Replacing Radiator in my 5.0

[gavin]

So did a bunch of searching yesterday, and it appears my coolant leak is due to a hairline crack somewhere between the plastic housing and aluminum core on the pass side. The only dripping I see is on the pass side bottom of the radiator and trans coolant lines.
It also only leaks when running, apparently, so crack is small enough to not leak when the system isn't pressurized.

But in less than 50 mi (and about 2 hrs), my coolant reservoir has lost about half of what it takes to get it to "Cold Full"

Any other preventative maintenance I should do while the radiator is out? I do plan on, at the very least, replacing all the coolant hoses.

About 190k miles on the thing.
Rough guesstimates on how long it will/could/would take?

 

[Joe Dirt]

Check my thread...

Clicketh

I put in a new tensioner, new idler pullies, new belt, thermostat, new rad hoses, and heater/bypass hoses by the thermostat while I was in there also- MUCH easier to replace that stuff when everything is out of the way.

If you're on the ball, I'd say 3-4 hours is good for everything at a comfortable pace with no real issues.

 

[joecrna]

Id do the same list Joe mentioned but it would take me all day. I am thorough but very slow.

 

[Joe Dirt]

3-4 actually is my number, but I've done a few. If you haven't, add a couple more- it could easily go there. The nice thing is that once the rad is out of the way, the accessory replacements are easy and quite fast to do.

Also- I have a water pump in the garage, but didn't put it in. One bolt was being a *******, and mine was fine, not leaking at all. I was planning to change it just because, but then I didn't want to chance a broken bolt until I absolutely had to change it since I was starting to move the next week and needed the truck.

 

[gavin]

thanks Joe!
Yeah, 3-4 hrs doesn't sound too realistic for me :
but certainly gives a decent starting point.

I already replaced the tensioner and idler pulleys not too long ago. Maybe 2 yrs?

would it be worth it to replace the water pump while I'm there? Assuming the bolts come out easy.

 

[joecrna]

Depends on mileage. Over a hundred K or so, yep. Of coarse I don't know how much a water pump costs. Id take a good look at everything on the front of the engine. If in doubt, now is the time to do it. Hopefully you won't be in here again for a long time.

 

[gavin]

looks to be around $72 for a new (not reman) water pump. Only $5 more than a reman. Radiator around $214.

From Napa, anyway. Will check out Carquest since they tend to sell me parts at cost.
Schmucks/O'Reillys isn't cheaper.

 

[EMG7895]

I did the water pump and all of the hoses while I had the radiator out, and I'd recommend doing the same at the mileage as well. I replaced the tensioner, cap and thermostat as well.

 

[gavin]

Sounds like a plan.
Time to start sourcing the parts...

and awesome write-up Joe. Makes it look a helluva lot easier than the other threads I had read!

 

[EMG7895]

I ordered everything from rock auto, got the job done in an afternoon. I found that knowing beforehand how to separate the radiator and condenser made the job much easier than many make it out to be. Careful with the trans cooler lines, they can be delicate and tough to get a good seal without over tightening. I also flushed out the motor while I had it all apart.

 

[gavin]

shipping to AK can be spendy
I'll probably source through Amazon since they offer free "super saver" shipping which, depending on the size of the item, can be 2-day UPS or FedEx
and I'm sure a radiator is the right size for 2-day

 

[gavin]

what would the hoses running to/from the oil filter adapter be called? Is that a bypass hose?

This is the list I have:
Motorcraft RS76 Radiator Cap
Motorcraft KM1935 Bypass Hose
Motorcraft KM3066 Upper Radiator Hose
Motorcraft KM3065 Lower Radiator Hose
TYC 2308 Ford/Mercury 1-Row Plastic Aluminum Replacement Radiator
Motorcraft PW343 New Water Pump (with gasket)

 

[gavin]

bumpity for my last 2 Q's.

 

[gavin]

ok so I busted one of the studs holding the water pump on.
attempted to use an easy out, with no luck.
granted, may have been due to cheap bolt extractors.

what other options are there?

 

[boominXplorer]

ok so I busted one of the studs holding the water pump on.
attempted to use an easy out, with no luck.
granted, may have been due to cheap bolt extractors.

what other options are there?

I take it its one of the 4 that go into the block and not any of the ones just in the timing cover. Is it broke flush with the block or does it stick out some?

 

[gavin]

I take it its one of the 4 that go into the block and not any of the ones just in the timing cover. Is it broke flush with the block or does it stick out some?

I believe it goes in to the block.
one of the upper-left studs.

there is about an inch sticking out but... attempting an extractor split it apart...

 

[Turdle]

Heat that sucker and squirt some penetrant on, heat again and re squirt. Then try vice grips clamped tight, try to turn the bolt in a bit more clockwise, this may break the bolt free enough to get the counterclockwise rotation going. You might even try to use a hammer to tap it a bit clockwise. EVen if you can get the bolt to wiggle a tiny bit the battle is won. Be patient so you do not damage the timing cover.

Another trick, you might hit the stud with a welder. Weld a nut onto the end of the broken bolt. That way you'll get a nut on it, and, the heat from welding may be enough to break the rust free.

 

[lounge lizard]

my radiator has the same crack in it only after doing my body lift.

seems the stock upper hose puts a strain on the plastic manifold. so I got a flex hose that is a few inches longer to give it more room.

if you can't weld a nut to the end of the broken bolt, some heat and penetrating fluid. plus hit the end with a hammer as well if you can before turning it. not very hard, but hard enough.

 

[gavin]

put some PB on it already a few times.
haven't tried heat just yet... small propane torch be sufficient?
might need to remove the accessory bracket holding the alt, idler, and tensioner pullies to get sufficient room for a pair of vice grips. not quite enough room for the vice grips I have.

 

[gavin]

this is what I have left to work with