SEA FOAM!!! | Page 6 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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SEA FOAM!!!

I used it the other day and now my truck runs like new. It now idles so smooth I thought it stalled. The only thing is it smoked so much my neighbor thought my truck was on fire.
 



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Your local Ford dealer sells the something simular called "Decarb". Comes in a can with a twist top. Open it, start your engine, stick the brake boost hose in the can and it sucks it dry. And oh ya, smokes the skeeters right out of the neighborhood!
 






Antone remember using the carbon cleaner that came in the metal quart can? (many years ago) Directions said to slowly pour 1/2 the can thru the carb while running, then on the last 1/2 of the can dump all at once stalling the moter, wait 15 minutes and start, wow, talk about removing carbon, my old cougar left a large black mark on my mom's garage from the tail pipe after start up!(unhappy mom) I have also used the straight water technique thru the carb, sounds nasty but it works.
 






I used 1/3 of the bottle in my break boost hose while the car was running at around 2-3k RPM's and then I turned off the x. Waited 5 minutes, started it up and now the check engine light is on? I disconnected the negative wire from my battery for a few seconds and reconnected it and every electronic device in my x reset but the Check Engine light is still on! How do I get rid of this!?!?

Btw, my ticking noise (lifters) still tick just the same after the SeaFoam.
 






I seriously doubt that the Sea Foam caused the CEL.

It can be reset with a scanner as well as the trouble code can be determined.

Let us know......
 






Ugh, my dad told me to leave my truck the f@%! alone and I should've listened cause now I'm probably going to have to take it to the Ford Dealership and have them turn that freakin light off in the dash. I don't notice any difference in the vehicle but... oh well. Should've just not done the whole SeaFoam thing.
 






The light may just go off by itself if the problem was temporarily caused by the Seafoam.(Although I agree with Al that it probably wasn't) I would drive it for a week to see if the light goes off.

Also, you don't have to go to the dealership to get the light turned off. Find a parts store like Autozone that will scan for you and ask them to reset the codes after telling you what the code is.

Get the exact number of the code and post it here - someone will be able to tell you what it means.
 






Dad said it might've screwed up the oxygen sensor but I think it says right on the can that it's guarranteed OS safe.
 












Anyone know if the brake booster will feed al 6(8 in my case :) )cylinders? I read on here that the booster would mainly feed the rear cylinders, and that there was a better vacuum line to use, like the PCV.
 






I want to know too...it sure sounds reasonable enough. The TB vacuum port was suggested. I may try that next time. It's more of a pain to pull that TB vac hose than it is the BB hose though.
 






Drewfus04 said:
Dad said it might've screwed up the oxygen sensor but I think it says right on the can that it's guarranteed OS safe.

Tell your Dad to relax and take your truck to AutoZone. They will scan the codes for free, and even reset it if you want them to. If the SeaFoam treatment sent your O2 sensors out of spec, they were probably bad anyway.

Blue
 






Mbrooks420 said:
Anyone know if the brake booster will feed al 6(8 in my case :) )cylinders? I read on here that the booster would mainly feed the rear cylinders, and that there was a better vacuum line to use, like the PCV.
My reccomendation is to get Deep Creep:
http://www.seafoamsales.com/deepCreep.htm

It's sea foam with a propellant so you can stick the hose attachement on and spray it past your MAF right into the TB/intake. That has worked best for me.

If you just want to use a vaccum line, I have never had a problem using my brake booster line+deep creep, and I always get a smoke show. :D
 






no smoke?

i just used 6oz of seafoam in my engine. i poured it into a small contact solution bottle and let the brake booster line suck it up. the engine never died and after all 6oz was in i let engine idle for like a min then shut it off. sat for 8 mins and it started all good, however there was no smoke. I know the cat is not blocked because i "unblocked" it about 8 mos ago with a broom handle and a shop vac :p . did i do something wrong|?
 






So you gutted the cat with a broomstick and a shop vac?
 






yeah pretty much... but why no smoke from the sea foam? is that bad or just how it is?
 






I think it depends on the carbon deposits in the motor, and how well you did the treatment. Also with no cat more of the carbon would likely flow out as solids. Gutting a cat is irresponsible, and unnecessary since they now make high flow cats for less than $75. People doing this is what causes the envirnmental freaks to lobby for stricter emmisions testing, and inspections, which all of the good people who keep their car in clean running order have to pay for out of pocket.
 






actually my truck had an emissions inspection yesterday and passed with flying colors. not to mention it is no different than getting an "off road pipe" what makes a high flow cat "high flow" and how can it still be effective?
 






You passed emmisions because the cat is visually there. You wouldn't pass a tail pipe sniffer. A high flow cat flows at a higher rate due to a larger catalyst area. Just like having a bigger air filter would let in more air. How is it different than an off road pipe? Off road vehicles aren't driven daily. Hence the name "off road" pipe, and they are also illegal to run on a "on road" vehicle. High flow cats won't restrict your hot rod 4.0 any.
 



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If you use the vacuum line in the throttle body, and NOT the brake booster line, you would feed the seafoam to ALL cylinders.

Ryan
 






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