Running Rich, but no CEL 5.0 V-8 | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Running Rich, but no CEL 5.0 V-8

Check The Following PIDs:
DPFEGR (if equipped) (hot idle value within 0.15V of KOEO value)
LONGFT1 / LONGFT2 (value between -20 and +20)
VPWR (value between 10.5 and 17.0 volts, and within 0.5 volts of battery voltage)
 



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Additional Checks:
Correct PCM vehicle identification (VID) block information (refer to Section 2, Flash Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM)
Brake drag
Base engine concerns
Incorrect PCV valve
Contaminated MAF sensor
Intake air system

also check to make sure that the engine is operation at normal tempratures, so it goes into closed loop
 






Thanks for the info. I can answer some of the questions right away. I checked my MAF today, clean as a whistle. My brakes are not dragging because I have no odor associated with dragging brakes. To my knoledge the PVC valve has never been replaced. The air intake system is the stock MAF with an adaptor and K&N air filter. I made a heat shield to block the engine heat from the intake. I cleaned the filter tonight.

I have a friend with a scan tool, but he lives an hour away, so it may be a while before I can get him to check it out.

Still no word on correct fuel pressure at the fuel rail?
 






oh the only thing i can come up with is, its bad if its under 30 and if its over 65 it should set a code, so im assuming it is ok, if i get a chance i will check the FP on my truck tomarrow. you do have a returnless style fuel system, there is a check valve in the sending unit and the fuel pump is pulsewidth modulated. so check those PIDS and let us know what they are. also try putting the stock programming back in and see if it changes
 






Well Im on stock now. I took the programer off to see if it was having a negative effect on mileage. I will check the FP agian tomrrow and have someone help me so I can check it at different RPMs. It may be a week or two before I can get hooked up to a scanner. I may need to invest in a scanner.

Will the scanner on www.scantool.net read the information I need?
 






all your answers for the scan tool workig with your truck are on the scan tool site I believe, that is where you will find out what interface and software you need for your 01 :)
 






Please please, dont check your maf, spray it clean
get some mafs sensor or electric parts cleaner and spray it again
there might be something on the sensor from your "cleaned "filter

really
 






Good point about the MAF, Ill clean it tomrrow.

Im a little worried about the scantool because people are having so many issues with it on the sites forum. I dont want something im going to have to mess with continously to make it work. Still not certain if I want to buy or not.
 






dragging brakes are tested by actually inspecting the brake and wheel, not by odor.
I have yet to use my scantool but heard nothing but great things about them over the last couple of years on this site
 






I have had dragging brakes before on another vehicle. That caused pulling to one side and the odor of hot brakes and wheel grease was excessive.

I drove nearly 100 miles today and had some time to observe my symptoms.

EDIT: Under acceleration or incline climbing (slightest amount), my blend door wont stay where it is supposed to. I suppose my engine isnt keeping enough vacuum to keep it in the propper position. What would cause this? I can kick it out of overdrive and it will work like its supposed to.

I have a shudder under load. Hard acceleration or climbing a grade it gets worse. If I am pulling a trailer or carrying cargo it is nearly constant. It is not tires or wheel bearings, because I can put the transmission in neutral and it quits. It is not engine related because I can rev the engine in neutral and there is no vibration. This is not an extremely harsh vibration, but it can be felt in the floorboard and console. The vibration rattles change in my console.

I don’t know if one is related to the other, but my engine feels "flat". Any kind of load and it seems to make the engine work. Even my relatively light motorcycle that I hauled today made the truck dog down. With the small, light, trailer empty I had no problems.

Here is what I think I need to do:

Change spark plugs to Motorcraft
Replace Fuel Filter
Use electric parts cleaner and clean my MAF

Here is what has been done in the last few days:

I cleaned my K&N air filter (yesterday)
Checked my plug wires for melted or burns- they're OK (2 days ago)
Checked my throttle body -it's clean (2 days ago)
Checked Fuel Pressure - 65 PSI at idle (2 days ago)
Changed trans fluid and filter, also drained torque converter (about 1 month ago)
Changed oil and filter, Motorcraft 5w20
Sea Foamed my engine through the brake booster hose (about 2 weeks ago)

Could I have a bad torque converter?
 






