SOHC Engine Removal/Rebuild/Install - Done!

[koda2000]

Does anyone know the e-socket size needed to remove the exhaust manifold studs on the 4.0L SOHC engine? I need to buy a set and I want to make sure the size needed is included in what I purchase.

The set I'm looking at includes:
5 pc 1/4" Drive Sockets E4, E5, E6, E7, E8
6 pc 3/8" Drive Sockets E10, E12, E14, E16, E18, E20

 

[david4451]

Hi Phil, that range looks like what I purchased and it fits exhaust manifold studs. I got all my studs out with this set pictured below

 

[koda2000]

Thanks David,

After successfully getting the 4 down-pipe nuts off quite easily, i moved on to the exhaust manifold nuts. About 1/2 the studs came out with the nuts, but apparently all the studs must come out to get the manifolds off.

 

[david4451]

Passenger side needs all studs out as exhaust manifold 2 bolts don't come out of flange on cats due to O2 sensor stopping it going down the pipe for clearance.

Are you pulling the engine out?

 

[koda2000]

Passenger side needs all studs out as exhaust manifold 2 bolts don't come out of flange on cats due to O2 sensor stopping it going down the pipe for clearance.

Are you pulling the engine out?

Yes I'm pulling the engine out. It now has a blown head gasket and overheats. I plan to do an autopsy on the engine to see if I think it's worth repairing, or if I need to find a replacement engine. I did manage to get almost 5 years out of it with its various issues. It still runs very well, other than its latest issue and various relatively minor TC noises. I just can't bring myself to scrap it and reman engines are expensive and would exceed the value of the truck. Even used engines are $700-$1000 U.S. with unknown issues of their own.

Any advice on getting the lower EGR fitting off on the Job 2? Is yours a Job 2 or a Job 1 engine?. The top fitting unscrewed easily, but I can't get my large adjustable wrench on the bottom fitting. I admit I haven't spend much time on that yet. I see there's a removable plate (heat shield?) removing that may give me more room. I hate the idea of buying a huge open-end wrench just for that stupid fitting. Will the engine come out with the left header & tube still attached? I'm thinking not.

 

[david4451]

About one year ago I rebuilt my engine, heads off new piston rings and bearings on con rods and crankshaft plus TC parts ( Cloyes ). I never had the chance to put a different engine in having said that it is very low milage anyway 40k miles only and in good nick. It is a job 2 identical to yours even the colour. After all that work it developed a big oil leak between engine and transmission.

So I pulled the engine again and finished it yesterday so everything is really fresh in my memory! Found upper pan gasket had split both sides of rear crankshaft cap. I had bought a cheap ( DNJ ) lower gasket set big mistake. This time Felpro, with Ford front and rear crankshaft oil seals (rear sleeved )

Also had scraping noise at front TC took out Cloyes parts and changed all to Ford, I'm paying for my mistakes!

Your egr tube will need 27 mm open spanner and it's still difficult to get a perfect purchase on that nut. I'd suggest the more you can take off engine the better, especially heads to get to engine to transmission bolts. Plus blower motor, rad etc etc. I don't know if leaving left header and egr tube on will clear everything.

I found this helpful, I supported transmission on torsion bars, this kept transmission in exactly same position and could push ST back and to. Used a mango tree to lift engine so ST had to move.
If your engine is salvageable it is obviously your most economically viable option, we'll just have to wait to see what the tear down reveals.

 

[koda2000]

I have a hydraulic engine hoist with an adjustable balance thing and engine stand, so I wont need the Mango tree. I guess I'll need to buy/borrow a 27mm open end wrench. I'm not planning on messing with the pistons, crankshaft, or conn rods. The engine ran very well (even with 200,000 miles on it), had good oil pressure and didn't burn any oil between changes so other than the TC parts and a cylinder head, gaskets, seals and new TTY bolts I'm not planning to mess with much that doesn't need attention. Am I correct in thinking the flex plate bolts are TTY too?

The ST is not my only vehicle and I mostly just use it around town, so it's okay if it's not a total engine rebuild or if it takes me several months to get it back on the road. I'd just like it to be reliable. The bottom end of the 4.0L is pretty bullet prove and should be good for 400K, not that I ever plan to put that many miles on it in my remaining lifetime. I do plan to install a new WP and things like FI O-rings and a Simmons metal t-stat housing.

