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SEA FOAM!!!

nweibley, I just dont like the idea of putting anything other then oil in my engine. It just cant be good for it.

And that is precisely why Ford recommends you change your oil after doing this. Ford has an army of engineers and if they recommend something, it's been tested and re-tested. Seafoam or PM-3 is not harmful.

I understand what the product does, I just dont like the way it does it. I just dont like the idea of putting this stuff in a vac hose while the engine is running and then watch a ton of white smoke pour out the pipe!

I didn't get any smoke. All I know is the stuff seems to have WORKED and it's not pinging with 87 octane anymore. My mechanic recommended it. Ford recommends it if you've got carbon knock. Seafoam is functionally identical to the Ford PM-3 cleaner.
 



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Indeed, on both the cars I have done it to, neither smoked. One I got some carbon deposits in the water from the exhaust, the other didnt do anything much but smell bad, and both run very smoothly and ping free.
You don't really need to do it, but if you've got ping, you can be pretty sure this will help alot.
-----Nate
 






Well, since installing an Apten chip and running 93 octane, ive developed a light ping. The engine does have a very light engine knock sometimes. Not very often though.

So pouring this stuff in the PCV or Break booster hose is safe?
 






As long as you dont pour alot at a time or let it stall from pour too much, you should be good to go.
My personal method is taking a 'sandwhich' sized ziplock bag, filling it about 1/3rd full... zipping it tight, turning it upside down, and pinching a small hole in one of the bottom corners. All you have to do is keep that corner up, and pre-charge it with a little (mabey a 1/2oz) seafoam in the top, and just hold the corner near the end of the vacuum hose. The suction will draw the seafoam out slowly, and it will essentially mix it with the air as it flys from the bag to the hose. It works very well and my engine never wanted to stall... so I think it is the best way.
-----Nate
 






All right, I guess I'll give the stuff a try.

I have a carquest right down the street, maybe they will carry it.

Thanks for the tips. :)
 






I didnt read through the whole thread.....
I have used Sea Foam on several cars and it is completely safe for your engine if you use it right.
You let the vacuum hose slowly suck the sea foam up while the engine is running. You let it suck it up slowly as much as you want then shut the engine off. Let it sit for about 10 minutes then start it up....white smoke everywhere and a clean engine. =)
 






Originally posted by psychotic
HMM... how long does that greyish white smoke pour from my exhaust?!???? it says fumes will be strong for a short time, how long is a short time??? It didn't start up easy, did it blow a head gasket?!!!!!!!?

LOL.. why the heck would you put seafoam in a 2002 vehicle? Unless you have 50k plus miles, you havent driven it enough to need anything. Chances are, YOU STILL HAVE A NEW VEHICLE AND DO NOT NEED THIS!!!!
 






does any nice guy wanna post a pic of either of the 2 vaccum lines i can use? I just wanna make sure.
 






yea im kinda confused as to where exactly this stuff goes.
Ive heard the technical terms but they dont really do much for me. im still left pondering
 






Originally posted by 410Fortune
CARQUEST

also I hear Amsoil makes a version of this product called POwer Foam....so you can get it from your local Amsoil dealer if you dont have Carquest.

I;m sure if you look around you can find similar products. made to clean the intake and carbon from pistons....

Yes, The power foam is very similar but one can is enough for two treatments. Or sometimes I use the last 1/4 of the can to clean the exterrior of the engine. It's labeled for this purpose too.

How the AMSOIL Power Foam works, is it's a aerosol. You can just insert the tube in the same vacuum port or slightly open the intake hose at the manifold and spray in as long as the air flow sensor does not detect the loss of air.

You spray until you get to at least 1/2 the can then you quickly cut off the engine. (I have someone cut it off while I spray.) You let it sit for several minutes while the foam it creates soaks into the carbon buildup reaching the top of the chambers.
Then you crank it up and drive out the substance..
Just my personal note: I then spray down some carb cleaner to get any loose carbon.

The last time I did this It was noticable. My throttle response felt much improved.

This works just as well in carburated engines.

AMSOIL Power foam is $4.25 through me and I suggest doing it prior to changing the oil but talking to AMSOIL Tech services they said that is not necessary when using a high detergent oil such as Al Amatuzio Oil (AMSOIL)

Ches
www.syntheticwarehouse.com
 






Your veh is new?

It doesn't seem that a 2002 would have that much carbon build up. Also the carbon will have to go somewhere, hopefully doesn't get stuck in a valve seat.
 






Another similar product is Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner, also labeled as Combustion Chamber Conditioner. Comes in a spray can application which some find simpler.

-Drive until engine warm.
-Disconnect rubber throttle body intake from TB.
-While idling, spray entire can into TB opening, increasing throttle just enough to prevent stalling.
-When can is near empty stop spraying and shut off engine immediately.
-Let sit for 10+ minutes.
-Start & idle 5min while waiting for white smoke to clear.
(More may appear once you drive and load the engine.)

Regardless of cleaner brand or form, if you want to be thorough it takes a direct cylinder application and soaking. That means several hours or overnight. Direct application to the cylinders is the best way to clean ring deposits, even free stuck rings. This can reduce consumption and really help compression. Do this BEFORE the above procedure:

-Remove the plugs and spray 2-3 seconds in each cylinder. If liquid, pour 1oz. (I use a small funnel stuck into fuel line that goes into the cylinder.)
-Let sit, ideally overnight. At least long enough to allow the cleaner to drain or evaporate and not hydrolock the engine.
-*safety step if impatient or not sure* Cover the engine, or at least the plug openings with a towel. With the plugs still out, bump over the starter a few revolutions. This helps remove any remaining liquid from the cylinders. The towel will prevent any excess from creating a mess. *
-Replace the plugs, warm it up again and do the first sequence.

It's a good idea to change the oil after completing one of these flushes. The solvents break down the oil and hasten oxidation. Used directly in the intake, they also clean enough ring/cylinder deposits that some nasty junk will get into the oil, further messing with its chemistry. These treatments can also contaminate your plugs.

After a few years of doing this type of work you'll learn to work it into your normal maintenance schedule so you do it right _before_ the oil/plugs/O2sensors. Depends on the engine mileage & condition of course. If there's less junk to clean there won't be as much effect on oil/plugs/sensors. But then very few people with a 1-2yr old vehicle need to use these products.

Dave
 






Anyone have any pictures of where and how to find the PCV valve on a 95 XLT? IS the brake booster line easier to access?

Thanks!
 






JayTye4k said:
Anyone have any pictures of where and how to find the PCV valve on a 95 XLT? IS the brake booster line easier to access?

Thanks!

This is a illustration for the 4.0 L OHV
 

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Using the brake booster line is very easy.
 






and where is this brake booster line?
 






brake booster cable is a tube that goes from the right side of the engine to the big black circle in the upper right corner. You disconnect it from the black metal circle, turn on the engine, and it acts like a mini vacum tube for you to slowly(slowly or else your engine will stall) pour seafoam in using a baggy with the corner cut or a small funnel.
 






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You guys are awesome. Thank you so much for the info and have a great weekend!


Cheers,


Jay
 



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i work at advance auto and we have it. good stuff.
 






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