Ride Height measurements

[EXPLDER]

stock tire/stock ride height measurement

Hey guys, no this isn't yet another question about torsion twisting (well, ok it sorta is). I need to know what you guys have for stock ride heights. If you could measure from the ground to the top of your fender lip passing through the middle of your wheel OR measure from the very center of your wheel to the fender lip that would be great.

I think my truck sagged in the front, most have problems sagging in the rear, but mine was the opposite. The book (I think Chiltons) says to measure from the center of the lower arm bolt (the A-arm to frame/ bushing bolt) to the ground and measure from the lowest part of the steering knuckle (NOT the ball joint) then subtract the two. They list 3.25~3.75 for standard explorers and 3.5~4.5 for the air adjust models. I got a low 2.75 measurement.

And heres why the long post and my needing your guys' stock measurements...........

I'm trying to lift my truck, and the standard in here is 2" of TT or you'll wear the CV joints out, well thats fine and dandy but everyones truck is different, mine sagged, so I'm assuming I can get away with MORE lift as the CV angle will be the same as someones other truck that didn't sag and got 2" of lift. Theres no definate answer in the billions of post I read through, just the generic "dont exceed 2" .". Well the Chiltons at least discounts tire height and pretty much relies on the angle of the arm to frame, which would be nice to know, but I'm guessing it'll be easier to get guys to measure their fender lip then to lay down on the ground and measure for me (but if you do, thanks!!!!). Actually, if we all did this we could come up with a DEFINATE max angle for lifting our rides and sticky it!!

Sorry for the long post, and Thanks in advance, ~Mike.........

BTW, I have 33.5" from ground to fender on all 4 corners after my TT and AAL, and I'm thinking its not much more then stock (since mine sagged from the get go). And my A arm bolt to steering knucle relationship is like 4.625". I'd like to add another 1" shackle and tighten the bars a little bit more, but I wan't everyones input first.

 

[EXPLDER]

Hey guys, no this isn't yet another question about torsion twisting (well, ok it sorta is). I need to know what you guys have for stock ride heights. If you could measure from the ground to the top of your fender lip passing through the middle of your wheel OR measure from the very center of your wheel to the fender lip that would be great. Stock tired and ride height vehicle please, or if its lifted and or has taller then stock tires from the center of the wheel to the fender lip. (OR even better, but more a pain, measure from the lower A-arm to frame bolt center to the ground {measurement A} then from the lowest part of the steering knucle [NOT THE BALL JOINT] to the ground {measurement B} that would be the best).

I think my truck sagged in the front stock, most have problems sagging in the rear, but mine was the opposite. The book (I think Chiltons) says to measure from the center of the lower arm bolt (the A-arm to frame/ bushing bolt) to the ground and measure from the lowest part of the steering knuckle (NOT the ball joint) then subtract the two. They list 3.25~3.75 for standard explorers and 3.5~4.5 for the air adjust models. I got a low 2.75 measurement.

And heres why the long post and my needing your guys' stock / lifted measurements...........

I'm trying to lift my truck, and the standard in here is 2" of TT or you'll wear the CV joints out, well thats fine and dandy but everyones truck is different, mine sagged, so I'm assuming I can get away with MORE lift as the CV angle will be the same as someones other truck that didn't sag and got 2" of lift. Theres no definate answer in the billions of post I read through, just the generic "dont exceed 2" .". Well the Chiltons at least discounts tire height and pretty much relies on the angle of the arm to frame, which would be nice to know, but I'm guessing it'll be easier to get guys to measure their fender lip then to lay down on the ground and measure for me (but if you do, thanks!!!!). Actually, if we all did this we could come up with a DEFINATE max angle for lifting our rides and sticky it!!

My wanting to know all this is so I can max out the lft in the front without hurting it.

Sorry for the long post, and Thanks in advance, ~Mike.........

BTW, I have 33.5" from ground to fender on all 4 corners after my TT and AAL, and I'm thinking its not much more then stock (since mine sagged from the get go). And my A arm bolt to steering knucle relationship is like 4.625". I'd like to add another 1" shackle and tighten the bars a little bit more, but I wan't everyones input first.

