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SAS is now underway!

Ok - the front swap is underway. I will be using:
'75 EB D44
JD 3.5" VR coils
JD radius arm drop brackets
F150 discs and knuckles
JD track-bar mount

Brake lines will be run either to the center of the axle and split there (similar to the EB setup) or run down the frame and back up the RA to avoid the brake lines getting twisted or caught up in the springs.

I will be swapping the yoke in the D44 to match the current driveshaft. Will I have any issues with driveshaft length in the front?

Steering - have some questions here - what is the tie-rod-over-knuckle thing I've heard of?

J
 


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FMExplorer

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Test fit
 

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FMExplorer

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Here's another axle shot
 

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cableguy

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are you talking about the calipers to the backing plates?

or are you talking brake lines to calipers?



I would imaging you would need ball joints for a 79 F150 or bronco. the axle housing itself should be the same, just the outers are different. I would go to a REAL auto parts store and ask someone. NOT autozone one pep boys! They will give you the wrong part three times before they figure it out.

Are you using the stock c-bushings that I sent with it? Just wondering, cause the camber may be way off unless you use dropdown brackets to mount the radius arms to the frame. Different degree camber bushings can be bought pretty cheap and can be put in after everything else is done to compensate for the wrong camber. Better to wait till everything is up in there first!
 




FMExplorer

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Actually - 2 questions on mounting - 1 - brakes to backing plate... 2 - backing plate to knuckle. That looks like bolts go through the knuckle and backplate to the hub.

As far as bushings go - I have all new bushungs coming. Not sure if I should get the 2 or 4 degree C bushings. I am also using adjustable RA drop brackets.

Hopefully I can set up the gears next Saturday, then on Monday I should have the spring cups and buckets in place. Then I can figure out shocks - single or dual, tower height and so on.

After that I need to figure out how to convert the rear to 5x5.5" and convert to discs as well. Would love truck brakes instead of explorer brakes. Also - if I am not using ABS, can I still use the '93 master cylinder?

J
 




tiessen

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Originally posted by FMExplorer
Actually - 2 questions on mounting - 1 - brakes to backing plate... 2 - backing plate to knuckle. That looks like bolts go through the knuckle and backplate to the hub.

As far as bushings go - I have all new bushungs coming. Not sure if I should get the 2 or 4 degree C bushings. I am also using adjustable RA drop brackets.

Hopefully I can set up the gears next Saturday, then on Monday I should have the spring cups and buckets in place. Then I can figure out shocks - single or dual, tower height and so on.

After that I need to figure out how to convert the rear to 5x5.5" and convert to discs as well. Would love truck brakes instead of explorer brakes. Also - if I am not using ABS, can I still use the '93 master cylinder?

J

1. You'll need some studs for the knuckles I sent you. Caliper bracket on next, then spindle.
2. Go at least 4 degree bushings.
3. All Dana44 balljoints are the same.
4. Use F250 shock towers, Ford part PN# E5TZ 18183A
5. Single shocks should be fine.
6. Buy some new rear shafts from Dutchman or Moser (you can redrill the new pattern in yours but really not much material...maybe good for spares)
7. I'm running F150 drums (11") instead of the X 10" drums and feel the brakes are good all around.

I don't know about the ABS.

Cheers
Dale
 




Muskrat

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cool, I'm doing the same swap, but I'm going to use my existing buckets. Now I have something to go by once I get all my parts together, mine should actually start, soon, I know I've been saying this for a while, but I need to get the axle swapped in and funtional in a weekend:D not too worried about 4wd right now, just replacing my bent ttb stuff
 




Isles4evr

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Originally posted by FMExplorer
Also - if I am not using ABS, can I still use the '93 master cylinder?

I am pretty sure that they are the same between abs and non abs... i believe the difference is in the VSS. But you would definitly have to remove the VSS and all the wiring and fuse for the abs. But don;t quote me on it because I havn;t had that much experience with the abs X's.

Chris
 




FMExplorer

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Chris,
My ABS fuse is out, but I still need to get rid of the vss? what's that :confused:

This weekends project: I will be re-gearing and rebuilding the center section of the D44. Gears will be 4.56's with a lockrite locker. New bearings and races as well. Pics and small write-up to follow!

Jon
 




tiessen

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Originally posted by FMExplorer
Chris,
My ABS fuse is out, but I still need to get rid of the vss? what's that :confused:

This weekends project: I will be re-gearing and rebuilding the center section of the D44. Gears will be 4.56's with a lockrite locker. New bearings and races as well. Pics and small write-up to follow!

Jon

You don't need to get rid of the VSS, it's the tone ring on your rear 8.8" ring gear. Vehicle Speed Sensor.

With the regearing, take it slow. I just regeared my 44 and it took about 3 hrs with a press for the bearings. Do you have an install manual. I'm sure Randy's sent one, if not look on his website.

Good luck.

