supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport

[blueka]

Throttle and cruise control cables have to be from the 5.0.
I used a 4.0 shifter cable, and it works fine.

I'm missing the bits to make the A/C work, so I'll have to locate those parts

Looking good man!


Si

 

[gmanpaint]

Great job with the comparison pics. This will help others down the road who want to accomplish this same swap.

Looking forward to the finished project and seeing it on the road.

 

[GRNMACHINE]

Awesome!!

 

[vroomzoomboom]

learned a few more things today

they are the same, so no need to change the cross members

and just like simon said, the cruise control cables are not only longer, but the ends are different to. didnt realize that one.

so i was fighting with the rad and condenser yesterday, and was not having any fun doing it either. i i had called simon to ask if he had the same problem. well not thinking his body lift gave him his own set of problems, as we talked about it, he had mentioned, and i was also thinking the rads for both 4L and 5L are the same (width height, length, and tube placement). what i wasnt sure about (and i cant remember if he had said or not) was if the condenser was different or not. seeing i screwed evils rad up (drank **** broke, and i had to drill threw the drain to empty the rad, thus also making a pin hole in the perfectly good rad, DUHO!) i used the 5L rad, and the 4L condenser. the difference is, on a 4L set up (or at least evils) the condenser is bolted to the rad support, on a 5L it is clamped on to the rad. low and behold, it went in with no problems (both are 2 core mind you, take that as a note). also, the upper part of the air filter box is the same for both 4L and 5L are the same (panel filter, not sure about a cone style filter). i was happy cause i can still use my K&N.
then the next headache. when i went to connect the bulk connector to the motor (the one that clips on top of the valve cover for a 4L) it was about 2 inches to short. number umpteenth question for both simon, and russ. russ told me when they did the rock trac it was tight but with the body lift, it may have helped a bit. simon said he cut back some of the tape, stretched it, retaped it, and all was well (pickle also has a body lift). evil.......well, that was fun.

what you are looking at is the the harness that goes under the power distribution box. there is a bolt that hold it into place (if you look to the right you can see the hole). i took the bracket off for the box, unbolted the harness from the fender apron, as well as there is a push clip under that battery box that i unclipped. pull the harness towards the fire wall, then outward towards the motor. you can still bolt the bracket for the power distribution box back in, but the harness will be resting right beside it. that gave me enough slack to bolt the bulk connector together. i may one day make a jumper harness, but that will be later.....maybe.

dont really like it, but it will have to do for now. it was this, or use the complete v8 under hood harness, but i really didnt want to unclip everything. that and i have added some wiring of my own under the hood, and did such a good job at it (or in my opinion) that i cant tell whats what!

also another thing i learned today.

see anything wrong with this picture? i didnt either for the last 4 months until i tried putting the cables on......its on the wrong way .
took me a hour to figure that one out.......

so today's progress you ask (i knew you would ask)....

with the exception of the battery clamps, repin the one connector, and solder two other wires together, MOTOR IS TOGETHER!!!!!! *happy dance, happy dance!* hopefully i can get by buddy to change the rear main seal for me (he hasnt been able to give me a hand with anything yet, but hey its new years so i dont expect to much from him). i dont trust myself to do that, and really dont want to do it and find out when its too late that i scaruuuuude it up either. if that gets done, then the trans goes in, and on to fitting the 4406.

side note. all that money for them, bob dose such a nice job making them.....an you can hardly see them....the headers that is

who me stressed???? naaaaaaaaaaaaaaaw

 

[gmanpaint]

Rear main seal ain't that hard if you have the seal installer.

Pulling the old one out on the other hand is kinda intimidating if you never used the sheet metal screw method before.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

yea, the the seal installer will prob consist of a 2x4 and a hammer. that and he had said to try and drill two holes, and put self tapping screws in, and grab it with some vise grips. i would rather him take it out, and put it back in. if it leaks, i will not be amused.

 

[gmanpaint]

http://www.toolsource.com/advanced_search_result.php?search=1&query=Ford+rear+main+seal+installer

There are 2 types of rear main seals, one you lube and one you install dry. The more expensive seal is a dry install, and you must use the seal installer. You might have better luck with the cheaper seal with grease on it for installing it with out the tool.

But...is it really worth not using the good seal, and the install tool?

I used a Snap on installer borrowed from a retired mechanic. His was a bit nicer than that one above. It used the center threading on the crankshaft to draw the seal in evenly. I couldn't find it on the web, and that one kept coming up.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

i manned up, and did it myself. went in easy. just got it in to a point where it would stay, then took a round punch with the end the size of a quarter, and tapped it very lightly all the way around. buddy came out to help me lift the trans out of the truck, and onto the stand. he looked at it, and said it looked fine. time will tell.....and hope i did it right or i will not be happy!

a few more pics for everyone.

thats the old seal by the way. forgot to take one with the new seal....for what it matters...

so tonight i wanted to get the trans in

and low and behold i got it in!

trans jacks, and hoists are so nice to have! its bolted in now, bell housing, and converter are locked down. wire harness on.
i also wanted to add something. i was reading somewhere that you had to pull the plate out of the floor to get at the top bell housing bolts. that is not entirely true. if you get the trans up there, and angle it, it is very possible to get all the bolts with extensions.

thats all for today. the filler tub was being a PITA. having a hell of a time lining the bracket up to the heads so i can get the bolt back in. when thats done, can put the lines back on (all of a 2 min job at that). right now its sitting on the cross member so i know everything lines up. if i can get all that done tomorrow, it will be on the the 4406!
btw, can anyone tell me if i MUST use the 5L fuel pump, or can i get away with using the 4L one?