 

[reserved50]

beats me whats going on, but mine had 33" front and 32" rear from ground to lip on a stock tire truck with a 5.0 non air ride, and Im sure the front was corrected for sag at some point on the left(large difference in torsion bar adjustments from left to right) and the rear has had sag in it also

 

[EXPLDER]

You had 33" and 32" on a stock truck!?! I knew my damn truck looked low, and I did the TT and AAl and I'm only 1/2" front and 1.5" rear (probly cause the AAL) higher then your stock ride?? My pass side is way out compaired to the driver side, but the truck sits level.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

The variance will be so great it will be nearly impossible to establish a base line. 100 people could messure & you will get 100 different measurements.

My '97 Mountaineer was sagging on the left and I have almost bottomed out the adjustment bolt leveling it.
If it is sagging bad your best bet is to relace the torsion bars.

 

[reserved50]

well one sides torsion bolt was almost all out(passenger side) and driver side was almost all the way in due to sag and it was 33 even on the front, but mines a V8, if yours isnt maybe thats why?

One way to raise it would be offset torsion keyways and shackles and/or blocks, but im into lowering so not sure

 

[EXPLDER]

I would think the v8 being heavier would be lower then my 4.0 v6 and sit lower. Weird.

 

[EXPLDER]

What I'm trying to figure out is how high I can lift it!!!! The 2" rule is crap, because everyones truck will be different, so all I'm trying to do is get an average of normal ride heights and add 2" because my truck was lower then average I believe.

~Mike............

 

[CDW6212R]

Don't measure by the fender heights. All vehicles ride on a chassis, the suspension locations are the absolute best place to measure from.

All vehicles will be twisted related to their chassis, if you square the fenders, then the chassis will be twisted. Think of Nascar, they measure and adjust weights(height) at the suspension to alter handling. As you adjust individual corners you will be adjusting the handling, negatively.

Without track testing, the best alternative is to adjust the chassis points to be square, keep each corner the same height as the other end corner(left/right).

Measure from the front lower control arm bolts to level ground, the shackle bolts are a good place in the back. Good luck,

 

[EXPLDER]

Don't measure by the fender heights. All vehicles ride on a chassis, the suspension locations are the absolute best place to measure from.

All vehicles will be twisted related to their chassis, if you square the fenders, then the chassis will be twisted. Think of Nascar, they measure and adjust weights(height) at the suspension to alter handling. As you adjust individual corners you will be adjusting the handling, negatively.

Without track testing, the best alternative is to adjust the chassis points to be square, keep each corner the same height as the other end corner(left/right).

Measure from the front lower control arm bolts to level ground, the shackle bolts are a good place in the back. Good luck,

Thanks for the tip on measuring. I guess you ddin't read my first post?

. Stock tired and ride height vehicle please, or if its lifted and or has taller then stock tires from the center of the wheel to the fender lip. (OR even better, but more a pain, measure from the lower A-arm to frame bolt center to the ground {measurement A} then from the lowest part of the steering knucle [NOT THE BALL JOINT] to the ground {measurement B} that would be the best).

The book (I think Chiltons) says to measure from the center of the lower arm bolt (the A-arm to frame/ bushing bolt) to the ground and measure from the lowest part of the steering knuckle (NOT the ball joint) then subtract the two. They list 3.25~3.75 for standard explorers and 3.5~4.5 for the air adjust models. I got a low 2.75 measurement.

The only reason I'm asking for a fender lip to ground is because I'm asking people to get these measurements for me. Now whats more likely? someone actually getting any measurement at all (only 1 answer thus far), and if I do actaully get replies, it'll most likely be the easy way (ground to fender) as I don't suspect ANYONE in here is going to actually get on the ground to measure anything to report back to me ( though it would be nice and extremely appreciated).

