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Someone build something already !!!

Any advise on my welds from the looks (or should I post my skills in the crappy fab thread)?

I would say that it's a little "wide". Maybe try not to weave as much and make sure to watch where the arc is and keep a constant speed. Pretty good for some first welds though. Remember the goal is fusion, so the root of the weld is more important than the look, even though everyone likes a "pretty" weld.
 



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They way the mounts got set it takes a little bit of work to slide them in. It was never an issue with the old setup. Doubtful I will be adjusting them much, probably more convenient to just take them off if I am shaving weight for a balls out prerun day.
 






building a 2002 v8 turbo, putting a dss motor in it this weekend. and start the turbo install next week. m all pumped up hope she runs good I want to see at least 450 to the tires. for now untill I put a better trans in it.
 






I would say that it's a little "wide". Maybe try not to weave as much and make sure to watch where the arc is and keep a constant speed. Pretty good for some first welds though. Remember the goal is fusion, so the root of the weld is more important than the look, even though everyone likes a "pretty" weld.
I'm going to have to disagree - the width looks fine (comparing it to the drilled hole). And watch the puddle behind the arc. The puddle will tell you if you're moving too fast -- and also tell you if the material is still cold (at the beginning of the run when the welds dont yet 'wet' into the material as easily).

EDIT -- anyone seen DB1? He hasnt been on in a month!
 






Here's my 2cents on Dannyboy's welds:

1) The right end looks bad - not enough weld.
2) You did not clean off the mill scale - that will cause problems.
3) It looks cold - I don't see any signs of heat in the surrounding metal..
 






Here's my 2cents on Dannyboy's welds:

1) The right end looks bad - not enough weld.
2) You did not clean off the mill scale - that will cause problems.
3) It looks cold - I don't see any signs of heat in the surrounding metal..



Thanks guys, it's good to get tips from those who have done it a bunch. It was difficult to follow the line as I wasn't working in a well lit area. I know you are looking through a mask but when I put additional light on it it was easier to see what I was doing. This turned out much better than the original scrap pieces I was welding. Running CO2 makes the welds so much cleaner than the original roll of flux core. Tom, you are correct, I did not clean off the material, I did wire brush the frame before welding to that though.

The right side of that one did turn out bad, I was going to chop the photo, but I need to get honest feedback and show it all.

As for visual, I "saw the puddle" and pushed that down the path (at least that was a tip I was given).

I'm assuming this will get better with time, but not developing bad habits is a good thing.

As for heat, I'm using a Miller 180 (a 220 unit) and had it turned up to I think D on an A through E settings. I also had the wire feed rather slow.

I appreciate the feedback.
 






As for heat, I'm using a Miller 180 (a 220 unit) and had it turned up to I think D on an A through E settings. I also had the wire feed rather slow.
I also have the Millermatic 180 (mine doesnt have an A-E). Follow the power/feed guide printed on the inside of the cover (that covers the roll) - those numbers are pretty much dead on. You can also go to the Miller website, print out the page with all the settings for different material thickness, and stick a few copies around the garage (or the Explorer).

I should also mention that I find it easier to weld when the settings are set for one thickness level below when using 0.30 or 0.35 wire (if welding 1/8", I set it for 14 gauge) - this is not the case however for .024/.025 wire. Anyways, setting for one thickness lower gives you time to deal with the puddle and make changes if necessary.

Looking back at your photo, it looks like you've got that brown powder coming up - thats some form of an oxide. Try to get closer to your weld (minimize "stick out"), change your position, change the welder setting (feed so you minimize heat and CO2 breakdown), or increase the shielding gas flow rate a little (this will cool down the weld faster and also minimize CO2 break down).

Just keep practicing, it'll become almost 2nd nature sooner or later. I first got my Miller at the start of my project and I wish I could go back and redo some of my welds now that I'm finally getting to know the welder a little better.

EDIT -- and for anyone wearing glasses, get some contacts! They make a world of a difference when welding. That and replace the front protective lense of your helmet every now and then (its like $4 maybe).

EDIT #2 -- I found my Excel spreadsheet with the settings. If you have the MM-180, then this should work: http://izwack.com/dump/weld_speeds.xls. There are multiple copies on the same page cauz I cut them into strips and stuck them around the garage and the Explorer.
 






Oh, I also sometimes cheat.. Yea, I admit it. I'll do a two passes - first pass is to get a good root down, and the second pass is to hide the ****ty job I did on the first pass.

Always get a light, and shine it on the area your welding. It makes a world of difference!
 






And watch the puddle behind the arc. The puddle will tell you if you're moving too fast -- and also tell you if the material is still cold (at the beginning of the run when the welds dont yet 'wet' into the material as easily).

Although that is good advise, if all you watch is the puddle, it is easy to let the puddle roll ahead of the arc and fuse before the root of the material is melted leaving a good looking weld with little to no fusion. This is bad especially where there is a lot of vibration because you're pretty much leaving a preformed crack behind the weld. Tdavis "cheating" method is actually pretty good advice. Try an AWS bend test and see how your welds far. I don't know anyone, even experienced welders who have passed it first try.
 


















All is well. He has been working with me the last 10 days or so. Will be back working with me Friday and Saturday then we are going wheeling on Sunday.
Ah ok good to hear!

So jealous you guys can go hit the trails whenever - oh so very jealous! :)
 






Were finally building a shop.... :)



Does that count?
 


















I hope a d44 will get forward with new coil buckets, better ends on my ra's, and a new panhard bar set up
 






hey Burns, think you could get out to Turkey Bay on the 8th, 9th, or 10th?

like to meet ya and see your rig

l8r, John:cool:
 












EDIT -- anyone seen DB1? He hasnt been on in a month!

Thanks for your concern, I didn't know you cared so much:p:
I'd also like to thank my spokesperson Matt for the update on my daily affairs, next briefing will be in a week or so:mattmoon:

All kidding aside, no fabbing going on with the Ranger lately but I did toss in the manual T-case last week...nothing thrilling. I may tackle the roll cage soon so i'll post up when that happens. Thanks to Matt i've been working the past couple of weeks and have some work lined up next week so I can survive a little bit longer:thumbsup:
 



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Thanks for your concern, I didn't know you cared so much:p:
Ey, we're all like a family here - Mi casa, es su casa.. mi Explorer, es su Explorer.
joecool.gif
All kidding aside, no fabbing going on with the Ranger lately but I did toss in the manual T-case last week..
Ah good good, so no more of this.

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