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SEA FOAM!!!

Can someone please post a pic or two of the vacuum line to the TB? Also, any directions on the easiest way to remove the hose would be good...

Thanks!
 



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86505_0_GRID-med.jpg
I am a little in the dark on this as well. I looked around but couldn't find anything I felt comfortable dumping the Seafoam in. I know, I know, it's filthy. It was due for it's cleaning almost a 1,000 miles ago. Can anyone point me in the right direction via grid. :rolleyes:
 






Bump, C'mon someone has to know where this vacuum line is on the TB. :)
 






heh a 302, which I am not quite as familiar with. To be honest, it's probably off your grid. South of it. The TB vac port is usually on the bottom of the TB, and the line may run across the bottom of your grid there, below the coil pack. Or it may run UNDER the coil pack. Find the bottom of the TB, it'll be there.

Of course, there's always the BB line, around "H".
 






No interest in using the brake booster, I want to foam all the cylinders, or it's not worth it. I'll search around the coil packs and see what I can find.
 






get deepcreep. its just seafoam with an aerosol propellant. then u can just spray it in your intake, and it will get to all cylinders.
 






No where around here has the deep creep and I already bought the Seafoam. I just won't bother with it. The way I drive, it's likely there isn't much carbon in there anyways.
 






well, you can always put the seafoam into an old spray bottle and just spray it by hand into the intake. might take a while but at least u know its getting all cylinders.

also, i used seafoam and now AFTER i used it, my car stumbles a lot at idle(all vac lines are connected) could this be because only like 2 cylinders got cleaned and the others didnt?(used the cruise control vac line) its weird cuz my alt needle jumps all over and my car idles like ****e.
 






I considered using the straight Seafoam into the intake. I understand the risks of a hydrolock, and that's not anything I'm worried about. Could you have removed enough carbon to get an imbalance?
 






Dan Whitaker said:
This one should realy scare you. My dad was a mechanic at a TOYOTA dealer from 1971-mid 80's before fuel injetion was around. What they used to do was mix water and automotic transmission fluid and pour it down the carb while it was running and keep it reved between 2500-3000 rpm to keep the engine from stalling.




i've heard that you can make a good cleaner with Kerosene and ATF and then pour it in the Intake
 






Mbrooks420 said:
No interest in using the brake booster, I want to foam all the cylinders, or it's not worth it. I'll search around the coil packs and see what I can find.


i've never realized that i wasn't getting all the cylinders with the brake booster line
 






I solved the Check Engine light on problem. Just disconnected the battery for about a minute and then reconnected it (while trying to install my hella's) and it fixed it.
 






Ok, I Sea Foamed my 4.0L ohv tonight, I'll see over the next few days how much it helps. I used the funnel in the pcv hose method, it seemed pretty easy. I put 1/3rd can in the tb, 1/3rd in the crank case and 1/3rd in the gas tank. I'm due for an oil change so I'll take care of that in a few days (put my oil drain valve in then too :)). I'll let ya'll know the results. I'm thinkin' with 127k on the engine I may need to use more than a third of a can, but we'll see...
 






WOW used deep creep got it at napa for 4.99ish just took off the front and sprayed into right into the throttle plate while keeping it reved up...

WOW it stalled twice while i did it and it took like 2-3 minutes. It didnt pour smoke but some white smoke came out. Then i went out after letting it sit for 5 minutes and drove it like i stole it....

My load low RPM "slight" ping is gone...

My X runs great gets 20mpg (not bad for a 4x4 SOHC 97 with around 90k on it) but under load like going up small hills etc i would get pinging unless i reved the engine up... now it is back to operating just like its supposed to.

I may run another can through trying to get a deeper soak like over night my only question it that given this is an aresol can there is no more direct path to the cyclinders then through the throttle plate right?

PS if you guys havent done this DO it....

I also bought the seafoam to run through a tank of gas for the injectors etc...that is in there but will take some time to see what happens...

After reading some other threads i plan on getting my tire pressure up, switching to synthetics on the rest of my drive train (Auto, and rearend basically since i already run synthetic in the engine) and see where i can get to. If i can maintain city and highway 23 i would be happy.

Thanks Guys

Brian
 






Cut me some slack please, some of you are talking about spraying deep creep into the intake. Are you spraying the deep creep into the intake at the MAF or where exactly are you spraying the stuff??? If I spray this stuff at the throttle plate, will I pop MAF codes?? Thanks
 






thekubiaks said:
Cut me some slack please, some of you are talking about spraying deep creep into the intake. Are you spraying the deep creep into the intake at the MAF or where exactly are you spraying the stuff??? If I spray this stuff at the throttle plate, will I pop MAF codes?? Thanks
I didn't know you were supposed to spray the Deep Creep with it running ... I use it as WD40 :D You DON'T spray anything through the intake tube or MAF. Pull that off.
 






Piece Of Cake

I Just put a can of Sea Foam into my 97' Exploder in accordance with everyone's general consensus (1/3 in intake, 1/3 in oil. and 1/3 in fuel tank). I took three plastic cups, poured the can evenly in each of the three cups. I started the car, took off the brake booster hose and inserted a small funnel into the end. With the engine idling, I poured a little at a time into the funel to keep from killing the engine. I had to run to the accelerator pedal a few times to catch it. All in all, it took about 8 mintes to get 1/3 of a cup in the intake. I let the car sit for 10 minutes while I poured he other cups in the oil and fuel tank. 10 minutes later, car fired up (Check Engine Light), made plenty of smoke for a couple of minutes on my test drive and went away. The car idles much better now, it had one cylinder missing a little at idle, I thought it was a dirty injector but whatever it was, after my "shakedown" cruise, the injector is good as new?? Best $5 (NAPA) I've spent on this car. By the way, it has 141,000 miles on it with original everything (including transmission :eek: ) I think the classic clunking in the front end my be my control arm bushings finally giving out... Anyway.. :D :D :D

PS, after disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, the Check Engine Light reset ;)
 






thekubiaks:

Now you need to go back and do it the RIGHT WAY.

Use the vacuum line on the throttle body. That way you'll get all the cylinders.

Ryan
 






Spdrcer34 said:
thekubiaks:

Now you need to go back and do it the RIGHT WAY.

Use the vacuum line on the throttle body. That way you'll get all the cylinders.

Ryan

I asked a mechanic that was familiar with the procedure which one to use and he said the brake booster was fine..... Are you talking about the vacuum line on the PCV valve?? thanks
 



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OK, wait a minute?? I used Sea Foam on my '92 4.0, through the brake booster. Should I try it again through the front of the intake after the MAF?? I noticed a marked improvement in how it runs, but if I need to do it again I will. I also used it on my wifes 98 Wrangler 4.0. It smoked like a fiend for about 30 mins, and the CEL came on. Light went out after a day or so and it runs 100% better, like I added another 2 cylinders.
It's worth the $4.99 for the smoke alone.....
 






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