I have been thinking this over, and a faulty torque converter may cause all the problems I have been having with the exception of the high fuel PSI.

Low mileage could be a result of non lockup on highway
Shudder could be caused by torque converter not locking up under load or acceleration

I changed the trans fluid and filter a few weeks ago, and the fluid was in pretty good shape. There was very few fuzzies on the magnet in the pan. But the trans hadnt ever been serviced in 110k prior to me doing it.
 






I may take my truck over to a dealership I know and trust and have them check it out. I really need to know whats wrong with it and get it fixed.

Can anyone tell me how do diagnose a failing torque converter? Or other transmission problems that could cause the same symptoms?
 


















Ill have to try to check that.

Q. Do any other AWD drivers have shudder on hard acceleration or is it smooth?

Im beginning to wonder if the extra power made by my headers and intake are overwhelming my relatively old and possibly overworked torque converter. I bought the truck about a year ago, and it has always had a vibration under acceleration. It has become more pronounced with the headers. I always thought it was something to do with the AWD or possibly feathered tires. Now that I am having increasing difficulty with towing and a harder shudder under acceleration, I wonder if it is the driveline. The shudder is at any speed/gear. The driveshafts apear to be ok, but I would think that they would viberate as long as they are spinning regardless of load. I have ruled out the tires theory because they dont do anything wile rolling at highway speeds with the truck in neutral.
 






what do you mean bu shudders, is it like your driving on rumble strips, or is it a continuous poping feeling, if its the latter, the chain in you t-case is wearing out, this causes the slop to really be " felt" but like i said is more of a poping sensation/sound, also you wouldn't really fell a torque converter unless it was locking up in 3rd gear, then it would feel like the rumble strips
 






the AWD t case is known for these issues
 






Well, this afternoon I put the mountaineer up on jackstands and checked everything out. The front differential seem to be tight. The transfer case has a slight bit of slack, but very little. When I turned the rear driveshaft, the front one turned almost immedately. I did not have time to get the driveshaft down to check the universal jonints, but that is on the agenda for tommrow.

The thing that bothered me is the rear end. The LS works fine, but each wheel has conciderably more slack than the front. I checked my rear end oil, and I could stick my finger in the hole but not touch oil. I got oil on my finger that was clinging to the gear. So I removed the rear cover. The oil was brownish-black in color. I would guess there was about 2.25 quarts, but I did not have a way to measure to know for sure. It did not smell burned. I checked the gears and this is where I need some help. The pinion gear and ring gear look to have a good contact pattern, but the pinion gear extends past the inside of the ring gear by about 1/4". Is this normal? Secondly, the spider gears looked ok, but were much more shiny than the ring and pinion. They were where the slack is in the rear end. The pin at the center sort of shifted as I turned one tire or the other, as in the hole in the center looked elongated. The spider gears on either end of the pin looked to wobble some too. Is this normal? When I turned the tires, it felt kind of rough. I dont know if this is gears or bearings. But the noise seemed to come from the outer part of the axle as opposed to the center. Is it common for the outter bearings to go bad? I know very little about gears, so please fell free to ask/correct me on my terminology. I know what I do from reading the sticky's at the top of this category.

I really need some help to figure this out. Unfortunately, my digital camera is on its way back from being fixed at the moment, so I cannot take pictures of the gears.
I use my Mounty for quite a bit of towing, and need it to be reliable.
 






To answer XzibitA's question:

The viberation is very fine, almost like a massager at highway speeds when towing. Under heavy acceleration, the vibration is almost severe, vibrating the junk lying on my dash and center consloe. It can be felt through the floorboard with shoes on. I have had passengers notice it to the point that they ask about it, so I dont think its my paranoia.
 



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