The A-arm bolt to ground and steering knuckle to ground is the absolute best way. It essentually eliminates tire height and it gives a lower arm angle. I guess I'll just give up on this and come up with my own "factory recommended max angles" (as I listed the measurements already, all I need to know is the lower arm length from the pivot to pivot) then lift my truck till the CV's screem and lower from there. Then I'll use the arm bolt to ground and lower knuckle to ground and figure the angle so everyone gets a DEFFINATE answer to "how much TT lift can I get before it hurts the truck" because the 2" rule sucks.

sorry for the rant.............

~Mike.......

 

[Diddy74]

Funny you should bring this up. My leaf springs were sagging and I just had them re-arched and a leaf added last weekend, before that the rear was around 31in. from the ground to fender lip, after a little torsion tweaking and an alignment all 4 corners are 33 1/4, ride is smooth and the handling has greatly improved.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

Some problems with measuring from ground to the fender lip are this:

Tire mfgs diameters vary greatly.
The tires of the person measuring may be under or over inflated.
The torsion bars can be a diferent rate.
The torsion bars could be weak.
The vehicle might not be on level ground.

This is why I stated it would ne nearly impossible to establish a base line.
Every Explorer is diferent.

 

[Diddy74]

I really do agree because even though I did make sure all tires were equally inflated, and I had them re measure while it was up on the alignment lift their is no guarentee that the "chassis" was truly level but for the time being until the weather cooperates and I can do a true measurement I'm satisfied. I forget if was JC whitney of another site I saw in the alignment tools a ride height measuring tool it ws kinda like a spring loaded tube that will give you an accurate reading from the ground to which ever chassis points you use Ok I found the site its primarily for racing applications but i'm sure it can be used for simple street legal vehicle measurements http://www.quickcar.net/chassis/ch_ridehga.html

Some problems with measuring from ground to the fender lip are this:

Tire mfgs diameters vary greatly.
The tires of the person measuring may be under or over inflated.
The torsion bars can be a diferent rate.
The torsion bars could be weak.
The vehicle might not be on level ground.

This is why I stated it would ne nearly impossible to establish a base line.
Every Explorer is diferent.

 

[CDW6212R]

There you go, Diddy gave you measurements, and I'd bet lots of money that he has an uneven chassis height. His lower control arms are different distances from the ground.

Anyway, my two trucks are both even in the front, set while being aligned. My Mountaineer I've had years to do suspension and tires etc. The front heights are around 8-8.5", I don't recall the exact amount. I chose something just above where I thought I would have CV joint troubles. So far I'm doing fine with it, and the CV axles are not too far away from level.
My 99 I just got driveable recently, and my height choice was compromised by it being my work vehicle. I removed the right adjuster bolt as the left side would go lower. I had my alignment guy set the left bolt to be level with the right side, the control arm bolts are just over 10".

I have added the ARC 99-01 OEM rear shock system to my 1999, so changing rear height is harder for me. When I wear through my 245/70/16's I'll reset the heights slightly lower. I'll drop 1/2" in the back, and change the keys to aftermarket parts, and lower about an inch more in front.

I know that both of my trucks are at least 1/2" different from one fender height to the other, which is best for them(level chassis). Good luck

 

[Diddy74]

Your absolutely right when its parked on level ground I can almost see a slight variance in the lower control arm angles, in fact the passenger side torsion bolt sits further out than the driver side, so I can only assume something is off. Bottom line in my case was the leaf springs were sagging horribly and besides the annoying squeak, I was bottoming out and the ride was terrible. No matter how much I got it aligned or raised or lowered the torsion bars to compensate it just got worse. Of course the re-arching was relatively cheap and eventually totally new springs wil be in order. Whatever you decide to do raise/lower, keeping the angles on all 4 wheels even as possible will affect the handling and comfort of the ride

 

[reserved50]

I also noticed the body is not level with the wheel arches(if you made an imaginary line from the front arch to the rear), the front has to sit 1" higher for the frame rails to be level with the ground

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, it's a big compromise. A test session on a race track could sort out the best four corner heights, but that's way beyond practical.