Matt's '92/'99 4X4 V8/4R70W swap!

Vehicle: 1992 forest green Ford Explorer 4X4

(<Frikin Sweet)

Drivetrain: '99 GT-40P 5.0(4.9)L 302----4R70W Automatic

Well i got my engine so i guess its time to start a project thread! The timeline on this is pretty loose. but as soon as possible cause the ole 4.0 is making wierd noises.

EDIT: DO NOT be STUPID like me! Don't get a 2wd drivetrain to go into a 4wd vehicle! The transmission output shaft length is different and will require a full trans teardown to retrofit. Luckily one of the other awesome members of the forum has the parts I need to convert. But you may not be so lucky. I doubt most junkyards would sell you Just the shaft and housing. Would rather you buy the whole transmission.

Plans:
Full teardown and rebuild
Keeping the gt-40's
New gaskets,pistons,cam,bearings,lifters, the works.
Maybe new crank
maybe strokin it
build for future forced induction
Transfer case: Hhhhhhmmmmmmm... maybe bw1354(dont wanna) or 4406 if i can fit it between the frame rails
plans will definitely evolve as we go along

here the pics

cant wait to get this thing runnin!

 

[jakebrake]

my 1356 fits.. kind of. It sits frame and low you have to manage the larger tab just inside of the lower frame lip also makes the whole engine sit a little sideways, but it fits.

 

[WickedWindsor]

Shows the notch in the frame. It's NOT weak. I've wheeled this truck hard on trails and rocks. There is 1/2" between the t-case and outside frame (plently room for drivetrain movement.

This is the tranny mount. The 4r70w ended up being 2" further forward (for me) than the original tranny. I used 1/4" plate on top of the original tranny crossmember exactly 7/8" over to the passenger side to clear the t-case and frame.

 

[WickedWindsor]

You could also grind off these tabs as they are not used for anything. For me, it would be possible to tuck the t-case inside the frame rail without having to clearance/notch the frame if I did this. I had just chosen to do the frame at the time instead. With it like it is however, I can re&re the t-case easily. If the frame isn't clearanced, it may be impossible to re&re the t-case without unbolting the rear tranny mount also.
If you do notch the frame, gring/cut the shape into a half moon or gentle radius. Any sharp points like /\ or^ will cause a stress point to possibly weaken the frame.

 

[jakebrake]

thats it.

 

[seth247]

Well nobody in town has a 4406 so I'm lookin at an np205. I here they're bulletproof.

 

[jakebrake]

but your speedo cable and vss just bolt right in to the 1356

 

[seth247]

Well I checked out a np205 and my speedo vss appears to go right in.

I may have to make a cutout on the trans tailhousing to accomodate the shift linkage. I will look at things tonight and make a descision.

 

[seth247]

Ok the 205 will bolt up. A notch is required in the trans tailhousing to accomodate one of the shift rails.

It has fixed yokes on both outputs(an improvement over the 1356's slip yoke.)

it doesn't have as deep a low range (1.98 I think) but I really don't care.

It is around six inches shorter than the 1356. So it will easily clear my frame.

It is gear driven and therefore very strong.

It is possible to Modify it for a twin stick setup. Allowing you to control each of the two shift rails (and therefore the front and rear axles) independently. Meaning you could, if you wanted too, even run only the front axle by itself. Which I think is very cool!

The only downside I can see is that it is cast iron, and effin heavy. It is meant to be partly supported by a bracket to the frame. Which I will try and imitate if I cannot find one.

Overall I am very impressed with this tcase and I think, unless any new info comes up before I get paid, that I will persue using this tcase for my setup.

 

[Jakee]

Are we there yet?

 

[seth247]

Got paid today. Will get the case tomorrow hopefully. Then I gotta clean it up and notch the flange then it goes on. I'll worry about a shifter later.

Then I just gotta slap in the intake and brackets and accessories and splice some wires. Oh and I need to get the abs module from a second gen at the junk for
my speed signal.

 

[techieman33]

Got paid today. Will get the case tomorrow hopefully. Then I gotta clean it up and notch the flange then it goes on. I'll worry about a shifter later.

Then I just gotta slap in the intake and brackets and accessories and splice some wires. Oh and I need to get the abs module from a second gen at the junk for
my speed signal.

I can't wait to see this thing fire up.

 

[seth247]

Picked up the 205 today.

Well, I didn't pick it up, I had some other people pick it up cause I hurt my back tryin to pick it up yesterday!

Freakin cast iron brick.

 

[CDW6212R]

I was going to tell you to get the BW4406, but it would require much more wiring, plus it's about as big as the others.

 

[seth247]

no where i called had a 4406 so I gave up. It would have been nice.

 

[CDW6212R]

It saves you more wiring work, and you have a lot there already.

 

[seth247]

Holy crap.

The 4r70w has a full refill(including converter) capacity of 13.9 quarts!

I just bought four gallons of ATF!

 

[mechanix]

Holy crap.

The 4r70w has a full refill(including converter) capacity of 13.9 quarts!

I just bought four gallons of ATF!

That uses Mircon V at least my 4R75W does. Might want to check into that to be sure so you don't smoke a brand new trans.

Eric

 

[WickedWindsor]

Yup, Mercon V. I used synthetic though in mine.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, 12 quarts for it without a cooler and shallow pan. My torque converter will probably only hold three quarts though.

Try adding a cooler, two external filters, and a deep pan. That's a lot, and I bought Amsoil for about $8 each.

 

[mechanix]

Yup, Mercon V. I used synthetic though in mine.

I was thinking Mercon V WAS synthetic?