the CMP sensor counterclockwise. Install clamp and screw finger-tight. Rotate the sensor back to its position at right angles to the back of the block.
Connect the CMP Testing Wiring Harness T94T-50-B or equivalent to the CMP sensor.
Connect the CMP Testing Wiring Harness leads: Red harness wire to the battery positive terminal. Black harness wire to battery negative terminal. Voltmeter positive lead to harnesses white lead. Voltmeter negative lead to battery negative terminal.
Rotate engine two revolutions to take up slack in timing chain and return to No. 1 cylinder to its compression stroke.
Verify that No. 1 cylinder is on its compression stroke. NOTE: No. 1 cylinder must be at 26 degrees ATDC to set CMP sensor.
Continue to rotate the crankshaft until the new 26 degrees ATDC mark lines up with the timing pointer.
While rotating the CMP sensor, note the exact point where the sensor switches from 0 to 12 volts on the voltmeter. NOTE: The voltmeter will register battery voltage whenever the CMP closes and makes a complete circuit.
Rotate the CMP sensor clockwise past the CMP switching point (from 12 to 0 volts). NOTE: The final movement to set the CMP sensor must be in a counterclockwise direction.
Rotate the CMP sensor counterclockwise and stop at the exact point the voltmeter switches from 0 to 12 volts.
Tighten the CMP sensor hold-down bolts to 17-21 Nm (13-15 lb ft) using Sensor Adjusting Wrench T94T-12270-A.
Disconnect the testing wiring harness and the voltmeter
I'd like to add, so nobody is an idiot like me, doing it 3 times in a row, wrong, is there is a notch for 0° TDC, and 10+ TDC. The 26° is past the 10° notch. My stupid ass did 26° before TDC. If you do that you will hear the valves tick like mad about 5 seconds after startup. Another helpful tip of advice I have is to take the intake plenum off and use the rear of a hammer to pry out the sensor. You should have just enough room the squeeze in there and get under it with leverage if you have a medium size hammer. No amount of pulling and wiggling with my fingers was gonna get that sucker out. The hammer did it for me no problem. The first time I did it, it took me about 8 hours. Second time, about 6 hours, the 3rd and final time, I did it in 3 hours, and didn't even have to take the intake plenum off, but getting the hammer to fit back there and to use it was a *****!
Also, REMOVE THE HOOD. Holy cow that was so much help. Lay some towels down for you knees. Have a swear jar next to you, because this will be the most tedious job you will do without removing the engine.
Additional bits of advice:
Per the Haynes manual, the middle wire on the sensor pigtail is the one you stick a paperclip in to get the signal for your volt meter.
Grab an intake plenum gasket for while you're in there.
The 10mm bolt holding it down is probably the softest pot metal on planet earth, and you will have to use the closed end on a stubby socket to get it off, or it WILL strip. How I managed to get it off was with a stubby 10mm wrench, closed side on the bolt, and I used a 10mm allen head 3/8 socket on a ratchet for the open part of the wrench, and it came off after giving it the business. I honestly don't think anything else would have gotten it off. I had an extremely long closed end 10mm wrench I heated and bent into a distributor wrench, and I could not get enough leverage on it. I'm telling you. Stubby 10mm, closed in on, 10mm allen head socket on a ratchet to go into the open end of the wrench, and give it the business.
Don't do this repair with a friend. It is nothing but anger and frustration. Do it alone with plenty of water, some soothing music, the wife and kids out of the house for the day, phone on silent, and plenty of light to see what you are doing.
Best of luck to the other people attempting this. You can do it. The mechanic will ask around $670 for the job. It's well worth blowing your weekend on unless you have money to blow.