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RV Update / Upgrade Thread

I had mentioned on one of my threads (Purchasing 46.5 Acres Near Kingman, AZ) that I had the inverter/charger fail on the RV while camping. Its a Prosine 2.0 made by Xantrex and lasted about 15 years so I can't complain. I purchased a new unit from Xantrex and its being shipped. Most of the camping I do is dry or boondocking. RV has 600 watt solar system along with the inverter so it does very well for extended stays off grid. I pulled the old unit out and don't like the way the batteries are wired, so I think that's going to be a redo and relocation of half of them. RV is a 35' Class A that is a very well maintained 18 years old.
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The batteries for the system are 4 GS2 group size or golf cart batteries. I am upgrading to AGM's because they last twice as long, charge faster, discharge slower and have no maintenance. They are still heavy mothers though, about 65 pounds each. The current set up which was not installed by me has the inverter/charger in the storage compartment directly in front of the entry door, where most of the electronics are located. Good protected spot. There are two batteries in the entry step well, along with the chassis battery. There are two more in the storage compartment directly behind the step well. What I don't like about that is all the weight of the batteries is all in one spot, on one side. I also don't like how it was wired. I am going to relocate the batteries in the storage compartment to the driver side storage compartment directly across from the step well. It will even out the weight distribution, and free up valuable storage real estate since that is one of the few compartments you can easily access with the slides out. That part should be relatively simple; get a new battery box that is in line instead of side by side, mount it and install the batteries.

The wiring should be simple as well. The current set up has one in line 300 amp fuse that is located in the step well. The batteries in the step well connect to that fuse lug with a very short length of 4/0 welding wire, all good. The batteries in the storage compartment connect to that same lug with about a 4-5' length of same type/gauge wire that runs along with the main wiring harness for the coach. Not so good as there is nothing to protect that section of wire from shorting. From the 300 amp fuse is another 5-6' length of same type/gauge wire that goes to the inverter. Also not so good as there is nothing to protect that section of wire from shorting and frying the inverter. To make it much safer, there should be two more 300 amp in line fuses, one at the other set of batteries and one just before the inverter. The wiring from both battery locations should meet at that fuse with a short length of wire to the inverter. The relocated batteries will have the wiring inside the storage area, since its a full width pass through type compartment. I can use the existing wiring from the step well battery location that already goes to the inverter location for that half.

I found everything on eBay, can't believe how much wire has gone up in the past few months. $4 a foot for 4/0.
 



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Yeah I started thinking on our trip.... does thing even come with a jack? I leave my CAT off road floor jack in there now. It's only 3 ton, but could get me out of a jam. I'd rather change out a 37" tire then one off the motorhome. 😬
Geez, how much do those RV tires weigh? I recall having quite a time with L series tires on the '72 Chrysler Imperial we had. I'm guessing both the 37" tires and the RV tires would weigh quite a lot.
 



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Geez, how much do those RV tires weigh?
I just looked it up. 235/80/22.5 Michelin is 128 pounds. That's why you call a mobile tire guy.
 






I've found the product that quickly breaks down the sticky mess from removing the RV tape, Eternabond.

Purple Power, full strength. Spray it on, wait a few minutes and scrape the goo off. Follow with a PP soaked cloth, then hose the residue off.

Soak your coated tools in full strength PP overnight and the mess wipes off.
 






I've found the product that quickly breaks down the sticky mess from removing the RV tape, Eternabond.

Purple Power, full strength. Spray it on, wait a few minutes and scrape the goo off. Follow with a PP soaked cloth, then hose the residue off.

Soak your coated tools in full strength PP overnight and the mess wipes off.
PP or goo gone work very well, zep also makes some cleaner that works well, cant remember name off the top of my head
 






PP or goo gone work very well, zep also makes some cleaner that works well, cant remember name off the top of my head
I used a entire bottle of Zep and it only made it mad and more gooey. Goo Gone didn't do much either.
 






I used a entire bottle of Zep and it only made it mad and more gooey. Goo Gone didn't do much either.
interesting, really? ive had good luck w/ them. cant speak to RVs but decals and pinstripes they have done well.
 






Eternabond tape is the nastiest stuff I have ever had to deal with. It's considered a permanent repair for RV seam seals. I have some in the RV in case there is roof damage or other leaks that need a quick fix/camp repair. Will not be using it for anything I might have to remove ever again. I was scraping it and the adhesive would stretch three feet. Nasty stuff.
 






I've found the product that quickly breaks down the sticky mess from removing the RV tape, Eternabond.

Purple Power, full strength. Spray it on, wait a few minutes and scrape the goo off. Follow with a PP soaked cloth, then hose the residue off.

Soak your coated tools in full strength PP overnight and the mess wipes off.

Just don't use the Purple Power undiluted in a Harbor Freight parts washer. I did.