 

[blueka]

YOU MUST USE THE 5.0 FUEL PUMP!!!


Si

 

[vroomzoomboom]

thanks again simon! your a day saver! lol

 

[blueka]

no worries man, get it done already!! haha


Si

 

[GRNMACHINE]

Coming along great!

 

[Joe Dirt]

Are you done yet?

 

[vroomzoomboom]

Ha joe! Your not the first person to ask that. I have a few buddys here asking me the same thing every day. I want to get it done soon as well. I just want to hear what it sounds like with the headers......open and then threw the flowmaster!

 

[Spas]

:

Hey buuuuuuddy, could you get some pictures from directly below Evil, namely where the oil pan is? I'm getting worried about the kickouts on the side of Blackjack's oil pan after looking at how close the driver side header comes to the factory pan And could you please get some shots of the space between the power steering rack and bottom of the oil pan? Preeease? I bugged Jon about it already but I'm blonde and I like pretty pictures

 

[vroomzoomboom]

done for ya linds. i put them in blackjacks thread. need more, let me know.

as for todays progress? well some of you that are on facebook already know. but for those who are not (and for those who send friend requests, PLEASE tell me what your screen name is. i dont know who you are!!!).

NANER NANER NAAAAANER!!!!!

big hole


big hole with......wait for it......
















A FORTY FREAKING FOUR OH SIX! HA!!!!!

like everyone else, i will have to bend the bracket however, but what i think i will do is, cut it, get a chunk of 1/4 inch steel from work, make it into a "C" shape, weld it in place, and then cut the remaining overhang off the bracket.

......BUT i do have a few concerns. i havent had a chance to look at the 4406 threads again, but this is touching the plastic on the gas tank.

i called my buddy out from this house (yes, this is his garage at home) to get a second opinion on it, then i noticed this.

to me, this doesn't look straight. but depending on where you look at it, its ok. i know for a fact evils never been in a major accident (a deer ran into it years back, but it was just sheet metal damage), and nothing was bent on the donor truck, even though it was a rollover. the motor dropped onto the mounts no problems, the trans lines up on the cross member where it should. this has me stumped. i dont know if all explorers have a slight angle on there drive shafts or not. i tried to measure it, but couldn't really find a symmetrical (sp?)spot.

 

[gmanpaint]

The 8.8 is off set to the pass side is all.

Thats one tight ass fit! Wow! The only concern I see is it touching the tank. Solid mounts might not let it flex like rubber mounts will.

Either way, congrats on getting it in there.

 

[techieman33]

To get you motivated

 

[Kris Guilbeaux]

I know Simon posted that you have to use a 5.0 fuel pump but when we did the sport trac swap we kept v6 pump. The reason I did this was cause I could not find different part # for a v6 vs a v8. The sport trac is running just like it should with the v6 pump.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

To get you motivated
_lknl1vc7rw

eric, NOT........FAIR......!

I know Simon posted that you have to use a 5.0 fuel pump but when we did the sport trac swap we kept v6 pump. The reason I did this was cause I could not find different part # for a v6 vs a v8. The sport trac is running just like it should with the v6 pump.

funny you say this kris. i made a call to jon tonight, and that was one of the things we were talking about. we both couldnt figure out if there was a difference or not. he did bring up if there was a different part number for them. i had said yes, i looked at rock auto and there are two different numbers for a two door vs four door pump, but a four door vs. a four door when i look now are the same. the other difference in both simons, and the rock trac are they are return-less, where evils fuel system is a return. i did end up dropping the tank tonight however. its out, i might as well put the pump in for what its worth.

btw, if anyone ever has to pull the tank, and if it dose make you life easeir, here are some pics of that.

nice mess.

your rear strap is here. once you get the bolts out, or if you can raise the tank up high enough, you might be able to unhook it.

two bolts here, roughly about a foot in front of the rear yoke.

on one the frame just behind the front spring shackle. there is also the front bracket with two nuts at the top and bottom of the frame, two on the tank, and two on the tank skid plate.

and this was also the reason why i called jon.



to me this did not look like it was going to work. the yoke, and drive shaft were very close to the tank. i did look over the 4406 swap thread http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=166726 last night. i still was not sure because i didnt know if four door tanks sat back further then a two door tank. from what jon told me, i was in the same place as every four door swap is. looks like a little trimming is in the near future.





thanks again jon! always nice to talk with you. you to have also been very helpful! as for tomorrows stuff? i will try and get the tank back up, and dimple it a little as well. after that, not sure. my back is starting to bug me again so i dont know how far i will get. but i do know this, i am getting closer to turning the key now!