SAS The start!

[zukman]

Stic-o's SAS build cost well over 5K and that was just the correct parts! That 5K did not include labor, welding rods, electricity, and many other materials.

 

[lounge lizard]

LOL

I love that link man!

 

[chad551]

I know my leaf setup was over $5k. My 35" KM2 tires were close to 1400.00 and the rims were $800.00.
Axle- 150.00
Complete axle setup kit (gaskets, bearings, seals, etc) I dont remember but prolly about 100.00
ARB locker- 800.00
Gears (used) 150.00
Superior Chromo Shafts 700.00
CTM Ujoints 300.00
New leafs- 350.00
Shackles- 50.00
5x5.5 front hub conversion 400.00
Warn lockouts 80.00
shocks 80.00
F250 shock towers- 50.00
DOM and other steel about 200.00 Tube adapters from BTF 60.00
Custom brackets from Ruffstuff was prolly 150.00
High Steer Arms 180.00
High steer knuckles (used) 150.00
Brake calipers, and pads 100.00
Braided brake lines- 100.00
Ball joints 200.00
1-ton TRE 200.00
Steering box 140.00
5x5.5 adapters for the rear axle 100.00
There is alot more I am forgetting and that is probably a good thing.
Welding gas, I went through about 3 bottles at 45.00 each and dont remember the price for the MIG wire.
At Least 8 30packs of Coors Light @ 19.00 each $152.00

My labor= PRICELESS!!!

Good luck with the 5k budget, and paying a shop to do the work. I just do not see how it is possible, there is over $5k in just parts for my SAS.

 

[crazyflights]

My only 2cents are do what makes you happy, but I did have 5.13s with 35s and it sucks on the Highway you may want to consider 4.56s unless you dont wanna go freeway speeds post pics when its done..

 

[mrbird09]

i appreciate the help guys and your inputs. from looking through the threads and doing research this is possible. remember guys im not wheeling so i dont think i would need all the parts you guys put on it cause they break but yet again i can be wrong. i dont want to buy a new truck ive always wanted to wrench on my baby. i was going towards a BL about 2 months ago untill i found out about the SAS. I dont have a 5k limit to spend i have a job and can buy parts or whatever is needed.. i just want this thing up and running..I would do a lift kit if they made one for my 95 ex and i havnt found any lift kits to fit the sec gen. if its safer and cheaper ill take that route. but my rear will be stock and thats less money on an axel and more towards gears for it. ive seen dana 30 with 4.56 for highway and guys say they run great! ill just have to do without a front driveshaft untill i get one or extend it. im already going to extend my rear shaft as well.

 

[mrbird09]

My only 2cents are do what makes you happy, but I did have 5.13s with 35s and it sucks on the Highway you may want to consider 4.56s unless you dont wanna go freeway speeds post pics when its done..

see he drives on the freeways with his rig why cant i?? oh and i have looked into stic-o thread and thats the way i want it to look since it looks sooooooo f'in pretty. i found some parts for dirt cheap cause the junk yards here in the bay are flowin with danas waiting to be swaped out..ive seen some cheap cheap dana 30s?? i know the 44 is stronger but i want lighter and im not wheeling very often so idk if i need a 44.

 

[Randall]

I don't think anyone said you couldn't drive it on the freeway, I must have missed it. I drove mine on the freeway plenty, with 35's, 4.88's and no sway bars. I also used it as a daily driver for 5+ years after the SAS, but to say that it was practical in the least would be a bit obtuse.

 

[yostyexplorer94]

see he drives on the freeways with his rig why cant i?? oh and i have looked into stic-o thread and thats the way i want it to look since it looks sooooooo f'in pretty. i found some parts for dirt cheap cause the junk yards here in the bay are flowin with danas waiting to be swaped out..ive seen some cheap cheap dana 30s?? i know the 44 is stronger but i want lighter and im not wheeling very often so idk if i need a 44.

My solid axle swap is about done. I almost wish I didn't do mine because of the amount of time and money I have dropped into the whole ordeal. (When I can actually wheel it my opinion will change). I had a bunch of parts gathered up and took a $3000 loan out to finish buying ****. The only thing I didn't do myself is lengthen the drive shaft. I setup my own gears so I saved about $500 - $600 in shop labor.

If I wasn't doing all the labor myself, I would have never done my sas. I wouldn't be able to afford it, or want to afford it for that matter. I would be cruising in an old toyota that had a solid axle already.

I ran a 3" body lift and 2" spacers for about a year and wouldn't have sas if I didn't wheel it. That combination did great on the highway. The 2" spacers would be equivalent to a 2" torsion twist for yours.

I am 21 years old and started my swap at 20 years old. I am not in college and wouldn't consider an extreme swap like this if I was in college. I would have had to hold a full time job down while in college too (if I would have went) so I would have never had time to do anything.

I would look at getting another vehicle easier and cheaper to lift rather than do what you want to do. It's your explorer and I am not trying to be rude or down what you are doing. Just make sure you don't do something that you are gonna hate yourself for down the road.

Also his rig does drive down the freeway, but it doesn't have to because it isn't a daily driver. (wait I am not sure about bronco2guy idk if he has solid axle cause he was giving you advise on gears). Most people on here who solid axle have another vehicle for daily driving. I still plan on driving mine to work once a week because I want to, not because I have to. I have a f150 as my daily driver.