I will have to buy/borrow the cam & crank holding tools and I plan on using Ford or Felpro parts where needed. I could probably have my no-doubt warped head resurfaced, but we don't have any machine shops in my town. A reman head from RA isn't too expensive. I'll have to see what I find during the tear-down. I'm considering removing the console and floor plate to get better access to the trans bolts and O2 sensor wiring, but only if absolutely necessary.

Thanks for your help, I'm sure I'll have other questions. I found some great YouTube videos on the 4.0L SOHC engine by a guy called FordTechMakuloco. He's taken the mystery out of most of the TC job.

 

[david4451]

Pity you don't have a mango tree!

The 8 flex plate bolts are NOT TTY. They need female torx socket which is in that set.

I went overboard doing bearings rings etc, being 68 I doubt I'll get enough use out of it to justify. I use my mechanicing to enjoy myself and keeps my mind busy and like you I take my time.

The good news is no oil leaks and no timing chain scratchy ticking sounds ( I think it was primary tensioner ) and Cloyes had 5 leaves and Ford one had 6 and was better quality.

I've seen those videos too, which are helpful, however he never started Ranger after doing timing???

 

[koda2000]

I've had three timing chain related noises since shortly after I got my ST back on the road in 5 year ago. First was the "clack" at startup and later a slight chain noise while running. I believe the second noise was a broken balance shaft tensioner according to a small piece of steel leaf spring I found in the oil pan. The 3rd noise was a ratter loud clicking that lasted a few weeks and then went away. To avoid the clack at startup I've been letting the engine crank for a few seconds to build oil pressure in the tentioners. That's worked out ok for me. If I am successful in rebuilding my engine I'll probably add a real pre-oiler. I see there's one that uses an accumulator to store pressurized oil until the key is turned. That sort of packaging seems like it may be easier to install that an actual pump.

Glad to hear you've resolved your rebuild issues. Did you use new Ford TTY head bolts?

 

[1.8TTony]

The flex plate bolts are E12.

The driver's side exhaust manifold can be removed with the metal EGR tube attached to it...... Depending on what intake manifold is atop your engine.

Removing the intake manifold gives you great space to access the transmission bolts.

A 13mm ratcheting wrench is a MUST HAVE tool when removing those transmission bolts. Zero frustrations, and can remove 6 of the trans bolts in minutes.

 

[david4451]

First, head bolts I used new Felpro bolts. Get a top quality male torx socket to remove old tty bolts, plus a long breaker bar they are a pita to remove.

With regard to pre oiler, mine still works fine but is my one off design. The accumulator type are fine and no need to swith on and off.

The piece of metal you found was either from balance shaft tensioner or primary tensioner on jackshaft/crankshaft chain. When you get to reassembly I'll give you a suggestion regarding this primary tensioner, as said before this is where my "tick" was comming from, but saying that nothing was obvious or damaged.

 

[1.8TTony]

Oh, another thing: Removing the motor mount plates allows greater movement of the engine...... With those plates removed, the engine can swing left and right far enough remove exhaust manifolds with the exhaust studs in place. Also, the engine can come lowered a few inches giving a lot of space to access the trans bolts.

The mount plates that I'm talking about are the ones between the engine and motor mounts. 13mm bolts secure the plates to the engine while 18mm nuts secure the plates to the motor mount studs.....

This past month, I've removed atleast 6 engines from Explorers/Sport Tracs/Rangers......

 

[koda2000]

Thanks for the tips guys. I have plenty of the Torx male sockets, just never needed the female Torx/star sockets for anything before. I have a set on the way, they should be here by the end of the week. I also have 3/8 and 1/2 ratchets with multiple extensions plus pneumatic tools. It turned cold this week and the pollen count was extremely high (4,666 yesterday) so I didn't feel like working on it. It's supposed to warm up by Thursday.

As the head bolts are not reusable, is there any reason I can't break them free with my impact wrench?