Geez, 4.56 with a lockrite, your following my footsteps almost exactly. So are you buying 37" MTR's next;)
 








Isles4evr

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Alright scratch the VSS ;) . One thing on gearing that helps out... don't use the new cruch sleave until you have fininshed shimming... be a damn shame to use one only to find out you have to pull it apart and reshim!
 




FMExplorer

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Dale - 3 hurs? Cool - I was thinking more like 6-8. I know the pinion depth should be .042" for shims and I have cheater bearing for the carrier to set it up. And no - I am gett 36x12.50 TSL/SX's :)

Mudd - Thanks - I'll get the 4's

Isles - I know - crush sleeve doens't go on until I KNOW it's set up right - that would suck :)

J
 




RangerG

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I got 3.5" VR WH coils and I used 79 bronco radius arm brackets and I used 7 deg. Might be a little much but I think 4 deg would be to little for me. Ofcourse I changed my ride height a little but using 79 bronco upper coil buckets.

36"X12.5" TLS/SX...................I got them and love them!
 




VonZipper

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When you disconnect the ABS on your X, you will be left with 50/50 brakes. You really should find a valve from like the rear of a Toyota to give you 60/40 brakes. Or, you can change the master cylinder. On the rear of a Toy, there is a 1/2" or so bar that goes from the axle up to a valve mounted to the frame, that is the bow you want. Remember the location of the arm. Unloaded ( meaning the truck is not filled with crap ) the valve will be sitting at 60% front brakes and 40% rear. That is how you want to permanatly configure that valve. Once it is weighted down ( the truck ) it moves the valve to be 50/50.

Have fun. Oh yeah, just so you know. Right under the drivers seat, mounted to the frame is the electronic valve from Ford. Thats on a 92, so it might not apply to you. But that little box costs $800.00 to replace.
 




FMExplorer

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Ok Von Zipper - hang on here...

1st - I think I am lost on the valve. I've been running w/o ABS for about a year - and it is braking 50/50 instead of 60% front? No wonder my rear brakes are shot! Now - this valve... I will have to do some searching to see if I can find what you are talking about. It almost sounds easier to get a new master cylinder.

2nd - HOW THE HELL DID YOU FIT A 351 IN YOUR TRUCK!!!

I have a lead on a free 351 that I was planning on building to drop in my mustang and then take the 5.0 to the explorer. Give me some details on your swap - email, pm, new thread - whatever, I NEED TO KNOW!

Thanks :)

J
 




RFR2212

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Originally posted by FMExplorer
2nd - HOW THE HELL DID YOU FIT A 351 IN YOUR TRUCK!!!

Very easily. He put it in! Actually with the heads being taller, it brings in tighter clearances for headers, motor mounts things of that sort. He coulda done it differently, but in general, ya gotta customize more, and move stuff around. There are rangers out there with 460's under their hood.
Pete
 




RangerG

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I re-ran all my brake lines (front and back) when I did my SAS and just junked the ABS motor. So you are saying that straight off the master cylinder you have 50/50? I thought they master cylinder was kind-of a portioning value (i.e. one piston in the master cylinder moved farther for the front (disk) then the rear (drums)).


I don't like how soft my brakes are now so I might have to find a different/bigger master cylinder to fit the explorer. I guess I should also but in a portioning valve.
 




VonZipper

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While laying under your rig, look at the frame rails under the drivers seat. You will see the fuel lines, and the brake lines. Follow the lines down a bit towards the front, or rear, depending on where you started. You will see a little aluminum box that has the rear brake line connecting to it, and has a few wires.

Since you have had it off, you should have noticed that when you turn, and brake at the same time, you can get the inside rear tire to slide. That is caused by the 50/50.

You can live without it, but you can probally buy a 60/40 valve from a autoparts store.

As for my expoder, unfortunatly I did it before I knew about this place. I could have done alot of photos and write up.

I put in a 302 with a c-4 first. I used a set of 70 Ford van motor mounts. All that had to be done was drill new holes in the cross member for those. I used the complete front accessory bundle from a 84 Grand Marquis for all of that. Dual Electric Be Cool fans w/ shroud. I had to put the radiator in front of the core support, behind the grill. You cannot tell it is there. I would take some pic's, but I cannot post them here yet.

Once it was all in, I found a minor problem with the 302, it had a cracked cylnder wall. So out it came and I picked up a 78 351W. I was told it was the same as a 302, they are all wrong. It is huge in their compared to a little 302. All I had to do was raise the motor mounts about a half inch, and put the 302 exhaust manifolds on it. The 351 manifolds will hit the steering box. One thing I have not done yet is to rebuild the heater box, oh yeah, A/C is gone. You have to take off one side of the heater box to get everything in, and it will not go back on without mods.
 




RangerG

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did your explorer have 4-wheel abs?
 


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VonZipper

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92 X? I have no idea. I never locked up a tire until that little box failed, then the rear would lock often when braking hard. Once I replaced that box it all worked great again. Now that I put in the 351, I do not have it again. No computer to check all of the sensors.

I would assume it is four wheel abs, but I am not sure.
 




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