It completely removed all the paint from the water line down. I didn't realize it until it was too late and had already run the pump. :(
 






I've been dry camping on my Arizona property since October. The last few weeks the solar hasn't kept the batteries charged. Checked the panels, they're putting out almost 23 volts each. The connector from the panels to the wires is the same. When they are connected to the solar charge controller, the voltage drops to 12.6 max. If I disconnect the wires at the controller, they go back up to almost 23 volts. The controller has no adjustments, it's supposed to be automatic. It was allowing over 14 volts for bulk and 13.6 for float charge before this. I tried to reset it, got the same readings.

I think I need a new controller. I have two, 190 watt panels so would want a 40 amp minimum. I also want a flush mount and have limited space in the panel, 6"x5". The space behind the panel has quite a bit of room, and I can make more. The rear panels of the cabinet are removable to access the shower plumbing, and there is room back there, and open space for heat dissipation.

Solar controller is the bottom one with three green lights.
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I haven't found any flush mount controllers that will fit in that space, but I did find one from Bouge RV that has a remote display. I'm sure I can make the controller fit behind the panel, with the wired remote mounted to the front of the panel.

I'll keep looking for controllers, but think that is the one I will be getting. Should be back in San Diego next week so I can order one then.
 






I'll keep looking for controllers, but think that is the one I will be getting. Should be back in San Diego next week so I can order one then.

They have some really awful reviews for that site. They have an overall high rating, but check out all the "1s".

I checked because it looks like some sites I have seen advertised on Facebook that look like scammer sites.
 












Now, I'm looking at solar chargers I can mount in the basement storage with a cabled remote display/control. I'm not interested in Bluetooth, want a actual physical connection between charger and panel.

EPEVER MPPT Solar Charge Controller 40A 150V PV Solar Panel Controller Negative Ground W/ MT50 Remote Meter + Temperature Sensor PC Monitoring Cable[Tracer4215BN] https://a.co/d/2AZXG0G

EPEVER 40A MPPT Solar Charge Controller 12V 24V Auto, 40 amp Negative Grounded Solar Charge Controller MPPT Max Input 100V, 520W/1040W for Lead-Acid, Lithium Batteries and Load Timer Setting https://a.co/d/hV4Clt3

I think there is enough room to mount the controller in the storage below where it is now. It would only add a few feet to the panel wires and shorten the battery wires. That storage area also holds the 50 amp shore power plug/box and cable, so it would move power supplies to the same spot. Would make it easy to run the battery temp sensor wire, since a battery bank is only 10' away.

There is a removable plastic panel I discovered in the basement when running the new panels and battery wiring. The wiring for the solar, and some other stuff, is behind that panel. I could replace the plastic panel with a piece of plywood and mount the controller to that. Would be a better location for heat dissipation. Need to get under there with a measuring tape.
 






I have an older 40AMP MPPT controller, with remote display, you can have, just pay shipping.. Has battery temperature sensors, and remote battery voltage sensing.
 












I'm right at the high limit for a 30 amp with 400 watts. I'll get myself a 40 amp controller.

Thanks for the offer
 






Took a look in the bay, plenty of room for a charge controller. The black panel is thin plastic, so I would need something a little sturdier, like thin plywood.
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I think I'm going to purchase this charge controller. It has good reviews, and I've also watched a half dozen comparison videos, and this one is always in the top few.
EPEVER MPPT Solar Charge Controller 40A 150V PV Solar Panel Controller Negative Ground W/ MT50 Remote Meter + Temperature Sensor PC Monitoring Cable[Tracer4215BN] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07429RK43?tag=seriouexplor-20

There are a few Victron Energy units that I also like, but would then have to purchase a separate battery temp sensor, displays, etc. It uses Bluetooth for monitoring, which I don't want. It appears the controllers that have optional displays are $450 and up. Victron makes nice stuff, but I don't want to spend $800.

The deciding factor will be when I run a fish tape marked at two meters, from where the display needs to be located to where the controller needs to be, because the data cable for the EPEVER display is only two meters long. I think it's long enough, but need to be sure before I buy one.

Most of my electrical stuff is at the house
I'll be back in a few days, so will do it after I deep clean the coach and stick it back under the awning. Sure would be a lot easier in my RV garage, he says sounding like a broken record.
 






I left the solar controller disconnected overnight. It seems to be charging faster today, but is still constricting PV to under 12.6 volts. It should be at 14.2 in an absorption charge.
 






Probably a stupid question, but does it have any settings that could be factory defaulted more in depth than leaving it unplugged?

I’ve ran into issues with VFDs where everything seemed set right, but a factory default would get them going again.
 



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It's automatic. Only has one button, and that's to change the battery type, which is missing the orange light in the selection, green sealed, orange gel and red flooded. Now it's, green, lime green and red.

It's not a MPPT charger, old style Renogy Wanderer. It did get up to 13.3 volts today so the reset did something, but that's not up to the float charge voltage. Its time for a upgrade in any case.
 






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