SOHC V6 Timing Chain Saga

[CDW6212R]

See, I never had any of those problems, I had a good mechanic friend help once or twice, but I usually nit pick and go slow with any new task. I think more people now are too impatient and rush through things. I miss things also, which is what makes me slower and more methodical. I hate doing things more than once. You are doing great, you'll be on the road again very soon. Night,

 

[2000StreetRod]

torquing the bolts

After getting all eight transmission/engine bolts hand tightened I attempted to torque them to 38 ft-lbs. I decided to start with the worst ones at the top. The photo below shows what I ended up using to torque the driver side top bolt.

The green arrow identifies a wobble joint at the end of an extension. When working from under the vehicle the wobble is essential due to the upper part of the transmission housing. The combination of extensions did not work with the top bolt on the passenger side. I believe another wobble extension is required at the location identified with the blue arrow. I will try that tomorrow.

 

[CDW6212R]

Those bolts only call for 38lbs.ft? Aren't they 3/8" or larger? Most bell housing bolts take more torque than that.

 

[Vargas]

Those bolts only call for 38lbs.ft? Aren't they 3/8" or larger? Most bell housing bolts take more torque than that.

My book says 30 to 41, for AT to engine (V6) for '96-. Up through '95, range given is 28 to 38.

 

[cjmedina]

 

[ranger7ltr]

Bellhousing bolts and their torque...

Damn that's a long setup of extensions...I guess I was lucky in that I was only installing the shortblock and I could get the top bolts from the top...I actually installed the top and the next set of bolts from the top of the truck...

The second set I installed from underneath the truck right before I installed the oil pump and oil pump driveshaft and oil pan...

And I too torqued mine to 35 ft-lbs...Torque specs for these bolts was 30-40 ft-lbs...They are holding just fine in the first 300 miles I put on the truck...

 

[cjmedina]

Same set up I used to remove the 4 TC nuts.


Cliff

 

[cjmedina]

Same set up I used to remove the 4 TC nuts.


Cliff

 

[2000StreetRod]

Aluminum block cradle

Those bolts only call for 38lbs.ft? Aren't they 3/8" or larger? Most bell housing bolts take more torque than that.

I thought it might be due to the aluminum block cradle and Ford didn't bother to specify a different setting for the cast iron block. But the number is the same for the OHV V6 that has no aluminum cradle. The low number may be due to the lack of access prevents further tightening. As it is I may have to pull the engine and transmission as a unit when I perform my rebuild because I may not be able to loosen the bolts that hold them together.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes that and the bolts must be on the smaller side. Just add a drop of loctite to each bolt.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Torque converter play

This morning I purchased the 3/8 inch set of wobble extensions shown in the photo below from AutoZone.

Using combinations of wobble and normal extensions I was able to torque all of the transmission/engine bolts to 38 ft-lbs. When I perform my rebuild I will remove at least one of the downpipes with catalytic converter. The pipes made it extremely difficult to torque the passenger side bolts.

Don, I now understand what you meant about the torque converter movement. As I tightened the first nut holding the flexplate to the torque converter I could see the converter easily move forward significantly.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ah, more tools. I love tools but I need to make more storage space for what I have. It's not good to know you have a tool but cannot find it quickly.

 

[RNGRDVE]

After getting all eight transmission/engine bolts hand tightened I attempted to torque them to 38 ft-lbs. I decided to start with the worst ones at the top. The photo below shows what I ended up using to torque the driver side top bolt.
View attachment 59284
The green arrow identifies a wobble joint at the end of an extension. When working from under the vehicle the wobble is essential due to the upper part of the transmission housing. The combination of extensions did not work with the top bolt on the passenger side. I believe another wobble extension is required at the location identified with the blue arrow. I will try that tomorrow.

You should probably take your torque wrench up about 5lbs using that many extensions will result in a loss of torque.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Motor mounts

With normal tools and the exhaust manifolds in place it is almost impossible to torque the nuts on the motor mount thru bolts to specification. The photo below shows the only one I was able to use the torque wrench on using a wobble extension to clear the manifold.

For the rest of the nuts I had to use my breaker bar and estimate the amount of torque as shown below.

For my future engine rebuild I may remove the exhaust manifolds and EGR tube prior to removing the engine since I can lift the engine out with chains bolted to the heads.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Torque & extensions

You should probably take your torque wrench up about 5lbs using that many extensions will result in a loss of torque.

While using more extensions results in an increase in torsional deflection (twisting) it does not decrease the force applied to the bolt. As long as the axis of the extensions are aligned with that of the bolt the torque reading will be accurate. However, torsional deflection increases the difficulty of accurately tightening torque-to-yield bolts. The socket rotation must be monitored instead of the handle rotation.

 

[CDW6212R]

Actually the torsional forces do absorb some energy with longer extensions. But that's a good reason to do them with a simple ratchet or wrench.

 

[BestUsernameEver]

When I installed my 00M12 kit I removed the engine coolant temperature sensor and the engine temperature sender from the thermostat housing to gain more room to remove and install the hydraulic tensioner. I was luckier than some other members who had the brass fitting spin in the plastic housing. When I installed the sensors I used thread sealant to prevent leakage. I anticipate that the thread sealant will require additional force to remove the sensors in the future.

Since I had the thermostat housing out while replacing the timing chain components I decided to try reinforcing the housing. First I cleaned the exposed portion of the brass fitting and the plastic surrounding it as shown in the two photos below with a small wire brush and then cloth.
View attachment 59152
View attachment 59153

Next I mixed some two part epoxy and very carefully applied it to the intersection of the brass fitting and the plastic housing as identifed with the arrows in the photo below.
View attachment 59154
I made sure not to get any epoxy on the sensor threads. Hopefully, I won't know if the reinforcement worked until my odometer has accumulated another 75,000 miles and I replace the front hydraulic tensioner again.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/1997-TO-2001-FORD-EXPLORER-THERMOSTAT-HOUSING-RH144A_W0QQitemZ250631819837QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3a5ad2123d

best deal ever! comes with sensors, thermostat AND the new housing with clipon sensors. original parts! shipped and receivied in less than week. no more loose brass thingies

 

[cjmedina]

http://cgi.ebay.ca/1997-TO-2001-FORD-EXPLORER-THERMOSTAT-HOUSING-RH144A_W0QQitemZ250631819837QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3a5ad2123d

best deal ever! comes with sensors, thermostat AND the new housing with clipon sensors. original parts! shipped and receivied in less than week. no more loose brass thingies

TOO MUCH MONEY!

You can update to the newer 2002 and up housing complete for about $100.
I have the parts list if anybody is interested.

Did you see this one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

[CDW6212R]

Don't buy the old housing design, the sensors will always be prone to leaking if you loosen them.

 

[cjmedina]

That housing for $9.99 looks to be in good shape!

When I replaced my housing Ford wanted $312 for a replacement!