Something w/ rabbits. 72.5 pages of BS

[JMan689]

Okay you clowns .. some useful stuff:

Chevy S-10 extended cab two piece driveshaft plans:

This driveshaft comes with 1330 u-joints in a Saginaw configuration, ends will be converted to 1310 (compatibility with the transfer case's front output yoke). 1330 double cardan has a max of just over 20 degrees -- not enough. This one measures to a max of 27.6-4.3 ... about 23 degrees.

Triangular calculations using the 14" shock says that at full droop, the driveshaft angle should be around this 23 degrees figure. So the goal is to increase this angle by grinding down some of the double cardan parts (primarily the weld yoke on the tube side). The goal is to get it around 27 degrees.

The rear will also be a double cardan but unfortunately, the angle in the rear is greater than the front. So I might have to switch to 1410 which maxes out at a healthy 37 degrees.

I think you need to come out here and do all the calculations for my SAS

 

[Stic-o]

your taking all the fun out of it..just build it, wheel it, and if it breaks...fix it


Why am I haveing Daja Vu?

 

[IZwack]

I think you need to come out here and do all the calculations for my SAS

You mean come out to IL? My home state?

your taking all the fun out of it..just build it, wheel it, and if it breaks...fix it

Sadly, I'm not realy one to carry spares. Like when my brother and I took the Zuk out to T-haven, we didn't have any spare axles shafts or anything (only "spare" was the spare tire).

But right now, the weakest component in the drivetrain is the transfer case and I swapped over the Dana 60's U-joint to a 1310 series so that the U-joint shatters before the transfer case grenades (prefer to replace a U-joint or a driveshaft than swap a transfer case -- assuming I start carying spares ). Well actually it might be the doubler but we'll see. If I have any problems with the doubler and 1354 transfer case, then I dunno, maybe an Atlas .. or just say F it and run and transverse 1.6L Civic engine and ignore transfer cases all together .. okay I kid, I kid.

 

[JMan689]

You mean come out to IL? My home state?

Yes.

Still up and no chat? So sad.

 

[IZwack]

Still up and no chat? So sad.

I'm going to sleep so sorry, no can do on that chatty chat chat -- tomorrow is finishing up removing the van's decals and then its back to school projects.

 

[james t]

With all the steep driveline angles... are you building this thing really tall ride height or really short wheelbase or both?

 

[IZwack]

They're not that steep -- the front is at like 4 degrees ride height. The back is steeper because the engine moved back a foot and the doubler kicked the transfer case even further back. So the rear driveshaft is now shorter than the front. The front is getting 14" shocks and 16" inchers for the back -- so worst case scenario, the front is going to droop away maybe a foot at most and the back maybe 13 inches.

In the image below, the driveshaft will be almost parallel with the upper link:

 

[james t]

I remembered about the doubler, but i forgot about the engine being pushed back. All makes sense now.

 

[techieman33]

screw rabbits, we need dragons

 

[DB_1]

I've actually got some tech questions for you, is your trac-bar (front) going to be flat or close to it and whats the roll center going to be like?

 

[IZwack]

I've actually got some tech questions for you, is your trac-bar (front) going to be flat or close to it and whats the roll center going to be like?

I was going to make the panhard horizontal but since the vehicle is biased for mostly all droop (no desert running), the panhard should be angled up a bit on the axle end (and down on the chassis end). As for the roll center, the goal is around the water pump -- assuming the center of the unsprung weight is at about the top of the transmision bellhousing. Roll axis will either be horizontal or slightly higher on the back end so the vehicle slightly noses forward when its climbing up and off camber as opposed to leaning backwards (from the driver's perspective). So the rear roll axis will be slightly higher than the front.

 

[DB_1]

Coolness, gonna make extra holes on the frame side to give you options as far as raising or lowering the trac-bar?

 

[IZwack]

Coolness, gonna make extra holes on the frame side to give you options as far as raising or lowering the trac-bar?

Thats a good idea, i"ll look into it -- thanks!

 

[DB_1]

No prob...this thread may now return to wabbits:

 

[little x]

screw rabbits, we need dragons

Dragons suck. Unless you need to BBQ a bunch of rabbits in a hurry.


IZ: I remember reading this thread when it first started. I just now come back and read through it, expecting the build to have ended on page 20 or something, with 15 pages of comments and after-build discussion. But your still working on the thing! It will be amazing when done. Keep up the craftsman ship. And remember, just because your reproducing other setups (as you put it) doesn't mean that everyone could do that. You weld mighty fine sir, and take the time to do things right.

 

[cybergasm]

no prob...this thread may now return to wabbits:

:d

 

[IZwack]

Wasnt satisfied with the previous upper link mount on the axle so redid it:

Rear winch will be around here:

 

[BKennedy]

Well.............................???
How goes the......

 

[IZwack]

Aaha I was scared you'd post in this thread asking for updates. But neh I haven't worked on it in the past few weeks. The Holidays, family, and too much snowboarding ate up all the time.

 

[Stic-o]

I was scared that someone posted another stupid bunnie