 

[crazyflights]

My SASd vehicles have never been dailey drivers, but CHad551 does dailey drive his? So it is done! Also I never have taken any of mine out for long hauls on the freeway. I know the Ranger/Bronco *my bad orginally said explorer it had 4.88 and 35s* I had with 5.13s and 35s was great offroad but had alot to be desired on the road. Also i believe it can be done for less than 5k, maybe not in California but here in Missouri I would do it for $1000 u supply parts.

 

[mrbird09]

My SASd vehicles have never been dailey drivers, but CHad551 does dailey drive his? So it is done! Also I never have taken any of mine out for long hauls on the freeway. I know the Ranger/Bronco *my bad orginally said explorer it had 4.88 and 35s* I had with 5.13s and 35s was great offroad but had alot to be desired on the road. Also i believe it can be done for less than 5k, maybe not in California but here in Missouri I would do it for $1000 u supply parts.

finally someody speaking my language. i would love to have you do it but i do have a guy interested out here in cali. if this falls through maybe i can rent a trailor and go for a road trip idk maybe ha..i have the parts so im waiting for an estimate from this local guy but if its higher than that which it might be then ill let you know.

 

[chad551]

My truck is my daily driver. I drive it to 1300 miles to Moab and push it hard, and then drive it back home to MO. A SAS'ed vehicle can be driven daily if built correctly.

 

[mrbird09]

My truck is my daily driver. I drive it to 1300 miles to Moab and push it hard, and then drive it back home to MO. A SAS'ed vehicle can be driven daily if built correctly.

thats exactly what im going for..is it better with the leafs in the front or spring to be a DD.i like the springs and i think that will be easier way to go? from the research ive done

 

[Elessar65]

Leaf springs are easier and cheaper generally, it all depends on what axle you are swapping, and what you are swapping it into. Coils and radius arms are a pretty good way to go also, especially if you can get all that stuff with the donor axle. As far as whats best? Depends on your uses, for me I would say double triangulated 4 link front and rear with coilovers or air shocks. (Hey, I can dream) But thats me, I play in the rocks, and its not a DD.

I don't remember if you said what axle you are using, but I would go with whatever the axle is setup for, if you get it with all the stuff. If you have a bare housing then you are already starting from scratch so might as well do it the way you want.

 

[yostyexplorer94]

If you go with a full width dana 44 out of a late 70's bronco or f150, get the ford 9" rear out of that same truck or find an 8.8 out of a 1996 or older f150/bronco. Then you wont be setting gears up in an axle that will be using spacers, set them up in the right width axle. The full width 8.8 is the same as your explorer's rear.... just wider! Good luck and definitely post pictures.

 

[lounge lizard]

mine will be a daily driver. I drive it everyday as it is now. I plan on wheeling it too, with people from here and with some from other sites.

with that said! my build plan is to install my swap in 72 hrs. yes that is right! over a weekend starting on Friday or Friday night. I will cut the front end out and roll in the new one and install it.

BUT!

I have been putting this thing together for a few years, making sure that every modification is going to ease the install. not throw a bunch of parts on the ground and say have at it.

now people here and on other sites will and have said that I'm crazy! and it can't be done.
now that is where the challenge lies.

but that also is where I get confused reading this thread. in one sentence you say your building with your dad who builds cars/trucks then the next statement you are sending it to a shop to have it built.
if you are going to do the build yourself with your dad then Great! Then listen to what is being said and take note. these guys have installed their swaps themselves, they know what they are doing and there is not much that they have not run into and solved for problems under these trucks.

if you are having a shop build it. that is fine! you have the money to do so, then just say so! that is the only issue I have with this. just be honest about the direction it is going in.
the guys will still will have insight into what the shop might run into that will bog the build down. and give you advise on how you can help the shop resolve issues quickly to keep your build on track and not stuck in the parking lot waiting to figure out the next step.

if you do not have axles and you are going full width axles it will be cheaper in the long run to grab both donor axles off the truck at the same time. everything will match including rims which will be an issue that I will have to deal with.

 

[chad551]

Leaf springs are easier and cheaper generally

I have to respectfully disagree. I thought the same thing that they would be cheaper. I dont think it is. With the leaf setup you need high steer and that adds some $$$$ and leaf springs are not really that cheap either.

Easier swap?? With my limited experience I would say leafs are easier.

 

[mrbird09]

im throwing ideas out there to get opinions so i know what not to do..but im doing the swap either way so..but i was looking at going to a shop but it 70 per hour cheapest..i found a local guy not a shop a garage who has 20 years plus in sas swaps. he said 1k for th install since he know what hes doing and i plan about 5-7k in total install with tires and rims..im getting $50 each 15x10 rims on 35x12.5 15. idk the tire just yet not really worried bout those right now..im trying to get my hands on some chevy tres and a nice steer setup like off of other trucks i can take and use??

 

[CodePoet]

Just use 1ton chevy tre's. For a street queen avoid heims.

 

[IZwack]

Just use 1ton chevy tre's. For a street queen avoid heims.

Ah but that would drive up the cost - TREs + bungs + DOM and maybe a reamer.

 

[Burns]

Ah but that would drive up the cost - TREs + bungs + DOM and maybe a reamer.

The more and more we actually think about the practicality of this build we see that the cost goes up more and more.