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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
I think I might have to give that a shot to fix my rockers.
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I used the JB stuff more like caulking nothing structural, it's really the rivets that are holding the parts on there.
There's absolutely no difference between the day I fixed it and what it's like now, none.
On an unrelated note, the bottom of the front doors are started to show some minor rust...
I used the JB stuff more like caulking nothing structural, it's really the rivets that are holding the parts on there.
There's absolutely no difference between the day I fixed it and what it's like now, none.
On an unrelated note, the bottom of the front doors are started to show some minor rust...
Well I just didn't want to invest in a welder + gloves + helmet, etc. at the time.
I know it would be nice to know how but with the thin metal and such, it would have been a little too difficult. However, I thought rivets would work just as well!
That fiberglass bondo dries also very strong...
Dang i wish my rust solution was that simple. Good job on the post tho. I need full rockers to about mid rocker from the dog leg, the whole fender lip on the dog leg and the full QP wh/well from dog leg to trim piece in rear. That would be a whole lta JB Weld. You fix looks good!
Olny problem with the bondo is it will eventualy pull in water if it is to thik and or open to stone chip which will cause paint poping and sooner or later rust. Ive tried the minor repairs but in the long run if you live with salty roads in the winter and humid summers its guna fail.
" Olny problem with the bondo is it will eventualy pull in water if it is to thik and or open to stone chip which will cause paint poping and sooner or later rust. "
Couldn't agree more, if I used regular bondo on this, it was very minor (to smooth out imperfections). Most of it was the fiberglass version, that works a lot better. It's still mostly metal in there though.
I also want to add that I used that steel epoxy paste that can be seen on the pictures, that worked well to fill in some small gaps.
I didn't find it harder to sand than the regular bondo.
I try to sand out as soon as it's hard enough, that makes it easier but even regular bondo can be hard to sand!
The only downside I found was that it's hard to get a smooth bubble free finish with the fiberglass version.
" Olny problem with the bondo is it will eventualy pull in water if it is to thik and or open to stone chip which will cause paint poping and sooner or later rust. "
Couldn't agree more, if I used regular bondo on this, it was very minor (to smooth out imperfections). Most of it was the fiberglass version, that works a lot better. It's still mostly metal in there though.
I also want to add that I used that steel epoxy paste that can be seen on the pictures, that worked well to fill in some small gaps.
Good point lol. It was a good write up tho. Just for a ghetto fix on the wheel well lip of my X i had small holes about the size of a dime and on the size of a razor blade... I used Permatex Liquid Meatl i a tube them bondod over it. Work good for now but im going to do what you did in the near future just going a little further with QP's rockers and doglegs. Yikes
Great job for not having a welder! I am going to be doing very similar repairs on two of mine except i need whole quarters.
If any one finds doglegs or quarters for two doors post the info here. After extensive searching I cannot find them. I have only come up with slip on rockers.
Great job for not having a welder! I am going to be doing very similar repairs on two of mine except i need whole quarters.
If any one finds doglegs or quarters for two doors post the info here. After extensive searching I cannot find them. I have only come up with slip on rockers.
Thanks, I have seen that site before. They do not list quarters for 2 doors, but I have not called them yet either.
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Repair looks great Manuel. I'm just new to the Ranger forum so I just saw the pictures today. I'm wondering how the repair held up using the JB weld epoxy. I'm thinking of doing a similar repair on my 89 ford ranger. Last summer (2009) I repaired a hole in the floor of my 89 with a salvaged piece of sheet metal from the junkyard and attached it using JB weld and that held up good, but that repair wasn't anywhere as intricate or as visible as a rockerpanel repair. Could you please respond about your repair since its been in place for over 2 years. thanks in advance, km from saskatoon, Saskatchewan.