 

[1.8TTony]

I wouldn't use an impact on the head bolts..... Especially with the weather being cold. One or more of the bolts might snap and break. The bolts have stretched when originally installed. The stretching of the bolts is achieved right before the bolt breaks.

I would use a long bar to loosen the bolts and then is an impact to easily remove the bolts.

 

[1.8TTony]

If you choose to remove the intake manifold to access the trans bolts, (which I highly recommend)..... You will need to use a T30 torx socket bit to remove the screws which secure the intake manifold atop the engine. Leave the EGR valve bolted to the intake manifold. Unbolt the metal egr tube from the EGR valve......... The EGR valve is difficult to remove from the intake manifold because the EGR valve protrudes inside the manifold.

You don't have to label any of the electrical connectors because none of them will attach onto any sensor it was not intended to be mated with. All you need to remember is that the wire harness shoots into three sections. One section runs below the motor mount to the starter. One section runs across the top driver's side fuel rail and continues down to the A/C compressor..... The third section runs across the passenger side fuel rail and continues down to the crank shaft position sensor.

 

[koda2000]

I wouldn't use an impact on the head bolts..... Especially with the weather being cold. One or more of the bolts might snap and break. The bolts have stretched when originally installed. The stretching of the bolts is achieved right before the bolt breaks.

I would use a long bar to loosen the bolts and then is an impact to easily remove the bolts.

I've watched videos of several people removing head bolts on the 4.0L SOHC. It looks like a real struggle (even with the engine still in the vehicle where it can't move). I have a long 1/2" breaker bar and a piece of pipe for added leverage. I will purchase a new quality 1/2" T55 Torx bit for the job, as all the ones I have are 3/8's drive and I suspect I'll just break them.

 

[koda2000]

@david4451 - I realize you ended up doing this job twice. You said the "first time you used Felpro head bolts". Did you experience a problem with these bolts? Did you use Motorcraft bolts the second time?

 

[david4451]

Second time I did not remove the heads and have had no problems with them, just the oil leak and that tick in front timing chains. I've never seen Motorcraft bolts for sale and the Felpro are good.

 

[koda2000]

Second time I did not remove the heads and have had no problems with them, just the oil leak and that tick in front timing chains. I've never seen Motorcraft bolts for sale and the Felpro are good.

Okay. Yeah, I couldn't find Motorcraft head bolts on the internet either. I've always had good luck with Felpro stuff. -Thanks.

 

[koda2000]

Update:
I've been busy with other stuff, but my e-sockets arrived yesterday afternoon and I decided to try to spend some time working in the engine today. I got in 2-2.5 hours and managed to make some progress.

Passenger side header studs removed
Passenger side header removed
Trans dip stick tube removed
All 6 spark plug wires removed and numbered
Intake tube removed
Throttle body removed
Coil pack removed
Coil pack mounting bracket removed
Large electrical connection on the driver's side valve cover unbolted/disconnected
Most of the electrical connectors on the engine labeled and disconnected
EGR valve removed
DPFE removed
Cam position sensor removed
Heat shield over fuel line removed to get a bit better access to the EGR nut
Almost ready to remove intake manifold
Ready to go find a 27mm wrench for the EGR nut

Questions:
Is there a special tool required to disconnect the fuel line connection near the driver's side upper shock mount? I removed the lock-clip, but I've never disconnected a fitting like that. I have a good set of line disconnect tools and I recall there was a special one (looks like what you might use on A/C line connections) will that work, or does it take a tool like for the fuel filter?

If I take the A/C compressor loose can I wire it out of the way without breaking the system?

I saw there is one diver's side exhaust header nut that's behind the oil dip stick tube (thanks Ford)., I need to figure out a way to get that sucker loose. I can't get much leverage with a 10mm wrench. Will the oil dip stick tube come out of the engine easily once the bracket's nut is removed?

Further Update:
I just watched fordtecmakuloco's 4.0L SOHC video Part 1. He had some good tips for engine removal, which should be helpful, but he discharged the A/C system and left both exhaust manifolds on (and the EGR tube) in place when he pulled the engine. I don't mind taking parts off it it makes my job easier. For him time is money, for me it's not. Also he's working in the rust belt and I'm not, so removing bolts is not too hard for me